I have been doing similar to you but for my boats. I also found that if you need more volts than an 18650 can supply a voltage booster card can be used. I get my batteries from recycle yards that take electric scooters. pulling the battery case apart gives 30 X 18650 cells with some scooters having 50 cells. I pay $40 per pack. A well done film clip. Thanks.
love it, i always wondered why people didnt do a static test of the battery drain since its more subjective than total flight time. you did it you finally answered my question
Nice test. For complete results it would be interesting to measure the thrust of both batteries. Does the li ion can rotate the motor at the same thrust as the lipo?
An interesting exercise although I personally would have soldered the leads to the nickel strips before spot welding them to the batteries. No need to worry about how much heat you are putting into the batteries that way! ;-)
Do you have to connect the balance leads to the nickel strips, or can you connect to the li-ion terminals on either side of the strip? In a case where you don't have a spot welder, it would be jumper wires being used not nickel strips.
@@on1ytheb3st If you are planning to solder directly to the battery terminals you might want to buy the type with solder tabs already attached. Much less likelihood of a mug punter's soldering disaster that way. If you want to use the button or flat end type cells you might be best to just put them in a plastic battery pack. Let us know of any success/disaster. 😉🙃
How many volt needs to be fully charged 3s battery like that I remove one from driller it works great but i dont have the charger to know when is fully charged
First you upload a video about designing an rc wing right after I finished mine and now you upload a video about 3s li ion batterys just after I just completed mine? Something seems a bit off here... Anyways great video😅
I just made my first 18650 battery pack. I had 2 brown outs just cruising with my 7 inch drone. I think my spot welds were not very good. I used 2800mah 35a discharge rated Molicel 18650 cells. Should be plenty good for the drone. My spot welder got the nickel strips to stick to the cells, but I seen no sparks, no smoke when spot welding. I am thinking my poor welds created a lot of resistance and did not allow the power to flow well from cell to cell to drone.
When you started singing the battery song, the neighbor's Tesla spontaneously caught fire. I don't know if there's a connection, but the fire department said it was suicide.
Thats a rather conservative number but that is what the most popular chart says. There's another chart I got off endless sphere that doubles the ratings from the first chart. Best thing to do is to determine how conductive pure nickel is vs copper (don't use nickel plated steel!). Then determine the cross sectional area (thickness x width) then compare that to copper wire, factor in that nickel is only like 25% as conductive as copper and bam you have your rating
HE4's good choice! Similar to the Samsung 25R. Don't get fooled by that Sony rating. Its a 25A cell. When looking at cells see what Battery Mooch or HKJ have said about them. Both of them have tested about every cell out there by the major companies. Mooch gives an honest continuous amp rating catered to the vape world but it applies to all of us
I beg your pardon, but cell is the same as notebooks cells? How do you diy a charger for this? You are running 3xCells in series direct to recievier???
Hello Joyplanes Rc, can you make a video about motor thrust 3s lipo battery vs 3s 18650 battery and last is to use 4s 18650 battery if can beat the 3s lipo battery
i want to use li ion battery but im not really shure if i know how to do it properly. does the balancing cable need to be conected somewhere or is it only when charging. i want to use it with a molex adapter for a rc car
The balance cable is only used for the charger to charge each cell equally. The wires on the balance lead can not handle large current. The main pluglike the xt60 is used to power electronics
The C rating is an issue as well with the cheap 18650 batteries. If you are using a motor which draws 12amps max, a 3s 2200mah li-ion with 2c rating is not gonna cut it. Higher C rating cells are costly and it then makes more sense moneywise to get a lipo. 21700s are well bigger in size and probably heavier but if there's no CG issue, those would be useful.
I am making a GIS Mapping Fixed Wing 2M drone to fly +2 hours (looking at 3.5 to 4 kgs AUW)... so the battery pack is going to be big !! the batt pack is going to be 4S2P style (as of this moment) Li-Ion 18650 , home made pack. I am concerned about HEATING ? Should I be ? I mean if the cells do heat up ... I am concererned about the IN-BETWEEN cells .. will it be dangerously hot inside !! ?
Hl que tal disculpa queria aser un paquete de baterias asi como la que estas asiendo y pues queria saber si mi electronica y el esc 30A lo pueda resibir sin problema
I have a question: I have a drone that uses a 3.7 V lipo battery, the battery is old and I was thinking of changing it. Do you recommend I change it for one of the same voltage of this type? Obviously adapting it to the inputs. The drone is not a racing drone but a medium-small one. Thanks
buy a battery with a voltage and c rating same as the old one. li-ion batteries for that size and amp draw rating may be hard to get. As for the capacity of a new lipo, if the old one was 250 mah and the drone flew nimble and quick, you may be able to get away with buying a much higher capacity battery for example a 300-320 mah for potentially longer flight times at the cost of agility
I'm reserving it for the big planes like my Epsilon XL3 and other future more expensive ones, and the Ethos software is new for me so I'm still learning how to use it, I wish I could install edge TX on it.
I think you have to be careful with homemade li-ion pack as the spot welds cannot handle all the current the battery claim to deliver. So it can be misleading thinking you can use a homemade li-ion pack and get lots of instantaneous current; as you will melt the spot welds and maybe start a fire. If you try to pull lots of amp, that is.
You're right, I would recommend welding as many spots as possible to generate more contact points where current can flow, and the strip has to be thick enough to drive that current.
That will not start a fire. The ideal way is to layer two or three layers of nickel strip or use 0.1mm copper with nickel on top. The nickel on top allows you to spot weld the copper which normally cannot be spot welded
Man this hurts a little. You should know that going under 3,7V per cell already destroys the battery but I bet you haven't touched the Tanár motor once. I am pretty sure that the windings were hella hot and I'm not even talking about the ESC. Outside especially in this weather it would be ok because the air cools it down significantly but in a room temperature with no air flow the propeller won't really cool it down that much. Big dedication of the components for a youtube vid :D
@@Joyplanes okay, I believe the li-ions are a little bit more durable than lipoly, didn't the cells get warm too? I would rather take the 30A output cells at least.
@@LordMarinade "A little bit more durable" you say? 2.5V (and that's conservative) is ALOT more discharge than 3.7. 1.5volts of discharge for the lion vs 0.5V for lipo from the 4.2V max charge for both. Thats 300% more, hardly "a little bit" by any stretch.
