I saw another video on this welder and the earthing wire was the wrong gauge (too thin) and would over heat. Also it is very particular as to the rods it will work with. In the end the conclusion was that it was ok for small occasional use but not for professional use. Great video. Keep up the good work.
That last test i did on the bench there i basically tried to just run it for a full stick and it didnt seem hot at all i was surprised! And thanks appreciate the comment
I appreciate this video. I bought a similar model of this type of arc welder. I had so many unanswered questions that I didn’t get around to actually using it. Thank you. Not sure if you aware that you dropped the technical information I was looking for.(operation on a 20 amp breaker plus extension cord) hope you continue to show us you experimenting with your welder. If so please let us know which welding rods work best with different gauge metal and which brand of welding rod works best for the welder. By the way my welder came with no instructions what so ever and no welding rods. Oddly I’m also welding on my Jeep. Thank you again.
Ive heard they can be kinda finnicky with what rods work so its probably just a test and find out kinda thing. But yeah it ran with no issues on the 20amp breaker 100%. I'll probably do more jeep videos, but with other tools. Maybe ill paint my whole jeep with a temu spray gun or something haha
Sweet rig dude. Have you tried this thing yet? "TOOLIOM 3 in 1 Cut/TIG/MMA Welder 50A Air Plasma Cutter 200A TIG and 200A Stick Welder Portable Welding Machine Dual Voltage 110&220V". If it does all that for $300 I might have to get one.
link not workd, but if u search for "handheld welder" u will find it. (btw mine stopped working after 3-5 minutes of use, i returned, now waiting for replacement. will see if that working for longer)
@@UnboxAnalysisOfficial 130a (1/8 7018 rods) 30degrees dragging , dont weave much , wait for it to fill the gap , dont look at what is a tad darker ( molten slag) only the brightest of your puddle is the metal you are adding. Weld should look like this L\ not lUl and not lOl. No holes in the weld after defluxing, and finally , if there is slag between a weld and the base metal (in a case of l0l) buff it and start over ... its the most i can do just writing ... i wish i could add images. best is to look at ''principal welding defects'' on google image : all you will see is a dont ..... sadly there is no magic trick ... just melting rods over and over make someone better ... By the way . that was the best video of that welding machine.
