You probably dont give a shit but does someone know of a tool to get back into an instagram account?? I was dumb forgot the account password. I love any help you can give me!
@Ralph Ahmed Thanks for your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Having a little bit of engineering experience, I can confirm that every once in a while ideas do start out as an obvious joke that actually ends up giving promising results
Yeah, It’s actually pretty dangerous to tighten the nozzle with heat and power applied to the hotend. I found out I had exposed wires from the heater cartridge by my wrench holding the heater block sparking on the wires that pulled back from the insulation. So now with V6 style I heat it with the soldering iron.
Thin stepper motors are fine until they got hot and begin missing steps even with Duet WiFi drivers at 24V. It was smart move. And Trianglelab clone is better as for me due to they solved problem of easy changing nozzle block.
Great video, but I was never a fan of the Hermera and the E3D hotends in general. On the Hermera, the heatsink that would normally be used to only keep the cold zone cold is now also keeping the stepper motor (which produces a ton of heat) cool. Just unnecessary. It may work, but the heatsink wouldn't have to be as big if it wasn't also having to dissipate the heat from the stepper motor. E3D just seems stuck with the V6 heatbrake design and refuses to do anything better. I absolutely despise the loose hot block, having to hold the block while tightening the nozzle. And the fact that because the heat brake is the only thing attaching the block to the heatsink, you have to balance strength with trying to reduce heat transfer as much as possible. The result is always a compromise between being too weak and likely breaking if you have any sort of nozzle crash at all, or too thick and doesn't do its job as a heat brake well. The Mosquito, Dragon, DragonFly etc are all amazing hotends, more compact than the V6 with a better heat sink design (quite a bit smaller), and because the heat brake is no longer structural on those, it can have much better thermal properties because it's much, much thinner. And to top it all off, one handed nozzle changes. I wish E3D would do something different. They're a great company and I support them where I can (I always buy the E3D Copper Plated Nozzles), but their hotends seriously leave something to be desired IMO. The E3D V6 was great in its time, but there are much better solutions out there these days.
Hey, thanks for your honest comments and for supporting us where possible. All we can say is that big things are on the horizon, watch this space, we hope we'll be able to blow your socks off later this year. Thanks, E3D
@@E3DOnline @BladeScraper This seems like a really genuine, constructive interaction between a consumer with valid criticisms, and a manufacturer who is doing their best to innovate in a new space. You love to see it, and it's great that content creators on YT like @Maker's Muse are able to facilitate it! One of my favourite things about 3D printing is that even relative outsiders/amateurs can and do have brilliant ideas and breakthroughs. It might be the most communal, globally developed technology ever!
7:34 Yeah, they teach this in the first week of highschool freshman Drafting class. Probably my favorite class. Learned so much in that class, I was able to skip college and become a blue spring reader for Local 4 Brick Layers and Allied Craft Workers.
ohhhhh snap, thats were all my shipments went, i get notifications telling me theyre in the country then they dont show up til months later than the estimated delivery date
I’d love to see Angus try a custom DIY printer build the likes of VzBot, Voron or RatRig. I’d always thought I knew what his answer would be, as he normally focuses in the end-user’s perspective of a product and that, as an industrial designer, he sees 3D printers as tools to “empower creativity through technology” rather than the meta hobby. But the sometimes videos like this or his 3D printer inside a prop scratch build pop up, which are more in line with the DIY meta community. Anyway, I’d just love to see Angus’s reaction to use a VzBot at max speeds :)
Can you do a video about the Anycubic Mega Zero, i recently bougt one and like to hear your view/ comments on it.... maybe even tips on how to get it in to top shape?
Had a similar issue with Filamentum PLA, everything looks good for a few layers then all of the sudden it clogs. I can use the same file on different PLA and no issue. Also never figured it out, just stoped buying from this brand.
I have the same "glass lattice" thing from tronxy and nothing would stick until I roughed up the surface, it now prints PLA with a 50deg bed though YMMV so try lightly sanding with P60 sandpaper on the bed don't go too hard just make sure there are lines, 240 didn't seem to work
Have you printed everything on that wobbly table? That might explain why the cat failed at nearly the same height. I've never seen such violent wobble before :D
Well it succeeded when he changed filaments. Maybe it's a combination of heat creep and retraction? Maybe the silver handles retraction better in a way that it didn't cool too high up the hotend?
I'm not 100% sure why the yellow cat failed but will do some investigations. Sadly yes the table is mega wobbly - almost all my desks are foldable to free up space and they're REALLY wobbly. I'd love to get a well supported rising table for the studio this year which doesn't wobble.
That thermal runaway is especially bad for Muse I think because he likes birds, and from what Ive read even normal ptfe tube situations lead to a dangerous amount of chemicals in the air for birds, so this might have let off enough to do things to birds not even in the same room.
@@MakersMuse I have been told the the additive in PTFE that causes the dangerous fumes was removed by most countries (probably not China). Worth investigating sources of safe PTFE.
wow wait! There was a cool tip on measuring distance between holes that you just blasted right through. I love how concise you are with these videos, but coming from someone who does a lot a design for functional parts these are the little gems that got me watching all your videos.
I had a hell of a time getting their extruder to properly grip the filament. After a month of tweeking with it trying to get it to work, I decided the tensioner was way too finicky for me and promptly went back to my bondtech extruder on my main printer and haven't looked back. Edit: wow, that frame is super flimsy. It badly needs some bracing, you can see the whole frame moving back and forth while you're printing. Also, I put the DDX on my nephew's ender 3 and it's awesome.
@@MakersMuse Maybe you can print some snap-on braces that would tension the legs against the table top. If the legs are stiff, it won't wobble. Or just replace the folding joints with some better joint that probably already exists.
Stringing is part for the game for flexibles? Try the "NinjaFlex Profile - Zero Stringing - Flawless Print " from prusaprinters on your MK3/MK3S. I'm basically printing TPU flawlessly like PLA with that profile. I can fill the buildplate with TPU prints and i won't get a single wispy string. With the hemera you definately should not be getting any stringing, as the system is almost made for printing TPU. Also, if your CF Nylon has a "really rough surface finish" it's probably wet. CF nylon doesn't really string that bad, but it gets a really rough surface finish when it's wet.
Great profile, thanks. Doing some tests now based off it and also trying external perimeters first - much better on the benchy now trying the wheel again. The rigid ink PA12 CF really is that rough, and actually a little too stiff (you can snap the filament on the roll), I dry it for quite a while before printing.
My solution for inadequate cooling performance due to the bed heater was to simply set the temperature to 30° after the 1st layer. The reason I don't turn it off completely is because the room temperature is about 10°. Edit: Have only tried this with a paper tape bed and PLA. Not sure if this works with any other material.
Yeah, I do this for many of my other printers but with the ceramic coated glass beds, they "self release" at lower temperatures so you can't turn them down much.
Love this type of video. I have several 3d printers now and to be honest I get more fun out of modifying them than actually running them. So far I haven't tried either the Hemera or the BIQU version but have done several mods to convert to DD.
Can you do a review of the creality ender 5? I am thinking of buying that but you are really the only person I trust to review 3d printers and for 3d printing advice
Always a good show. Thanks Angus and I also watch 3D Printing Nerd. Still on a learning curve with Nylon fails and my X1 Sidewinder. Cheers from Perth.
Yeah, RIP rigid.ink :( I have some lovely filament from them, but they took so much of my money in 2017-2019, so my wallet is breathing a sigh of relief, at least! I'm still waiting for someone else to start selling the ABS+PA (IIRC...) blend that rigid.ink released not long before closing shop. I've got a small spool of it, and admittedly I've not yet had a chance to try it out, but it sounded really appealing...
I have the exat same issue with my filament. I'm using DasFilament for a long time now. I have a new setup hotend, fresh nozzle all that stuff on my prusa mini. Loaded filament, everything fine, but starting the print, it glogged immedietly. Coldpull, new attempt, same result. Coldpull,another DasFilament spool, freshly openend, same issue. Then another coldpull, swapped to Filamentworld, run the same gcode and it printed perfectly. The colors that didn't work were yellow and orange. Might it be too much pigmentation? Making the filament harder to push through? I also tried higher temps and I use a 0.6mm nozzle which should be better on that, but still no luck on those DasFilament spools.
I had a serious problem with E3D Volcano hardened nozzle, heat break, and the aluminum heat block. The issue is that all three part are different metals that expand and contract at different rates. It would cause leaks at the top of the heat block after a few print jobs. I chased this issue replacing all the parts multiple times until E3D suggested I switch to the copper block. It's a miracle, no leaks and no jams for two years now. If you have issues with heat creep, jams, or leaks, switch out the heat block to copper.
As Barnes Built said, using a step bit is great. If you don't have one, don't use "progressively larger" bits, you'll just damage the bits, chipping and dulling them. Use a 1/8" (3mm?) for the pilot hole then go straight to the bit for the final size of the hole. Anything else and you wind up with bits trying to cut sharp edged metal starting from the middle of their cutting edge and you'll chip them there and quite possibly at their outer edges as well. Just a tip from a fabricator, take it or toss it.
I really hope E3D decides to sell the drive components separately. I bought a few of these for my printers and I like to keep backup parts, but due to the issues E3D was having, they do not sell the drive components as a separate purchase. They do sell everything else as separate components.
I have tried it all. All those premium hotend setups are not worth the investment with all the other options available. No noticeable improvement in print quality compared to a v6 clone with a 3d printed direct drive mount and a creality knock off dual drive extruder. Total cost about 30-40$ and easier interchangeable parts. Also dont ever buy the knock off bondtech extruders. Those things always fail in about month of heavy printing as the plastic gears wear out. Cant speak for the genuine bondtechs as I am too cheap to buy one.
Hey Angus! Big fan here :) Your videos are always awesome. I appreciate the shoutout for Kim's Kickstarter!~ I'm one of the merchants for campaign 1 and 2. Cheers!
I've done a similar mod to my Sapphire Pro and it went from being a terrible and unreliable 3d printer to a great machine. The first things I did was replace the original firmware with a version of marlin, replaced all the noisy fans, replaced the stock PEI sheet with a creality magnetic bed and replaced the stock rigid lead screw coupler. Then I tried to upgrade the shitty hotend with an E3D v6, but the prints were still unimpressive and inconsistent. I decided I wanted to upgrade to a light direct drive extruder, so I bought a titan aero conversion kit. To avoid reducing the build volume too much I flipped the entire top plate upside down, to have the linear rails, belts assembly and mtotors on the top. I also inverted the x axis rail, to have that on the top too. The last mod I did was adding an auto leveling probe, to bypass the crappy and unreliable z endstop. I would like to stiffen up the bed frame to make it less wobbly and build some sort of cover to hide and protect the belts. But even as it is right now it's a great printer, and MUCH MUCH better than before.
Nice! The Sapphire Pro is SO similar it's almost the same printer. It also got panned heavily by reviewers so great to hear it's redeemable with a similar upgrade, though sounds like it was a fair bit more effort!
I don't really like that channels would have hold off covering the hemera because it had problems. I think it's as important if not more important to let us know on something is going wrong then when it's going right.
Speaking of Slice Engineering, would you consider making a new video with instructions on how to set the code for the control boards to use their very high temperature Thermistor? I bought their 450°C unit and my CR-10S, CR-10S5, Ender 5, Robo R2 and Tevo Tarantula Large/Dual units absolutely refuse to function with it even using the TH3D Studio firmware. The professors at University of Massachusetts Amherst find no problem with my code, TH3D Studio gave me very precise and detailed instructions for how to use that Thermistor with their firmware, my multimeter continuity tests show it is clearly connected properly, but I still receive nothing but no Thermistor indications on the screens. Perhaps you're doing so would make the problem I have obvious to me. Thanks for considering it at least, David
I'm confused as to why your non-cooled prints look so terrible... I've been printing purely in PETG for 5+ years now, and not once have I EVER used a cooling fan. Mind you, that's 100% simply because my printer is 100% custom self designed and built, and I could never manage to come up with a nice design for a fan mount/duct, so I've just never used one.. and I've never come into a situation where i've gone "man I should have used a fan on this print..." they've always just come out spectacular... seeing your PETG prints without cooling, seriously surprises the hell out of me..
I've had a Hemera (mine is still branded Hermes so it's a very early one) for over a year. I can't print TPU simply jams after a few layers. I have had several leaks (expensive) and loading filament is very awkward. I suspect I have a VERY early unit. BUT! it prints beautifully in PLA or PETG. Hate the "T" slots though and it's darned heavy!
I've fitted a Hemera to my Ender 5 plus and now it will print anything at default cura PLA speeds or faster , Using the default cura speed of 80mm/s I've printed TPU and PETG where before I would have had to really slow it down to 30mm/s for PETG and TPU just wouldn't print reliably. Since I've had the Hemera I've had just 1 jam which I think was cause by my dry box ? , I had to remove the heater or thermistor , and them unscrew the heat block and heat break , all while still connected to the printer FUN. Yes , I think printing at high speed does cause a lot of ringing with the extra weight , but for functional part that isn't a problem , just slow the print down a little and it will print like glass.
I used to get most my filament from Ridgid.ink. They stopped producing filament a few years ago now I think, not sure but I think 2019. Since I moved to buy from Dasfilament being closer by to buy from, cheaper and it being reccomended by Tom's3d. Haven't really regretted it but still would love to get my hands on that light blue PLA from ridgid.ink. They also had some pretty cool specialty filaments as well. A shame they stopped really.
Love the new bits for the music rig. Would love to see a video on your whole setup (equip, and what software you're using). Absolutely loved the piece you did for Joel.
Welcome to the club. My TRONXY 500x500x600 came with wrong cables, missing parts that I had to order to get correct parts before I could even start a print. Dual extruder cable was way too short for second extruder. When I got the longer cable it did not work until I copued the wiring colours from one to the other and swapping pin locations. Angry with TRONXY Quality Control but once I ironed out the bugs, make great PLA prints on glass bed. I had to switch to glass as the hot end burned a hole in the buildtech sheet. Trying to get setting right for PETG is another trial and error stringy mix. I see that every delivered 3D Printer is a starting point and each owner upgrades it as needed to get the best printer possible.
Silent stepper drivers! They got a fair few things right with the D01 which made it a good candidate. You can upgrade existing printers with them too if your drivers are removeable.
Nickel plated? They were not screwing around, eh? Nickel is what the blades of jet engines are made of, because it doesn't absorb heat easily (so doesn't expand much) and is rock-solid tough (those blades grind birds into mush without damage [except when multiple large birds end up there, when the airflow and fuel cannot pass easily enough nevermind burn]). It's why certain trumpets can play outrageously loud even with a small bore size like the Conn Constellation - Nickel and Nickel plated in some parts. It's so tough it's an outrageous pain in the backside to machine and bend to make such horns!
Been looking for an inexpensive 400x400 printer to get, Tronxy D5SA Pro looked promising until reading all the bad reviews and then I saw this video about the D01 and wondering if Tronxy is a brand to consider or avoid at this point? Big concern would be lack of firmware updates like marlin based boards see.
not an issue with this printer design, since the bed doesn't shuttle back and forth like on a cartesian printer such as the Ender 3, the only movement is the small vertical moves when changing Z, and weight is negligible for those assuming you have good bed support.
Hemera for me revealed not be trustworthy even after the fixes E3D sent me... having constant jams at particular highs like you experienced. Tried everything including changing fans. Substituted by a good old Bondtech in the end
When you get a roll of PLA that inexplicably prints best at 240C (No, I didn't accidentally order PETG, I checked the spool, packaging, and amazon listing)
@@MakersMuse I were so confused ordering 2.85 mm transparent PP when needing 1.75 mm. Or the description were changed. So send it back to Amazon. Now I am waiting again for a order, but from an austrian (!) not australian distributor. Also a prints fixing tool with hot tips.
UPDATE: It turned out I was being ignorant because I am new to 3D printing and blamed the filament far too quickly. The issues I was having (horrible under extrusion) quickly came back even at that high temperature and it turned out the hot end PTFE was not installed correctly. I reinstalled it and it fixed the issue, allowing me to make beautiful prints at a much more reasonable 210 degrees C. My machine is a Prusa mini+ and I am using Hatchbox PLA. If anyone has similar issues on this machine try following Prusa’s guide on replacing the hot end PTFE (except just reinstall the original PTFE unless it is wrecked obviously)
I know this video was a while ago - but I just had an experience that may explain your headless cats. Printing the cat with a silk type pla. I was using a JAXA heat box as the filament holder - I'd been printing some wood filled filament that I kept dry at 50C and just added the silk rather than switch holders. Every now and then the filament roll would jump - waking me up from my chair where I was watching with my eyes closed. Careful watching found that the roll would creep UP the forward roller which means the filament was unable to release from the spool. Only issue I could see is that one winding of the filament was against the adjacent filament for about an inch and then separated slightly - until the filament would release from the adjacent filament and the roll would slam back into position and unroll about half a winding before it stopped. I suspect the manufacturer wound the roll at temperature and the filament windings would occasionally stick together. Complaints about filament tangling is probably this problem - not tangling but sticking together. When I have the inclination I think I'll transfer the remaining filament from this roll to another roll and see if there are any hang-ups. But I thought you might want to know - a reason why one filament creates headless cats and another doesn't - basically the manufacturer lost control of the temperature during winding and it occasionally got too high. If it's during winding I'm willing to bet is kind'a periodical - explaining why the printing stopped at close to the same place.
@@MakersMuse I've been running a regular H2 on a Kay3D upgraded Ender 3 and I like it for the most part. Though if I remove filament too fast manually it tends to string and block the extruder, if I use the menu to unload filament it doesn't happen. Overall I like it enough to have bought the all metal version for the i3 mk3.5clone that I'm building (bear frame)
I'm a bit concerned with bed mount flex on this machine. It has pretty long shoulder so printing anything just a bit heavy will create enough load to tilt the bed... One possible way to reduce it is to move print head on the other side of the x/y carret and move bed closer to the Z axis.... Am I overthinking it? :)
