I might have to give up on the "RAM issues" motherboard 

RAM decoupling old tantalum caps. When you load the bus with more RAM chips, you get brown outs, because these old RAMs are quite power hungry. I think changing the tantalum will fix the issue.

The phantom "Game Port" and "Clock", and the lack of BASIC ROM indicates to me something weird is happening with the address lines - The BIOS is reading something from the Game Port address (201h) and the clock port and getting value, and is trying to read from the BASIC ROM address and not getting anything. And the second bank of RAM causing errors tells me it's at least an address between 256k and 512k (address lines 10 and 11 - 0x201 is also on line 11).

Imagine if a bad board went around from retro channel to retro channel until finally someone manages to solve it... would be a thriller...

Please don't take this the wrong way(!) but your frustration is our entertainment. Pure geekery at its finest. Thanks, Adrian 🙂

The detected gameport and clock really seem to me like the best indication of where things are going wrong, I really think some IO signals are ending up at the ram. This seems like a problem best solved with a logic analyser or at least a quad channel scope on those io and ram r/w lines and seeing if any are enabled at the same time. Might also try just disabling ram bank 2 on the dip switch but leaving the chips installed and seeing if that helped. If it has issues with just the chips installed but the bank disabled with the dipswitch then it might be a power issue as suggested by others. or an addressing problem that might be seen with multichannel channel scope on the cas/ras lines of both banks. It might also help to pull out some of the Bank2 chips till it starts working

Adrian, you are definitely on to something regarding the I/O addressing. The fact that the BIOS consistently detects a non-existing clock and a game port is a major hint that something is messed up with I/O, and the most likely explanation for the BIOS detecting these non-devices is that at least some I/O reads (and probably writes as well) gets redirected/mirrored to RAM. If I/O access gets mangled up with RAM access you'd expect some RAM addresses to work and others not, depending on which I/O addresses are in use. And since I/O addressing wraps around at $0400 on ISA systems, the issue would affect basically every memory bank. It's interesting to note that both the CGA card and the XT-IDE work, which you wouldn't expect if all I/O access was mangled. However, if the I/O issue is limited to certain onboard components using I/O, of which there are precious few on a PC XT, you'd get symptoms very much like the ones you're seeing. Unfortunately, the BIOS doesn't report exactly on which I/O addresses it believes its seeing a clock, but while XT clocks were non-standard and could use a wide range of ports, the game port sits squarely at hex 201. If you can somehow track down the component responsible for the phantom I/O devices, you'll probably also have found the reason why RAM errors are being reported. How about probing pin 28 (IO/M) on the CPU, and then trace the signal through the various chips on the board to see if either memory or I/O access is being selected when it shouldn't be? Perhaps a tiny program that just runs in a loop with interrupts disabled could help narrow it down?

Sorry if I missed that you've already looked at this, but check the HOLD line going into the CPU. This tells the CPU to wait while DMA is happening. If that isn't happening, the CPU memory accesses won't wait for DMA (like the dram refresh) and they'll occasionally conflict and cause crazy intermittent corruption like this.

Desolder and check under the edge connector where the corrosion was. There's a bunch of address lines there plus ale.

First time I've seen Adrian stumped by a hardware issue, yet still equally enjoyed the content. Thanks for sharing!

It is enjoyable to see you apply logic, schematics and a red pointer to develop a theory of attack to solve these retro problems.

If your cameras are running out of battery, I suggest picking up some dummy batteries. They're usually USB powered and most cameras have some kind of hole/slot in the door so you can hook them up to power with the battery door closed, and you can then run the cameras indefinitely on a bench setup like this. As a secondary benefit, because you're not discharging a lithium ion battery inside the camera housing, they tend to stay a bit cooler so if you ever have overheating problems recording for long time spans, dummy batteries can help somewhat to get longer recordings before the camera needs to cool off.

The "thinks it's warm starting" issue is interesting. The process behind it is essentially that there's a "magic word" written to a specific location in RAM. I think something like 0x55AA or 0xAA55 (some on/off bit combo) and if that 2-byte value is present during start, it is considered a "warm start". if not, it's a cold start. After booting, the value is put into the location, so as long as the RAM holds it's values between boots, it is considered "warm start". To "software cold boot" you first have to clear that magic bytes an then jump to the init-vector of the BIOS.

I thoroughly enjoyed this video while swapping about 100 SMD capacitors on a board. Kind of therapeutic :) I love the in-depth discussion, I really look forward to a solution though I appreciate it might not be the case of course, so no pressure!

I admire your tenacity in trying to resolve this problem.

i watched the complete Episode without skipping. I would do it for a second one. I love how the pathes are leading into dead ends. that is quite a learning experience to watch. My bets are on "5v rail ripple"

*** 3 Years Later *** Adrian robbing the 25th part from his 'parts board'... "Oh! That's what it was!"

To refresh a DRAM, it is not necessary to run through every address. A whole column of bits is refreshed at once, so it is only necessary to cycle through all the row addresses. So with every refresh operation, one of the rows is selected by the adddress lines and the row-address-strobe line is toggled. in a 41256, only 256 rows need to be refreshed every 4ms.

I noticed the added/removed peripherals in the last video, but I forgot to leave a comment! I love your videos!

The 24S10 in the original XT is a PROM that maps address ranges to RAS lines based on the configuration DIP switch settings. The one XT clone I have used the same chip but only uses two locations in the whole PROM for switching between 256k/640k, which is selected by a jumper. That PAL is probably just doing the same job in this system. If it has any floating pins, it could be messing up the RAS lines by suddenly activating the wrong RAM bank. Another possibility is a marginal delay line screwing up the RAS/CAS timing.

The second bank causing problems makes me think there's some cross talk between CAS lines for the two banks, or a some other line and the cas line for the second bank... Like some junk between pins or something

Day in the life of a C64 repair tech! If we had to work on the board over half an hour, it was a board swap, the most expensive option. We cured more than we didn’t. Some were obvious (PLA), but some made no sense whatsoever. Gremlins!

If it were me, I'd take a good hard look at the sockets. I'd also be taking a long look at the capacitors in the memory bank. If you have an ESR meter I think it would be interesting to see how many of the capacitors in the memory bank are different. Another thought is to do a close inspection of the solder joints under a microscope if you have one.

Measure VCC on the various RAM chips, look for noise. Compare with one bank vs multiple installed. Swap tantalums, some of them might be open.

Refresh is initiated by strobing a row address into the DRAM using RAS. That causes the DRAM to latch an entire row, which then gets written back at the end of the cycle. CAS isn't necessary unless you then want to read or write a column, so a refresh is basically an access cycle without the access. This is usually known as "RAS only" refresh. Newer DRAMs can also do what is called a "CAS before RAS" refresh whereby strobing CAS before then strobing RAS causes the DRAM to refresh a row based on an internal row counter. In this mode you don't have to supply a row address because the DRAM takes care of that detail itself.

The evergreen, bulletproof way to check if your PC has hung is by seeing if the caps, numlock or scroll lock keys are still responding. If they won't turn on or off, the sucker is hard-locked.

These videos are extremely helpful. Your methodical approach and your explanations help a lot on understanding how these circuits work. I am in an unfortunate situation where I soldered together an Amiga 4000 using a brand new PCB and a mix of brand new parts and NOS for the most exotic bits. The computer boots, but have some stability issues and show graphical problems (and eventually freeze) when scrolling graphics happen. These videos have been of great value to me in order to understand and pinpoint possible culprits. Hopefully I will get to the bottom of my problems thanks to you sharing your experience and knowledge, Adrian!

At the moment, I'm in the ball court with the people who are saying that the tantalum capacitors designed to suppress noise may be the main problem. If they've gone low or otherwise failed, there may be switching noise causing problems. What I'd try would be to temporarily solder on some extra bypass capacitors (especially near the RAM) and see if that makes a difference. If not, you've only wasted a little time. If it improves things, then you've likely found the problem. EDIT: Could it be that the PSU you're using for that older board isn't supplying sufficient current on the 5V line? Maybe those chips are taking more current than more modern chips would? EDIT2: If the problem is insufficient power to run the memory, then I'd be looking for a pattern that the more hardware is both connected and doing something, the more likely it is for the RAM to give errors, although to be fair, that could also be a problem with the bypass capacitors. EDIT3: Isn't the LS243 merely a buffer while the LS245 is a latch? What if someone put the wrong chip into the board, substituting a 245 for a 243? If that's so, the 245 could still have its output pins enabled instead of sending them to "high impedance" mode once the input has ceased. I'd be inclined to try putting a 243 in that socket and see if that has any effect on the problem. And you did say that the "enable" pin was tied active, so that supports my theory. EDIT4: The errors you're getting only cause me to be even more suspicious that the 245 is entirely the wrong chip in that location and it should be substituted for a 243. 47:00 is the one, in case you're lost. EDIT5: NM, my error. Both are bus transceivers, but the 243 is 4-bit and the 245 is 8-bit. My bad. I still suggest that the problem is insufficient switching noise suppression.

Just a silly off the wall suggestion. Continuity check on the DIP switches to see if they are bad. I know it's a long shot.

It seems likely that whatever is causing your phantom game and clock port is also causing the RAM and parity errors. I dug into the Turbo XT BIOS source a bit after watching this episode. Both the game port and clock detection code work by reading an I/O device via the "in" instruction. To check for the game port, for example, the BIOS reads from the I/O device at 201h 100 times. If it ever gets something other than 0xFF it decides that a game port is present. Interestingly, the CPU talking to an I/O device is nearly identical to talking to memory. The main difference between the two is the behavior of pin 28 - IO/M. It's high for an IO operation and low for a memory operation. That tells me that whatever is misbehaving on that board is misbehaving for both memory and IO operations and that whatever it is fails consistently when checking for the game port or clock. The code to check for the clock is more interesting. It checks for a clock at 2C0h, 240h, and 340h, but it only checks each ONCE. That would imply a consistent failure if the clock is always detected. Could you maybe have a bad CPU? Or something is shorting pin 28 on the CPU to ground? I'm also suspicious about the machine often doing a warm boot after a power cycle.

Try Ruud's Test ROM..the updated one on minus zero degrees. It's quite comprehensive and still being actively updated.

An MCL86+ in place of the CPU could perform focused read-write tests on the DRAM for both your motherboard and ISA card.

Using a two channel oscilloscope allows you to focus in on different parts of the memory cycles. For example, connect one channel to the refresh DMA enable and trigger the scope from that, and use the other channel to examine the data, address and chip select signals while the DMA enable is active.

Well, sharing a failed project characterises you as a great youtuber imho.

Infrared Camera to see what gets hotter than it should. I was also thinking the mainboard may have a dry joint that needs to be reflowed. Interesting problem. Going away from it to do something else works for me too. It gets processed subconsciously and then goes to the project with a fresh eye. Thanks.

Adrian, at the start of the video, I was wondering if the rise/fall time of the signals were fast enough. At about 1:07:56 (give or take) you mention the resistors for the multiplexers for the DRAM. From what I can see on my shoe-phone, they look like 220R or 330R resistors. Now, I am not sure if they are limiting current or pulling the signal down (with TTL logic I'd be more willing to put my money on pulling the signal, especially given the number of connected ICs). 220/330R is a pretty hard pull. If one of those resistors went open or high(er) resistance the signal might look more like a capacitor curve when zoomed in on the scope but still look reasonable when zoomed out. I do hope to see a follow-up when you can clear your head. Thank you!!!

One thing I think this video demonstrates is why deeper troubleshooting like this went the way of the dodo for many people once we hit the PC era. The issues are complex and difficult to trace out, and once PC parts became commodity, it just wasn't worth it anymore precisely because of how complex it can be to figure out the exact issue. I will echo others here that this is starting to look more and more like it is potentially related to the game port and clock showing up as enumerated and or there's a problem with the board with noise, possibly via the capacitors and or resistors. I'm very hesitant to jump to recapping, I think it's far over suggested in general, but in this case It may actually be time for a recap; tantalum caps are known for going bad on this era of motherboard, and this may be an early indication.

Double check the power on those chips. I have had a failing cap on a board cause the occasional power drop giving me the wildest of random issues.

I have no clue about anything computer. I found you channel 8 months ago and it is so interesting. Your mannerism, engagement with the audience, knowledge on all the stuff you’ve shown, ability to diagnose, and much more. It’s all very engaging and both your channels are amazing! All that said, have you tried that dip switch selector down by the bios? It’s not that far from where the corrosion and leaky battery was. Maybe something leaked into it while in the upright position and the switch is bad? Allowing voltage crossover inside of it? Again, I know nothing about computers and their components. And this is just an outside look. Maybe it’s possible or maybe I’m way off base.

Hey, I finally got one of those little oscilloscopes, except it was "Zotek" brand, and it's great! I had an analog 1990s-era scope and it's completely primitive in comparison. Mostly I needed a frequency counter too for an old 6802 board that I've been trying to get working, and it's good to have a digital scope now, because they do that.

You need a scope with a separate channel / trigger input so you can trigger on a chip select or enable signal. Then probing the data bus will be synchronized to those types of bus cycles.

The machine spirit is with you Adrian

I enjoy the deep dives, some of these old computers really do have gremlins

you'll need to check around all signals and chips involved with ram and io selection, i think, not just 'buffers' , theres a lot of gates in there as well, it only needs one output to be weak at pull down to cause issues, you may have to fully socket it! it'd then be useful for other testing purposes if you can sort it eventually 😁

I think it worth checking how POST detects clock and game port. Maybe fixing problem from that lead are easier? I suspect I/O can leaks into memory but only in specific conditions?

With a single bank installed you get no errors, so the data buffering, address multiplexing and refresh work fine. With two banks everything breaks down. That could be due to too high loading on the buffers driving the RAM chips, but I would rule that out as it would indicate a very marginal design (would never be able to cope with four banks of RAM). My guess is that there is a problem with the RAS and CAS lines going to the individual banks. If those are decoded incorrectly or have flakey connections on the board (or even have shorts to ground, VCC or other lines), the errors you see are totally what I expect to happen. Happy debugging!

Maybe take a different angle, use cold spray/put the board in the freezer to see if the issue temperaruly is resolved. Then use cold spray to smaller areas until you've found the culprit. Same can be done with heat.

Adrian, @10:47 I see a flip flop there just above your hand, that would certainly be a suspect, in my experience the most common failures of active devices in the gear I fix (not computers) is op-amps, followed by flip flops... so whenever I see a flip flop attached to a section that is misbehaving, that is a part I will look very closely at.

Just a thought, check resistance packs, for pull up and down and in between. It has been seen before that resistance breaks and has strange errors.

All this says to me that the ram is struggling to operate at the clock speed of the board. Ram in that day could be too slow OR too fast for the board. Stuff like what you're seeing happened to me, but it was on a 386sx40 ... which ran screaming fast but only had a 16bit bus... and it was difficult to expand the board memory, and I eventually gave up and just used 8 or 16 bit expansion buss memory, which killed the system speed, but let me run bigger programs. But .... find -150 memory (I think), not -120 ... it appears the board has mixed -150 ms (or is it us) and -120ms chips. that screams smoking gun.

I suggest you use the Trigger funtion of the oscilloscope (may need a better one than the handheld.. maybe your NI one). With it, you can trigger on the DMA pulse, for example, and see what other signals line up with it.

Could the jumper pads by the PAL be selecting 64K/256K DIMMS for each bank of RAM? Does this board support 1 MByte RAM installed? 🙂 Alternatively have you upset the Sophons in aome way to cause them to mess with your diagnostics? 😁

Hey, a look at the slot connectors for pins that are across from each other but are very close. The pins can get close and short. If they look okay, check for corrosion from the leaked clock card battery around the slots; corrosion can partially conduct and cause weird problems.

@1:07:06 it looks to me to have some pulses that are at about 2V level, these might be causing issues as they are right at the threshold of being a 0 or a 1.

Serious Deja vu! I lived this exact experience with a DTK non-turbo motherboard about two years ago. There is a long story, but it turned out to be a RAS/CAS/Address timing issue. There is a delay line that separates the CAS time from the RAS that could be the problem, but I always see this component soldered in. In desperation, I tried swapping it with one from another board and that was not my problem. Some DTK boards use 74S157 for address multiplexing whereas IBM uses 74LS158. A difference between these is propagation delay. Maybe the multiplexers are failing or are the wrong ones. Why would the “wrong” chips be in there? That’s part of the long story. In the end, I swapped ‘S157 for ‘LS158 (or other way around, can’t recall) and that board has been running ever since.

Most people who work in repairs of any kind come across faults that refuse to be repaired. Im a mechanic by Trade I can think of two cars that we never resolved, in one was my own car that recused to idle. Another became the workshop car that wound run rough at low RPM but ran fine at high rpm…

I took a look at the BIOS source code. It looks like the game port is detected by probing the port 0x201 100 times. If a value other than 0xFF (the floating data bus pulled up) appears at least once, it declares the port available. So, looks like one of the data bits is not being pulled high on I/O accesses. A cracked pull-up resistor array, possibly? A cracked/cold solder joint? Or a bus conflict of some kind? You could try replacing the 100-times loop in the BIOS with an infinite one and then probe the data bus with the oscilloscope to see what the bit patterns for D0...D7 look like.

It could be flaky tantalum caps like others have said, but they more often fail short and any shorts would take down the system entirely. It isn't impossible to have a marginal tantalum cap, but that is extremely rare. Testing for that wouldn't be easy though. However, to me all of the symptoms so far points to a bank select issue between the RAM banks. Almost like either it is selecting banks at the wrong time or multiple banks at once, but we would expect to see conflicts on the RAM data bus on the scope if it were selecting multiple banks. It is quite possible there is a poor sync when bank selection is happening leading to some overlap. The DRAM refresh then could be selecting banks when refreshing, but CPU RAM access tries to get back to the bank it was looking at, but due to addressing slew it didn't switch in time. The DMA might not be affected, but as soon as the CPU tries to see its RAM it is accessing the wrong place for a fraction of time. Might not be noticeable on the scope if that were the case and it would look like gradual or random corruption of RAM.

I would focus on why the system is showing a clock and a game port when none exists. I think that might be a better indication of what is really going on

you can always go back to basic if anything fails pull any chip out and socket it, test connections between chips for shorts between traces, check capacitors next to ram chips in the failing row. check pulup resistors and resistor latices for breaks, because let's be honest if there is no problem with silicon, pcb or pasives becoming more and more suspect, especially tantalum caps and chiped insolation i had a nes clone once that i wasn't able to diagnose, every chip was good, every trace was conducting point to point where it should and the only problem was a bit of crud under the cart socket partially shorting reset line to one of the data lines. i missed it so many times it is embarysing. so check every solder point visually if any crud isn't growing there connecting things it shouldn't too. and good luck finding the actual fault

There were a couple of times you mentioned the voltages being a little low on the scope. If one of those chips is borderline a little low might be a little too low?

There comes a point where it's best to cut one's losses, save what can be, and move on. There's no guarantee that the board won't suddenly start working after replacing a marginal part, only to refuse to work the next time you power it up.

Im thinking the issue here is that the wrong bank of RAM is being selected or both banks at the same time. Im assuming the PAL is replacing the chips that generate the RAS/CAS lines for specific banks of RAM. It probably also generates the CE liines for the ROMs. Given the PAL swap doesn't make any difference, it would be worth checking the inputs to the PALs to see if there are any bad signals there. I'd look at the IO/M- line from the CPU as if thats not worling reliably then this could explain why its finding the serial ports etc and not able to see the BASIC ROMs What happens if you try and read the BASIC ROMs using DEBUG, as if something else shows up instead of the BASIC code then this would point you in the right direction. Have you checked for continuity between the RAS/CAS lines as if there is a short/some resistance, then signals could be passing between them ie between bank 0 and bank 1 due to damaged trace/a blob of solder in the qrong place.

I'm curious if the '92 OKI bus controller IC ran cooler than the '83 NEC? And ya, I also wondered if some of those tantalum's are flaky... at least compare them with an ESR meter in-circuit? But thanks as always!

@adriansdigitalbasement2 Great video and thank you for sharing! As far as the RAM issue. Since it seems to have worked when you had only 1 bank installed, but stopped when you added the second bank. What about the bank selection circuit goes? Could multiple banks being selected at the same time causing a buss conflict?

on a side note, why run with battery, when you can be on wall socket, for the camera. or a large power bank if you really need to be off the grid. if it gets replicated to all other chips then the chip might be through shorted, ie high current burned, no logic action. omg contact error. reseating memory chips etc. lol. a ghost in the shell, a non-seen bug. maybe the upper memory sockets are broken.

I'd be checking the chip selects (CAS). Each bank should have one, likely from the PAL. May have a short even.

may i ask a stupid question? if you start to take out the decoupling capacitors from a working motherboard what problems are going to manifest and at what number of missing caps... i'm guessing unstability and random crashes... (this is a reverse troubleshooting or an "experiment" for "experience")

I hope you are reading all the comments. I don't know if you already fixed the stubborn MB, but I know from my bad experience with the very old motherboards that they were bad copies with only two SIDED PCBs and not MULTILAYER. As result they sometimes worked only in the case when installed over a ground plane. Is it the case?

I your system thinks it's warm sarting and warm starting requires certain keys to be pressed, there may be some issue with the keyboard circuit (or with the circuit responsible to turn that key press combination into a "warm start" signal).

To test the system if it's locked up press the caps lock or num lock and see if the light turns on and off. If the system is locked up. It can not operate the light for the num and caps lock light

Power filtering issues or maybe address decoder issues are worth to be checked.

As you seemed to have excluded the decoding circuit for RAS and CAS lines, my experience says that when you take parts off like cards or memory and all works and when you put things begin to break that the power supply is not supporting what is needed. As your workbench probably has a power supply that is way powerful than necessary and the other board works, I would recap all this board.

Maybe some decoupling cap issue's? What does the 5v supply line look like around the drams in terms of noise?

What is that little O-scope you're using? I'd love to have one.

Voting along with all the other comments about the pull-up/down resistors or capacitors and their condition. Both could decide to become different suddenly after working fine forever and injure the reaction times of DMA and drive strength of signals. Also having the second bank installed caused the problem to return which alludes to something doesn't like the extra load (out of spec).

Is it time for a logic analyzer yet? It will allow you to trigger on a select line while watching other lines. Don’t need a HP one - can get something like a Hantek 4032L cheaply enough.

I have a XT clone board with massive RAM problems too, I could never figure it out.

One thing that bothered me is when you tested the suspect board with the known-good DMA controller chip at around 45:30ish. If you have multiple hard-to-separate issues, this probably doesn't tell you much. If the suspect board doesn't work with the known-good chip, in principle that just tells you you still have a problem on the suspect board - it doesn't tell you that the suspect chip is good. To know if the suspect chip is working, test it in the known-good board, so that it's the only suspect component in the test. If you prove the suspect chip bad, you still need to try the board with the known-good chip to try to diagnose remaining problems, but you know better than to put the now known-bad chip back in the board. I understand things will normally go faster if you just test the known-good chip in the suspect board, and even if there are other problems on the board, usually the change of chips will change the behaviour of the board. I just think maybe this is a particular special case where maybe two or more components involved in RAM refresh have subtle problems that are each causing similar symptoms, so there isn't necessarily an obvious change of behaviour by replacing any one component.

I wonder if there is an issue with the controller that works the higher address lines. Look at the address and data lines that work above 256K. Perhaps there is an issue with one of the address or data lines that works them. Also the one character in the memory test that was purple when all the others were white could also be a clue that it may be using that address line for that are of the video RAM, but not the others.

Since there was battery corrosion at some point, it may have corrosion that grew over time and is probably hidden.

During refresh you don't actually read every address in ram. Dram has both column and row addresses, and you only spit out one of these, which will (during a refresh cycle) refresh every row in a column, or every column in a row. No actual data is spit out and read by the processor, so if you can refresh ALL of the memory banks at the same time. The DMA controller is providing up to 256 different row or column address, and then cycles over. This is how the DMA controller inside of the Z80 CPU worked (well, it only handled 128 row or column addresses, having only a 7 bit R counter.)

Bypass caps on the RAM chips? (The chips themselves might be good, but the power to them might not be...)

It's amazing to compare this Intel/IBM system design from 1981 to a contemporary 6502 design from the same time period.

I don't like it too when a computers doesn't work. I have two (same type) old computers. One of them is working. In the non-working computer, two ic's, both good, power is good, no shorts on missing connection. On the connection between those two ic's, no signal where the working has one. All other signals on the two ic's are good. Strange.

As I told in previous video comments - concentrate on clock and game port wrongly detected. You do have source code for BIOS , so just check in the code to see how it detects clock and game port presence this might give you a hint on which lines, ports or something give wrong signals

35:12 "Ooh, that socket's a little bit damaged, there..." when you went and pulled the parity chip. Did you replace the socket? Did you check the other RAM sockets for damage? You never said, if so. Hmmmmm... ;3

Have you had a look at the motherboard under a microscope to see if there is a very thin hair solder growth causing it to bridge and stop the RAM from functioning correctly and causing the RAM problems. I've seen solder joins when they get warm they develop a very thin hair like growth that always end up connecting to another solder joint on the motherboard. Always worth a check to see if that's the problem.

🎶🎶Noone knows what it's like to be the bad RAM....🎶🎶🎶😁

Here's a weird thought; it's possible to add RAM to XT-class machines with an ISA card, right? What happens if you put in the first 256kB on the motherboard (which works) and then add additional RAM on an ISA card instead of on the motherboard? Trying with an "old school" card with the classic small DRAM DIPs vs the "modern" versions of these cards that pack all the RAM into a single SRAM chip (which would load the whole system less) might be instructive too.

@ 1:59 I wonder why those Basic rom chips are out of order like that? Could have sworn I seen them in some other order.. yeah I must be getting old.. BTW.. Have yo all checked the caps "The ceramic ones" near the ram? what with the Extra Ram ergo extra noise

It's screaming "Power supply trouble". Maybe there is a faulty decoupling capacitor on the motherboard. It just about works, until you add more power-hungry chips and then it becomes unreliable.

On the other video I got the feeling about the bios chips ( the basic ones ), I know they get disable if not in use but they can be on the bus, not all the time but perhaps can they be enable all the time. I'm talking about the basic ones because they do not show up (not detected), something strange about that bios ones, try to remove them just to check

It is funny to see a machine with a BIOS dated from 2018 booting into a DOS dated 1994.

Why does it work on ROMs? I have a stupid answer - ROMs don’t use refresh… My background is 100% on static RAM systems, but I still have got weary about timing issues in any PAL or Gal treatises. The more chips in a chain, the more delay accumulates. But I also have been worried about the small power supply not being adequate with a massive set of memory chip being added. Finally, it is my understanding that some, if not most (?) chips slow down with reduced supply voltage. Looking at just one signal on the scope misses all timing conflicts is also a concern in my opinion. For what all this rambling is worth…

Could be a setup time issue with DRAM. You could check CAS rising edge to stable data time on the scope. Each motherboard has slightly different timing, so issue may not show up on all motherboards. Second bank data line load would make the issue worse, perhaps. You may need a faster speed grade of the DRAM chips.

This honestly stinks of a power supply issue of some kind. Either the PSU is not outputting a high enough level and the added RAM is soaking up too much, or there's a bad set of capacitors (or capacitors are underpowered) causing the RAM to misbehave. IT's possible you caught c failing capacitor *just* as it started to fail, and it fell *just* below the tolerance levels for the RAM to operate nominally.

but what about the serial and clock installed? :) loving this series. Thank you Adrian

Hi Adrian, I don't think it's a bad chip problem, I guess it's a problem with a trace, maybe some tiny corrosion, it could be the socket you installed or something. However I think you should move on, sometimes we win sometimes we don't. Just my 2 cents, be safe.

Hi Adrain, I have started ordering the parts to build one of you 8Bit ISA ram cards but have been unable to find the value for the resistor network. Can you tell me what the resistance value should be?

@37:40 just because you replaced the chip doesn't mean the signals are OK, it could easily be a corroded via or through hole which is breaking the connection, I would be tracing directly from the driver pins to each pin of the DRAM.