Next video idea related to this one, (this time explained well for real) Have a line that goes through the impacted areas of the plastic piece, to where a liquid that in this case can be water, as we don't care about weight like somone suggested, and have it flow, that then comes out of the other side of the and goes into a radiator that cools off the water again and re flows it inside, to have an infinite loop of cold water that will prevent the heat to melt the plastic.
@@rombularengine5279 some rockets engines and probably jet engines use a similar concept, but instead of extra weight for a coolant such as water, they just pass the liquid fuel itself which doesn't have an oxidizer around the combustion chamber in small tubes, I believe this is called regenerative cooling.
@@notscar Well, guess that's pretty much where the limits of this plastic is. It's not a material meant for surviving such a large amount of heat, maybe thermoplastics would do slightly better, but honestly I would much prefer to see this channel start making metallic designs
Dyson "bladeless" fan is just 100% marketing. Not only does it use blades internally but there's no actual "multiplication". There's no free lunch or free energy. It can drag more air with it but at the expense of slowing down the initial stream coming out of the "fan". It just convert a small fast flow of air into a larger slow flow of air.
Video Idea: Try to create a version where the fuel is injected directly in the resin part. this way you can have many small channels that act as a nebulizer, potentially with a better fuel too and the best oxidizer available. Then you could try it in the real world on a RC plane, maybe in collaboration with FliteTest. (right now they are making some pretty cool Star wars pod racers that would really fit this innovative motor). By the way, I really appreciate you making informative and fun videos linked to 3d printing, rocketry and new ideas. It's really inspiring! Also Tomatoes are disgusting!
@@prof.tahseen6104 thanks! I think the idea is good and especially fun. Maybe the pilot can be a tomato too, like this if everything explodes integza will be happy
Gotta route the liquid propane around the combustion chamber to help cool the parts too. That should cool the parts, preheat the fuel, and there'll no more mucking about with brass tubes.
I saw you had some repeated issues with "flame-outs" when the air velocity got too high and basically blew the flame front out the exhaust. In jet engines, they have similar issues, and deal with it using a simple structure known as a "flame holder", which is just a small baffle that keeps some combustion going in its wake turbulence. Worth a try.
9:09 you should use polysulfone, polyphenylsulfone (Radel), or polyetherimide (ultem) for that translucent tubing. Those materials are actually meant to be used at high temperatures, unlike acrylic. Siraya Sculpt Ultra resin will hold up to higher temperatures too.
Good idea but even polysulfone heat resistance isn't anywhere near the temp of burning butane or propane, if using plastic for the top I think the best option although tedious, is to try to add water cooling channels throughout the plastic
After seeing this video, I want to see you do a couple of things: 1. Build a fairly low-cost rocket with autopilot/guided system 1b. Bonus points if you make it do a precision landing. 2. Build a drone capable of firing paintballs that can withstand the recoil of the paintball gun. I love your videos by the way. Never stop!
I think it would be cool to see integza make an actual rocket. Considering that he already has a lot of examples of working propulsion systems, it would be pretty interesting to see it in practice. Edit: Welp, I lost :p, but thanks for all the likes.
Hello Integza, I know you only since December, but I really like your videos. You should try to create a fan-less turbine but with the explosion chamber in between two Dyson fans, in this way you can use even better materials to make the chamber
Hi Integza, I believe having combustion inside the loop will be more effective and produce more thrust. Although you still have to find out a solution for the loop to withstand heat. I’d suggest you to try it with metal filament you showed in Aerospike nozzle video
I really would like to see you build a coil gun , not a classic one, but one structured in a loop, like a particle accelerator. Probably the "bullet" would reach much higher speeds. I guess it would be perfect to smash some tomatoes, by the way 😂
That would ve SUPER dangerous, since youd continously accelerate the bullet untill your accelerting force is the same as the friction, so it could reach insane speeds and tear itself apart. Also it probably wouldn't work, because Railguns are typicaly run on capacitors, wich works great, since you dont need a continuos power output, but only a very short one. But on a circular accelerator you'd need a continuos powersupply, with absolutely insane Wattage.
@@niemanddings9517 okay so I agree with your point, it's an absolutely stupid idea due to the amount of danger involved, but using more capacitors and discharging them a bit more slowly, while also using a smaller projectile should work. In my mind it just looks an insanely dangerous hot wheels track or something. (Also the more i think of it the more dangerous it seems.)
Maybe such that gets the hydrogen from a hyrdrogen generator (car battery or such, some electrolyte, water and metal sheets) - you'd get the perfect oxygen to hydrogen ratio automatically since the burnable gas is generated from a burning product of hydrogen (water) - a simple blowback valve/ a few of them should make it decently safe too
I recommend getting some upgrades for your filament printer specifically for high temperature builds , some parts that are polymers of more than one material have some pretty impressive material properties one good example is carbon fiber nylon which boasts a high resistance to both heat and stress nearly on par with some weaker metals like aluminum, I've been using it after electroplating it in industrial uses for the last couple years with some impressive results given it only required some relatively simple modifications to my existing ender series printer , I personally invested in a filament heater , Heated bed and glass as to prevent bed adhesion and a full metal hot end and tubing as a bear minimum to start dabbling with some of the more hardcore filaments out there and I've had no regrets , some learning curves sure but it opens up a whole world of applications that traditional filaments and 3d printing just could never hope to achieve due to one material property or another
It may be worth it to design cooling channels into the walls, hook up a small water pump and make it liquid cooled similar to some rocket nozzles. I love your videos! Keep up the cool work!
The geometry of the inside could remain the same. I was thinking the channels could be part of the walls like the F1 engine or other similar rocket engines.
Video suggestion: try using heat-resistant resin! We use it often in my lab and it's able to sustain about 250°C and pressure up to 0.45 MPa. It might help with this prototype! 😁
@@Rudy97 Was thinking 1000C, similar to what a real turbo or jet engine would do. But turbos and jet engines get ideal fuel ratios and have been engineered to get to an ideal temp. A home thing will run less efficiently.
@John Thomas Well, this guy sort of remade it ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0IbWampaEcM.html And by his explanation, it wouldn't work in this case, because the material expands.
@John Thomas Starlight (or other more modern intumescent materials) wouldn't be a great option, the expanding carbon foam that makes them work is going to block airflow. Check out Nighthawk in Light's series on it.
As the nozzle of your experiments always comes out on fire, it would be interesting to try a cooling system that uses the fuel itself (or water), as real rockets do. It could consist of leaving some tubes inside the walls of the nozzle and making the fuel pass through it before going out to the combustion chamber.
@@cmwgfo2024 Well, maybe it's true that a lot of chamber pressure is needed from, but we could also say that to create a nozzle you have to use very high quality materials, and integza does it with PLA and other 3d printing materials, I think he's capable of make a cooling system that work for the nozzle... at least for some minutes XD.
Couple of things I am seeing… 1)you have a fuel starvation issue at the highest speeds. 2) it seems like a lot of the energy from combustion is acting perpendicular to the axis of thrust you want, try to move the injectors so they are internal to the “fan” part rather then the impeller. If not the injectors, then maybe an ignition system so you can measure the air/fuel ratio in the up-tube and get an optimal combustion ratio for a given airflow. This will also mix the air/fuel more, allowing for more efficient combustion . 3). You will probably need to use either a hear resistant ceramic like you tried, or use a metal that can withstand high temps for your initial tests. (Option 2, run a coolest loop around the housing and a cryogenic fuel similar to a rocket bell). What you did was amazing, so don’t give up on it. I think you are close. One other thing…have you thought about applying fuel to the airstream coming though the center of the engine and igniting that somehow as well? Good luck
For ignition, you should look into glow plugs. They're DESIGN to ignite fuel. They stay on, and you can use a less complicated power source. They're a pretty cool, basic technology that work very well.
They are not designed to ignite fuel. They are designed to heat up the cylinders in a Diesel engine to help the diesel fuel burn. They do not stay on either, they will turn off after a few seconds and in modern diesels they will come on and off while the engine is running to help it be more economical. Spark plugs ignite petroleum fuel but they also don’t stay on.
@@Alexander_l322 I believe he's referring to r/c glow plugs which do provide ignition for nitro based fuels. They don't run on the diesel cycle, they're traditional two strokes. The glow plugs although not powered the whole time do retain heat from the previous combustion cycle to ignite the fresh air fuel charge.
@@Alexander_l322 They arent designed to heat up the cylinders per say they are really more analogous to spark plugs because they are the source of energy that allows for the detonation to take place when otherwise it wouldn't like when the engine is cold during start up. So its a starting aid in diesels that provides the small nudge that is needed to allow for the proper conditions for detonation to occur. When cold the cold engine block can absorb the heat from compession and not allow it to ignite but once it does they turn off. Now if your talking about R/C glow plugs on engnes using nitromethane then the key factor is that they have a platinum catalyst which when heated up to start catalyses the nitro to ignite and creates heat that continues to ignite during each stroke, Its self sustaining so doesnt require external electrical or anything to keep it going and is somewhat self governing/ timing since as rpms increase it gets hotter which intern ignites faster.
Hey, love your videos! It seems that all your projects fail because of the generated heat. You know what would help? Aluminum ! As you already have a kiln, and have some experience with molds - try aluminum casting. This should definitely help to get some progress with your projects.
@@sakarrc5001 or you can compromise and use titanium... Not as strong as steel or as light as aluminum, but it's lighter than steel and stronger than aluminum If you want REAL heavy metal though, go with inconel x, the same material used for the X-15 space plane, which set a record speed of about Mach 7... Inconel X is extremely heat resistant...
Suggestion... Use the impeller to compress air, inject fuel through the front, burn out the back. Basically build an afterburner. For heat you could line the inside of the combustion chamber with aluminum ducting tape and build in piping for water cooling.
while that could work but it is not the heat in the combustion chamber that he his having a problem with but what i think is that the fan head is not designed for high flow but smooth low flow to take full effect of the viscosity transferred to pull air as we don't need the jet equivalent of air in our normal fans so i propose a new head that will work with the high flow as it seems that it produces some back pressure in its current shape
@@stuartpratt3662 Interesting. Are you suggesting something like a ramjet, but using the high pressure air from the impeller to drive it without needing for it to be moving at high speed? If that could work, it might allow for ramjets to take off on their own without needing a conventional jet engine. I like it.
Hey Integza, I was wondering, how about keeping the system like a dyson fan but instead of burning the fuel inside the chamber, why not use it to deliver the air and fuel mixture to the ends of the bladeless fan and igniting the mixture at the point where currently the white exhaust is coming from. Just like an afterburner sort of a thing. This way you can keep the 3D printed parts cool and still use it to combust fuel and air.
@@BharathwajSathishkumar see that’s what I am trying to say. Imagine the same setup shown in this video, but instead of having an igniter inside the fuel chamber, we let the mixture of fuel and air pass through the setup but modify the exhaust end a bit and add multiple igniters of a different type to ignite this amazing air and fuel mixture. Basically the exhaust end needs to be modified.
Loving the concept of a Jet Engine with the Dyson Fan design. I think your Air / Fuel Ratio is getting messed up when all the extra air gets drawn in. Try leaving the motor where it is and moving your fuel manifold and ignition to the location where the air exits. Like an Afterburner on the F-14 Tom Cat. And print your air chambers in such a way that after leaving the compress and being funneled to the housing with vanes to creat a vortex. Then your Flame would only effect the tail end. And print the end out of ceramic. Now everything would only have cool air on the acrylic parts.
I think that would work and prevent the flameout, but it also won't produce that much thrust, I *think*. A jet engine produces thrust by accelerating a large mass of air, which is done by combustion - you burn the fuel and it's basically exploding out the back. It has to happen early inside this model, so that it can expand through the air multiplier section on top, and then get the benefit of entraining air from the outside. So there's no way to avoid having to deal with hot gases inside the thing. You definitely could move the fuel injection to the late stage as suggested, and it would then be afterburning. The catch is that afterburners are notoriously fuel inefficient, but they do objectively help produce more thrust if that's what you need (in a military plane anyway). An afterburner may also require a nozzle to be effective, I'm not sure on that part (the outgoing air needs something to push against so it produces thrust force). Operating in the air-multiplied stream without a nozzle may just do that for you if the pressure is high enough, I have no idea 😂
Do you know the trick where you boil water over an open flame in a plastic bottle? The water can't exceed 100°C until it's completely evaporated and the plastic bottle doesn't melt for an impressive amount of time. You could print the part as a hollow shell in resin or pla and fill it with water, might be interesting to see/ a viable way to keep the parts from melting
Don't know if it is possible or not, but watching this video got me thinking: Could you make a super powerful *JET ENGINE VACUUM?* Could be fun. I don't know😂
And it would incinerate the dust at the same time! I can see some practical use for this! (E.g. sucking up seeds from pest plants, instantly recycling them into plant feed... Or to suck insect swarms from the air in malaria regions or in Lapland)
hello integza! I would suggest to use the impeller from a used car turbocharger, they are made to withstand over 200k RPMs and very high temperetures while being perfectly balanced, plus they in most cases are free if you know someone that owns a scrapyard or a mechanic shop
wowww, those white flames looked amazing!! its probably only a bandaid, but you could try to cover the surface of your prints with kapton and then aluminium tape to act as a heat shield. alternatively, maybe you can cast some parts in JB-weld. it would be a little expensive and maybe the heat resistance still isn't enough, but it would have a much higher limit than the regular resins you are using. EDIT: J-B Weld extremeheat is rated for 537°C !
A paraffin wax candle burns with a flame of 1000° C. It's about the coolest flame there is. Direct a narrow stream of oxygenated air at the base of the flame and the temperature rises drastically. JB Weld - High Heat burns like any other plastic in direct flame.
@@3DPDK yeah i vaguely knew that fire is in a temperature range way beyond 500C, but i don't think the materials are reaching those temperatures for quite a while, since they're being cooled by a constant stream of air and would probably take a while to heat soak. not sure though. its definitely not the solution, just a band aid for prototyping at best. although, for a rocket with a short burn, it might work.
A bright white is a sign of nitromethane. The 'nitro', likely, is coming from the decomposition of the resin. So not only is the flame burning the resin, the fuel is likely reacting with the resin as well, before also burning. Try adding a chunk of resin to some of the fuel in a container and see if they react. Can't really use materials that react with the fuel being burned :) Basically, even if you can't find a plastic that is completely heat resistant, if you can find one that at least doesn't react with the fuel, you will be MUCH better off.
You wont really get more thrust than the straight fan. Back pressure from the expanding gas pushes back against the fan restricting airflow. this also makes it really hard to get a stable flame front.
Hey Integza, they make brushable ceramic epoxies for high heat applications. A bit expensive, but if you painted that over a printed part it might make it last a lot longer.
If he tries it and it ends up working well then I feel like there are several projects he could revisit. The lack of good heat resistant materials is like a theme of this channel
That's how they harden the edge of Katanas and leave the spine flexible, ceramic paint wouldn't be to bad an idea. Or alternitively use a clay wash, similar to how mud dries on an object.
Have you ever considered casting your prints in aluminum? I know it's super involved but also will give you relatively strong and heat resistant prints
How about change the combustion point to see if it makes a difference in the heat transfer. Also how about measuring the air flow vs the fuel to make sure it has a good ratio for complete combustion.
1:25 6:55 You're thinking of Bernoulli's principle: the high-pressure air, when shot out of the fan, becomes fast velocity air. Very fast air means lower pressure since the air rapidly leaves the area it was passing, leaving empty spaces. This low pressure causes surrounding low-velocity higher-pressure air to rush in and fill the space, in the direction of your face
@@IronBand4 coanda effect would be the sticking of air onto surfaces, especially curved ones. Interestingly it's also to do with bernoulli's principle! The fast moving air causes low pressure. Normally this drags surrounding air into the fast moving air stream (since the surrounding air is higher pressure, it gets pushed towards the low pressure stream), but when one side of the stream is a solid surface, then the low pressure sucks that fast moving stream towards the surface, while the other exposed side of the stream has higher pressure ambient air pushing into the steam towards the surface.
@@Yadobler exactly what is happening here. The slot is at the back of the cylinder and the air travels along the annular airfoil to the trailing edge, dragging the ambient static air with it.
You're attempts at creating a part that was heat resistant were interesting. A video showing the different/best ways of creating parts from plaster, foundry metals would be very interesting.
For a clear, heat-resistant combustion chamber, see if you can source a wide tube of borosilicate glass. It doesn't expand/contract as much as regular glass with changes in temperature, so it's less prone to shattering while heating up and cooling down. It's used in proper laboratory glassware, so if you can't find a borosilicate tube, perhaps find a graduated cylinder or beaker made of borosilicate glass and cut off the bottom and top
Probably would help, but it looks like tuning the air/fuel mixture seems to be half the battle so maybe once that is dialed in, a soft start would be possible.
Considering most jet engines keep everything outside the turbine cool using an air cooling barrier layer, it's not surprising your fan element is melting. What you need to do is channel some of the air into the front of the intake, and form a barrier around the flame exit. You also probably don't want to burn in the vertical chamber, but in that upper element, again so you can surround the burn chamber with a barrier of air.
try making this jet engine with the hydrogen peroxide rocket reaction chamber instead of a combustion chamber. the resin might last longer since the reaction is cooler. it would be awesome to see two previous projects combined into one.
Suggestion Time: You should try to use the "LOST PLA Casting" method, where you cast a metal in the PLA mould and the PLA burns off, leaving the metal form for the jet engine!
@@jaricmcghee5931 you misunderstand how lost pla casting works. you create a fire resistant mold around a pla object then burn out the pla in a kiln leaving an empty void that is filled with metal during the real casting.
@@jaricmcghee5931 no problem. I only know because I looked into it myself. it's a difficult multi-step process. requiring a forge, kiln, and some sort of mold material that can stand up to like 1200+ degrees.
I love your unfounded optimisim. If you bend fire around plastic surfaces.... Anyway a mate and I were talking about using an underwater version to bladlessly cycle a fish tank. The bet was would they jump in to the loop just for the fun.
Personally, I would ignite the pressurized air/fuel mix in the upper part near the back end, it would preserve everything of scotching heat and avoid self destruction.
Agreed, though this would reduce the efficiency of the engine, since there is a shorter expanding tube for for the air to flow through meaning it's harder to cause as much decompression, limiting the amount of air that gets sucked through the front and the overall thrust (sorry for the bad explanation)
You really need to start designing cooling channels into your parts. Your rocket nozzles need to be part nozzle, part heat exchanger, and use water to take the heat away from the surface of the combustion side of the nozzle
You were just on the precipice of learning something very important about combustor design 😭. Once you get a setup that can take the heat better, you'll probably want to do the clamshell style combustor geometry used in jet engines (sorry I don't know how to better describe it). Basically you want to have a flame holder that prevents the full velocity air from entirely blowing out your combustion.
Video Idea: Pulse Detonation engine. You could use an air compressor, psi sensor and spark plug to get the Detonation system and with you ability to 3d print in metal you should be able to make a functioning prototype. (and you would be the first to do it on RU-vid). The problem is that they require a lot of tuning to get working.
Hey Integza, one solution to make so that all of your engine withstand the eat would be to use Regenerative cooling, this would mean that the propellant need to be cooled, but it would prevent your part from breaking up from the eat! That would be an amazing part to explore for a next video ^^
This would also mean that you need to funnel the propellant through the parts affected by the heat in extra channels. Effectively building a liquid/gas cooling for the parts. It would probably be easier to just water cool the part as suggested in another comment, at least for now. Also cooling with your propellant makes only sense if you really cannot cool otherwise, which are normally only rockets. If the design is an aircraft engine as in this case air or water cooing would probably be more efficient. The reason for this is, you want the propellant as cool as possible when you inject it into the engine because then it is as dense as possible which means for the same volume you get more energy.
@@FactoryofRedstone I agree but to water cool it will mean that you have a radiator that can keep up with the eat and that the water don't move too slowly to displace that heat elsewhere. Also cooling with the propellant as the advantage that you don't need the extra setup of the water-cooling, and can (detente of the propellant used) improve the trust output.
I think it would be interesting to add an after burner to your jet engines. And if you can get the sponsorship try the Dyson jet engine build with a metal printer. Yes I know they’re expensive. Keep doing your best! Long Live Tesla!!!!
Tomatos are red. Gase Flames are blue. integza schould build a metal 3d Printer too. 🍅 🍅 🍅 🍅 Video idear: build a metal 3d Printer with power and a laser in one of your next videos.
Hey so maybe make a rocket actually fly. Shouldn't be impossible for you. Also you could make the robot arm thing from iron man to take care of the fires you cause every day. Also it should purposely burn tomatoes when it sees them.
If you look into Jet engines, the process for thrust is "Suck, Squeeze, Bang, Blow". Suck and squeeze is already occuring in the compressor, but there isn't really a bang, rather just a flame, and the blow is being redirected by the bladeless fan. The Bladless fan portion isn't really doing anything in the system besides redirecting the exhaust to make a cool flame.
As for the Dyson jet engine idea, it might be better to print it in layers that are assembled or interlocking versus one solid piece, or apply a heat resistant paint on the surfaces.
Idea for improvement: Have you tried moving the fuel ignition to the fan outlet? This way, you would take advantage of the acceleration of the fuel (by achieving a super thrust) while protecting the fan (because the combustion will be outside the fan). You would get an amazing tomato incinerator =)
This won’t work as the reason the engine is producing thrust is due to the expansion of air and fuel mixture when it combusts. This expansion naturally causes an increase in pressure, which leads to the exhaust to be ‘forced’ out 100s of times faster then the air mixture that’s being fed into the jet before being combusted. The mixture has to be combusted at a point before the centre line of the current outlet to ensure all exhaust goes out the correct direction which would mean it would still cause the outlet to heat up.
For a future video, you should try to make a rocket that is entirely 3D printed! You could use resin for the fuel, ceramic, PLA, or whatever else you can print using your machines. Great vid!
Video idea: An ionic thruster that uses a solenoid/electromagnetic casing to boost the ionic wind even further. Would be cool to see if it can make a plasma vortex jet. And the coolest part is that this jet will be all electric! Nicola Tesla would truly be proud.
Video idea: With environmental efforts being very trendy (team seas and team trees as examples) and with your history of experimenting with different rocket fuels. I think it could be interesting looking at sustainable solutions to the solid fuel cores you have been using on your channel and see if any viable options exist.
10:14 Plasterer here, there are other plaster mixes that are far more sturdy than quick dry varieties, which would indeed be really weak. Keene's Cement should work pretty well as it's very durable and hard. Awesome video!
Idea for a future video: maybe you can create some kind of "standardized" test-stand for your future jet-engines to make them also more objectively comparable in terms of e. g. weight (to be able to compare a thrust-to-weight-ratio), force/thrust and also be able to standardize the connectors for fuel and other needed supplies..
Love your "mad science" style projects. Keep them coming. As far a device, maybe some sort of unnecessarily complicated machine to destroy, vaporize, burn, and pummel tomatoes.
Video idea: Create a laser (beat saber => star wars) that can cut Tomato or may be the Metal sheet like a knife with Guard. That can last long to show chase on the channel back.
Hey Integza, I've got a SPLENDID IDEA for a project you could work on. I love your videos and you always make my day with your enthusiasm, even when things go KABOOM, you're truly an engineer at heart, I can tell :) Make a gas combustion chamber rocket with a reverse mold plaster nozzle and acrylic tubing for the chamber. I'm thinking a nozzle similar to SpaceX's Raptor 1 engine. The plaster shouldn't break too fast for the engine to explode or shatter. It would most likely chip away which is safer than exploding. I though a plaster/cement nozzle from a reverse mold seemed impractical, however, upon further vigorous thinking, I came to the idea that the mold could be in printed in two separate parts, joined by a rod going through the nozzle's hole or by a screw. So I'm thinking that one part of the nozzle mold is on the output side of the nozzle an the other on the chamber side of the nozzle. That way when your parts are cured, you can snap/screw them apart without having to melt any 3D printed plastic. Hope you consider this idea of mine, Have a great day Integza!
If you flip this fan inside-out, it might be the drive system for the Tic Tac seen by US Navy pilots. An ionic skin drive could cause a craft to move without a visible propulsion source. And if you turn up the power and create a thin plasma membrane around it, this is supposed to be ideal for hypersonic flight.
I've thought of 2 possible solutions for the heat problems: 1) *Instead of making the entire fan part heat-resistant how about treating the inside of the 3d printed part with a heat resistance coating like ceramic spray coating?* I've seen it used in the past to make 3d prints from non-heat resistant material more heat-resistant. And if this isn't enough using a coat of something porous in between the plastic print and the ceramic coating could help with heat insulation. Although I'm not sure how this would impact the air intake.. Edit: I've looked a bit more into ceramic coating and this doesn't look like a viable solution but I still think a coating of the inside of the top part would be the solution. But instead of a spray something liquid and thick that can be applied with a brush would be perfect. Whether it's plaster or something else I don't really know though Edit 2: If making a coating blocks the air coming in you could maybe modify the 3d model a bit so that applying the coating would result in the original shape of the interior of the print that burned ealier in the video 2) As for the acrylic tube that was making bubbles and burning you might want to look into "Heat resistant quartz tube" It's translucent and heat resistant.
Video Idea: to improve accuracy on your heat resistant designs try to do a 2 step procedure ... 1st 3d print it in parts and make a silicon mold of it ... 2nd create a wax model of it in the silicone mold and assemble the entire piece (trim the excess parts and defects, smooth the surfaces when necessary, etc) ... 3rd make a plaster (or heat resistant silicon ) mold and burn the wax ... 4th pour the material (liquid metal, cement, etc.. on the mold) and enjoy. You will have the 1st silicon molds that let you make new wax models and make changes on the design if necessary. Tks
Your videos inspire me to think big. You could try to electroplate the impeller and combustion chamber seeing as copper layering might withstand considerably higher temperatures than acrylic and resin - although copper is opaque. Could you also consider making a miniature and maneuverable hovering car using the Dyson fan in your future videos please.
have you tried using a silicone negative mold to make your ceramic dyson fan? Using the mold to cast the ceramic, letting it dry and then removing the silicone before putting the ceramic mold into the kiln?
Hey Integza! I like the idea of using coanda effect but I think using an air amplifier design would make things easier. Entire nozzle would be shrouded from heat by constant air flow
Hello integza! I've had an idea about the engine nozzles that constantly explode. What would happen if you actively tried to cool them down by spraying a coolant if some sorts? Would that help with the problem? Cheers!
@LabRat Knatz I think adding fuel as a coolant wouldn't make much of a difference for preserving the nozzle, but it absolutely would add thrust just like an afterburner.
@@theofilosgrigoriadis9840 he's talking about how nozzles in rockets run the fuel through the cones shell via tubes as a refrigerant, when it's liquid the fuel is super cooled which sucks the heat away from the nozzle and also prepares the fuel for ignition by bringing it up to temp before running through the nozzles port. it wouldn't have an afterburner effect unless it exploded and it's not just a "russian" thing, it's a rocket science thing that is widely used in all rockets today that use liquid fuel.
@@A_piece_of_broccoli That sounds like it would work! My thought was to actively spray the coolant on top of the nozzle and thus spraying fuel on top of the nozzle seemed dangerous but having it run through it sounds very good and I would love to see if it works or not with the kind of materials integza uses!
Perhaps time to delve into some more advanced 3d printing filament! PSU and PPSU in particular are great at resisting heat, and are sometimes used in aerospace applications. PPSU is around 200USD a kilo, so it's quite expensive, but apparently it prints quite nicely and is nice and tough to boot, so you should be able to get some great runs out of it.
I'd love to see a compiled video where you take your best ideas and try to make an actual rocket and let it fly. Sure it may only go a meter off the ground, but it would be cool to see what you think are the best ideas you tried so far all put together.
I just got done watching a great documentary from the 80s about a couple kids that made a person out of a barbie doll. It was called "Weird Science." You should try that using more modern technology. :)
On your next jet engine you should make it have a bypass air system to cool the engine like on a turbojet engine. Air flows through the outside case to help cool the engine.
DYI perks made a truly bladeless "fan" by making what was basically a diaphragm. I think he built it that way since he's sensitive to noise, so he was experimenting with making it quiet but it is blade less. If you want one with zero moving parts, that's a different story.
Jetoptera has a jet driven impeller that pulls in air that is mixed with the exhaust and ducted to the Dyson nozzles. They dont have 2-4 engines to match their nozzle count for exactly the reason your experiments showed, heat damage and fatigue. If you could mix in colder air with the exhaust, you could achieve similar results as Jetoptera.
