I Sprayed Kitchen Cabinets With A $200 Sprayer! Wagner Flexio 5000 Sprayer Review 

My first question too!

⁠@@jasony9950don’t have to be a D about it… u never know the situation or how much the client payed… maybe they had a smaller budget and agreed to a little less perfection to save some money

The owner is going to replace the hinges

@@MattyBeanz did they opt to save money on paint filters too?

Each job requires a unique approach. This worked because the homeowner put on new slow close hinges after I was done and they wanted the kitchen back as quickly as possible.

@@diypaintingthat’s what I was wondering as well. I feel like the slow close hardware would be a good ROI…plus how easy to just spray without removing them. But how to install new hinges without messing up the paint?? 🤔

I think it would be a great choice. The fine finish attachment did great on cabinets for me and the regular spray attachment with the ispray nozzle should be perfect for the fence.

I was wondering the same thing so I'm glad you asked!

Did do any sanding or anything before painting

I do 20% with the Advance as well. For reference, I thin most water based top coats by 20% when spraying with an HVLP.

@DIY Painting and Refinishing thank you. Sorry I meant settings on the sprayer. Like full material full air? Or low material etc.

@@shannon8359 Here is another video where he is doing a tutorial for a different Flexio sprayer but says that his tips work for other Flexios (including the 5000) as well: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ormp9PpurgA.html

@@barriekirk501 Thanks Barrie!!

@@diypainting Is 20% necessary to get the atomization with this gun? BM Advance is 8 oz/gallon max, which is like 6.25%.

Found it... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-21W8kF3cO4A.html

I was wondering the same thing. Don’t you have to clean the cabinets real well before doing any of this? I’ve been trying like crazy to get the built on grease that’s been on them from over the years.

​@@kristalmontemayor7304krudcutter

He thins it 20% in all of his videos.

The cheaper the spray gun the thinner the paint needs to be basically. Cheaper guns will not be good for thicker latex paints

^ 100% I can't hardly get it back in this hard case either!! It's like once you unpack it, good luck getting everything back in. Honestly, I store the big spray gun in my cupboard because there is no way I'll ever get everything back in!

He said 20% with water for that as well in another video.

Absolutely. Make sure to sand throughly to rough up the surface first though.

Pretty sure I saw in a different video where he addressed the hinges. The homeowners were going to replace all the hinges and get soft closing ones. It was easier for him to spray with doors on and not having to worry about the hinges since they were going to be replaced.

Yeah, the homeowners replaced the hinges right after I was done. They were big on having the kitchen back as quickly as possible as well. I usually recommend taking the doors off and spraying them while they lay flat, but different jobs call for different approaches. Yes, I was painting the walls after as well.

Same, have you figured anything out?

@@cassidysmith2993I am going thru the same - micro bubbles on my cabinet while spraying. Added water as recommended and high speed air with less paint setting.

3k in 6 months is chump change bro.

The detail nozzle has 7.4 cm inner diameter at the top of threads, while the iSpray nozzle has 10cm (and is taller). That's just me eyeballing it with a ruler.

You can go two ways, get a sprayer that is ideal for the cabinets, but will still work on the exterior. Or get a sprayer that is ideal for the exterior but will still be ok for cabinets. OR, just get both. If you're willing to spend a little more, my suggestion would be to get the Wagner Control Pro 150 (you can see my video on it here: app.sitebuddy.io/login) for your exterior project. You'll love it. It's a great little sprayer, perfect for your size home. Then, I'd invest in the Flexio 5000 for all your cabinets and small projects. The Flexio would be quite slow for your exterior, but would work if you wanted. And the Control Pro is a little harder to get to perfectly smooth finish without getting runs. When you're done, drop the Control Pro onto Facebook, you will likely not need that type of sprayer again and the 5000 will cover all your small spraying needs. Links: Control Pro: amzn.to/3KwcXz7 Flexio: amzn.to/3MfZ9tL

Also, you don't need to sand new fiber cement board, just make sure its clean. To directly answer the question, if you have to choose one sprayer, I'd go with the Flexio 5000. It's going to be slower on the exterior, but IMO, most people can live with that but they would much rather have the best finish possible on their cabinets. Plus you can use it for your furniture in the future.

This was a job I did for a friend and they were replacing the hardware when I was done, so I wanted to try leaving the doors on, which IMO seemed like a legit thing to do if you are DIYing your cabinets. It actually worked pretty well. Leaving them on probably saved me 8-9 hours on the total project and didn't sacrifice quality at all. I still plastic'd off the insides of the cabinets, then sprayed everything with the doors shut, and finally went back and opened all the doors and sprayed the back sides. Worked great. Though I do always take them off for my main clients.

Yep. Typically not done, but they were replacing their hinges after my job, so I tried it to see how it went. Went great. I did it on my own home too and 8 months in the hinges look great.

@@diypainting thanks for your response, makes sense now

I've been using that as a filler since roughly 2009/10 and have not had a single call back.

20%

I got my answer from one of your other videos: Full air always.

You can absolutely use polyurethane and oils. You need to thin them until their viscosity allows the sprayer to atomize it appropriately to get a nice smooth finish.

Yes, I always sand after primer, before the top coat.

I sanded, just not featured in the video. I always sand before priming.

I haven't used the 4300 but I think the only real difference is the 4300 doesn't have built in storage like the 5000.

@@diypainting thanks so much

Yep. They are pretty much the same sprayer at the end of the day.

I ended up buying a vonvorn hvlp paint gun off amazon. only 40 bucks and it had great a great rating. I hope it sprays as good as the wagner @@diypainting

Just made a video about this: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--WyWOH-CHu8.html

Not if you thin the paint properly and set up your sprayer correctly.

I did it free for a friend. He had new hinges on order, so I decided to save a TON of time and not remove the doors. You can get a perfect finish with the doors on if you need to!

I think their marketing all kind of targets different demographics. Maybe it's just me, but I think the Homeright are really popular in the crafting and furniture painting/flipping market.

Where does the Earlex lie? That Wagner looked similar to the Earlex 5500 but more metal in Earlex and no shut off at the gun. Pluses and minuses. But metal makes it weighty. 😕

The homeowner's ordered new slow close hinges which were put on after I completed the job. I actually did this job for free to help the home owner out. I kept the doors on to save time since the job was free. Project turned out fantastic and the finish was flawless. Keeping the doors on can be a great option in certain situations.

you don't havevto

I’d try the finish coat, and if not happy, go back to the sanding step. Not a painter though. How did it work out for you?

Instead of sanding on this job, I actually sprayed a healthy coat of Pam cooking spray on everything before painting. Then I added a handful of sand into the paint to help smooth everything out. Doors and hinges stayed on to ultilize the Earth's gravitational pull to smooth the sand into the finish. Ok... I'm just messing around. Been asked this question many times in the comments. There are many reasons you may want to leave doors on when doing a DIY job. 1) Don't own a drying rack 2) Lack of space to set out doors while drying 3) Need to complete job in a shorter amount of time This was a free job for a friend (made clear in comments). They also ordered new slow close hinges, so we decided to speed things up and see how well it worked, to leave the doors on. Worked AMAZINGLY well. No drying rack needed or extra space to store drying doors. Something a DIYer would ABSOLUTELY run into. Also, if you pay attention to the channel name (DIY Painting), what I am trying to accomplish here to to look at scenarios that DIYers would run into and help them achieve professional results. Cabinets get sanded prior to applying a grain filler, after grain filler, after primer, and between top coats. That's 4 rounds of sanding on the cabinets. Wouldn't normally do this for a paying client, but it worked amazingly well for their tiny townhome with no extra space, accomplished something I wanbted to for a video, and was able to accomplish the freebie job really quickly. Thanks for watching, appreciate the view!

Totally get it. These videos are definitely made for the DIY homeowner, not professionals. However, I've spent 23 years painting in commercial, new construction, and residential. In the videos, I try to do the job in a way that a DIYer can do the job also. That means using the tools that they would purchase and use, and doing things they would do like leave the doors on, paint over hinges, and so on. Anyway, thanks for watching!

I thin most water based top coats 20%. Including Sherwin Williams Emerald, INSL-X Cabinet Coat, Behr Cabinet Enamel and more.

@@diypainting Thin BM Advance 20%??? BM advises thin no more than 7%. With the Flexio I guess you have to thin that much to make it work? Have you tried less thinning and didn't work well until 20%? What could happen long term if BM doesn't advise that much thinning. Color change? Affect hardness, sheen, etc?