A small tip for the moulds, once you know how much resin each one needs, write it with a permanent marker on the back of the mould so the info is always there.
If the mold is small enough, you could put it on a scale, tare the scale, then fill the mold with water. More precise volume measurement, and no risk of spilling the water out of the mold.
Good way to measure. I used water and it was a bit tippy cause I was pouring a seahorse. But it was fairly accurate. Will use rice next time. Thanks Steve!
Hi i just want to say thank you for all this help as a first time user to resin i need loads to learn wiah i saw this video last night before i struggled with my clean up defnantly a super help thanks 😊
I'm new to resin and I love what you have taught me so far. I will say that what I have done with resin that the water measuring has worked for me every time. That's funny. Thanks for teaching me 😀
For using water to measure the volume, just check the water level in your measuring cup before and after you pour water in your mold. Much easier and cleaner!
I first used resin years ago and all my bracelets that I cast had that nasty edge. I hadn't a clue what to do with them, since it was pre-RU-vid days, and ended up tossing the lot and giving up on resin.
I have always laminated my stickers. I make a huge batch and then run them through the laminator and store them in containers ready for use. Tape is a great alternative, just takes a bit longer.
I like to color the measurements on the cup with a sharpie then lightly wipe off the excess. It should have gotten ink into the cracks and grooves of numbers and lines
I have used my epoxy resin as instructions given. My resin on paintings have covered to a point but in large areas I have a puddle effect where no resin stayed in place can you help please. Great videos and very helpful
With the water, it would be easier to fill the container to a certain level, then fill the mold, then subtract the amount in the mold from your original amount in the original container. It is almost impossible to not spill, if you try to pour it from the mold into a second container.
You only need to put Part A in warm water but for about 20 mins and it will release the bubbles. By heating A & B together and heating in boiling water you will release toxic fumes. Try a different resin if I was you
I’ve had great success with heating in WARM water with Art Resin. Especially in the winter if your resin is chilled. Maybe the issue was purposely stirring in as many bubbles as you could get.ive done both ways if warming up just part A or (as I often do ) both because I forgot until I’d mixed it up and realized the bubbles weren’t rising.
@@SteveMcDonaldArtsandCrafts ok might have to try that too. another question...Im having trouble wearing the respirator mask, big time! what other mask do you suggest?
i think you've updated some of your hacks since this - but i know that putting the resin in hot water makes it more runny / less vicious which allows bubbles to release. Also, the heat DOES activate the resin causing it to cure faster. I've left my resin in a 120F/49C and it hardened beyond workable in less than 8 minutes ...
I don't like mixing, so I absolutely won't mix the resin for each mold separately. I figure out how many I want to do for that day and mix enough in a big container for all the molds I want to pour. Then, if I want different colors or whatever, I will then pour it into as many separate containers as I need for what I want to do, and then mix the colors into the separate containers. That means that I will still have to mix the different colors separately, but not for as long, because the resin and hardener will already be mixed enough.
Little tip those edges can be removed by a deburring tool and bubbles just spray isopropanol over it in a fine mist it will not I repeat not effect the finish and it pulls the bubbles up to the top and pops them even the micro bubbles..fact. as for cleaning isopropanol again it's what it's for even if you don't like it others will . Don't be bias your teaching/educating people
Greetings, I love your videos/tutorials. But if I may when you put the resin in the hot water, the key to get rid of the bubbles as well as give the resin more clarity is to stir while it's in the water. So before you totally ditch the hot water, try it again.
Do the water trick backwards. Start with a known amount of water in a graduated measuring cup. When the mold is full see how much water is left in the cup. The difference between your starting and ending amount is the amount of resin you need. 2nd grade math skills are needed, of course.
With regard to your coaster you were trying to get the sharp edges off, you can use that technique and on the edges where the resin didn't cover, you can use a toothpick to get it literally on the edge. Be careful not to go over the edge though. It works beautifully for doming as well.
Water measure: it is easier to do it this way; make sure the water in the original container is at an identifiable mark, pour into the mold and simply deduct the remaining amount from the original volume.
Hi Steve, You showed us how to find out how much resin you need for a certain mold, then you mentioned marking the side of the measuring cup with the resin but I think another good tip would be to mark on the mold how much it actually takes to fill the mold once you find out , don’t you agree?🤷🏼♀️
I recently came across your channel and subscribed after watching 2 videos. It is quite hard to find informative quality videos on resin. Your channel is exactly what I was looking for and I already have learned quite a bit. Thank you for your hard work!
I use the baby wipes to clean pots but just put a small squirt of hand sanitizer to clean anything it's cheap and works really well. I dicovered this myself as I am a newbie reesin crafter and have since seen a few others doing the same. Cheap babywipes are fine with the sanitizer. HJope this is useful xx
I enjoyed your tips! I've seen the warming of the resin too, but they put the individual bottles of resin and hardener in the warm water. This helps make the viscosity thinner, once mixed. The bubbles will rise quicker, since the resin is thinner. It does however, take longer to cure.
Regarding no.5 tip it is working as long as you put warm, not hot water and let the pot in the water for 10 to 15 minutes, not just 3 min.The idea is to warm slightly the resin ,not to heat it.The bubbles will dissapear and the resin becomes crystal clear.
Just found your channel( subscribed) and really like it. I've just became interested in working with resin and your channel is going to help me save allot of time and mistakes. I also like watching you experiment with adding different things to the resin ie. nail polish, acrylic paint etc. That's really nice information to have for a beginner like myself. Thanks much .
@4:11 …. Extra Tip: How to help PLEASURE ACCURATELY……… 🤣 🤣 🤣…… ok now Steve…I know you love to help people and give out great advice…. But, umm… uh…. Yeah…. lol….I nearly choked when I saw that!
To do the resin to make the bubbles go away faster is ya put the unmixed resins side a and b into hot water before you mix then after you mix it you allow it to sit for 5min and the bubbles come to the surface who ever told you to use boiling water is definitely wrong it’s hot tap water and un mixed then mix and allow to settle 5minutes then take a torch to the top and itl be bubble less I use this every time I do my resins!! I never heard of doing it after it’s mixed already maybe to cure it faster definitely but not to rerelease bubbles
Hi Steve, im trying to find the video for the island mould, i cant seem to find it, can you link it please? I did message you on the facebook page...thanks Lotty x
To be honest, I think all the bubbles appearing at 10:45 are not from underneath the sticker but created by the quick motion you did with the stick. What I found to be working perfectly for me is to first dip the sticker/paper completely on a clear resin cup (using tweezers) and then place it on the mold and PRESS DOWN with my figers (of course, wearing gloves) and carefully move it where I want. After a while, the piece of paper will rise up a bit but not all the way to the top, and there will be no bubbles under.
I've got another tip for the stickers or little pictures you might want to put into resin, this also really helps with placing them as well. Instead of placing them face down in a clear resin layer when you first start, put them face up after you've popped the piece out of the mold and put a thin layer, or dome, over the image. This is after you've sealed it of course. Also you can use the way you seal it to adhere the image to the piece. If you use tape, just tape the side with the pic, cut around it a bit so it fits on with leaving a little clear around the edges, and push it down well so the tape sticks to the resin base. Also if you use glue, stick the piece down with a thin layer of glue, then do the top layer(s) of glue you use over the top and a little off around the pic as well. I've found this works really well and it gets rid of the problem of not positioning the images correctly, like I said before.
With stickers or a picture or paper pour the resin let it cure then glue your object down then pour a thin layer of resin on top depending on the object you may not have to use glue
I have a tip instead of pouring the water in the mold first and trying to transfer it to the measuring cup. Pour the water in the measuring cup FIRST and measure that amount, then pour the water in the mold. See what is left in the measuring cup after that and subtract that amount from what you started with. So much easier!
Thank you so much for your helpful hints. I fill my moulds with water to see how much resin I will need, but I use a 5 ml syringe and just add up the total, that way if I spill any emptying the water out, I already have the total.
When you are using water to find out how much you need put it on a scale and measure how much you need in gm and mix your resin in grams, I never it out in cup sizes always on a scale. Heating the resin before you mix it helps to get fewer bubbles
For your little paper sticker, couldn't you paint each side lightly with UV resin, curing before flipping, to prep them? just thinking you might get a better match of refractive indexes rather than with just Sellotape...
Thank you for all of these!!! Do you have a video on what to do if you DO accidentally overpour resin on a top coat? So many tutorials say 'make sure not to overpour' but I cant find any on what to do if/when it does happen. I'm the klutiest person I know, so I shpuld say 'when I overpaur, what can I do to fix it? Anyways, you're always a blast to watch & I really do appreciate this particular video! 👏👏👏👏👏
I'm really paranoid about microplastics ending up out in our ocean so I'm not sure how to dispose of the soapy water after I've cleaned up my mixing containers. Have thought maybe putting a bit of material over a bucket and straining the water through that to catch any small bits of resin. Not sure of another way around it.
@ 7:40 actually fussy-cutting is just cutting it out, not cutting it out with a boarder. This is a really great idea, though. …almost like laminating it but with packing tape.
I wish I would've known about taping the paper for.putting in resin I make memorial products and I've been laminating photos so I can use then in a pour
Fill the water Cup upto an even line ,100ml then pour it into the mold and when the mold is full look to see what left in the cup ,so if there 25ml left then the mold holds 75ml
Water is defo more accurate I do mine on the sink edge so I don't need to lift it just tilt a bit plus remember some water will not come away from the mould then put it down in my resin diary for future reference or I use the epoxy calculator in the app store it's the dogs b's for all resin
