Hi climbers, enjoy the new video and watch the whole ascent with my commentary in my membership section ⏩ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_sJLuf6tTK8.html. See you there ✊
My 6 year old son came running across the room when he heard Adam working the boulder start since he thought his breathing was Darth Vader. Sadly he was a bit disappointed to see it was Adam Ondra. One day he'll realize Adam is way more powerful than Vader...
I love that Adam is talking about how style influences grade. It really illustrates how academic the grading discussion really is at the top end of the scale
It's really cool that Adam is climbing Inga in the rain, the same conditions that forced Koyamada to establish the route in the first place, the shots of the waterfall are epic!! Really amazing video Adam!
Congrats ! That's a few minutes from my home, thrilled that you came here and send tour "project" :) i would have loved to meet you in person ! Cheers !
Adam! Do you know what would also make a pretty good day? Checking out DNA of Seb Bouin! No need to climb it just yet, just have a look and show us the amazing route with your cinematography 😊
Being able to project and send a new route in a day is insane. We sometimes think “it’s only 8c+/9A” because it’s ondra. But 99% of climbers could project 8c+ their whole life and not send. My mind is blown by Adam.
Adam è un esempio di vita. Non solo è un climber unico, ma una persona positiva al massimo. Sempre sorridente, gentile, mai pieno di sé. Mi ricorda a tratti come modo di porsi Manolo. Per fortuna non messner
Very cool! Darth grader says 8A+ boulder -> good rest -> 8c route is 9a :) But he seemed to suggest that both the boulder problem and the route are easier with kneepads, thus hard 8c+ overall.
always nice to take down a route that eludes you for so long. It seems that knee pad still didn't help much with a nasty looking cut, wonder if that was what half the power screams were about lol
It is interesting when you are young that even a grade harder that you have ever climbed might seem like an impossibility. There was a climb Kachung (21) at Mount Arapiles (Australia) which was my dream climb when the hardest i had done was an 18. My wake up call came when i did No Exit (25) without even knowing the grade. If you are young and still growing, don't get down if you can't seem to climb something, you're body might just be a little to small at the time; climb anything that you enjoy, and it will all come together.
Darth grader gives 9a for the combination of a 8A+ boulder and a 8c route, even if there were a good rest in between. This rest doesn‘t look so good to me…
U shuld have done it again, and this time how it was intended! 2 routes in one! Why not?? One is for free and is even more difficult/challanging on the second wey!
super cool! but a missed opportunity to educate newer climbers about climbing with rain and different types of rock etc. on when it is okay and not okay to climb with rain/wet rock. recent stuff that happened in bleau is a good example why this is important from a major name in the sport. to stop whining: this is a really cool video never the less.
I don't understand why you are increasingly resorting to artificial aids such as Kneepads. Isn't it a step backwards in climbing? If you are climbing 9c routes for the first time and it was only possible with kneepads, ok. But why on so many other routes?
Do you want to go back to the old climbing shoes aswell? No heel hooks if the first ascent did not use them? You could make the exact same argument for those, climbing evolves.
@@miro.enzenberger_climbing The argument is utter nonsense. There is a consensus in the climbing world to use climbing shoes, barefoot and chalk for a clean approach style. Now a new, additional artificial aid has been added in the form of kneepads. This is a step backwards and you see it more and more often. Routes/Boulders that were previously first climbed without Kneepads are now being repeated with Kneepads, giving them an advantage that has been created by an additional, artificial aid. And it makes a big difference whether I can relieve the strain on my arms/fingers by using kneepads or not.
@@youcube6317 It is not, there has never been a consensus on almost anything but a constant discussion about it. There still are people who consider preplaced draws cheating. Shoes have evolved in a way that they can be considered similar to kneepads, especially on old overhanging routes they are a huge advantage. I do agree that the grades are often not the same, but thats a problem with honesty, not with the kneepads. If it makes them that much easier downgrade them. "pornography" in ceüse is a good example with a lot of people keeping the grade even with the kneebar (which is usable without a kneepad as well but you can no-hand with). Kneepads are not exactly new either, they were just not common except in select areas until recently. Kneebars just represent a step up in a new possible technique, which some can use well and others cannot, very similar to heelhooks in that aspect. You still have pros saying that they are bad in heelhooks since oldschool spraywall ethics discouraged those.
@@youcube6317 Are crack-gloves ok? Same thing. Its just a new technique, you can embrace it or not, it just adds another possibility to climbing and something new to master. Modern shoes on old overhanging routes are a huge advantage but we dont use old shoes, we downgrade the route if it is a huge difference, exactly what Adam does in this video. Same thing could be said for heelhooks, they used to be rare and old shoes didnt perform well for those (and spraywall ethics limited learning them) but you would never say they are forbidden on a route if the FA did not use them. IMO kneepads are not the problem, dishonesty in grading is. If a kneebar makes the route much easier, give it a lower grade.
@@miro.enzenberger_climbing Not every new technology advances sport. That is precisely the flaw in the discussion. You shouldn't devalue routes/boulders just because they were later mastered with artificial aids. That is absurd and diminishes the achievement of the first climbers. Instead, everyone should say in what style they climbed the route/boulder. But because many people are only interested in grades, that's where it gets dishonest in this sport.
Its interesting to see how quickly Adam plugs back in now after failing and letting out his yell. Honestly I think doing comps has helped him with that. You can actually see him reset almost immediately
Very impressive, extremelly hard at the bottom and still very demanding till the top, even for Adam. What about this new way of exhausting the air like a horse ? I watched a video of Cedric Lachat onsighting Chimpanzodrome (Saussois, France), he was breething the same way😂.
I don't know man, seeing Adam fighting like that and needing two tries (plus the experience on the route from back then) makes me think of 9a/+ rather than 8c+.
