Add exhaust fan attached to an adjustable arm to help pull the smoke away from your face as you work. I'm thinking a simple PC fan. You could feed it to a hose duct to route it out a window. Have the option to flip the direction of the fan so you can have something cooling you off while you work.
It is very easy to make a simple filter system too, just use a PC fan with a cheap carbon filter in front of it. Maybe add a HEPA filter if you really wanted. A carbon filter is all you need for something like soldering.
I’m so glad you chose to revisit one of your old projects to make it better. So many other RU-vidrs will make it good enough for the video and then throw it off to the side.
oh I am IN LOVE WITH THIS. I was holding off on printing cause Im moving out soon, but this is just too cool! I am planning on printing your version, but also using your design as a template for my own smaller version for gundam painting. Amazing work here!
Pre-existing rust shouldn't cause concrete to crack. Cracks occur when the steel that's already inside the concrete starts to rust, because rust takes up more space than the steel did before rusting, which causes expansion. It shouldn't happen if you keep the concrete base indoors, but if you're worried you can seal the concrete using special sealer that would prevent more moisture from entering through the porous surface.
You don't need to worry about the steel inside the concrete. concrete is an alkaline material which creates a passivation layer on the surface of the steel. Since your concrete isn't stressed, it's unlikely to form cracks which will allow water to get in and damage that passivation layer and cause corrosion of the steel. If you're really worried about it, you could paint it with some regular lyx pint something similar to waterproof the exposed surfaces
Exactly. Rusty concrete is used in the construction industry as the increased friction increases its effectiveness in reinforced concrete members. As stated by another comment, the alkaline environment will inhibit rust progression.
@@davidbrennan7422 the concrete is just there for weight anyway, you could just use sand or gravel too, so cracks in the concrete don’t really affect its use. Also in this application water getting in likely isn’t too much of a concern anyway.
What a great tool. It prints and works briliantly. I opted to fill it with sand-epoxy mix and added some scrap metal which works also briliantly. Still printing some of the addons to see what works best for me. Thanks so much for sharing and having this opensource
Wow, this thing is an absolute tour de force of design awesomeness now! It was already great, but the tweaks and add-ons raise it to legendary levels! Thanks so much for sharing all the design files!
It looks like you're using a screw and a series of depressions around the perimeter of the rotating bearing to lock the bearing in place, which I think is a good idea. I wonder if you could create an adjustable friction mechanism by having a plane bearing surface and a low friction or medium friction surface like a piece of felt that you could adjust with the screw to create an adjustable resistance rotation rather than simply a stop.
How about adding a few strong small neodimium magnets to the halfsphere surface all with the same polarity and one strong big neodimium magnet of the opposite polarity to the base? That would make the sphere "lock" in place with the base and allow you to get much steeper angles of holding it in place.
Fiy I'm currently in the process of making this and greatly appreciated that updated BOM. I do have to say, seeing a update video so close after starting to buy the metal bolts gave me a spook thinking you'd revisioned it to be bigger with better sizes and such.
I used a shot put ball to make chasing balls. The Olympic official weight is 7.2kg but you can buy training versions in heavier or lighter. They are right cast iron so they need to have the entire outer surface ground and sanded smooth. And you will need to machine a flat face. There is a hole drilled to adjust to the desired weight that can be used for fixtures.
Your shot of the Bunnings bolt section gave me PTSD. So many times I've done a 12 hour print, ducked down to Bunnings, and realised I'm gonna have to redo the print to compensate for their poor inventory management :)
That handrest option is wonderful. I'm always having to find a way to support my arm/wrist when I solder because of the tremor in my dominate hand. I'm looking into painting miniatures as well, so I'm loving this project.
I started getting the hardware together to make the V1 of this, but some stuff got in the way and didnt have time to start on it, and I'm glad I got delayed and can now pivot to this version!
Re: Rust Cracking the concrete - I'd take a look at Practical Engineering's videos on concrete and rebar and Colin Furze's videos on his tunnel/bunker/underground garage build. The reason rust cracks concrete is because the steel used expands when it rusts. Not a lot, but enough to ruin precision surfaces and cause concrete to crack due to the fact that concrete is great in compression and terrible in tension. If you put something that's already rusty into the concrete and completely cover it, then it won't continue to rust, which means that it won't expand, which then means the concrete won't crack. If I'm remembering right, concrete can also react with rust while curing to prevent the steel from rusting further. I'm not 100% sure I have that right and even if I do, I don't know what chemical reaction is happening to do that. But, the TL;DR: is that you probably don't have to worry about the concrete cracking.
Such a wild and nifty holder, really awesome design! Found you on the printables page for this and you earned another subscriber after watching the video!
I have been working on parts for this very thing. This is crazy. I went modular at first. Tip: Cannibalize from stop-motion armatures, 3d printer frames, etc. Robotic arms are spendy. I'm going to shut up and watch your video now. I can't believe this. By the way, my project started as a way for people with essential tremors to reengage in their hobbies. Whittling, airbrush, stenciling, painting. My therapist is going to love your video!!!
If you live in an area where reloading supplies are a thing you can get, lead birdshot for shotguns would be significantly easier to mix and pour into the concrete. The birdshot are small lead spheres, so mixing will be even easier than the wheel weights. Additionally, the birdshot is smaller in size than the wheel weights and can simply be mixed into the concrete prior to pouring. Alternatively, you might look for tungeston powder, heavier than lead and even easier to mix into concrete.
Please consider adding this thing : Spherical parallel manipulator from MakeBreakRepair This would add even more power to this thing to paint figures and such (maybe other use case i didn't tought of)
The big ball needs a way to change tension in my opinion, from soft to locked. Also the vise itself, at least the gripper should be metal. I can see my clumsy fingers destroying or melting the plastic grip or base. From that apart, I'd pay quite a bit for a set like that (prebuilt). A hundred $ would be fine imho.
just saw the video without the improvements, seeing this version 1.5 update was great, susbcribing for more low cost and simple diy and very usable tool ideas
For the dovetail it would be nice to have a camlock to very quickly lock/unlock it for fast swapping of options. That might work for other parts too :)
A vibrating pen or rod from amazon would be a great tool to have if you intend to do more future projects with concreate since it will seal the concreate surface better and make it less brittle or powder like when it's dried up. The concreate will be more uniform when drying up rather then full of air bubbles as it is dried up.
When soldering, especially when up closer to your face, make sure you wear glasses or goggles. All it takes is the flux to spit and it could end up in your eyes which is not very good for them. Also a good upgrade would be an extractor fan. Any fan, most commonly a PC fan, plus a cheap carbon filter will suck the fumes away and get rid of them.
Rather the recutting the threads and using nuts you could just screw directly into the plastic. It holds perfectly fine but only lasts a few times being screwed or unscrewed.
The concrete isn’t really structural and is just there for weight so cracks shouldn’t really matter, you could do the same just filling it with gravel or sand.
Concrete engineer here, as long as the rust is not loose (DK gravrust) the alkalinity and minerals in concrete attacks the rust and create a seal bonding tigthly around the steel protecting it from further corrosion. Any plating with zinc (or loose rust) will also be attacked but seperated from the steel as a loose black powder, hence the necessity for the spacer on the bolt. Using rusty material includes a mandatory shaking and thats it. A vibrator will also help on the casting, leveling up from the prodding with sticks from the last video. Massage anything or a drill with hammer function on the table does the trick horribly loud
While the amount of complexity might make it extremely unnecessary, have you thought about making a version with a spherical parallel manipulator instead of the ball?
So awesome. I'm glad I waited to print it until the upgraded version was complete. That Magic Arm is pretty sweet, I've heard of them, but do you have a link to the version with that clamp on the end? It seems super useful.
When rusted metal is covered in concrete it will stop rusting and it will not crack the concrete, lack of steel reinforcement and thermal expansion will crack the concrete. If the concrete layer is to thin around the steel, water can get to it and make it rust. Although steel’s natural tendency is to undergo corrosion reactions, the alkaline environment of concrete (pH of 12 to 13) provides steel with corrosion protection. At the high pH, a thin oxide layer forms on the steel and prevents metal atoms from dissolving. This passive film does not actually stop corrosion; it reduces the corrosion rate to an insignificant level. For steel in concrete, the passive corrosion rate is typically 0.1 µm per year. Without the passive film, the steel would corrode at rates at least 1,000 times higher...
A note on weights. When I made a ball telescope, I needed a counter weight and I used BBs in epoxy. BBs and cement would probably be even better. It’s a good source of mass that can be acquired new at a relatively low price.
an .au guy who filled his milling machine frame did same, he used granite epoxy and junk metal bits. if you can't buy lead shot in bags, can melt it and fine drizzle off a height, more than 10 feet into water tank, assumes spherical shape in flight, the smallest balls possible (dust would be perfect but hard and dangerous)...pour these with epoxy into half sphere.
I would recommend to print the "concrete-related" parts with PETG. why? PLA degrades in contact with concrete. concrete is highly alkaline and attacks the PLA to generate lactate salts. It is worse when you try to reinforce concrete with PLA, but the same problem should arise: the concrete will not adhere to the PLA as the boundary layer of lactates (that generate initially, and grows over time) is powdery. there is quiet a bit of research, PETG (in the cheaper end, of course) is the best for reinforcing concrete (as does not react at all, and their properties are not crap like ABS/ASA) PLA is good for everything else that do not store energy for long periods of time (creeping problems). ABS/ASA is best for high temp apps but not exposed to UV (but if you are already spraying cancer particles and toxic fumes, you could just use PC if your machine can melt it)
Can we get wider views from different angles with the hand rest, because I honestly can't see in the video how it attaches or is oriented. There's no real visual perspective info from the shiny cylinder.
Not sure if I'm a fan of glueing the dovetail adapter onto a plate. As you have shared the step file, would you mind if I tried and modify the design for that adapter to be removable?
Rust won't cause the concrete to crack over time. Not sure where that person/people got that information. The surface rust actually helps with the bond to the concrete and once the concrete has cured, the rusting process stops. Rusty reinforcement is installed into concrete slabs every single day. Concrete cancer is probably what they're assuming will happen, but concrete cancer will only start if a portion of the steel is exposed to water/oxygen.
i like it except the concrete... rather just trap some screws/lead weights/ball bearings under a cover. perhaps some ballast seperators would be needed
Greetings, I'm from Indonesia, I'm a coin and knife engraver. This is very interesting but I hope you upgrade it again to be used to carve under a microscope... maybe the top part remains round like a ball vise vise in general. All this time I have been looking for a solution for a ball vise, I can't afford the original one. I hope you reply to this comment
@@Quasar0406 Go away you uneducated individual, you accuse me of being what you are clearly are. You seem narcissistic and the life of the party aren't you ?
All the hype about the concrete doesn't even make sense since you dont really see the concrete in the final product. That outer shell ought to last your lifetime for the use you are using it for. Save that money 👍
Even if the rust on the nails did progress enough to stress or even crack the concrete, so what? It's not a structural piece. It's not going to crumble into gravel, and that's how bad it would have to get before it's a problem.
