Plumber here, can't believe those two things were all that was wrong. There's a lot of code in plumbing and to DIY it and only have two things wrong is quite an accomplishment. Good for you!
I think you should be pretty proud of what you accomplished. The failed inspection points are things you have now learned and will be useful to you in the future. Thanks for sharing your experience.
Yes, and it's really great to be aware of the issue now, rather than in the future when you have it all walked up and causing damage. Learning through mistakes
If you're not making mistakes, you're not learning. As a former DIY'er who then became a professional, this is how you become better. Your mistakes were relatively minor, if not annoying, and you should be proud of what you accomplished. Municipal inspectors are paid to do what they do, and even professionals fail inspections from time to time.
As a retired plumber and plumbing inspector I think you did a pretty good job as DIY. I will make a few comments in a constructive way. Every where has different rules. Also, not all plumbing inspectors are created equal. Most are very good. The few others depending on there training can be pretty bad. Where I worked the 4” cast below grade would remain the full size thru the floor with a 4” clean out above the slab and then it could be reduced to 3” to pick up what’s above. This can all be done in plastic. The fernco is an approved fitting so I wouldn’t have a problem with it. The powder room w.c requires a vent as water flowing past the fixture could siphon the water from the bowl. We call this indirect siphonage. In a small buildings it may not siphon but multi floor buildings it can. Where I worked that code didn’t have 2 sets of rules. The vent required for the w.c. in the powder room can be connected to the horizontal piece of 3”pipe just after the 90 degree elbow. That vent can the tie into other vents close by as long as it is above the flood level rim of the fixture it is tying into. You may have to increase the vent size after the WC vent is added. This way the plumbing downstream of the WC vent could remain. Less work. The closer the vent is to a fixture the better. Be careful where you drill holes thru the floor joists. Usually the building inspector is looking at that. The kitchen sink drain appears to be in a outside wall. Depending where you are if there’s a chance of freezing the drain should be protected with ridgid styrofoam.It works well in these situations. Good luck with the changes and hopefully you get it passed. At the end of the day you want the plumbing to work with no problems. In most situations if there’s a problem it’s usually discovered after the fixtures are connected. It then becomes a nightmare as the building is complete. That’s why the rough in inspection is so important. It may seem some of the details are a waste of time but from experience it’s worth it. Lastly, part of the rough in inspection usually requires that all the drains, waste and vents be filled up with water to check for leaks. Most plumbers hate doing it but it’s worth it.
@@Lewdacris916 In my previous post I stated that I have no problem with fernco fittings. I checked their website. They are certified by many recognized agencies. If properly installed there is no problem with leakage. My question is if your going from cast iron to plastic what type of connection would be acceptable or better. Modern buildings that have cast iron drains, waste and vents have thousands of mechanical joint couplings connecting plain end cast iron pipe and fittings. Similar to Fernco. They have a rubber gasket surround by a stainless steel clamp. Once installed the DWV is filled up with water and checked for leaks. Any connection can leak. That’s why plumbers test the plumbing to avoid problems. Still there will always be a few untested joints. It’s not a perfect world. Connecting older existing plumbing to newer products can be a challenge. There’s a lot of certified products out there to deal with this. I understand there are jurisdictions that don’t allow them. (Fernco) Where I have worked they are allowed.
I give you a thumbs up for posting this video because you were willing to show where you made mistakes so others could learn. It shows strong character.
For anyone who does this, that 4 inch pipe needs to be brought up above the floor full 4 inch to the cleanout tee. You can then reduce to 3 inch above the floor. The reason for this is there is difficult to properly clean out that 4 inch pipe below the ground should it become plugged with only a 3 inch cleanout opening as access.
Your humility got a sub from me. This is incredibly helpful information. Pat yourself on the back. A lot of people just think of doing something like this their whole life. They never actually get to doing it! 👏
PEX is flexible, don't use it like copper with constant elbows and fittings. Instead just bend it to where it needs to go - your route will be a little different, since you need gradual bends, but you reduce points of failure and pressure drops.
@@timmattle4730Warm it up a little next time. Warm not hot, i.e. as hot as you are able to still hold it without burning yourself. A small amount of flattening won't significantly harm anything - certainly less than a fitting would. An actual kink in the line though is no good. Also, bend it slowly into the brace.
@@timmattle4730 You can use the heat gun on high if you keep it moving. Test the pipe frequently with your hand to see how hot it is. When it gets to just barely burning hot it's very flexible and can handle bending, but it will not permanently change shape. If you do need to permanently change shape you have to heat it a little hotter than that but be very cautious because it kinks very easily at those high temperatures. But remember to bend it slowly give it a chance to relax as you bend it. One of these days I should make a video on how PEX-B handles heat and bending. All the videos are I've found are about PEX-A but PEX-B is more forgiving than people realize.
had my shower flow back up because pex was installed from the shower valve down to the faucet, apparently the inner diameter is smaller than copper and that caused enough flow restriction to cause my showerhead to be the overflow lol
I give you kudos for doing it yourself and I like how you told the plumbers to leave you alone because you're a do-it-yourselfer and you know you made mistakes
Great job - sorry about the do-over for the powder room. I failed inspection on a two-sink vanity because I had the vent just a little too high, but a simple fix. Keep DIYing my friend! Live & learn, part of the reward of DIYing.
@@CoopyKat in the real estate listings they're usually called a "half bath" (missing the half where you actually bathe!) but in the Mid-Atlantic where I live I've always heard them referred to as powder rooms. No one here would walk into Benjamin Moore and say "I want a fun and adventurous color for my half bath." What's the more familiar term where you live?
It takes a lot of effort to do your own plumbing, kudos for that. It takes lot of guts to make a video about your mistakes and put it on the internet for others to learn from, hats off to you for that.
It's commendable that you're willing to share a video of your failures. I see that you've also included one where you failed an ELECTRICAL inspection too. I hate to be the one to tell you this but add one more egregious omission. You'd fail a rough in framing inspection as well. You can't notch out the TOP of a rafter leaving the bulk to rest against a plate. Use a stringer or better yet, joist hangers. I applaud your energy and willlingness to learn skills but this is why people in the trades have to serve apprenticeships over time to learn how to do these things. Over time, you get better.
Awesome Video. You always learn your lesson when you have to spend your own money amd energy reworking something. Luckily the inspector didn't call you on all those medium turn 90's and San T's. Our inspectors would make us cut'em out. Good job on this video.
This is such a solid and comprehensive explanation for a DIYer to post a video of himself failing on somethings you're clearing very passionate about. It is got me thinking. You got to know how much skill goes into this project. I hope at the end you know how hard it was to get done and how much better its going to get for your next project. I can't wait to see this old house pass its final inspection. Great job!
Nice work dude. Even pros fail inspections. Nothing to worry over. For the horizontal nail plates, im pretty sure its because of crown and base mouldings.
Very helpful. One suggestion is to add accessible clean outs to all low slope sections of the kitchen drain. Stuff like coffee grounds and cooking grease will accumulate there and must be mechanically removed.
@@nonyafkinbznes1420 Agreed. Although would never hurt to add a clean-out now that the house is already stripped to the bones anyway, no one in my family has ever put food or grease down the drain in the 32 years I've been alive (we collect grease in old soup cans and use paper towels to wipe pans out before washing them out, then toss both towels and grease can in the trash) and we've never once had a drain clog issue.
Kudos! Don’t take the failure too much to heart. The end game is to avoid nasty issues later in the finished house. I’m also a DIY guy and my feeling is I do the best I can up front and trust the inspector to do his/her job professionally. If it’s wrong it’s not in anybody’s best interest to just hide it behind the drywall. 😏 🙌🏻
I DYI quite a few things but I don't think I would try plumbing an entire house unless I had a plumber approved plan to follow. Kudos to you for giving it a try.
That’s exactly how you learn you make a mistake and then you fix it and The people that say they never make a mistake are usually the people that never do anything remember that ! you did a great job!!
DIY is knowing how to do the specific tasks correctly. Knowing the decades or more of theory behind every trade and inspector.....is not so easy to get right every time. Great of you to share. Cheers.
The reason why they want the big plates on horizontal pipes is to protect from nails and pins going into pipes when you install baseboard trim and any trim you may install on the top of your walls.
Speaking as a retired home inspector that has renovated several home, the inspector has good points. I look to books like Ugly's (for electrical) and Google to help me. One day someone will thank you for keeping a book of pictures of your renovations for the benefit of future owners.
Your work is professional and meticulous. I saw it in my house, which you helped me complete. I was hoping that you would work on my second house, but unfortunately you are busy.
It's pretty awesome when you've done everything almost exactly right and the inspectors can come in to just lend a second pair of eyes to make sure you've dotted the Is and crossed the Ts. Everyone fucks up and that external review is invaluable.
The 5x8 nail players are required at the top and bottom of walls simply because there is to protect from nails from crown molding or baseboard. Don't usually need 5x8 anywhere else
When I built my house, I hired a "licensed plumber". He racked up 26 "exceptions" in the first rough inspection. 18 on the second... And I fired him before the third inspection!!! I ended up paying a friend to come up from Alabama to help me do the plumbing after ripping out EVERYTHING the plumber did. You got dinged for a missed vent (could happen to the best) and a coupling... You did VERY good! And just so you know... Michigan plumbing code for venting is unique in the US. As far as I know every other state allows "dry vents". Michigan does not! Not getting bit by that one is surprising for a DIYer!!!
For a diy that looks great. As for the toilet, if I understand it right, there is a 4” stack it you have a toilet wet vented by a toilet above it. If this is the case it will be a problem. If you have 4” pipe with a slug of water going down it, it pushes a lot of air. Imagining a 4” diameter hand pump. When you push the plunger, that air has to go somewhere and most likely it will bounce the water in the toilet below and possible cause the trap to lose water. The difference on the stud guards is on the vertical it’s just drywall. On the top plates you have trim so you need that plate to overhang to prevent a framing nail from getting it. Though on that window frame with 2” pipe going through 2x4, I’m surprised they didn’t make you put a stud show
You did a real good job I’m 65 years old I’ve been a contractor for 36 years and after 20 something years of remodeling and doing everything iPhone to interior finish carpentry for new homes and I even see the plumbers under cruise failing inspections on new homes for certain things. But I’ve been there doing my own work in my house and sometimes I guess years ago and other inspectors might cut you a little bit of slack or this an app but what you have to do afterwards it’s not that much work and it’s just how it is you’ll be able to make those changes you’re giving selfie PVC 3 to 4 inch and then use the band and get a long sweep neck cut into that stack and put that in there for your bathroom it’s nothing major but you did a really great job and I know how long it takes to do that stuff. I renovated my house at that time on many things over the years and I did a lot of plumbing work in here too and I feel for you but your work looks great and that’s just how it is with the plumbing inspectors and every other inspectors.Some of them are more strict than others and that’s just how it is bro I think you did a fantastic job and it’s not much to correct. Good luck with your project!😊
You need to change out that sanitary tee that’s laying on its side. Those type of tees can only go vertical. For horizontal tee connections you need to always use long sweep tees/combo. Or use a wye and a 45 degree.
You might want to do something about the bare wood extending into the dirt by the cast iron hookup. That is a perfect place for termites to invade the entire structure.
Nicely done. I DIY everything possible in our remodel for exactly the same reasons. I feel the dedication i put into the work counterbalances the ahem occasional mistake or quality difference compared to having a pro do it. Oh yeah, and the money saved 😘
You may want to consider switching out those galvinized pipes and fittings on the shower assembly (which is likely made of brass) for 1/2 inch copper or 3/4 pex as well, to avoid galvanic corrosion which will lead to future issues.
@samuelkingentrepreneur I've done hundreds of assemblies with all pex, just the spouts need to be 3/4 for optimum flow rate, as the interior diameter is closest to or greater than 1/2 inch copper. Seen it done with 1/2 inch pex many times too, but this creates far more pressure on the valve body seals, wearing em out prematurely and also the tub can take twice as long to fill. They key is finding 3/4 pex to 1/2 FPT drop ear fittings. These are very hard to find for me in my area. Most store chains and supply houses rarely have em in stock, but I've had great luck getting em online.
When I had my addition put on, I was surprised to see 3", not 4" PVC used for toilets and stack. It was explained to me that back when toilets used many gallons to flush, 4" was appropriate. Todays toilets send so little water down with the waste, that a 3" pipe is better because there's more force to send the water/waste through the pipes.
Making mistakes is the only way to learn, also having an open mind to a plumbers opinion and direction without getting defensive can only benefit you. That being said there’s a lot more than just 2 things he could have failed you for, according to UPC rules. He probably gave you a lot of leeway, cause you’re not a plumber. Plumbing is not about plumbing faster, it’s about making everything as efficient as possible and checking off all the “what if this happens down the road” boxes while following local codes no matter how long it takes. A key thing to remember is, just cause it’s within plumbing codes, doesn’t mean it’s the most efficient. I’ve been plumbing 14 years and I own my own plumbing company and I’m still learning and interested in new things and techniques, I even like seeing how they do things in other countries and it gives me ideas, I’m always a student in life.
You must live in the boondocks being allowed to do your own plumbing also, you need a shielded coupling where the PVC turns into cast on the main stack. Plus you’re missing nail plates for the studs.
Could that have become a wet vent? I'm not a plumber but I think I saw that either way that was a great video and you showed it can be done. Inpections are a open book test
Why did you replace cast iron with PVC and copper with PEX? Recommend cast iron which is much quieter. Copper is less toxic and easier to install with press fittings. Vents are required at each fixture to prevent sewer gas from coming into the house. Stud guards are required.
Probably cost of materials man lmao, also ease of work for doing it on your own. Not everyone has a few thousand dollar to get a press set up and a decent snap cutter to make cast iron easier. He definitely did this at a fraction of what a cast iron dwv, and copper water supply house would cost.
If I had a dollar for every time I saw PEX done wrong, I would be rich. You do not need to 90 every turn, PEX is flexible and is meant to bend so you can eliminate joints.
I was taught only to do joints in PEX where the bend it too tight, you can’t avoid splitting a supply line or you’re doing a repair. Every joint you add is 2 more places for failure.
Argh, had an electrician friend that's a DIYer do some of my plumbing and I soon realized it was a mistake. He installed a 4" x 4" rubber coupler without the metal wrap. It's going to be hell to fix now.
I have built so many deck and I always fail the first inspection. I have had a few perfect decks that the inspector just had to find a little problem. Now I give him easy to fix, esay to see problems and let him fail me. Then I fix that and move on. I do excellent work, but I just have an inspector that will pass a builders decks without so much as a glance at it, but my decks he breaks out the magnifying glass. Some inspectors are just that way.
This is an incredible accomplishment! No one can ever take this away from you. I have one question about local code enforcement. In the municipality where I live they require a licensed plumber to do plumbing. Same for Electric. I'm curious what municipality you are in that allows DIY plumbing. I saw your video on doing your own roof and that was equally impressive.
Big problem is comprimising structural integrity cutting more than 15% of structural members. The pipes should have been run under the structural members, building a faux ceiling if necessary. Expect inspectors to find more; they always do! Took 16 months and 3 inspections to finally get my electrical approved! Held me to the letter of code; NO VARIANCE!
Paranoid….. The codes/inspectors and building departments are only there to enforce quality workmanship so you don’t buy a house that’s a total piece of crap..
I don't see a problem with the toilet, dumps into a 3" stack with other vents connected. 3" pipe is self-venting, also the other vents provide ample relief, I think the inspector wash busting your chops for his benefit lol, Great job for a diy.
Nope, it needs to be vented….inspector didn’t call him on some other things i saw (no long turns). Inspector didn’t seem like he was being over the top
@@travlangley1 it is vented, drops into a 3" line coming from the top. Now if that line doesn't vent,that's a different story but you don't see that in the video
@@vinnygoombatts1458 it has to be designed for stack vent…if the upper toilets/fixtures are running you’re not getting air technically…we both know it will work fine, but as for the code I get why the inspector wanted him to do the vent
Pretty sure you want to vent the main stack above the toilet. Most toilets vent on the main stack. (Also a DIY). Also Pretty sure you don't want to vent the toilet by relying on the sink vent...these items usually have their own vents. Toilets usually have a 4" vent. Though multiple toilets can share them.
Don’t know if you’re also going to have a framing/structural inspection, but I’m pretty sure I see some holes and notching in the joists that are not to code.
Hey I think you did a excellent job. I’m a DIY and have been involved in numerous house projects. I helped out with Habitat For Humanity. Lessons learned minor adjustments PASS.
I would have used a cleanout with a 90-degree angle between the run and the cap instead of the angled one so I could run a snake into the house as well as outside if I need to get to a blockage, but the one you used is fine.
Man! You are incredible. I think you did great and have just a few corrections. (Also watched you replace the roof! Where do you get the energy? You should be very pleased and proud of your accomplishments!!!
I think that's not bad for someone who is doing this DIY.. two mistakes on an entire 3 bedroom house.. Plumbing isn't something I like to do so hats off to ya
Having completed 1000s of inspections through the years you have two types of inspectors. The ones that will look at everything and explain how to rectify the issues and the assholes.
I would run the toilet its own vent if possible. I owned a house recently that smelled like sewage from the kitchen sink all the time because the toilet was vented off it and that was enough to make me move out.
As a DIYer myself I look at mistakes as a good thing, because I won't do it again sure it can be costly in time and materials but worth it in the end .it's allways right the second time around
y off your main trunk to every floor. three inch to every toilet with a vent to the attic from every toilet then tie them together so you have only one vent thru the roof. and use sanitary tees from the main collection line or vent. do not use sanitary tees laying on their side or on their back. only in a vertical position, that why they call them sanitary tees, they separate the air in front of the 'wave' coming down the line allowing the air to rise in the vent and the liquid to fall. run vents together with straight tees and whatever fall you need to make them meet. drains from sinks or tubs need their own vent if the run is over 7 feet. if there are any 90's in the drain line, make them long sweep and if more than two 90's run its own vent anyway. if its feasible run a vent from every drain, you won't be sorry. I guess you could always use those stupid vents in your vanities that spring open to vent then close to prevent sewer gas but your drains will burp and bubble anyway... the thing to understand is how liquid runs in waves in piping. you need to separate the air from the liquid or other problems will develop like traps in floor drains being syphoned off as well as lower floor appliances like showers filling with sewer from upper floor toilets..
In Kentucky, all of your PVC would need to be ripped out. Tees turned backwards, wet vents, fernco coupling underground, thats everything i could spot in the first five-ten seconds of watching.
That's why plumbers serve an apprentice ship to learn all of the drain/waste/venting codes that keep you safe in your home, in my neck of the woods you need to be a registered plumber to install any plumbing systems in a residential/commercial building
