Our house burnt down in late Aug 2021 , so we been staying in a 30 foot camper , and the heater did not work in it, now that it's winter time, i bought 1 of theses about 2 months ago and since i installed it , it has not been turned off, have it hooked to a 250 gallon tank , so far so good no problems with it running all day every day , mornings we turn it down on the lowest setting, at night we turn it on the max setting and it keeps us toasty at night , I'm going to buy another just incase something goes wrong with this one
I use it to heat my house, got it in 2020, I got a dud fan motor, failed but I replaced with better quality berrings and no issue since, they are amazing, I put on a filter to the intake to keep it nice and clean. I live off grid on solar so others know! 1.9Kw array 230ah battery at 48v, dc-dc converter to supply 12v loads.
Thanks for sharing your experiences. I'm installing a hitch mounted diesel heater on an Airstream trailer. You've given me some great ideas to work with.
Let me know how it goes. One more thing I will modify on mine: I will drive a stake into the ground and mount the pump on it to reduce the clicking noise getting into the cabin. Good luck mate!
I've watched enough videos for these types of units to know that the controller unit itself is the thermostat. I see another commenter stating you have to press two buttons on the controller together to change from Hz to C. Hope you got yours sorted out. Thanks for the video.
Nice set up One thing I would do differently Is heat rises and cold goes to the bottom Based on that I would love the air intake a little farther away and pick up the intake air at the same height as he is bringing the hot air into the cabin... Since that is a height he is happy with around his children... But it is a nice system
I use dieselheater in my boat. I take all air from outside. Fresh warm air inside. For your mounting, I will have lift the exhaust uppwards, with a little hat above. Stick a little hole in the exhaust pipe lowest point for letting possible water get out. Much safer.
Do the Afterburner upgrade if you are relying on an inexpensive diesel heater. It gives you more control and lets you maintain temperature like a typical furnace thermostat. Swapping the control board on the heater is dead simple.
FYI...I've used the air heater and fluid heater models and for webasto models there is a timer for starting an hour before you get up in the morning so you place is toasty and you can give it a shut down time also....enjoy your day
Tks for sharing. Would mounting the fuel tank higher than the fuel pump be easier on the pump? Also, I saw a few ppl having the air intake hose inside the structure they are heating instead of drawing the colder air from outside.
Mounting the pump like that would help the pump, I just personally can't do it since I don't want to get it close to dirt (sand). I didn't want to get the cold air to come from the inside of the cabin, since you would essentially blow air from inside the cabin into the outside, making the cabin lower pressure so cold air from the outside would flow back in through the cracks making the system inefficient.
Running on low these can soot up. Not that big of a deal as you can disassemble them and clean them and put them back together. But if you run them on high they won't do that😉
@@petertomasovszky136 This is a common myth. If the air to fuel ratio is correct, you can run these indefinitely on low without any issues. People who have problems either aren't giving the heater enough air or are giving it too much fuel. I run two of these heaters in my RV, and have ran them on low for two years now with the air to fuel ratio adjusted for 6500 feet in altitude.
My understanding is they do have these with thermostats to regulate a certain temperature?? Is this not true? Your the first I’ve hear say that you can’t run it like a normal furnace would set to a temperature.
keep extra atomizer screens on hand. They get carboned up when you run it alot. I have many hours on mine. If you depend on it I feel it's worth to keep a second unit on hand so you can change it out if something goes wrong and fix the broken unit in the warm room
These can be switched from Hz to temperature controlled, the controller has a thermometer and can adjust the flow rate to reach a desired room temp :-)
There is some mis-information here. These units can be run on their side IF you mount it with the glow plug on the top side. Mine has been running just fine mounted sideways for over a year now.
@@petertomasovszky136 it’s probably good to know if you want to put one on a boat. Mine is mounted in a minivan, so my options for mounting locations was severely limited. I love your home.🙂
Regardless if you install inside or out carbon monoxide can be in the air outlets into cabin if for example you had broken seal or cracked gasket you should still get a carbon monoxide detector
So I guess Planar/Autoterm is worth buying because it has option that it automatically changes the level and temperature based on the temperature that one wants inside. Thermostat, I think that's how it's called. More expensive yes, but probably worth the investments in many ways.
Since then I learned that the temperature sensor is built in, just not enabled. There are ways to enable the thermostat. See some of the other comments. Good luck
0:33 "this is a very inefficient diesel engine"... No this is not an Engine ("An engine or motor is a machine designed to convert one or more forms of energy into mechanical energy."). This is a very efficient Heater/Heat exchanger. Diesel is ignited in a chamber inside, which has a different core inside, of which fresh air is blowing through the centre, this air gets heated from the hot metal chamber transferring heat into the air. The warm air is then blown into whatever area you want to heat, and the hot exhaust gas from the burnt diesel exits the heating chamber out through an exhaust..
I think the outside mount is way better. I don't think a lot of these ,come with instructions. I see a lot of people putting these inside. Who wants to listen to this thing all the time?
One more question by having the fuel tank outside with diesel or any other fuel don't you worry about it freezing up on you and wouldn't it be better to have the fuel tank on the inside of the cabin just asking
I am in Texas. Since I had it in the past 2 years, diesel never froze to me. I keep it outside because I am worries about fumes. It's also easier and safer to refuel this way. If you live in a colder state, you might want to put it inside, people do it all the time. Ask me my question you want
thank you very much for sharing this information.. i wanted to know if you know how much fuel these use.. maybe about how much it uses in a full day or two of running.. thank you and best wishes
I can tell you exactly since I just came back from the cabin. Fuel consumption will depend on the thermostat setting, outside temperature, amount of insulation, and a ton of other factor. Last night it was 26 degrees outside, I set the thermostat to 16 Celsius (these things only do Celsius). My cabin is 300 square feet, insulated with r13. It used exactly 4 liter of diesel in 14 hours. I hope this helps.
@@petertomasovszky136 thanks for the information peter.. it is quite funny really as that is quite close in size and insulation of the cabin i am working on.. it seems that it would be pretty effiecient for me to use as well.. i will probably test it some as for setup then add in a larger tank so it wont have to be filled as often.. i wish you many years of peace in nature with your family in yours
@@whitefreeman5798 you are so welcome. Some people actually buy a 50 Gallon drums for a tank, and store diesel that way (since diesel doesn't even expire). Goo luck with your project!
The wall thickness is 3.5", not enough width. I don't want the unit to stick out of the wall. I am also worried that the joint between the exhaust pipe and nipple fails, and CO gas would leak into the cabin. I also like the fact that I can service the unit outside the cabin (no need to pull panels off the wall, etc).
I did. The black hose was too tight, and the only way I could fit it on the plastic tube in the heater is by splitting the hose. So I wanted to make sure there is no ear leak with the tape.
im getting ready to mount this same unit underneath my rv.... not only for safety [co2] but the noisey fan will be outside too i know the large hose [intake] would be better to route inside to use warmer inside air to reheat and send back inside, but i wonder if the small intake hose would be better to leave outside to use outside cold for the combustion since colder air is far more dense [more oxygen] which in combustion engines/turbos etc... burns better and more efficient with very cold air for the combustion process! what are your thoughts?
I will be honest with you, for me, the fan noise is not the problem. It's a clicking sound of the fuel pump. I would work on that instead. The rubber mounting ring is too stuff, so the shaking of the pump transfers to whatever you mount it it (wood frame of the cabin). So. I would either mount it with something softer or I would mount it to something that is super heavy (large chunk of steel) so vibration can't transmit. You can still work on the fan noise if you want to (I would recycle the cabin air so I would get the cold air intake from the cabin) but you could put all kind of twists in the 3" pipe to lower the noise. Let me know how the build goes.
Handy way I use to reduce sound through vibration on online 5" bathroom extraction fans mounted to the rafters in the attic is I use rubber tap washers between the fan mounting screws and the wood. Reduce the vibrations significantly. Rafter, tap washer then fan with a screw through the hole in the fan mount, then the tap washer hole then onto the timber. Would love to know it it makes a difference with the fuel pump sound.
@@petertomasovszky136 No, no. Not at all. I am researching diesel heaters and saw your video and thought it looked a funny place to put it but I had one in my truck and slept in it.
@@deanmills5106 I think it would be more than enough. But also, there is not a huge price difference. Definitely go with one that has the largest tank though
@@deanmills5106 they are all 4kw, no matter what they claim, 8, 5kw = 4kw, they make a 2Kw sized unit. so simply select the type you like no matter the power claims. Next is make a mixer so you can adjust the amount of air taken from inside cabin and out side, this should help you to better control inside temp
@@petertomasovszky136 a fan is an excellent idea. I use a ceiling fan that I use in reverse during the winter. Since warm air rises, I reverse it so the fan flows up pushing the warm air up and then it flow out and against the cabin walls going down. Hard to describe but that is what I found best to get the hot air away from the ceiling. Great video.
You need 12V DC to power this thing. So if you don't have a battery bases system, I would buy a 110 AC to 12V DC supply to power it. Something that supports at least 10A current at 12V (120W). Something like this: www.amazon.com/EPBOWPT-Adapter-Converter-Transformer-Flexible/dp/B07DJ2RSX8/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=13DAXRFYH9SM8&keywords=12v+dc+power+supply+10A&qid=1669070251&sprefix=12v+dc+power+supply+10a%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&psc=1
Thanks for the video. Not many on installing in a cabin. One question would be if mounting it like you have outside does that affect the amount of heat it produces if your weather is cold? Does the case contain the Heat adequately and also how cold is it in your area, does it snow?
That really depends on a lot of things (temperature outside, desired temperature inside, insulation, volume of air inside, etc). I am in Texas, temperature outside doesn't really drop below 32F, my cabin is 400 sqft, I keep 14C inside cabin. If I run it for a whole day, it's about 1-2 gallon a day.
@@philcummings9557 About half of the size of mine. If it doesn't get too cold where you live and you have enough insulation in the walls, I think a 5kW unit would be enough for you. I would also get 1 with much larger tank, so you don't have to refill every day.
Only the exhaust is bad (just like a car exhaust). You should not breath that in since it might contain carbon monoxide. The hot air that it makes doesn't smell anything.
Yes. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-nBFCWPClr8A.html It even has a basic turbo. It makes the main fan spin, but more importantly it generates a ton of heat while doing it. Hence inefficient.
It isn't a diesel engine, it is a diesel burner. There is no piston inside. I'm really concerned where the burner intake hose is leading to??? If in to your living space that is very dangerous.
@@petertomasovszky136 it just seems you’re causing it to heat more then it needs to when it’s really cold out. Maybe you could box it in and insulate the box I have one in my small school bus I’ve converted into an rv and they do work good. Where is your cabin located?
@@petertomasovszky136 But I haven't got it yet. It may be crap and only last a month. Most likely, it will need fixing and improvements ,right out of the box to work right. But that's OK. I like fixing things sometimes.
Thank you for the feedback. I have steel or aluminum brackets for the heater, exhaust, anything that gets hot. And i frequently check for issues (burn marks). Most people use the same technique to mount these things in RVs
Checked all the comments, this is your first one. What do you mean input and output? Input is diesel and 12V DC (about 1Amp), output is 8kW worth out heat and some exhaust gas.
@@petertomasovszky136 Sorry about the confusion, I am sure your product is ok. I was trying to comment on the little heater in the opening ad. Silly me.
Mine is sooo loud, it's like sleeping with the vacuum on and the heat is piss weak. You close it and in 5 minutes the cabin goes cold again even though i had it open all day. Worst thing ever
