@@centaurixonbro she literally said in the title “i didnt know this is how windshields were changed” bruh i think most people know how they change windshields like you must live under a rocj or something lady. Cringe af
@@MayorMcheese12 Naa not everyone knows man. Remeber many people drop of their cars at glas business and later come to get car and than window is in looong time already. So many dont know, some just dont care they pay for the job to be done thats that. Others like you and me are the type of people that like to know how things work and how certain jobs are done.
@@MayorMcheese12you would think, but I once watched a woman pump gasoline in her husband's diesel truck. If can't figure out that a diesel truck takes diesel do you really expect them to know how a windshield is replaced?
Lol bloody clowns man he only showing how to apply sica glue to it so I guess he drove the car like that and just left the glued windshield right there
Windshields used to be held in place by a rubber gasket that fit around the edge of the glass. When airbags were introduced, when deployed, they would often blow the windshield completely out of the car, leaving the occupants subject to being ejected from within the vehicle. The answer was to use urethane-based adhesive, to glue the windshield much more securely into place. There was a steep learning curve for the auto glass technicians as they perfected the removal & replacement tools & techniques involved with the new system.
Nothing to do with airbags, A: during a collision a bonded in screen is less likely to fly out, B: a windshield is unlikely to shatter into dangerous pieces and fall into the cabin C: Windshields then became an extra piece of the structure for a car. Many cars had bonded in screens before airbags became mainstream.
You can apply to windshield or to body both have pros and cons. A good tech knows when to use each method. Biggest issue with windshield application is when the adhesive is applied to the glass in the wrong position. Really sucks to remove from the interior of the vehicle because the urethane missed the pinchweld.
@@colbysmith2629 What are you even saying? Benefit of the doubt you speak a different version of Native locationally influenced English or it's a second language. In Texas it's barely a Colloquialism. It's a caulkgun applying caulk. Otherwise you are going to be a very frustrated customer wasting a lot of gas trying to find what's easy to find. 🤷♂️ Extractor...sure. But they are going to look at you like your speaking Klingon. It's also a "caulkgun". What kind of caulk? Appropriate answer is "Automotive Windshield Sealant".
The creation of these videos is likely where you're anxiety started then. It's like crack. Once you have it, you don't feel normal without it. You should try quitting. You'd be a stronger person.
Part of why most guys don't choose this for a DIY job. It's not rocket science, and yet without proper experience and application your windshield will otherwise leak. Looks like good work and this is coming from the RU-vid Warrior.
@timothyabelovsky2235 exact same. I feel it's a little different for those tho, as they are basically flat glass and can be done perfectly with handset, if done by someone experienced.
I can’t confirm what you’ve said is true but what I can confirm is that the primer is applied to the glass like this in numerous manufacturers assembly lines. As a lean manufacturing engineer who’s worked in multiple assembly lines they have big robots which apply the primer to the glass autonomously without human error. Doing this on a moving line would mean the robotic arms would have to move with the line for precision and doing so would be very expensive.
@AZ-zn9lg it’s insurance that sets the price for calibration of the camera in the windshield. That’s a fixed price depending on what insurance company you have. All new cars have lane departure cameras and are required by law to be recalibrated after a replacement. Big companies hire kids that don’t know what they are doing. I have as much experience as someone that has worked for safelite for 50 years. I do 10X more jobs. Factory set glass isn’t as good as a replaced glass by a pro.
I changed windshields for many years and we always shot urethane on the body of the vehicle, that way u could hold and maneuver the windshield and get it right in the sweet spot.
@@bmulsh2752 yeah I mainly changed windshields in semis and box trucks. Changed cars every once in a while. I'd still shoot the urethane on the body even with cars. I did gasket set on volvos and cascadias too. I did it back when I was younger. I'm too old to be jumping on and off semis all day lol. I do miss it though.
@Justin Noel ah yes, I remember doing those windshields too. Did a lot of motorhome windshields as well. The old rope in gasket sets were tricks sometimes.
@@bmulsh2752 yeah I did a bus windshield once. You have to take a bunch of parts off before you can get to the windshield on a bus lol. With volvo semis we would extract the old windshield, take the old gasket off, check it to make sure it was clear of debris, put it on the new windshield and wrap the rope around it. Pop it in the hole and pull the rope to set the gasket. Always clean the windshield when finished. We were hitting like 16-17 jobs a day. We traveled all throughout central Florida replacing em.
I did auto glass for a few years(2015-2018) and they always told us to shoot the glass and I refused. Luckily I was a mobile tech and rarely had warranties so I would just shoot the body and know it was a solid seal with minal adjustments after setting the glass
I can’t confirm what you’ve said is true but what I can confirm is that the primer is applied to the glass like this in numerous manufacturers assembly lines. As a lean manufacturing engineer who’s worked in multiple assembly lines they have big robots which apply the primer to the glass autonomously without human error. Doing this on a moving line would mean the robotic arms would have to move with the line for precision and doing so would be very expensive.
@@terrydoherty6696 - thats in an assembly line! But in the field,, you have one primer for the glass and another for the metal on the car because you have to scrape the old urethane off and that leaves scratches on the metal which will rust if you do not prime it! But what I was talking about is most people put the urethane on top of the fresh primer on the metal of the car, not on the glass. But hey everybody has their own way and if it works for you, that is all that matters!
@@jiriprachar1145 what factory service manual? Ive been doing this for 36 years and have NEVER seen nor heard of anyone putting the sealant on the glass!
This is what I do over 23 years I really like it and if there is small vehicle, I can install the windshields by myself without any device or help. I am going to be 57 next year actually this year they’re all piece of cake.
Safélite Auto Glass bought out a bunch of little guys and now they don't ha e enough techs to handle the Boston metro área or south shore into R.I. área. Bought out most of the Little Guys and can't even manage to keep there techs. Lol
I have a question for you, some of what I think is this adhesive that goes btwn my windshield & sun roof comes off when it's cold out (on the exterior of the car roof). What is that black strip called? & if possible, how do I go about fix that myself or getting it fixed? Unless the weatherstripping has gotten really bad (brittle/old/expanding up above the roof to the point where it's no longer recognizable as weatherstripping, I don't think it's that)
Mobile job! I wonder if they primered the pinch weld as well. We rarely urethaned the windshield, harder to handle cleanly. I’d love to see the install technique.
For those saying the bead is too close to the edge, realize he's trying to get that seal as far out as possible. Otherwise you get a cavity that can form, collect dirt (which means moisture) and have a higher chance to rot the frame later on.
Different model cars have different applications. Typically, if you run a bead of glue that close to the edge of the glass, it can actually wrap around the windshield when pressed in and make the removal process a nightmare if it ever needs changed again. So, if you're removing a windshield installed by the factory, you can look at where the old bead was run. And if it had a small gap off the edge from the factory, you'll want a similar gap. Too close to the edge and you'll get that unwanted wrap-around. Too far from the edge and you'll ooze into the interior. You also want to take a close look at the thickness of the bead that was left on the body (pinchweld) to see how deep you want to cut the "V" in the caulking (Urethane) tip. Typically, 1/4" taller than the original bead to allow for it to make good contact, and smoosh to the correct thickness once pressed in. And there are very few applications where it's best to run the bead directly on the glass. Typically, I prefer to run it directly on the body of the vehicle, directly overtop the old bead. I use the edge of the body to guide the caulk tip to keep my bead on track. And don't press the windshield in too hard or you'll get that ooze I was talking about, as well as make the next removal unnecessarily difficult.
@@jasonhohman7702 Thankyou for the detailed response! I mostly do sheet metal work on the cars, so you can imagine how I feel about window frames being collection points.
Running on the glass is personal preference in my opinion. That far out (using the edge of the glass) is definitely not suitable on vehicles where there is no mounding. Just flush glazed, and a finished edge on the glass. Like a Volkswagen or a newer Jeep. If u look, u will see a nicely painted body and the edge of the glass about 1/8” inch space between body and glass. This technology would be a disaster! Imagine a white colored car. Now picture this guy running glue right to the edge. Sets the glass… and now u see the urethane sticking out of the sight line against a white paint job! Not so nice! Suddenly this guy who ran such a beautiful bead… looks incompetent and unprofessional. Also depending on what type of glue he is using, he can set and just allow the weight of the glass to settle the bead, or he pushes the glass into the bead… Sometimes is the best place to run it, sometimes the worst place to run it! Just because he runs a nice bead, don’t mean he a great installer. But I’d be willing to bet, he’s good… like me!
This looks like somebody who is taught properly by someone who knew what they were doing but also sometimes skilled workers are just that skilled because they figure out the right way to do things.
@@mikeswope366 I worked in the glass cell of a Chrysler/ Dodge plant decking the rear sail panel on the Magnum by hand. Having the sealer at the right temperature helps.
@@мыидёмквам-э7х😂в России эта технология больше 20 лет , я 17 лет у дилера Тойота и так же во многих включая ВаЗ. Для начала учитесь и просвящайтесь и не брешите на уши людям. Удачи в новых познаниях!
Back when I was in the Auto Sales Industry I would watch our glass and paint guys work. I was always amazed. All Techs (Mechanics, Glass, Paint) are the unsung heroes. Us suit guys were just the pretty faces to sell them 😂
@@davidstegne3036 That's a bulk gun. I've shot a lot of polyurethane from bulk guns (it's always 2 part that you have to mix), but I've never seen windshield urethane in bulk. Only in the regular tubes.
@@jamesbarca7229it's actually a sausage gun, I have the same one. Sausages carry more material than cartridges, but less than a bulk container (obviously). You can't really do bulk urethane unless you are a dedicated windshield shop that's always busy, or an auto manufacturer, because it cures when unsealed too quickly. Bulk urethane comes in barrels and you need a special machine for it, can't really use a handheld bulk gun for it as it's way too thick to draw into the gun.
Suit guys are just WAY over paid customer service. Serve only one purpose and have no clue what their selling! And no experience/education on the services they offer. In my opinion, you should MUST be a mechanic/tech before a salesman! That would prevent a bunch of broken promises with the customer and also prevent atleast a 3rd of the lawsuits.
Most these people in here claiming they body bead just showing how little they know. This was good intell the joint should of came on top to join not the double bead. That's the older way to make a joint.
The reason it's applied to the windshield, because less joints are made,thus reducing leakage.When applied to the body more joints are made,swapping from left to right especially in the centre top.
Better to apply to the pinchweld in most instances, some require intricate and precise placement of the bead that's near impossible to replicate on the glass. Take the old bubbly Ford Thunderbird for instance. Bottom bead snakes around like the Nile. Source: I own a glass shop.
I was taught to put the urethane on the frame not the window. How do you know the frame is lined up or has enough to fit tight? I don't think that is a good way.
Yeah, whomever trained him did it wrong. If you put the sealant on the screen and get it wrong it's a huge mess. You put the sealant on the car because that way the bond is stronger and less mess. That cut in the nozzle also looks too deep and too much its going to cause issues.
@@iHelpSolveIt i know nothing about the subject, however it seems like it's way safer putting a windshield to a frame with sealant than putting a windshield with sealant to a frame. More risk to mess up for no gain
It's designed to crack and be replaced and insurance almost always covers it. So it's fairly inexpensive compared to other parts in the car that don't break very often and are hard to find replacements for.
Right around the frit band. Used to work at Safelite Auto. Start at the bottom so theres no water leaks from rain or carwash come all way around and go past start point so you can smooth and close the gap for no wind noise. What i used to do with the molding on top was put it on activate, prime it then run a thin bead and smooth it let it dry so it wouldnt fly off down the road later. Nice bead my guy
@@Bhatt_Holecaulk is a silicone adhesive/sealant that is used in many trades but mainly in plumbing. You'll find caulk anywhere there is water in your house unless it's done wrong lol
Supercar blondie is/was an Aussie so she should know its "windscreen" and that is not replacing, removing, reviewing or breaking a windscreen or windshield!
@@gjsrkybecause the bead was at the right height, the top of the bead was at a point, and the urethane was applied in the correct location to seal the glass perfectly to the body of the car. Yes, I have auto glass experience
@@Pandora_369 40 year auto technician. I say it aint done correctly, till its done... I have set head gaskets on an engine block beautifully... It wasn't done correctly, until I finished the job and confirmed the repair...
Always apply the adhesive to the car itself, not on the new windshield. The bead should always match the old glue, and if you don't apply it on the car itself you might miss it and it won't hold and you might end up having a leaking windscreen if you're unlucky 🤷🏼♂️
@@dougtibbetts857 in a way he is correct applying the adhesive to the body directly allows you to better see if there's any low spots where you may not get enough contact, the glass is smooth the pinchweld is not always
That is one way to lay down the urethane. The problem I see with putting the urethane directly onto the windshield instead of the car’s pinch weld is, hopefully your suction cups don’t fail while you have the windshield hanging over the hood of the car.
It Used to be 2 old pull handles & piano wire. & no electric caulking guns Lol And the urethane that'd get stuck all over you, (& everywhere but where it was supposed to go) & "even get stuck to yer unborn grandkids" An old autobody tech used to say. 😄 The good ole days
Same method should be used at home .. it's really wind and water resistance and he forgot to show you the part where they use that heating device with the machine so there is an electric heater to becomes like a melting rubber
I remember they changed out the windshield on my car like this and it was so noisy on the highway forever. Never again, take it into a good shop. Don’t do it outside especially when it’s cold.
Зря так говорите , проблема не в температуре , химия работает при любой температуре ,но чем ниже тем дольше времени нужно для ее застывания . Я очень давно работаю в этой сфере , возможно мастер допустил ошибку и не попал клеем на рамку автомобиля к которой клеится стекло . По этому и было шумно .
@Chris Hibbler 21 year automotive glazier here. I squeezed urethane by hand for a good few years before electric pooh guns became affordable. My milwaukee doesn't sound crook like this gun does. It may need a service or it might be time for a upgrade.
