I Tested Everything! The New EcoFlow Delta Pro 3 Power Station - How Does It Perform? 

Hobo tech has good codes as well and you also get a free display panel.

Solar is better with ultra.

This is basically a mini DPU. Lots of similar features but just smaller. It definitely beats some of the annoyances of the F3800 but it is more expensive.

True, I sometimes wish I had held off on buying the F3800 on kickstarter, but I was able to get it, a 400W solar panel and some extras for a little over 2K; figure that was a great deal :-)

@@andrewvillavicencio8496 it was a great deal, you just gotta workaround some of the quirks of the unit. There are plenty of workarounds to get it functioning as you need.

@@Jasonoid Agreed, and your site has been a great resource for some of those workarounds :-)

You're very welcome!

Thanks for watching!

You too!

Good points! Thanks for sharing your thoughts.

What eg4 are you getting, I'm think of doing the same thing. How many batteries are you starting at.

@@zfontain1975 I got the EG4 off grid inverter 3KW inverter and the EG4 LL 48V battery. It it about 150 bucks more than the EG4 Life Power 4 battery but the warranty on the LL battery is 10 years instead of 5 years.

@shelley131 Are you going to connect eg4 inverter to a transfer switch? I'm going to do the same thing, just one battery at a time do to money.

This model is basically a mini delta pro ultra. Smaller inverter, smaller battery, same great performance though.

Fridge power usage all depends on ambient temperature. You'll see much more power usage when it's warm in your house vs when its cold in the winter. Msot fridges pull 1 to 2 kwh per day on average. This won't have any issues running a fridge for a couple days.

This is priced slightly less than the Ultra just because the battery and inverter are smaller. A DIY inverter like this one ( signaturesolar.com/eg4-6000xp-off-grid-inverter-split-phase/ ) can put out 240v split phase, they aren't too expensive.

I'm not sure why they didn't give me a $500 coupon for my viewers but you can get $500 off right now on their website and their Amazon store. So the price could be around $3199

If you are going to sped that much money in a system, just get the Ecoflow Delta Pro Ultra. It's much more capable and provides more wattage.

@@Jasonoid Absolutely correct. Did not know the surge capacities of the DPU's. And I'm seeing that they can be linked to handle wattage surges over 22kW. Unreal!

The Pecron is quite the deal vs this one being almost double the cost. An RV setup has both DC and AC loads so the power station will need to power both. So you'll use both 30amp outputs actually.

I am currently testing the E3600, it's a really cool unit at a super affordable price.

​@@JasonoidThanks Jason for the sneak peek! I'm super excited to see your thoughts on it! As much as I'd like to go with this to stay in the Ecoflow ecosystem, I just can't get passed the sticker shock... I have a feeling that the Pecron will deliver over 90% of what this does for less than half the price!

@Jasonoid is the e3600 inverter strong. Meaning, can you go over 3600 watts without shutting off right away?

@@zfontain1975 i haven't tested that yet, we'll find out.

But the Pecron is only 120V? You have to buy two E3600s to get 240 split phase. Or am I missing something?

These power stations really prefer 'inverter generators' with a pure sine wave to charge.

Here's a video breaking that down: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tK4JKmfndh8.html You can get even more details HERE: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XFlRkMm8rDc.html

I don't have any details about the EU version, I'm sorry.

I didn't test the UK model but I'm guessing the main difference is going to be the inverter output. You probably wont have a 120v inverter and you'll just have one larger 240v option. The solar should be very similar, along with the DC output options.

Yes, it has all the fancy Ecoflow app settings like the Ultra!

The Victron is limited to 30 amps on both sides, PV input and charging output. With a 12v system you can only get ~400W max. Switch to a 48V system and you can get up to ~1600W. Make sure your panels are wired in series to get as close to 100V as possible but find an online calculator if you plan to run the system when it gets cold out

That's in there somewhere, long video. 0.9% for AC output (120v and 240v) 0.25% for DC output

@@Jasonoid gracias

I agree!

Here's a video I made on that topic: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tK4JKmfndh8.html

I think it's a fairly useful tool to add to the collection! It is the Power-Z KM003C.

Yes, it can have the inverter enabled and charge at the same time on both the 120v and 240v output. You can also enable a setting in the smart app that will "remember" the last known output setting before it died so it will turn on the AC inverter again.

It appears the C20 port is limited to 1800 watts, whether it's 120v or 240v input.

Maybe they will release it in the future? I don't have any information on that unfortunately.

@@Jasonoid hopefully fingers , thanks again for making great non-biased videos

It can charge with 120v input all the time, and run both inverters. So 120v input = 120v output and 240v output. When you charge it with 240v input, it disables all inverters so you can't power anything.

I think it's better to have the higher solar input voltage on the DP3 and the 240v inverter doesn't shut off when AC charging like it does on the Anker F3800. The DP3 is more expensive though... I made a whole video about getting around the "quirks" of the F3800 here: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XFlRkMm8rDc.htmlsi=GmKtwyWxJ7IkYb9u

I am not the expert. So listen to others for a final decision. But as a person in the same boat. If you are hooking to a smart home panel. The f3800 is better. Solely because it’s similar batter but 6k output. That’s the difference between a a/c, a tv and fridge. Or just an a/c If you wanted to say, charge during off peak hours or with panels. No smart panel. And just run fridges and computers etc. with the unit in house. Get the dp3. Every time. But if you wanted to do a whole house backup. With smart hub. Get the f3800. Mainly because the price to the party is so different. If you want to expand and expand and expand. Ecoflow is better overall. But you buy one f3800. You get 6k output and almost 4K battery. Dp3 you get 4K output. And 4K battery. So now you want to upgrade. A year later. Whatever. Maybe you catch a great sale. Two f3800 is going to have 12k output. That’s your entire house. I don’t care where you live. I have 3 A/c units and 4,600 sq ft home. That can power all of it. Two dp3. That’s 8k output. That can power 85% of the homes out there. So if you’re in the 85%. Good. But if you needed the extra push. You need a third unit. (That’s whole home backup.) and fortunately. The dp3 can get a third unit. The f3800 cannot. But now you’re $12,000 in. (Hopefully you get tax credit.) And you have 12,000 watt output. And 12,000 battery. And that’s awesome. That’s a lot. But you are $12,000 in. F3800. You have 12,000 output and 8,000ish battery. But you’re, with sales. $6,500 in. Which, you could easily wait for a sale. A bundle. Whatever. Buy extra batteries. Now if you have solar. Right now on your roof. The reason to really consider f3800. When it has smart hub installed it reads how much power is coming from solar. How much is being used on the house. And then it charges up with the excess. The other systems to my knowledge do not have that ability. Maybe they can update. No clue. But Anker is the only one with ac coupling. So if you have solar panels right now. Done. Anker. But if I had to choose right now. No solar on my roof. I just want to buy a couple panels and set something up in the yard. Shed. Whatever. I would use ecoflow. Mainly because every single source says Anker is more or less trying to shoehorn people into their panels. And their panels are great. But it’s $1000 for 400 watt panels. I can buy the same renelogy panels off Amazon for $400ish. So you want to buy 1600w in panels that’s $4000 or so from Anker. Or, you do the work arounds which are very possible. (He attached a video) or you can just get an ecoflow and plug and party for $1600. A massive price difference. If I lived in a one A/C house. I personally would get the ecoflow. Since I don’t. It’ll probably be Anker only because I live in California and they seem to look at previous systems and time of use. And others don’t.

You can "shoehorn" anyone into specific panels. Every solar panel has wires with a voltage coming out, you either buy an adapter or cut the ends off and terminate with a proper cable. If your solar panels don't come with MC4 you should probably look elsewhere 😅. Also if you need more than a thousand watts worth of panels you should be seriously looking at getting a pallet or partial pallet of panels delivered. You can get brand new 30 year warranty Aptos panels for less than $.30/W. Usually there is a minimum order quantity, for example signature solar has a minimum of 10, but you're going to get way more. I just got during their spring sale an EG4 LL-S 5kWh battery and 3700W of solar panels for ~$2600 to my door.

There are so many awesome settings in the smart app it would take 30 minutes to go through. My video was already 35 minutes long. Average view duration is like 8 minutes, I don't think talking about the smart app for 30 minutes is going to help. Maybe in a separate video?

@@Jasonoid yesss awesome...questione Is Simply....has PV priority mode? Thanks a lot

I think they are coming out with a new solar panel kickstand design on their portables.

Good point about the weight and shipping.

I think that's for their Smart Home Panel 2 installation program. They only have certified installs in a couple states right now.

No, they just connect to the main unit.

You can get 4000w out and 1800w input at the same time

@@Jasonoid that's fantastic!!!

If the generator is an 'inverter generator' putting out a pure sine wave, yes.

I'm pretty sure they are coming out with a Delta 3 and a River 3 lineup sometime soon.

nm lol

Glad I covered that 👍😂

Infinifity port, special adapter.

@@Jasonoid thank you

The inverter size of the DP3 matches it's internal battery size (4000w and 4096wh) The inverter size of the F3800 is 6000w and the battery is 3800wh. It's almost a 2 to 1 ratio on the F3800.

The Bluetti AC300 and AC500 both have 30 amp DC outputs and 120v 30 amp AC inverters. I'm pretty sure the first Delta Pro had those same specs as well 👍

The Delta Pro 3600 has a 30 amp RV receptical and a 30 amp DC Anderson connector. With no split phase 240 volt unless you connector 2 of them with their hub.

@@pstoneking3418 Thanks!

as far as i know, it has the 120V/30A output port.

Looks like Ecoflows website has a $500 off coupon during the launch. So at least for right now, you can get one at 80 cents per watt hour

I'm wondering why they only provided the coupon for a free power insight tablet for my viewers VS the $500 off on the website. Interesting decisions.

@@Jasonoidyeah. That is weird. Side note: I follow pretty much all power station videos by a large number of presenters on RU-vid. Your videos are my favorite. Thank you for sharing all the details on these machines. I would like to know the fan noise when not under full load. Say 2000 watts. Does the DP3 fan noise stay at 30 dB as advertised by EcoFlow?

@@criticalhadlock886 yes, it's nearly silent under a 2000w load in the inverter. When charging the fans do turn on but they aren't very loud.

Correct, 240v input disables the inverters. Maybe it will be upgraded later?

@@Jasonoid I’d hope so. Without it, I might as well get a Delta Max 2. Actually, I prefer the BLUETTI AC200P …

@@TheCornucopiaProject-bd5jk I charge with solar 99% of the time. 1800w of AC charging is fine with me. My constant loads are around 800w to 1000w on my critical loads panel.

@@Jasonoid I need it for mobile use, with limited amounts of solar. It’s different from home/cabin use. So my best bet is still to use a 240v-J adapter and a 240v/48v European charge controller to charge a server rack housebank. It’s expensive though.

4096wh X 90% efficient = 3686wh 120v @ 30 amps = 3600 watts Runtime is calculated by 3686wh / 3600w = 1.02 hours To get reasonable runtime you'll want to run critical loads only You'll get longer runtimes with solar input (2300 watts is reasonable on this unit) or picking up expansion batteries.

I'm guessing so, I don't see why they wouldn't be enabled. I don't have a cable that uses the other port to test with.

The fans are louder than the Ultra, nothing is more quiet than the Ultra.

Yep, there is no Delta Pro 2, just the 3.

I'm guessing the ground would behave similarly on both the 120v and 240v output. Charging from AC power is grounded Not charging is floating

@@Jasonoid the reason I ask is for 240v the inverter is running full time, where as 120v is passthrough. Do you mind testing it when you have a chance?

@@JoeyDee86 I just tested for you: -240v output is floating when not AC charging from 120 -240v output is grounded when AC charging.

@@Jasonoid interesting, thank you! I’m asking because in my RV I wanted a 2nd auto transfer switch, and those can be fussy with floating neutrals. Basically switch between shore/generator, then going into another switch that goes between DP input and DP output, so if there’s shore power or generator, it would charge the DP, but when there isn’t, the DP would power.

Works with the DP batteries though.

You can buy an xt150 adapter that connects to the expansion battery port to get the alternator charger connected. Yes it's compatible with it.

THANKS ❤❤❤❤❤😊😊😊😊​@@Jasonoid

I tried that and got stuck inside for about 30 minutes. Never gonna try that again!

I feel ya!

I still appreciate you watching and commenting. Good things will come your way!

There actually is an unannounced $500 off coupon right now. Not sure why they didn't tell me it would be available. So it has a slight discount off retail.

It's 4000 watts, you chose 120v or 240v. That's plenty of power to run critical loads. During a power outage you don't run a clothes dryer or all the electronics / appliances in your house.

@@Jasonoid That's a rather disingenuous response, and You know it ! Look Mr. Salesman - I don't care what you say ! 16.6 Amps is NOT ENOUGH CURRENT TO RUN MANY CRITICAL LOADS ! It's not even enough current to run some stove ovens and air conditioners. Yes, it is enough current to run (modern) well pumps. In order to do an effective critical loads home backup, one needs 30 to 50 Amperes of current. Why ? This is due to the way most residential homes are wired to North American UL and CSA standards and local electrical codes. The core wiring of most 100 Amp service houses are mainly on 12 circuits, with a total of 24 to 36 circuits. You need enough current to typically be able to run at least 12 seperate home circuits in your house. This is 4 x 4. Or 12 divided by 4. 1. Kitchen. 2. bedroom. 3. living room. 4. Basement with the Basement and kitchen containing all or most of the 240 Volt AC loads. Electrical physics and math doesn't lie ! 16.6 Amps is a bizarre, arbitrary limit, which is insufficient for any level of home backup.

@@markjob6354 I'm not a sales person and I didn't tell anyone to buy this product. I only provided detailed testing data 👍 ... I guess we have a different perspective on what critical loads are. Running large 240v appliances will empty anyone's battery system in hours, even server rack batteries... A 4000watt AC? A 5000watt electric stove? In an extended outage run a microwave, or a window AC unit. You have to be aware of your loads while running off a battery and make a cognitive change vs normal power usage.

@@Jasonoid I never suggested one not take awareness of critical loads versus unnecessary loads in a power out, home backup scenario, but feeding 240 Volts AC into a home wired circuit box with under-current supply will not only overwhelm power battery reserves of the solar genny, and/or external, extra batteries quickly, but also heat up wires and generate possibly dangerous levels of circuit heating, as the rising resistance of the under current supplied circuit creates a runaway reaction. The OG EcoFlow Delta Pro is actually a safer proposition electricly, because A) Delta Pro's only have (1) One AC inverter circuit. B) The inverter is a lower Voltage AC @ 120 Volts. C) You need two of the OG Delta Pro's connected to produce 240 Volts AC, but this resulted in a much higher current output of roughly 30 Amps, versus the single DP3's 16.6 Ampere 240 Volts AC output capability. I would personally not connect only one DP3 to a home power box, rather, I would get the new 50 Amp Voltage Hub and connect 2 x DP3's in split phase, before using them as a home power backup solution.

@@markjob6354 at that point it's probably a better option to go with the Delta Ultra instead of two DP3s. More solar and a much more quiet setup that stacks vertically. The benefit to the Ultra is that if the inverter / charging system is completely separate from the battery system. So if the inverter or charging input has an issue, you can easily swap it out with a new unit, unlike the DP3 which is one solid unit with a battery (with lithium shipping restrictions).

Sounds like a great option! No pressure from me 👍

I had tons of people ask for it awhile back and now I get the first person for me to get rid of it 🤣😂 I ll do the tests people are asking for and I'll stop them if more people think the same thing.