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I Overkilled My Brake Pedal! The More You Know...

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I had to make a new brake pedal to work with my Dual Master Cylinder setup. A friend suggested a tubular design would be more rigid especially if loaded a bit sideways.
This means its time to put my Engineering hat on and analyze both designs! This turned into a completely overkilled solution that I love! This episode in bench racing at its best, ha ha.
As it turns out, the 5/16" thick material the factory used for the brake pedal is difficult to bend.
So in addition to over analyzing the pedal I had to make some custom tooling for the custom brake pedal. This is how most of project go, but I always finish it one way or the other.
I also fished the wire harness through the tunnel which is also not an easy job.
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Below is a table of contents of past episodes 1-35. Click the link below for the rest
www.ahhgaragetime.com/TOC
Intro
Stripped Shell Introduction
• Porsche 911 Longhood C...
1
Drivers Fender Backdate, Unfold short hood edge, Make Signal Box Parts From Flat Sheet
• Backdating My Porsche ...
2
Drivers Fender Signal Box, Shape Bottom Portion w/ Bead Roller
• Porsche 911 Metal Fabr...
3
Drivers Fender Side Patch Panel Hammerform, TIG Weld Signal Housing
• CNC Machined Hammerfor...
4
Drivers Fender TIG Weld Side Patch Panel, Add signal housing triangle piece
• TIG Welding Sheetmetal...
5
Passenger Side Fender Backdate, Additional Content From Driver's Side
• Modify Your Short Hood...
6
Shorthood to Longhood Conversion, Form Outer Skin Edges And Weld On
• Project Porsche 911, L...
7
E Wheel and Form Longhood Inner Skin w/ Handormed Strength Rib
• English Wheel Metalsha...
8
TIG Weld Outer and Inner Longhood Extension
• Porsche 911 Restoratio...
9
Longhood Front Seal Custom Bracket
• Porsche 911 Carrera RS...
10
Rear Backdate, Remove Rear Impact Bumper and Valence
• Porsche 911 RS Tribute...
11
Lead Rear Valence Corners, Rear Latch Panel Backdate
• Porsche 911 Outlaw Bui...
12
Hybrid Steel License Plate panel & Fiberglass Rear Bumper, Custom Panel Brackets
• Porsche 911 Build - Hy...
13
Custom Aluminum Rear Bumperettes, Solidworks Design, Cut on CNC machine, Rear Flare Trial Fit
• Old Porsche 911 Resto ...
14
Form and TIG Weld Custom Rear Aluminum Bumperettes, Rear Bumper Complete
• Old Porsche 911 Resto ...
15
SC to RS Flare Comparison, Photoshop & Sheetmetal Conversion to RS
• How to Spot a SC Fende...
16
Tack Weld Passenger Side RS Rear Flare, Remove Undercoat, Align Flare
• How to Butt Weld a Ste...
17
Weld Passenger Side Flare, TIG VS MIG, Planishing, Weld Distortion, TIG Arc shots
• Porsche 911 Build - We...
18
Align Body Panels, Hood gaps, Adjust tub with dumbell, Repair Rocker, gap tool, Windshield fit check
• How to Align Body Pane...
19
Fill 20+ Holes, Mirror, Washer Jets, Rockers, Gas Filler, Antenna,
• How to Fill Holes in Y...
20
Remove Rear Window without cutting seal, Kick Method
• How to Remove Porsche ...
21
Remove Decklid Bumps and adjust Gaps & Fit, Add Weld material to edge
• Porsche 911 Decklid Pa...
22
Weld Pssgr Fender Support Panel, Lead Hood to Fender Gap, Weld Fender Edge to Reduce Gap
• Perfect 3mm Door Gaps ...
23
Build quality, Improve Panel Fit, Lead Passenger Door Gap, Lead Rocker to fender gap, Drivers Door
• Who Doesn't Want High ...
24
Drivers Door Alignment, Fill Rust Pits with TIG, Lead Drivers Door Gap, Adjust Front Fender Signal Fit,
• Panel Alignment Nightm...
25
Discovered Rust in Suspension Pan, Spot Weld Drilling, Tram Guage Mounting Points, cut out pan
• Rust Repair is HARD on...
26
Suspension Pan Repair, remove suspension, Cut Latch Panel for Oil Cooler, Check Squareness
• Suspension Pan Replace...
27
Align and Weld Suspension Pan, Spirit Level to remove twist, Kettle Bell Hits to Tweak Position, Rosette Welds
• 911 Suspension Pan Wel...
28
Re-Align Hood/Tub after Suspension Pan Install, Repair rust on gas tank panel,
• 911 Gas Tank Panel Rep...
29
Gas Tank Support Welded In, De-rusted with Electrolysis Bath, Reshaped pan edge, Final welding
• How to Simulate Factor...
30
Simulate Factory Spot Welds, Rosette Plug Welds, Pencil eraser on primer
• How to Simulate Factor...
31
Convert Drivers Side Flare to RS Profile and Repair Rust Damage
• Porsche Restomod - RS ...
32
TIG Weld Drivers Side Flare, Remove Failed Undercoating in Wheel Well, Planish and Metal Finishing
• 911 Restomod | This is...
33
Strip Paint from Car and Prep for Epoxy Primer, Strip it disc and paint stripper
• How to Beat the Ugly O...
34
Epoxy Prime, Project Review and Cost Reveal
• My Cheap Porsche Gets ...
35
Rear Coilover Gussetts & X-member strengthening plates, Golf Ball Dimple Dies For Speed Holes,
• How To Make Your Porsc...

Опубликовано:

25 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 60

@Kolinu2 4 года назад

Great video as always and congrats to Zach. Lovely playing there.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Thanks, Just remember you saw him on Garage Time first.

@roundtailrestoration 4 года назад

Good show, Tom. Thanks for sharing the engineering side. Cool software. Congrats to Zach!!

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Thanks so much Chris!

@OzGecko 4 года назад

Braking systems are almost always worth over-engineering :) Surprised you plasma cut those two holes rather than, say, using a holesaw in the drill press. Please thank Zach for his background noodling and congratulate him on the school acceptance.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Will do thanks! I didn't have a heavy duty hole saw of the right size so I had to die grind it to size anyway. Good hole saws are kind of pricey too and the drill press probably spins too fast as well. At least this pedal is a high touch item, ha ha. I don't think I'm going to cover it up with a pedal board.

@openhighwayproductions 4 года назад

You most certainly killed it with the brake pedal... lol. Great design and flexibility. It still amazes me the tight tolerances the Germans had for running vital items.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

True, I took a live pedal and turned it into a dead pedal😀. RIP stock pedal also.

@jwright650 4 года назад

Nice work on the pedal. 5/16 flatbar is tough to cut cleanly with the plasma cutter you and I have, we need the next size up to get a clean cut....but you got it done. I stack a couple pieces of angles, nested together in my press for bending flatbar. Like you did, just have to work with what you have onhand at times and git-r-dun. Nice to see your software in action, I thought it would deflect more than it did pushing at 20 degrees from straight on. Zach makes some nice video background music, tell him that I enjoyed it.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Absolutely Git-r-done! I'll tell Zach for sure. Thank you😀

@truthseeker8483 4 года назад

I would say the brake lever gusseting should be concentrated around the pivot point mostly to prevent deflection. I like the solid works animations.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Forces are pretty high down there, but I'm not worried about a few millimeters of deflection in the pedal when the floor will deflect way more than that.

@donthompson9525 4 года назад

Nice work on the pedal box! To bad it will be hidden or maybe not depends on your plans for the interior I guess. Congratulations Zach.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Thanks Don! I'm not sure the stock toe boards will fit with the new pedal? I don't even have one, so I will probably leave it out for awhile. Could always add it later

@professordblack 4 года назад

Congrats, Big Z!

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Yes, he's excited!

@dannoyes4493 4 года назад

you are approx 10,000X more patient than I - Excellent!

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Ha ha, maybe that's why it's taking me so long?

@dannoyes4493 4 года назад

@@GarageTimeAutoResto Or perhaps why I'm sitting inside watching videos instead of being out there, working!

@lancemillward1912 4 года назад

Great to see the while process from the mock up. Just looking forward to hearing you push on the gas pedal and hearing the engine roar.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Ahh, me too! Thanks man👍

@fgjf1079 4 года назад

Congrats to Zach, and awesome job on the pedal stuff. Also, I’m impressed with how nice the inside of the car turned out.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Thanks, he is so excited! Hopefully school will resume in the fall.

@1ocean515 4 года назад

Well done. Cool solidworks stuff as well. Thought provoking.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Solidworks is like going down a rabbit hole. It's really powerful, but it takes time.

@mikl911 4 года назад

Love your videos. Great solution, I have to do something with the accelerator pedal on my 67 911.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Thanks, what's up with gas pedal? Are you thinking of repositioning?

@mikl911 4 года назад

@@GarageTimeAutoResto It is very weak, laterally, I have had it bend and then get hooked up in the tunnel edge. really gets the heart beating when your throttle sticks wide open. I just replaced the original pedal with a 917 style curved aluminum one. even pushing the ball end of the connecting rod will bend it.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Well you don't want a stuck throttle that's for sure. Seems like the mounting base is kind of narrow. Maybe the hinge is just worn out. Kudos to you for wearing out a gas pedal!

@fgjf1079 4 года назад

mikl911 I know exactly what you’re talking about as I have a 67 912. do you not have a pedal board behind the accelerator pedal, and a stop under it, to prevent the lever from getting bent?

@mikl911 4 года назад

fg jf yes that was part of the problem I had an aftermarket aluminum backing board but didn’t initially have the stopper. I do now and It did resolve the issue but still concerned how weak that piece is.

@qiguangli9923 4 года назад

will be fun to run a fluid FEA sim of the fan shroud to see how efficient it really is and maybe improve it somehow

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

The 911 or 912 fan shroud? I already know the 912 fan shroud isn't that efficient. I agree it would be a fun project. I need an intern!

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Good thinking and it sounds right. My hunch is the aerodynamic pressures created by a moving car are way smaller than the pressures created by the fan or vacuum created by the engine. Maybe the ducktail design would add more pressure? I have the equipment to measure this but my car doesn't move.

@wayne9518 4 года назад

I’d much rather have over designed brakes than “that should work” and find out too late it didn’t. Congratulations Zack! Got any recordings?

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

I agree about the brakes! I'm excited to try them out👍 Zach should start his own RU-vid channel! Stay posted.

@robertneukirch8901 4 года назад

over-engineered might be a good thing...congrats to Zach!

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Thank you so much, I will tell zach

@anthonyray5515 4 года назад

Great work sir! Constructive criticism; use screen recording and merge your videos. Windows has it built in. WIN + R. i think... :)

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Thanks! My editing computer does the screen record but the office computer uses an older version of windows.

@anthonyray5515 4 года назад

@@GarageTimeAutoResto XP? And the software won't transfer to Windows 10?

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

@@anthonyray5515 Yeah XP, Solidworks isn't on the editing computer because I need all the space and performance I can get, ha ha. If this was something I do more often, I would download a recorder

@anthonyray5515 4 года назад

@@GarageTimeAutoResto it was good content. Would have been nice to see the screen in HD. Maybe next time!

@WillemFick 4 года назад

Hey Tom, love your channel! I am very keen to emulate you brake pedal setup on my own restomod. Do you mind sharing what model master cylinders you used?

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Hi William, they are Tilton 76 series. .625" bore front and .700" rear. Available from Summit racing or Amazon.

@WillemFick 4 года назад

@@GarageTimeAutoResto Thanks a stack!

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

I created an involved brake calculator spreadsheet if you want it

@thinkerdoit 4 года назад

Tom - love this video, wouldn’t mind seeing more FEM analysis! Like that strut tower bar or rear torsion tube... Q’s: When fabbing, how do you ask for steel at the metal supply depot? ie conversation about steel grading? Also, how do you calculate the range of force to apply in a test and how does that map to the particular steel you choose?

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Cool, I try to add more FEM. 99% of the time I choose mild steel, 1018 or 1020 (whatever they have) All steels behave the same until they are pushed to the limit. The specialty steels are no more stiff than mild steel. (Look at the Elastic Modulus for a range of steels. They are practically the same.) A vintage Porsche only uses specialty steels in a few places: A few bolts in the trans/engine and the torsion bars, anti roll bars. Mild steel has great weldability, formability, and fatigue resistance. Chrome moly is great and the yeild strength is much higher. This means I could reduce weight on my brake pedal by 10 oz. This makes sense for an F1 car, but guess what. Those parts pushed to 80% of the new yield strength have a definitive lifespan. My policy is to always design the part for infinite life with low strength steel, 30-40% of the yield strength. If you really need high performance, then the steel and design need to be very closely matched.

@thinkerdoit 4 года назад

Garage Time - Restomod The last part, clarify? ...r u saying, design with low strength steel to be super strong, defined by maximum yield as determined by FEA? Engineered @ 30-40% of 100% yield? A little unclear on that last part.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Yes, the brake pedal is strong despite low strength materials because the size and shape is strong. This is verified with FEA. 30-40% of tensile strength is very conservative and consistent with what the factory did.

@thinkerdoit 4 года назад

Garage Time - Restomod great context!

@teddyzp911 4 года назад

Over engineering blues .. Great video...

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Thanks!

@walterkucharski4790 4 года назад

Are you not able to heat it up before bending ?

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

No, I'm not setup to get it hot enough to bend. I would need an oxy acetylene torch for that thickness. It wasn't hard to bend at all once I changed the bottom die.

@Iain240 4 года назад

You constrained the pedal wrong it needs to be a pivot at the bottom and also at the balance bar tube. This will change the results.

@GarageTimeAutoResto 4 года назад

Really, you think the pedal pivots around the floating pushrods? Ok. This analysis and max deflection is done when the master cylinders won't compress anymore to react with the 80 lbs at the foot pad. The only thing the balance bar does is push back on the pedal.

@Iain240 4 года назад

@@GarageTimeAutoResto it doesn't matter where it pivots around and you didn't have any force coming from the pushrods or at least it didn't look like it.