My soldering was equally crappy until I started using Flux. I highly recommend it. Dip either end of the connection in flux and then solder. It evaporates, drawing the solder in and creating a really neat and solid connection.
I watched like a dozen RU-vid tutorials on how to solder and while they would use flux they never really explained what it did or how important it was. Two best tips I can give when learning to solder: apply flux generously and clean your soldering tip often
@@vaunkillion262 that is true when i'm doing my work (learning to be electronics technician )and when i'm having trouble replacing IC`s or such i always just get told to use more flux haha
So many different applications for these little balls of light!!! Costumes and weapons for things I cant even remember!!! You guys could make some of the coolest costume additions for little kids Costumes!!!!
I always remember which side of the led is positive with + is more and - is less so the positive leg is longer. I also recommend getting a silicone mat, possibly with trays, for soldering. It protects your work surface in case any rogue solder gets anywhere and you can set your parts on it and keep them in one place without losing them.
Can I just say, I absolutely love your tutorials. Most other tutorials I’ve seen are overly formal and lack a sense of connectivity. But your sense of humour and personality make your videos a lot more enjoyable and easy to approach. Not to mention that you create tutorials for people of all skill levels. I’ve been looking to get into making costumes for a while now, and this channel has helped me a lot with where I should start and get me started. Cheers!
A comment to 17:27 : This method will reduce the brightness of the LED if you use the 3V battery. That schematic will work with the 9V battery as long as the LEDs are ~3V. To make the 3V battery version work optimally you could simply parallel connect the LEDs insted (they are serial connected in the example). Also if you dont want to have to worry about changing/charging your batteries that often, could you parallel connect batteries together as well. Parallel connecting batteries will do nothing to the amount of voltage and such you will get on the circuit, it will just make it last longer (like the whole con day if you do your math). You can also get battery holders that already do that for you. Another thing is that it's more commonly/universal to add a switch/break on the red wire aka after the + part on the battery. But doing so on the black wire works fine too. Also electronics are usually made to handle a roughly 5-10% +/- or something in voltage (may say so in the specifications of the LEDs or such), because it's not always that easy to get exactly the voltage you desire. Cable lengts/thickness can throw that off so since the cable has resistance as well. Anyway, Buy Svetlana (and Benni's) books! Keep up the good work!
Don't connect batteries in parallel. The terminal voltages vary potentially resulting in high circulating currents. At best this will shorten battery life and at worst could result in excessive heating.
Not true - they would not work at all, the LED needs a volt drop across it to work. That volt drop is the same for all levels of brightness it is the current that determines the brightness. So three blue LEDs in series need a battery of at least 9V and if more than 9V you will likely need a resistor to drop the extra voltage. As you point out when connecting a number of LEDs it is much better to connect them in parallel - in this way you could have three blue LEDs running off a 3V button cell - in fact she did that when she was holding them on the battery in the beginning. Another advantage of parallel over series is that if one LED were to fail only that one goes out - in a series circuit all would go out - think old fashioned Christmas Tree lights. Although you can get away without a resistor with suitable choice of better it is better to use them. Two reasons - you have control over the brightness because the resistor sets the current through the LED and you can drive different coloured LEDs off the same battery easily. For example, at the beginning she had two blue (3V) LEDs attached in parallel to a battery - they were working, but when she added the red (2V) LED it lit but the two blue LEDs went out. The reason for this is that the RED LED was forcing the circuit to be 2V, the residual 1V was being dropped across the battery's internal resistance (which isn't a good idea). Because the circuit was clamped at 2V there was not enough voltage to turn the blue LEDs on. But had she included a resistor on the red LED then all three LEDs would have lit.
Thank you so much, I just needed a tutorial to understand how LED works I was totally clueless before but I absolutely wanted to insert LED in my next cosplay
Tip: You don't have to use the EXACT value from the resistor calculator -- using the next highest from a set of standard resistor values will work just fine. I always recommend these values to my friends just getting started in electronics (and I have two boxes designed for fishing lures that hold these values for me): 100, 220, 330, 470, 680, 1K, 2.2K, 3.3K, 4.7K, 10K Resistors are cheap insurance for your LED projects! Have fun -- like Svetlana does -- and your projects will be a hit! Buy Svetlana's books! :)
Most people don't realise that even in the same rating, they vary as much as 10% higher or lower (Silver band). Best you can do is 5% with the gold band.
You may get lucky and be able to get away without a current limiting resistor, but if you don't want to rely on luck, use one. Also, don't try to connect LEDs in parallel and try to run it off a single resistor. If you try, you'll probably find one LED will light and the other wont.
@@brankin421 Tinning is the act of melting solder onto something, so 'pre-tinning' means melting some onto both components you are trying to join so you only need to bring them together and apply heat. Can be hit or miss.
Thank you Svetlana for this amazing video, again! :) Food for thought - would it be feasible to make a beginners/medium/advanced LED "set" - with wires, holders, LED-s, + some basic how-to instructions etc.etc? I, for one, would gladly buy such a set from you guys. Thank you! And stay healthy!
It depends on the power source. To be precise, all LEDs actually care about current, not voltage. With 3v low current source, like that coin barrery, they'd probably be fine. But with more beefy power source - yes, you need to tune curent with a resistor, or even use active curent driver.
CREATE A SMART LAMP THAT CAN MOVE TO ANY DEGREE POSSIBLE AND CAN BE CONTROLLED BY YOUR PHONE ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bUFwJuKF4eI.html
Your videos are a MASSIVE inspiration!! And - not for Cosplay, but for Halloween decorations!!! Amazing ideas, materials, designs, creativity - THANK YOU SO MUCH for sharing!!!!! Surprisingly few people use foam and foam clay in the world of Halloween decor, but I think you could create the most stunning, movie-set quality stuff (think Gargoyles with light and smoke, Gothic doorways with skulls, lights, etc - and a million other wonderful things!). Halloween is getting bigger in some parts of Europe, and hey - costumes & Halloween are best pals :-) Remember Halloween is not just "American commercial nonsense" - the roots of Halloween are in Samhain, which was the festval of dead for ancient European Celtic people. And for example in Finland we have "Kekri" - similar day of the dead in October, with costumers and fires to drive away bad evil spirits...So lets make Halloween into "Euroween" and OWN IT. :-) Bless!!!
Let's start by saying we love your channel and I've been subscribed for a little while now, hoping that you have an actual business that we participate with some types of projects until we learn to do it for ourselves, Is it any way you have a business card or a way to contact you if you have a business that we can send a project in and maybe you can tell us how to design it, If so you're going to be amazed on some of the ideas we come up with. Thanks for doing such a good channel
I always love your content, but have to correct you on not using resistors in combination with LEDs. A led a basically a short circuit and will draw as much current as can be provided by the battery. In your examples you rely on the voltage dropping and the max current the battery can source. Please always use a resistor calculator for any led you are using and install a resistor. Most LEDs are most happy between 10 an 20 mA. The voltage is determined by the color of the led.
In theory yes, you need a resistor. However I install my standard LEDs now for 17 years and never ever needed one, no matter the color. None of my LEDs ever were damaged and I never had any issues with this kind of setup. So to keep things extra simple and make LEDs less intimidating, I personally don’t recommend using a resistor if you use the right battery. :)
@@KamuiCosplay if you would measure the current from your battery you might find that with the correct resistor you would actually reduce/limit the current and therefore extend the battery life quite a lot! I've been using LEDs in all kind of electronic projects and PCB designs for over 40 years, and learned from a very young age to use resisors.
@@KamuiCosplay Without a resistor your circuit will be unreliable, the draw on the battery will be inconsistent and you could likely shorten the life of both the LED and battery.
@@patchtechuk In general, no. I would select a resistor with the appropriate power rating. If the power rating is high enough, the resistors tend not to get to hot, especially with the small LED's that only draw around 10~20mA. The formula's used for LED resistor values are; V = I x R (Voltage equals Current times Resistance) R = V / I (Resistance equals Voltage divided by current) I = V / R (Current equals Voltage divided by Resistance) P = I^2 x R (Power equals Current-squared times resistance) Keep in mind that the voltage used in these formulas is the voltage drop over the resistor, and not the battery voltage. If you have a red LED that has a forward voltage of 2V (specified by the manufacturer) and an optimum current of 20mA, and you have a 3.7V battery; Voltage difference between battery and led => 3.7 - 2 = 1.7V Resistor value required R => 1.7 / 0.020 = 85 Ohm Power dissipated by the resistor, 0.02 * 0.02 * 85 = 0.034 W (34mW). Most common resistors are rated for 1/8W (125mW) This will not heat up the resistor much and can be safely build into a prop. When using high powered LEDs (tri-cree) as used in many lightsabers for instance, you need to have high power resistors. They still can be build into a prop, but enough heatsinking to the outside should be considered (copper or aluminium parts near the resistors that can transfer the heat to the outside). Using resistors that are of a higher rated power (factor 10) than what is required, will also help them to not get to hot, although they still dissipate the calculated power. Hopes this helps you
Wow! LEDs have always mystified me. You just dumbed it down for me perfectly. Thank you so much! Love your presentation as well. Very fun and encouraging.
For those who like to scavenge parts from broken electronic items, the LEDs you pick out might have their legs shortened. In that case a way to know the poles is to look inside the bulb. The negative pole is usually the part that looks like a flag. Remember, the only positive flag is the Swiss flag.
NOTE LEDs can be damaged by excessive soldering. The soldering/de-soldering would be done 3 times. Clip an alligator clip on the lead between the LED bulb and solder joint helps.
Liking your video in advance because I already know that I’m gonna like it and it’s gonna get my creative juices flowing xD ah yeah and also as usual : Corgi Corgi Corgi Corgi Corgi Corgi Corgi You heard it right, Dear Algorithm, it’s all about LEDs and Corgis
Let's honour with a minute of silence the poor LED that sacrificed its life in the name of knowledge. May its shining spirit go to the LED heaven. Thanks to its generous offering more LEDs will survive in untutored hands of beginner coplayers. Rest in gleam, wee LED!
Yeah I know the struggle. I’m always like "if I put on the gloves, I don’t feel the material correctly, so let me just take them off and add a little bit hotgl- HOLYBLEEPINGBLEEP MY FINGER FFFFFFSKIFHDJSJS". Every damn time xD
@@romansakurov9815 Tho the up side is that (at least for my hands/skin) they become far less sensitive to all sorts of weird stuff over time, like I can clean stuff with bleach and it doesnt even sting my hands at this point, tho they do smell like a damn pool for an hour after
CREATE A SMART LAMP THAT CAN MOVE TO ANY DEGREE POSSIBLE AND CAN BE CONTROLLED BY YOUR PHONE ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bUFwJuKF4eI.html
I need your help!! Cosplay dragoons from . Legend of Dragoon Ps1 . How would you make armor weapons & wings that flap slowly ?!? And glowing dragoon spirits
Alright, so, I'm trying to make a freddy fazbear costume for comic-con. I'm trying to do something where I can hook up leds in my mask to a small speaker that plays the music box noise. (From when the power runs out in FNAF 1.) I want to make it so I have a remote-like thing that I can use to turn the leds and sound on and off. Does anyone here know how?
I almost set my classroom on fire using leds, i was making a light and i accidentally made 2 wires touch inside the casing and it heated up extremely fast. That was a fun lesson. By the way the light was a vacuum formed case with 4 leds, a switch, a 9v battery and a resistor.
Great video. I'm sure a lot of novice model builders will find it very useful. I've been installing LED lighting effects in model spaceships and ray-guns, phasers, and such for years - I wish this video had been around when I first started, it would've made things so much easier. Thanks for putting in the time to make this video. BTW, great cosplay outfits!
I’m just starting out with model making and this was incredible!! So thankful for strangers on the internet who have figured this stuff out and are generous with sharing their knowledge 👏🏻♥️
20:59 reminds me of time when i was young, and my grandfather showed me LED, and powered it with battery. he gave me them to play, and i started wondering, if that's how bright it is with battery, i wonder how bright will it be with outlet. spoiler allert: it exploded
Thank you so much for this video! I am getting into making dollhouses & dioramas and lighting is so important, but I have been so intimidated by electronics! Thank you for making the basics so easy to understand!
Great tutorial (although, since I've been trained by NASA in precision soldering, I'm a bit horrified by your soldering and heat shrinking techniques). I look forward to you and your husband making more great content. Keep it up!
CREATE A SMART LAMP THAT CAN MOVE TO ANY DEGREE POSSIBLE AND CAN BE CONTROLLED BY YOUR PHONE ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-bUFwJuKF4eI.html
Thank you for this video (and so much of what you do). I love your & Benni's energy. Fun & informative. A treasure for the community world-wide! ❤from So. Cal!
This is great tutorial for Beginners! And you were right, your soldering was crap (no offense) 🤭 But to become a real soldering professional there are some really simple rules: 1. The Solder is *not* for the soldering Iron but *only* for the Wires. 2. The soldering Iron is only for applying the heat to the Wires. 3. Let the Solder do the work. 4. Never try to "form" the Solder with the soldering Iron if you screwed up the soldering because this is Blasphemy!!! So how do you do it then? 1. Heat up the wires with the soldering Iron and put the tip of the Solder where it has to go: *between* the Soldering Iron and the wires or between the wires. 2. Don't move the soldering Iron! Let the solder float in place itself! Inside the solder there is a flux agent that makes the solder float and easy sticking to the wires. 3. Solder fast! If you bake the solder too long with your soldering Iron, the flux agent will evaporate and the solder will get sticky and you will produce crap. 4. Also helpful: You can apply the solder to a stripped Wire first and let the solder be "sucked" in by the wire. if you use a little more solder you can easily attach the "presoldered" wire to another wire without the helping hand. Ok, so you have created a crappy Connection and you are ashamed to show it to your Friends? How pathetic! You want to slam your Fist on the Table in Anger? That's exactly the right thing to do! But before you let your Rage loose, make a Fist, take your crappy Part between Thumb and Index Finger, heat it up with the Soldering Iron and quickly slam your Fist on the Table. The solder will fly away from the Part an will make a silver Spot on your Table and the Part will be shiny and new for the next Try! (Maybe, if the solder-drop hits your Hand you will feel your HOT Rage even better, so aim well! 😅) at last: Vielen Dank Benni und Svetlana für die tollen Videos und Anleitungen. Ich lasse inzwischen keines Euerer Videos mehr aus. Weiter so!
This is such a helpful tutorial! Amazing and easily understandable. I just need to find a matching cosplay to use this knowledge. Also, gotta love all those special effects!
This is so very useful and awesome tutorial! Can you do a tutorial about using something like car key or a remote for remotely control light and props?
Hi, you ran your LEDs in series which is why you have to increase your voltage. You can wire as many as you like in parallel and still use a 3VDC source, provided the source can provide enough current. You also eliminate issue of one LED burning out and opening the circuit, resulting in all of them going out
I think understanding Ohm's Law is a great tool to understanding the relationships between volts, amps and resistance, which will tell you instantly what size battery and resistor to use for any number of led's. All you need to know is the volt requirement or forward voltage of your particular led and use fresh batteries. You could light the poor little single led for a week, instead of letting the smoke out, with just one resistor. It's also good to know how many amps the led really really wants, cuz it's not the volts that kill you, it's smoking! You have great videos with clear, easy to follow steps and an awesome attitude!
Use flux core solder and tin your parts before joining them to help them join more easily. I use 63/37 or 60/40 lead/tin solder. Even though it has lead, the temps required are much lower than lead-free, which also helps you make better solder joints.
The first 1000 people to use the link will get a free trial of Skillshare Premium Membership: skl.sh/kamuicosplay12201 Thanks again to Skillshare for sponsoring this video!
This was fantastic! The last time I had help making an electric outfit was back in 2001 and it sadly looked like I had a pipe bomb strapped to my back. Sigh. But I digress; I've only just found your channel and I'm happy to say you have a new, enthusiastic subscriber in me! Also, I have to ask: Why the pixellization at 7:32? I've seen so many ridiculous edits/censoring made on this platform recently because of puritanical rules that threaten a channel's demonetization. Are you concerned RU-vid might have found your poking the soldering gun into the Brillo pad (or whatever it's called) too suggestive, or is it more a question of a safety hazard?
Very nice! For improving your soldering skills, you should use soldering paste. It will make the flow of the tin much smoother. Also when soldering, do not hold the the iron first to the tin but instead heat up first the wire and the soldering joint properly, then let the tin flow over it.
At 17:28 shouldn't that have shown wiring in parallel, not series!? because you hadn't changed to a 9v battery yet. With the 3 wired as you showed there, on a 3v battery, each led would experience a 1v drop with the 3 totaling the 3v of the battery and your current would drop due to the higher resistance. Assuming the voltage could overcome the diode effect and flow, it would have 3x the battery life, but I doubt the leds would light up with only 1v each.
This was the first actually simple LED noob tutorial I could actually follow. Thank you for exposing everything in such detail an also for showing exactly what you use. I’ve never done anything like that and this has been a big help
I've played with LEDs pretty much the same way you did. I've watched a dozen videos of guys trying to explain all the technical mumbojumbo. None did it as well as you!! And none had the pretty smile or bubbly attitude either
I just started watching videos on LED installations for a project I'm planning, yours was the second one I've seen. Your way of breaking down a installation made it seem so simple. And you know sometimes the simple way is the best way. The project I'm planning is a wood carving of a painting that has neon lights on it. I plan to use Led lights hidden in the wood to light up the neon arrows in the painting. And also have blinking orange and yellow LEDS reflex off the wood wall to look like fire.
Well 3yrs late but this was the most informative guide into wiring LEDs... I was looking to do a 3 LED with a switch setup for my Ecto Goggles... Appreciate this, you convinced me to look into getting a soldering iron setup, my own kids and even myself will have some fun wiring up lights lol. Thanks! Also do you have a recommended wire stripper/cutter like the one in your video?
Just a little improvement on the explanation: LEDs don't "have" a voltage, they have a forward voltage or also called voltage drop. Basically meaning they need at least that voltage to light up. ;)
I am just so glad I found you, not only are your cosplays amazing, but your explanations for the LED's vs resistors are awesome too. I'll use your advice with my Fallout 3 pip boy model I'm printing!
Interesting stuff. I've been toying with the idea of lighting up my miniature projects, but seems like a lot of tool purchases for a minor cosmetic change. :P Cheers for the in-depth instructional video, good watch.
Watching this video, while giving me 1 or 2 answers, have presented me with about 15 new questions and this seems to be literally the only channel on twitch or youtube that comes even close to a place where one might ask and actually get answers.
Thankyou! So helpful and basic for those that haven't even touched on LEDs get. Have the book but it's great seeing video of the actual process as well. Can't wait to start doing some LEDs in my cosplays.
PLEASE HELP IF YOU KNOW ABOUT LEDs AND ELECRONICS!! I'm needing to wire 20 x White 5mm leds (4000mcd, 3.2V, 20mA (Resistor for 12VDC 430Ω/ Resistor for 9VDC 300Ω)) in a section of my puppet/ prop. Can anyone tell me (or advise on how to figure out) what size battery or how many batteries I would need for 20 x leds with the specs above? Sure I don't need 7 x 9v batteries to power 20 tiny lights...I'll be installing a switch in the circuit. Thank you sm for your help if anyone sees this!!
Forget L.E.D's. I still use incandescent lamps. Nice warm glow, no polarity, and vintage looking. My better half still til this day loves vintage bulbs for his tape drive computer he built. The tape drive is completely done out of DT logic gates, and the DTL logic gates using germanium transistors, diodes, and carbon composition resistors don't like L.E.D's very well. Lol, L.E.D's are a joke.
Does Anyone know a substitute for LED foam?? I live in Japan and apparently I cannot get it anywhere. I have looked into foreign cosplay shops that have them but they only ship in their region and Japan is not included, so I cannot buy it from overseas either... I have seen Plastazote in Japanese shops but they’re not sold in the form favorable for cosplay crafts (it’s grey, and is shaped like a box because it is sold as maintenance purpose product) I’ve seen other people in Japan looking for the same answer over on Twitter so maybe we just need to give up and do it the hard way... I’m thinking of using a clear folder to over the opening for the LED and coating it with white colored resin to diffuse the light. But I really hope I can find something close to LED foam here...
Great video, very informative and easy to follow! However, I'm wanting a little more speci fic and detailed information?? I want to power 10 X 10mm RED LED's with a foldable USB solar panel? I don't have the specs for that handy but can get them, however, it's the kind designed to replenish your mobile phone battery when camping, etc... Any hints, tips or other useful information would be most appreciated. I am ok with electronics, just not an expert. Have all the necessary tools!! My helping hand also has a magnifying glass which I find very helpful, was only about AU$40. Additionally, my soldering is a little neater as I've been doing it a while and I'm OCD about neatness in my electronic projects! I'm reluctant to cut the wires and install all 10 LED's before I'm sure it will work!! It's actually for a Christmas lights decoration project I'm upgrading. The other factor to take into account is that the wires are 10 metres long, I have 2, positive and negative, so serial, so far I have attached 1 led to the end of both wires and attached the power connection to the other end, nothing happened!! I know the LED works! And it is connected in the correct orientation. But now I'm stumped. So when I saw your video pop up I watched to see if you could help..... Can you?? Hopefully yours, Jenny
Thanks for the tutorial.. I've been messing around with a little bit of circuitry myself and was baffled that my LEDs weren't working although I had enough voltage.
great now just teach me how people freehand flawless replica sculpts of complex designs from games ^^ I have enough trouble DRAWING accurately, and I THOUGHT i was a pretty good clay sculptor, but I see people online just freehanding fuckin... zelda ancient shrines, ultradetailed RPG armor, intricate emblems, perfect circles... also why cant wires and batteryholders just come with little plug-n-play ends :p
You did a great video on LEDs and you were using an excellent and quick wire stripper tool. I didn’t see it in the link can you please provide it thank you. By the way you have wonderful videos.
