Vacuums need static pressure more than speed of airflow, and I think that's where the designed impellor let you down. Excellent first attempt, and I look forward to seeing updates
What is an improvement to the impellor he can make? otherwise this is just restating existing ideas but not directly relevant to a centrifugal impeller design
@@htko89 Just getting an older, small ordinary vacuum cleaner and using the impeller and impeller housing from that is probably the easiest choice.... Static pressure fans/impellers are actually really, really hard to design correctly. They need much tighter tolerances and gaps than you can get with a 3D printer :)
If it fails again you could maybe use a higher strength plastic (“creep” of the plastic due to centrifugal force and also the heat are a concern, although ABS and Air Cooling Holes seems to be working!), and/or could *maybe* consider a thrust bearing. Also, I don’t know if it is a problem yet for this (the plastic’s low weight may be helping, along with the already good tolerances of FDM 3D Printing), but if I remember correctly *Turbine Balancing* becomes a major issue. The Old School Method for this is using a Rotary Tool on the “high side” a bit, checking to see if that fixed it via a special tool/jig, then rinse and repeat until it is sufficiently balanced. There is a modern method where you basically laser ablate away the unbalanced bits *while it is spinning on the test rig*. I guess those are some solutions that came to my mind in order of increasing complexity. (Probably plenty of good ideas on your own / other comments i just thought I’d throw them out there)
@@greatscottlab Yep! But, I'll watch anything that you make.. not for only the stuff you make.. but, for your amazing conte.nt and the stuff you make as well.
@@greatscottlab That would be awesome to see! You may remember my comment with a suggestion from a few years ago, building your own vacuum. Maybe it will become a reality soon. 😄
Fun bit of experimenting. But I'd point out that most centrifugal blowers/pumps have a flow vs 'head' trade off. If you design a rotor for maximum flow rates, it probably will not develop much differential pressure. And vice versa. The differential pressure can be important when you think about how you need to draw the air through a dusty filter bag.
This is spot on, the reason it didn't perform well. Plot flow rate vs pressure for the fan and it is a curve that slopes down. Plot the same for the filter system and it is a curve that slopes up. The point that the lines cross is the flow rate you get when you connect them together - the real world solves your simultaneous equations for you 😛 Regardless of the misunderstood engineering, it is pretty impressive to get useful vaccum performance from 3d prints!
Am building DIY Vacuum cleaners for like 3 years now as part of my hobby and here are some tips that could help: 1. As someone in comments already pointed out, vacuums need static presure cuz when u "block" that properel with a *filter* it behave like if u block the intake. It will just spin without actually sucing anything. Maybe thats also why u had so little powerdraw. Cuz if u block the intake its like in a vacuum, there is no air resistance so the motor can achive desired RPM without drawing so much current. 2. Most comercal vacuum cleaners use some form of flexible material as a housing for motor with propeler. Its for reducing some unwanted noise from vybration of the propeler. When I was printing that housing I used TPU. I was able to make it completly silent with it so I could only hear the airflow. 3. 3D printers cant make a perfect propeler. Its not posible. Due to uneven infill or some extrusions... You cant make a perfect circle. It will vybrate and that can couse some problems for the bearing inside the motor. I personally killed multiple motors for this so I just switched back to DC motors. Cuz they are cheap and relatively easy to control. The best "circles" I had was when I had these setings in my slicer: seams setuped at random, 3-4 perimeters, avoind crosing perimeters - true, hexagonal reduced infill, z-hop (I used PETG) and I usualy print on higher temperatures. This reduce visual quality but highly increasing the strengh and lifespan of the propeler. (once my propeler exploded and it was not nice, so strengh is more important than look) 4. In your design you needed to make the housing bigger becouse your propeler was scratching the housing. Keep an eye on this cuz the bigger is housing the less airflow u can achive. With these I was able to make a vacuum cleaner that was stronger than the original one and also more silent. Fun fact, I build 2 last year and one is workin to this day. The other one died cuz it accidentaly inhaled a cake with a screw when I didnt had filter on it... So it exploded... EDIT 1: Just to make things clear, am not eating a "screw cake" I was eating a cake next to some screws cuz I was repairing a PC EDIT 2: I forgot to say that I printed TPU housing with 0.8mm nozzle. Idk why but 0.4mm print was absorbing less noise. 0.8mm is silent for unknown reason EDIT 3: Propeler was printed in PETG and the feature "avoid crosing perimeters" are just need cuz PETG is stringing as hell so with that setting there are almost no strings EDIT 4: That silent cleaner was handy for myself cuz I was doing a lot of vacuuming near a 1yo baby that is scared from a loud noise.
While working on my centrifugal supercharger project i learned a few things 1) if you are running abl, drop the z fade height to 1mm and add 5-7 raft layers, this will prevent elephant's foot and will make your part more even (remember abl doesn't make your bed level, it just compensates for it) 2) 5-7 perimeters are required (since mine needs to spin at 50k minimum 3) use abs, (with the air resistance and pressure it will heat up) Inrunner bldc motors are the way to go since they have the highest power to kV ratio You need speed, but also power. 4 to prevent distortion, fully allow your print bed to cool down before taking the prints off 5) the clearances have to be as small as possible (since you increment efficiency the closer the blades are to the wall 6) the impeller design does matter, but you have bigger things to worry about than that. 7) you need to balance the impeller...
@@sinceRENEss Yeh that sounded weird :D Just to make things clear, I was eating a cake while repairing my PC so I had pile of screws next to my cake :D So that cleaner inhaled both at the same time.
The thing about your impeller is that you ended up reducing the diameter. If you want to design one with real math, i can give you a few steps that are usually involved. 1. Find the max speed you can turn. 2. Find the cross section of the inlet. 3. Find the cylindrical surface area of your outlet. 4. With speed at the inlet you get volume flow. 5. With pressure at the inlet you get mass flow. 6. With mass flow, area of inlet and outlet and tangential speed of impeller at the inlet and outlet you get the angle of attack of your impeller at both ends. 7. The number of fins will impact static pressure if i remember right. The maths for all of this isnt really hard, you just need to understand relative speed, conservation of mass and rotational/tangential speed relation.
The pressure is difficult to measure. you can suppose costant temperature and specific volume to find out the mass flow. For the fins, a potential problem is the dimension of each duct beetwen two fins must be sufficient to let pass small object. One of the biggest improvement he can do is to redesign the exit section, the holes are too small
Great Scott thank you for another great video! What we learn from failures and suboptimal outcomes are often more important than what we learn from our successes. I really enjoyed watching what you learned from each iteration. I also loved the premise of the project which was essentially "I don't have to do this, I just want to."
I'm not an electronics engineer but everything that is broken gets taken apart. To see if I can fix it, find the error or at least learn how that thing works.
Increase the surface area of the impeller. The airflow of an impeller is defined by the speed (as you pointed out) and its surface area. By increasing the number of fins or by increasing its size overall, you can increase the airflow quite considerably. In my last blower project, I needed a 150% increase in airflow. This was just about manageable without changing the motor by increasing the impeller size by 30%. At that point, the torque of the motor reached its limit. Bear in mind though that higher torque generates more heat. You can temper PLA and ABS (and almost all plastics) in a home oven to greatly increase its tolerance to heat, although it will result in shrinkage. The Formfutura Volcano PLA filament is a good option here, too, as it allows you to temper the parts with minimal shrinkage.
tempering in general is not an option, there is a good amount of shrinkage and even if going for the method using sand or salt as fillter to prevent warping it'll still not work out well enough for the tolerances here as you need two perfectly flat surfaces. CNC Kitchen has some great videos already and it's just plain better to go for higher temp filaments and ABS honestly works just fine
It's a trade off of a lot of things. The more air flow, the more power demanded by the motor as well. And you need to develop at least some amount of differential pressure to draw the desired air flow through the nozzle, wand attachment, filter bag (probably the biggest impediment) and so on. And dP is more a function of enclosed diameter with minimal bypass leakage. So many things to experiment... so little time. :)
@@MaxC_1 Good point, Max, that the shrinkage of tempering might be an issue; at the same time, the majority of the heat will be focused on the housing surrounding the motor, not the impeller or impeller cover, so the tolerances are not that tight. ABS starts to deform at a little over 100C, which, as you said, may be sufficiently heat tolerant for the context. That said, depending on the efficiency, draw current, and torque capabilities of the motor, it can get hotter. If it does, tempering/annealing the motor housing may help, especially if using a specialty filament.
@@christophlawrence if ABS isn’t heat tolerant enough you can always go for a high temp nylon or carbon fibre reinforced nylon or something like polycarbonate.
As others have mentioned, you'll need to work on static pressure. A lot of impellers will put the outside wall of the enclosure onto the impeller itself, that way they don't have to try to get the blades close to the walls for better pressure. I'm curious what you could get away with just replacing the stock motor with a subtable BLDC motor with better speed than the brushed motor.
Repairing and/or reusing things with 3D printed parts is probably my favorite thing about 3D printing. I've got so many broken things in my house that I've kept going just by printing a few cents' worth of plastic, y'know, like "you thought I was done with you just because your grip broke? bitch I'm gonna make a whole new housing as long as your motor's still spinning" xD
@@AttilaTheHun333333 Probably trying to say that the print volume of most printers is too small to make a complete housing, as well as the excessive time required for design and printing, in comparison to making only the grip.
I love the idea of fighting e-waste, but you replaced the battery and its board, the impeller, the motor and the speed controller. The only thing that's left of the vacuum is the shell. And you made 4 plastic prints along the way.
That's true, but now it's open source, and can be fixed or tweaked as desired. If your goal in doing a repair is just to save money on the first repair, it's better just to be like everybody else and toss everything in the trash and buy more junk. Repairing never pays off on your first try. But as you build up a workshop, and skills and knowledge, you learn not only how to fix things, but how to improve them. We need more people like that. For example, now if his impellor breaks, he can print a new one. If a battery cell goes bad, he can replace that single cell. And so on and so forth.
Thanks for all your videos Scott! This is like the best channel on youtube. I am working on something similar and had an impeller get friction welded to the housing haha!
Haha! Love the Makita mod. I modded the small vacuum I have in my office at work to take a DeWalt battery last year. Everyone laughs but it works great, the battery charges super quick, and I can swap the batteries quickly. All it took was a cordless impact one of our techs dropped from a tall scissor lift. Now I need to supersize the motor and impeller to take it up another notch.
The old design of the propeller is there for a reason. It’s not all about flow, but also about the relationship with the pressure. Use the old design, with a new stronger motor (higher rpm, too) and you’ll be rock solid.
Excelent video! I would suggest using the old impeller of the vacuum cleaner but mounted on a higher kv bldc. If you could double the rpm, it would be amazing. That should increase both airflow and static pressure. The factory impeller should be stronger and better ballanced than the 3d printed one.
Been watching for 8 years now (since the Bluetooth speaker in the bathroom video ), man even has a gf now. Time indeed does fly. Continue killing man🔥💯👏🏾
Something that I find that most people probably dont think of is using 3D printing to print templates. For instance, when you put the potentiometer on the outside and set on labels, you could also 3D print a ring with marks and letters like Low and High and then trace the holes with a paint marker. This is also nice especially when you want to mount something to a wall. Say you have either a tv mount or a power strip that has screws it needs to hook onto but you have no idea what the spacing should be because it is at an odd angle or you are worried about it being crooked. You can measure the holes with calipers and print out a single or double layer template and get the locations exactly.
Why waste time and materials 3D printing a template when a simple sheet of paper and a pencil will do? Put paper against mount, rub pencil across to get the indentations, there's your template. Or if you want to be fancy, measure it, draw it in a free CAD program and print it on a sheet of paper. The reason most people don't think of what you said is because it's an inefficient and slow solution to a very simple problem.
This is a valuable lesson to all those who thing manufacturers don't care. They actually do spend considerable time perfecting their products, while trying to limit the cost as much as possible.
I have designed multiple fans/impellers/pumps etc. It is borderline maddening to get something balanced and turning at high speed on a 3d printer to work well.
As an experienced mechanic/engineer allow me to make a couple suggestions of some things to improve your vacuum cleaner build. First of all, you have to pay attention to the static pressure (less pressure equals less vacuum power and vice verse) Static pressure is a measure of the force exerted by a fluid, such as air, against a surface or obstruction. In the context of a vacuum cleaner, static pressure plays a crucial role in determining the machine's ability to pick up dirt and debris effectively. moving on When looking to replace the electric motor, impeller, and impeller casing of a vacuum cleaner, there are several factors to consider. Here are some important aspects to keep in mind: 1. Power requirements (It is advisable that voltage and power is in range of the original motor if not changing the impeller/casing.) 2. Motor type and design (Brushless motors are generally more efficient, durable, and have a longer lifespan compared to brushed motors) 3. Impeller specifications (Pay attention to the diameter, thickness, and intake hole of the impeller. Changes in impeller size can affect the static pressure and overall performance of the machine.) 4. Impeller casing compatibility (The impeller casing is designed to house and direct the airflow generated by the impeller. The impeller and casing should fit together properly to ensure efficient airflow and prevent any air leakage. Also make sure that the impeller and the casing are compatible with each other.) 5. Quality and durability (Consider the quality and durability of the replacement components.) 6. Installation considerations (Check if any additional modifications or adjustments are required to fit the new motor, impeller, and impeller casing properly.) Moving on Material used to build the impeller and the casing plays a crucial role in generating static pressure as well as better performance etc. They can be made from various types of plastics, such as ABS (Acrylonitrile Butadiene Styrene) or polypropylene. Here are some Pros/Cons for plastic and metal impellers and casings: Advantages of plastic: - Cost-effective: Plastic components are generally less expensive to produce compared to metal parts. - Lightweight: Plastic impellers and casings help keep the overall weight of the vacuum cleaner low, making it easier to maneuver. - Corrosion resistance: Plastic is naturally resistant to corrosion, which can be beneficial in environments where moisture or cleaning solutions are present. - Design flexibility: Plastic parts can be molded into complex shapes, allowing for optimized airflow and performance. Disadvantages of plastic: - Lower strength: Plastic impellers and casings may not be as strong as their metal counterparts, making them more prone to breakage or deformation under high stress or impact. - Heat resistance: Some plastics may have limitations in terms of their ability to withstand high temperatures. This can be a concern if your vacuum cleaner operates at high temperatures or encounters hot debris. Advantages of metal: - Strength and durability: Metal impellers and casings are generally stronger and more resistant to deformation or breakage under high stress or impact. - Heat resistance: Metal parts can withstand higher temperatures, making them suitable for vacuum cleaners that operate at elevated temperatures or encounter hot debris. - Enhanced performance: Metal impellers can provide improved performance due to their ability to maintain their shape and generate higher static pressure. Disadvantages of metal: - Weight: Metal components are generally heavier than plastic, which can add to the overall weight of the vacuum cleaner. - Cost: Metal impellers and casings tend to be more expensive to produce compared to plastic parts. - Corrosion risk: Depending on the specific metal used, there may be a risk of corrosion if the vacuum cleaner is exposed to moisture or corrosive cleaning solutions. ***** Now, to help you with the design of an impeller and the casing.***** - There are several impeller types used in vacuum cleaners, and the efficiency can vary depending on the specific design and application. However, one commonly used impeller type known for its efficiency is the centrifugal or radial impeller. - Centrifugal impellers consist of curved blades that rotate within a housing. As the impeller spins, it creates a centrifugal force that pushes the air outward, generating suction and creating airflow. These impellers are efficient at generating high static pressure and can effectively move air and debris through the vacuum cleaner's system. - Another type of impeller used in some high-efficiency vacuum cleaners is the multi-stage or dual-stage impeller. These impellers consist of multiple stages or sets of blades that progressively increase the pressure as air passes through each stage. This design allows for enhanced suction and airflow performance. - Keep in mind of the shape of the impeller itself and impeller casing, you have to make the design of both in such a way that when operating you can have maximum of the airflow from that turbine. The inside shape plays key role in how will Air flow thru the turbine. - In your case (with printed impeller and casing) to improve a bit you can consider polishing the surface of both, it will help the air pass thru the casing better (less resistance due to rough surfaces of the printed parts) It's important to note that the efficiency of a vacuum cleaner relies on various factors beyond just the impeller type, including the motor power, filtration system, airflow design, and overall construction. Manufacturers often develop proprietary designs and technologies to optimize the performance and efficiency of their vacuum cleaners. Anyway, I am sorry for the long text but it is still not enough to fit it all in the comment. Just to justify my self, I have plenty experience in maintaining turbo compressors, turbines, compressors, high and low pressure compressors or pumps, or any equipment which is directly or indirectly connected to pneumatic and hydraulic systems. Keep up great channel and content
Dude you are one lucky man! I wish I had a wife that only talks in subtitles. I would imagine she would be mad if you blinked for a long time if you guys faught though.
Trial and error is where great things start. This is already a job well done because you managed to figure everything out and make something out of the things you have lying around.
Really enjoy your videos. You are always so creative and patient and I normally learn something left-field, which is what it's all about. Well done and keep going!
I would love a deep dive into why that 500W brushless controller wouldn't spin up that standard brushless motor. I have a project I'm working on that where I had the exact same problem with that board, but could never figure out why the 3 different versions of that controller I had would not work with any of my motors.
Magnets are glued. Glue loosens with heat build up. This centrifugal impeller doesn't use the air-flow to cool the motor. You could use aerodynamics that allow using the same air to cool the motor. BLDC works best this way.
You are the type of guy that I would trust. If YOU recommended a product that I was in the market for, I wouldn't hesitate to buy it! You are a *VERY TRUSTWORTHY* engineer!
My pet peeve is the noise of these things. I wonder how quiet you can get it at a given performance level. Perhaps there's someone proficient with this sort of fluid dynamic design things who can lend a hand?
Ok so, i been there and here is what you can do 1) the tip here is roto speed, forget about clearances and shit (unless they are over 0.8mm or so) you want high speed so, an inrunner bldc is a great idea something like a 3660 (5mm shaft at least) 2) add some back sweep to those blades, make it shorter and as wide as possible, also, make the inlet as big as you can (since we are aiming here for airspeed and static pressure experiment with different diameters (maybe look at Matthias wandel blower experiments (although they dont look 100% the same, the work on a similar principle) mm from the edges if possible) get a better angle of attack in those blades 3) if you need inspiration, go to grabcad and get an already made design (it will probably be the easiest one) and adapt it to your needs (probably look at turbocharger models) i hope that it helps (ik this for working on my 3D printed centrifugal supercharger project.
I think this would be a perfect application for carbon fiber reinforced plastics! They don´t deform as much at these high speeds as simple PLA or ABS would due to the forces involved
I'm currently working on a vacuum turbine design currently The challenging bit at the moment is getting sufficient static pressure to be able to produce good suction. The amount of air that the turbine can flow when it's being run open air is insane though! Hopefully when I shift over to a BLDC motor with controller I should be able to get a substantial RPM increase which will gain a good static pressure. I'm aiming to use a 3300kV 540 motor with 60A ESC. The current motor is a brushed 540 that spins around 12,000 RPM.
you could also use one of those server fans , they have a lot of power, come with flow correction (the rotating wind is converted into straight flowing wind using two opposite rotating fans) and they are also cheap+ do not heat as much as normal bldc motors.. i have some of them from sanyo and they all working fine
@@underdweller yes it makes it sounds very powerful but actually not so much as the fan is not designed to pull a vacuum it's designed to push allot of air
Amazing results for a first go at impeller deign. I would recomend, however, a deign more similar to the original one. First off, the inlet and and outlet area of the impeller (not the case, but the impeller, although this holds true for the case too) should be about the same, if we ignore cinoressibility (we are below mach 0.7 so thats a safe assumption). I would do this by, counterintuitively, decreasung the inlet area. The key with centrifugal pumps is the development of the centrifugal force by fkinging the fluid from near the center of rotation all the way out to near the edge of the impeller. The air entering near the edge of your current impeller design is not going to actually get accelerated that much by the time it reaches the outlet. The axial component of the airflow does not add significant suctuon power for this type of impeller, which is why the oroginal one is so flat rather than long like yours. Good luck with v2!
Use an inrunner motor for it. It’s like the motors you find in brushless rc cars, they make lots of rpm because the rotors are very light compared to the outrunners that need more torque for what they do. Very cool project
If sucking up air is really based only rpm (maybe, not sure) You could add a gearing system to multiply it. But of course it depends on IF torque really doesn't matter.
Years ago I was gifted a Black and Decker dust Buster vacuum. Don't ask me why we kept it but I still have it. My original intent was to change the battery inside, i think that was the only problem. I seriously like your idea of using a tools battery. I have a air pump, left blower and weed wacker that uses the same batteries. I wouldn't mind having this join them using the same battery. Feels more intelligent that way. Too bad you aren't close, I'd love to fix this damn thing. Its dated back from 1999 if you can believe it
I 18 volt everything. When my dyson stick vac went through its 2nd 14.4 volt pack I also converted to makita 18 volt. It lasted about 2 years until the wheel exploded. I ended up taking the cyclone off of it and taping it to the front of a black and decker 14.4 volt that I had converted to 18 volt. Found out the dyson was an extremely high static vac, gutted the inside of the cyclone and removed all restrictions, now it works as good or better than the original design( for my garage, the original pulled through a very restrictive hepa filter) . The cyclone still works fine with all the stuff inside removed.I replaced the motor on a first gen makita stick vac with the dyson motor I had laying around. That vac went from anemic to lifting 2x4's. All the vac wheels I have messed with had 2 walls, not just a back wall and exposed blades
I love this video. It's engineering in a nutshell - constant revision and improvement. Trial and error and many failures that lead to a successful outcome. Great work
regarding the redesigns of the impeller. don't forget we are not doing those things because they are easy. we are doing them because we thought they'd be easy ;)
I don't know if it matters for centrifugal vacuums, but with centrifugal compressors the key to performance is the *centrifugal* part. Centrifugal compressors work well in the applications they are used in (compression) because air has at least more mass than viscosity. Because of this you can pack it better by "throwing" it, than you can via trying to mechanically "squish" it. Think of it like grabbing snow vs. grabbing water. Both are the same weight, but one is "thinner" than the other, so is harder to mechanically grab, like with your hands for example. If you want to move a lot of water, it makes sense to "toss it" and let it's weight do the rest of the work... That's kind of how a centrifugal compressor works. What I'm getting at is this.... to me, your impeller/compressor is too tall, and not big enough around. You really want diameter so you are firmly "tossing" that air. (Also, try printing with PETG. As a long time hard core Nylon Nazi, I can confirm PETG will change you.)
Impeller design is crucial. Switching from a Closed type impeller to the Semi Open type reduced the efficiency of the impeller. Tolerances are a bit of a problem with plastics, but improving the impeller design is where i would start.
OMG a bldc vacuum cleaner, I love it. For future mod... Active noise cancelling works really well on airplanes. A active noise cancelling mod on a vacuum cleaner might be revolutionary.
It's great that you still posted your results even though you didn't beat the ground truth (original design)! We live in a sterilized world with a mortal aversion to publishing bad or neutral results, both in "real life" and in academia, to the detriment of us all.
If you put that impeller in an involute housing and add stator vanes you'll get much better performance out of it. Those types of impeller generate pressure by interacting with stator vanes, and the involute housing optimizes the volume at each point to account for the air being added to the system. A word of caution though: You'll probably have to use a much smaller impeller. Moving more air through these types of systems increases their load, so if you make the impeller more efficient, your motor is going to draw hundreds of watts spinning it. A smaller impeller in a proper enclosure will easily outstrip the airflow of your original motor. If you have a ~100W motor in the ~3-5000KV range you can use that and a ~20mm inlet impeller to get really good airflow and static pressure. That's what Dyson uses. Print that one in resin though, you'll need more precision and balance than FDM can give you.
Next step further impellor improvements, including balancing. perhaps a higher kv motor, but the impellor is where you're going to pick up most improvements long term.
The tolerances inside the impellor unit that Dyson use for their held held units are very tight. It's a similar centrifugal design only smaller, the housing is not much bigger than the BDC motor used here, but they're also not 3D printing the parts either, it's some kind of glass fiber reinforced plastic, and would spin much faster too
Might want to replace that propeller with a quieter version, I don't remember the details but the key point was the fins circling back on them selves as a loop rather than suddenly ending with an edge like your existing one does. It's a recent discovery that they're both more effective and quieter. You'll have to do the research yourself though if you want more in depth detail since I only saw it on the "undecided" vids (I think).
Thank you for doing that. That is my mothers birthday and the funny thing is the first Earth Day was when she was born, so I am happy for that. I have a mother earth essentially.
Wow, my elderly neighbour comes to the door asking for assistance with her hand-held vac. Never once was the word vaccum cleaner used in our conversation. Within minutes I am being suggested this video...
proper impeller design requires knowing the airflow and pressure differential at a given RPM, this directly influences the shape, soo there is a lot of trial and error with your method... but still seems like a lot of fun :)
firstly, a cleaning vacuum like you have is kinda akin to a turbopump, it likes massive speed and decent tolerances in the impeller casing to increase static pressure, try using more fins, faster BLDC, tighter"blade to case" tolerances, and print into something more centrifugally stable like UV resin impellers are f**king difficult to DIY, the speed you have to reach for decent performance is nearly impossible for most 3D printed parts(injection plastic, metal and resin are kinda the only options), and the fine line between max performance and a destroyed impeller is so delicate that a youtuber I recommend you speak to, Integza, may be able to help you optimize your setup as he has experience in 3D printing impellers he primarily used for an air turbopump for his rocket engines, parts that tend to enjoy static pressure instead of flow just like you need
Have a look into how hybrid turbochargers on cars are designed as they use a similar impeller design, just with different fins or something. A turbo hoover if you will ;)
Spends many hours mechanically engineering things, says: "I'm not a mechanical engineer". Mate if you aren't already, you're getting there. very interesting video.
the best vacuum is a free dyson someone threw away because it needed a good cleaning. ultimately you need a cyclone separator, independent of brand. you use the airs own movement to create filtration.
Sounds like my wife and I, sometimes it works out well and she likes my solution, other times not so much and end up spending more to make her happy. But, i enjoy the challenge of the projects so its worth it to me.
some motors are built more for torque than they are RPM, if needing higher RPM you can offset the motor and build a gear (or pully) system to step up the ratio to a better RPM.
This is so funny. Our old Vax was dying and the other half wanted a new one... untill I fitted a DeWalt adapter and gave it a new lease of life. I did stop there though as it ran better than new.
Instead of wasting it, because of environment, you have created a few plastic turbines, that went to the bin because werent good enough, ended with worse vacuum than you had. I can see this as an absolute win.
In the "legacy" media, reporters seem to fall into a habit of only mentioning the most newsworthy part of a story out of hand somewhere in the article, or possibly saving it for a stinger at the end. I don't know what it's called in German, but in American English we call this "burying the lede." In the case of this video, the buried lede is that this is, to the best of my knowledge, the first time GreatScott! has mentioned having a girlfriend. Felicitations!
