Im not an Electrician but after watching a few videos about transfer switches I did it myself. It's actually pretty easy. After turning the main breaker off the only thing you have to keep in mind is not to touch the 2 main wires coming in at the top, because it's always live but other than that, it was a piece of cake. the hardest part had nothing to do with the wiring, it was mounting it on the wall by myself without a 2nd pair of hands. to explain how to do it in the simplest terms, you take the black wire out of your breaker, put the red wire from the transfer switch in there instead then twist up the old black wire from the main panel and the new black wire from the transfer switch with a twister wire connector. thats it everything is labeled and you'll enjoy an extension cord free house
this is the transfer switch I started off with, My house isn't too big it did probably 75 percent of the circuits, "Goal Zero Yeti Home Integration Kit Transfer Switch, Powers up to 4 Circuits" It powered to furnace, and all the lights and outlets, in the kitchen, living room and bedrooms,porch lights. It didn't power the garage,utility room and microwave (which had its own circuit so I ran an extension cord to it) I started off with the AC200p with that transfer switch and upgraded my setup to the AC300 and life's been good. The new Switch I installed is the Reliance 10 cirucuit 50 amp one (30 amp one is cheaper I just wanted to future proof) which covered everything for me.
If you really wanted to get that to work on any given day, you could cover a portion of the solar array, plug it into the power station and then remove the cover. This will lower the non load voltage and once it is under load it will be below the 40v limit and should work.
Nice. Long ago I seen at least one other person test that too and it overload protected and was fine at slightly higher than the max voltage, but pretty sure he damaged it at maybe 10 volts above the maximum. I don't remember the details, so I am guessing it just killed the BMS. I'm sure I would have remembered a fire or something. I think his solar would only get slightly above the maximum voltage during perfect conditions, so he wanted to verify that the unit had overload protection instead of trying to find a unit that can accept more voltage.
The bms should have overvoltage protection, bc the charge controller is supposed to protect the battery, mosfets, shunts. Would you trust a so called smart battery to save itself from overvoltage/overcharge/overheat with no bms, mppt, fuses or capacitors involved?
@@AskIveSolar you had us wondering the same thing if ur question was rhetorical/u just thinking out loud. Bc you have access to the owners manual and data sheets lol I live dangerously i parallel connec charge lead acid and lithium batteries simultaneously. Or use Nimh setting to bump charge dead lipos and love overvolting motors or running AC motors on dc current. My methods confuse most ppl.
