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Beautiful result Uri. One big thing which may be tripping you up is that you seem to be scoring the glass multiple times. That's generally a big no-no when it comes to glass cutting, and tends to lead to fragments being broken off rather than the crack propagating along the scoreline. Score once, snap once. Glass cutting is an art indeed!
Yes, I should have looked at videos before I attempted to do it myself. They make it look dk easy😅. Perhaps a thiner plate would have help aswell. I don't think I have the neck for glass work😂
@@urituchmanpigeon oh tell me about it, I gave it up long ago. Last time I tried was to make a custom rear view mirror for my van I ended up belt sanding it to shape 😄
Cutting wheels are tungsten carbide: - don't go over a cut twice, it makes the wheel dull - each wheel is good for 3 - 5 cuts, then throw it away; it is dull - cutting oil helps, but the wrong kind makes the wheel dull - looking at the wheel makes it dull
Thanks, I appreciate it! I'm really not trying to be extra modest or anything, but when I see masters work online I can't help but feel a bit amateurish, which is totally fine by me.
couple tipps for cutting glass: 1: never cut twice over the same crack, it fucks up your cutting wheel. The one you used is probably pretty scuffed already. 2: tapping the cut with a hammer is a good way to deepen the cut. LIGHT hammer taps from the bottom (the uncut side) until the sound of the tapping changes 3: you can put some cutting oil on the cutter, it will make it last longer. 4: you can put something like terpentine where you will cut, it also enhances cutting power Beautiful piece! Seeing these kind of videos makes me want to get into crafting again. Also top notch editing haha
When I have to cut a glass bottle, I score the glass once and then run boiling water over the line, immediately followed by cold water. I alternate between boiling and cold water a few times and usually that will break the glass perfectly along the line. I wonder if that also works for sheet glass.
It'd definitely work! But not really necessary. 'Running' the line is pretty easy with gentle pressure either from running pliers or pressing the glass into a foam or soft surface will work, or very traditionally, just tapping. Bottles are hard mode@@eelcogg !
I've been working with glass for several years now, and i have some tips. 1. You should never cut twice. One firm but smooth cut only, or it won't break properly. 2. You have to use a cutting lubricant (kerosene is fine). This is applied to the glass where you will make the cut. 3. When trying to break out a circle, you must do it from the back. Support the top (cut side) of the glass, and push directly on the bottom (uncut side) of the cut. You will see it break a little, and you just "run" this break all the way around. After that, you need to cut a relief on each side (where the circle is closest to the edge) and take the trim (scrap glass) off in 4 separate pieces. This is because you cannot remove a circle from a hole that's exactly the same size as the circle.
"… engraving is inevitable so that's going to happen …" Thank you for reminding me that ornamentation does not have to be called for. I just replaced an 8lb (~4kg) sledgehammer handle and took the opportunity to mill flats on the side so I could engrave "Katy's Hammer" on one side and "Whosoever holds this hammer; should she be worthy, shall possess the power too… sunder timber" on the other. With flourishes of course, I am not an animal.
Cutting glass has been part of my profession for 24 years. It likes to fracture in straight lines, and in paths of least resistance. For that reason, scoring multiple times tends to cause jagged edges and additional fractures. A slow, deliberate and firm score works best. What can help with scoring is dabbing the cutter wheel on a sponge soaked in wd40. Idk why it helps, but it does. And when cutting circles/ovals score additional tangents to the circle so it looks like a whirlpool, making sure that there's about 5mm between the circle and the start of the tangent score. Tap the unsecured side of the glass, tracing the scoring. Tap the circular score first and gently so the scores become cracks. It will be visible when the scores crack. Once your circle is set, tap the tangent scores. The cracks should break to meet in the same direction on their own, and you can remove the loose pieces as they fall away. Thanks for uploading. I always enjoy your content❤
_"Idk why it helps, but it does"_ - it lubricates the wheel, so it rolls easier on it's axis, and then WD-40/ kerosene/ glass cutting oil (yes, there is such oil) seeps into the score (which is a miniscule crack in the glass) - i.e. capillary force "push" it into the glass, and it either reduces the attraction between glass molecules (van der Waals force?) or in some other fashion facilitates the propagation of the initial crack (which is caused by "scoring", and lies underneath it) - or both (can't remember now exactly). Also, "wiping off" the glass where you intend to make the score (just swipe yer finger across the glass) removes whatever dust have accumulated there and that helps to prolong the life of the wheel... or so I was told when I started my glazing job about twenty years before you did ;-)
@@davidhoward496 Also, I forgot to say, but then you might know it very well yourself, so all the following is probably "teaching a priest how to say Lord's Prayer" but I'll write it anyway ;-) So, high quality glass cutters have single wheel pivoting heads (so the head always stays 100% parallel to the direction of the cutting movement/ travel and/or the straight edge) and they have hollow brass handles which double as containers for cutting oil (which seeps down to the wheel lubricating it and wetting the score). Google for "silberschnitt oil glass cutter" (for example). For regular "dry" cutters there are so-called oiling stands available, in which you place a small piece of cotton cloth or felt (a piece of a paper towel would also do) soaked in cutting oil - when you don't use the cutter you place it in this stand, and whenever you want to make a score the cutting head (and the wheel) is already oiled. Also, I'm no longer doing any glazing (it's been "quite a while" since I quit it) - apart from occasional "could you help me, please?" for friends and such, and at any rate virtually all windows now use IGUs (aka double glazing units). Cheers!
The glass is tapped exactly along the glass cutter's line until a crack appears under this line. and I highly recommend changing the roller tip to corundum or diamond, the rollers do not cut well.
Nope. Diamond only scratches the glass. The steel wheel creates a line of weakness in the glass and the fracture follows this line. Try scratchig a piece of glass and you will find that the fracture line does not follow the scratch.
@@tednelson5277 I think you may be confused, as everything you said is wrong. First off all that "weakness" you reference is the scratch. All glass cutters - steel, carbide, and diamond - score or scratch the glass in order to encourage the breakage to follow that line. It does not always follow the line, but that is due to the natural "grain" of the glass, not any artificial weakness caused by the steel cutter. Why would the weakness created by the wheel be off the path of the scratch anyways?
@@tednelson5277 i was try it a lot of time. line of weakness is pretty exist for scratch by diamond too, because fact of surface damage is enough for it with a little tapping. wheel instead require a lot of pressing for desribed result and often crack the glass if you press too strong. wheeel is advertised as a try to awoid tapping at all but it is not a good solution - just a cheap production. Additonally - wheel is awful for a small radius curves.
@@anatoliyzhestov3915 Sorry, but you are wrong. If the glass breaks wheel you use a wheel, you are no supporting the glass. Diamond only scratches. Ask any professional stained glass cutter.
@@tednelson5277 ask any professional you mention what he does and he will tell you - I draw hundreds of straight lines a day. In these conditions, a roller that can be changed frequently and is inexpensive is an advantage. But among those who do small, precise work with small radii and want to get a very clean and precise cut, the number of diamond glass cutters may a lot surprise you.
_Of course_ you made the fanciest glass cutter! You're Uri Tuchman-it wouldn't matter what thing you made, it could not possibly be less than the fanciest example of that thing in existence!
If you have ever eaten one of my mother steaks, you would change your mind about steel being harder than steaks. Uri you are a true artist with a gift that makes the world a better place when you share it with us. thanks for sharing.
I like the engraved brass better anyway. Looks more authentic. As others have said, one pass withe the cutter is all you should need. Thanks for sharing!
Love the tool! I would suggest making or buying running pliers and grozers to break the glass though. As fun as the wrench was and the hammer? Neither are for breaking the glass. Also, only cut the glass once. If it sings it's fine. Don't add extra stress to the crystal structure by cutting bunches. I teach stained glass to high schoolers and that's one of the top 5 things that'll break their piece. Lol
Technically a glass cutter it's not a cutter - it's an incision-er. The real cut is done by putting enough pressure on the cutter while using it. Second only cut one time - never go over a cut twice. It will ruin the cutter blade or the cut - mostly both. After the "cut" you can enhance the crack by putting oil inside and hitting it with something like a hardened steel ball bearing. Apart from that your overall product is so beautiful! Keep on with this work!
The way glass cutters work is "stress concentration" which just means that they make a very sharp but shallow gash in the surface which should make the glass split right there. The reason this works is because what breaks a material isn't just the amount of force but the force divided by the area where the force is applied which is called stress. So, if you make that area very small, like at the tip of a very sharp scratch, the stress becomes huge. So, it's actually better to make a single fine scratch with the glass cutter rather than going over the same line may times because while you're making the gouge deeper, you're also making it wider and thus duller
Love your videos and your humor man, good stuff, the edits are very fun. Can't believe you don't have 1M subs yet. It's great to see legit artists on RU-vid being themselves. Cheers.
trying new tools/workflow is always intimidating. I encourage you not to give up trying to incorporate those new processes. As much as I love seeing your brass/woodwork, It is refreshing to see you trying out new things and I hope you continue to do so.
It is awesome how much this man has evoled, and grown. Even his social skills talking to viewers are noticeably better. I am a fan of this channel definitely!
I second the comments saying that the casting molds need some "spouts". Places where the extra metal can go, chasing air out. But for such fine detail you probably need to use an injection mold. I tried making flat molds but the result needs a lot of additional work to remove excess metal on the back and possible re-work details. Having said that, the result is amazing, it looks so cool! I hope the client sends you photos of it in use
I used to be a “machine operator” for an aerospace contractor. Which is sort of like being a machinist without the in-depth knowledge… Man all I can say is you a fantastic craftsman! You make it look easy but that takes some real skill! Keep up the great work.
I've also had great difficulty casting detailed objects in tin, in high temp silocone moulds. Eventually I discovered that adding bismuth helps a lot (about 85% tin to 15% bismuth by weight). Then get it as hot as possible and pour it as fast as possible.
You make me happy, Mr Tuchman. I admire your willingness to try new things, fail, and learn. I think you are the most amusing and engaging engraver on the internet, so you might not be the master but you are very watchable and that is why you get my attention. Thank you.
When you want to get good metal casting results with all these fine lines you have to use either that so-called "type metal" (alloy of lead, antimony and tin) or bismuth - as they EXPAND when they solidify, thus filling up all these intricate mould patterns. (Type metal was used to cast individual "letter blocks" used in mechanical typesetting in pre-computers prehistoric times.)
I have a tip for getting the curved cuts, and cool enough, it's a secret feature you added to the cutter and didn't know it! Turn that sucker around and hit the glass with the butt of the gun multiple times along the scores. Not so hard to shatter it, but firm enough to make it vibrate. It causes micro fractures along the score lines, and eventually the microfractures will all connect and the glass will just pop apart where you scored it. On a standard glass cutter, that's why it will often have a large ball on the handle end, but the butt of the gun would likely work really well for that! Also, your work is really awesome and I love seeing your ideas to fix problems; like the offset screw that covers the pin.
Uri, I think next big project will be investment casting. It will allow to have smallest details. You can nickel plate locally with a wet sponge. If your steel quenched in water then it is W1. O1 is quenching in oil. I had also negative experience with glass cutting. When you scratch the glas you create a weak zone. Doing it multiple times does not help and opposite. When you start applying stress it does not cocentrate if you have several scratches. Perfect video. As always!
I was in Glass industry for over 23 years .Never cut more than once... They do make different size cutting wheels .. Make up antifreeze n water for lubrication when you cut .
While everyone is trying to explain how to cut glass, I just want to say that little Derringer is BadASS! Beautiful engraving, nice handle, clever hinge and the case is perfect! Good job. If you come to the Maker Faire in California, I'll see you there. Bicycle rodeo!
If you aren’t a master engraver who on earth would be? You do such beautiful work and I was quite surprised that you thought of doing it any other way.
As a stained glass art maker, my advice is this: Glass cutting oil will improve performance and reduce chipping...or at least reduce the distance the chips fly, therefore being safer for your eyes. Also, please wear safety glasses when glass cutting! The oil reduces the wear on the cutting wheel because of the reduced friction.
This is so very very very beautiful, and as a glassworker I appreciate it so much!!!!!! Watching you try to cut glass without the correct breaking tools, and cutting twice though... 😛
Ummm … out of curiosity I looked up “Creative” and “Awesome” and to my amazement, your picture was next to the definitions. Thanks pal, you’re wonderful (I’m hesitant to look that up).
I've tried casting tin with that same high temp silicone, casting a 3D printed coin. I think the problem we both ran into is that the tin cools too quickly. The mold needs to be a material that can be heated (sand, ceramic, etc) so the tin cools slowly and can get into all the nooks and crannies. In my case all the holes and imperfections made the coins look like old, corroded shipwreck treasure so it worked out okay.
