All info about the SSL Bus Compressor clone here: gyraf.dk/ Kit from PCBGrinder: www.pcbgrinder... MERCHANDISE: teespring.com/... EXTRA CONTENT: / whiteseastudio STUDIO: whiteseastudio...
Three things addionally. 1. Use a power switch that switches both poles, so you never have 230V inside when switched off. 2. Connect GND of the mains to the housing and to the ground of the circut. 3. Add a fuse
Glue from the audiophile shop, wrapped I gold with gold flakes, smoked with snake oil, drank and then pissed out by the pope. For a small lone of a million dollars
I have worked on an SSL 4000 G series console and this actually does sound very much like the transparent nature of a genuine SSL that I remember. The mix you used was obviously already quite clean and good but I very much enjoyed the almost non-existent, silky texture of the compressor across it. Super rad!!! And definitely worth it for around US $800.00 (for the kit and components, not including your extras) I think it's awesome you built this yourself. Obviously you are an audio engineer first and that is where your main talent lies. However, it is very impressive that you are also teaching yourself the physical engineering and design aspects to the tools you use. I don't understand the negative comments, as if they have forgotten you do many different things as an audio engineer and do them well or have somehow made a claim to have done something you didn't do despite them watching a video in which you document exactly how you did it. You did not say you designed the compressor (although you DID make changes according to history of the device, an actual design and engineering choice). Also, I recently saw you mentioned by Kazrog in regards to their True Iron plugin, and was very happy to recognize your name in the advertisement. Knowing your Snake Oil series, I was blown away to realize you may have actually said something positive about a digital plugin. LOL cheers dood you are an inspiration
I just bought a Black Lion Bluey for that price. Who the hell you kidding? $800 is fricken ridiculous for a kit. I'd choose my Bluey over this any day of the week too.
What a great looking build! Remember, the stock VCAs dont need trimming (pre-trimmed), and if you check the beginners assembly guide, youll see where the LED goes :) Thanks for making this, looks and sounds great :)
I would just like to say that I love all your videos. I woke up on the 23rd September 2019 paralysed from the chest down. I have followed you for the last two years that i spent in hospital and it has been inspirational and has kept me very upbeat in the way you present all your videos. I thank you for all that you do in the way of guidance and advice. I will continue following you as long as you continue posting. Thank you again. Danny
I always build the power supply first, and test for correct voltages before populating the PCB with the signal components, and particularly the harder to find(more expensive in some cases) parts like vcs'a and FETs. I've built some great mic pre's and 1176 comps along with an La2a build I'm currently working on. It's great to see other people posting videos on this topic! Well done!!
Dealing with a SSL Clone that seems to be inoperable, do you have a breakdown of wiring for power,bypass, and sidechain, and voltages to and from the transformer?
I also built a GSSL from PCB Grinder last year as well as SSL-style compressors for the 500-series rack. Anyone who is afraid of working with 230 Volts and who happens to own a 500-series rack, go check out the absolutely brilliant DIY kits by Sound Skulptor. Their CP4500 is a (G)SSL buss compressor in a two-slot 500-series module with some added features (e.g. sidechain filters, dry/wet mix knob etc.). Highly recommended!
I assembled this kit too. It was my third project. The first one was a distortion pedal, the second a chorus. Then the GSSL from pcbgrinder. I use it on every mix. The Assembly guide is really well.
My thoughts on improvements... Put an "On" indicator light on the front panel. Put the trim pots for the VCAs on the front panel, or at least you could drill access holes in the bottom of the unit. Nice.
At least someone suggested drilling holes in the bottom of the case, way better option than opening it every time you need to trim it. Plus testing with the case open is a good way to destroy hard work by being clumsy (like me).
I trained up on a G-Series [as well as Neve] and also used loads of external SSL master buss comp's, both original and copies. From what I can hear [via RU-vid] on my studio monitors.... this sounds like the real deal! Thanks for another informative video.
nice little kit. I was taught you should always bend, trim and then solder. This seals the trimmed lead so it can't corrode and is the military spec method. It's also how wave soldering systems work where the solder wave covers the contacts and seals each joint.
Ive actually done that before. Once with a paperclip, the other time I had a chrome dog chain and an exposed outlet with a night-light plug 🔌 hanging half way out of it. I took the dog chain and would fling half of it towards the exposed plug/outlet while holding on to the other end of the chain. Once I flung the chain towards the plug and it touched the bare metal hanging out of the outlet and exploded, with the shocks sending me flying with sparks everywhere. I was a dumbass kid.
I cut a power cable with cable cutters once. While it was plugged in. The spark blinded me and the pop made my ears whistle and the safety switch cut the power, so I was there in the dark, blind, partially deaf, feeling very stupid but grateful to be alive and unharmed to feel all of that. After a few seconds of silence a buddy that was with me asked if I was ok, I said yes and then we switched the power back on, after unplugging the cable. We laughed really hard at that point, and when we checked the cable cutters there was a hole in the blades that was exactly the shape and diameter of the copper.
I was dismantling an old TV, one that had the big tube with flyback transformer, well I cut the wire cathode wire? and the voltage from the charged electrolytic capacitor going through the transformer killed me. (Not really, just flew me across the room)
If one were to drill small holes in the bottom plate directly in line with the trim pots and place a plastic plug in them, then one would have easy access to the trim pots for calibrating the unit. Good build.
Great vid! Note that for safety (regulations) you should always include a fuse in the power connection. And if you're using a grounded power connector you should ground the case. And while you're at it, simply replace the current power socket with a fused one that includes an EMI filter. They're cheap and will prevent your house from burning down plus suppress high frequency noise from the power lines.
I wish everyone had this kind of attitude. I can do this, so I will! As always, your spirit is inspiring. That's more than I would want to do-especially with UAD's and Klanghelm's compressors that are just as good or better. Someday you're going to discover them and wonder why so much time and money went toward something that just makes your job more difficult than it need be. But I'm really glad you're having fun, because, after all, that's the most important thing, isn't it?
Nice build! One suggestion: change the trim pots to real pots on the case (maybe on the back so you don’t disrupt the front panel), so you can always recalibrate easily without even opening the unit and you can play with the distortion too! cheers!!! :)
I really like your video and tutorial of building this kit. You've inspired me to look into not only the same kit, but possibly more of them. I didn't know these kits were available. Thank you very much for posting this video in this manner.
Good job, the only thing I do differently is I measure every resistor I install for less opportunity to make mistakes and hassling with trouble shoot tracing, measure every resistor
Please use shrinking tube on the blank parts at least for 230V. That also gives some extra security in case a wire gets loose and touches conducting parts. Love your videos, best regards from the neighborhood!
wow i didn't even know this was 'a thing'. thanks for doing it. would love to see more on this and the beloved components we should be seeking out, like the dbx parts you put in.
Wytse, if you have build it without the "Turbo Mod", it behaves different from the one in the Console. Check out the Video from Expat Audio, where they are explain the difference between the gSSL and the SSL Console Comp. If you build the Turbo mod, it´s the same as the Console one. The Board alone is 15$, you need only a few components, mostly Resistors, 2 IC´s, a few caps and diodes. The Parts are ~ 15 Euros from Mouser, so this upgrade is worth its money.
Love the new DIY content. Keep it coming. May I add that it would be REALLY lovely if you upload the whole build video too. Maybe just as an "extra", as a link below the video, so people can watch the whole build. I have been wanting to build this exact one for a long time, but never got it done, cause I am not 100% sure how to go about it. But the video looked pretty easy, but would be nice to see the whole build, though.
I'll keep that in mind... The problem is, is that I didn't leave the camera running the whole time because that would create a lot of data... but, I'll try to do it the next time!
GOLY Kit is great but installing a turbo board takes everything to another level. Stereo summing is currently only done in the mid channel. So, warm recommendation - installation of turbo board for stereo and mastering bus comp.
Hi, You have to add the OXFORD OPTION (or TURBO MODE) to have the real sound of the SSL4000 comp sound, Because of a missunderstand schematics reading, the one who made this kit at is origin didn't see that the sidechain had to be in stereo signal, going throught 2 disctint VCA and then mono VCA signal (yes you have to add an extra VCA for the side chain) raher than "monoing" a stereo signal to 1 VCA sidechain The result when listening is totally different The version you made tend to reduce your stereo width and put the mono more in the back (but it's really intersting) The turbo version or oxford version (the real SSL4000 comp) doesn't change the stereo width Try to add the turbo kit and you'll see the real difference, tell me what you think ;)
Where did u get all the parts from. I can't seem to get the that2181 ic. Please let me know coz I kinda bought all other parts but can't get the that2181 ic
I guess im asking the wrong place but does anybody know a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I stupidly forgot the password. I would love any assistance you can offer me!
Where the AC mains connector is located, I would replace the connector entirely with one that has a multi-section filter and possibly also a surge arrester. These are available for a modest amount of money and take up very little extra space. The added protection from electrical pops and crackles when your house-mates switch on the washing machine or food blender is well worth it, particularly if your gear is connected to an expensive pair of studio monitor speakers.
@@Whiteseastudio Good idea! But the idea still applies. AC mains is not pure sinewave and the filter helps clean up any spikes or nastiness. I put filters in everything nowadays. By the way, I love the project and wish you every success with it.
Hahah I laughed at 19:23 when you backed the hell away from it when you powered it up. I've been working with electronics/electricity for years and I still do that every time I try something [usually with mains] for the first time.
So I checked the link. That just is a place to buy the circuit board. But it looks like you bought a kit... I'm a little confused. Any help you or anyone reading this can give me would be appreciated. Thanks
This build is awesome dude! Congrats for your job. I would like to know, Im thinking about to buy this DIY but I dont know if all the components are included with the kit or you have to buy each one?
This unit looks great and sounds equally awesome! For all the other stereo buss compressors in the $1k or sub $1k region don't even come close to how good this unit sounds. I feel like if I did get one I would probably hire a gear tech or electrician to help me assemble it and teach me how not to blow myself up but all in all this is probably the compressor unit I am putting in my master chain when I start building out my hardware gear set up
Hey Wytse ! This was awesome to watch on so many levels . Can you do a video on the backstory of how you learned or where etc , you learned about electronics ? That would be amazing . My dad's an electrician and wants me to get into it . Ofcourse being into audio , what was your approach ? I'm sure that knowledge makes things so much funner from a different perspective . Thanks for what you do , keep it up ! -Chase S.
You could turn that trimmers on the solder side thing to an advantage. Drill small holes to the bottom plate under the trimmers and you can adjust them without opening the case.
What a cool video! I'm curious as to what kind of VCA chips were original. I once built a VCA to take the place of a failed DBX VCA on a fader module of a MCI console. I used an Analog Devices chip that worked very well. but is now obsolete, however THAT Audio makes one that looks as good. Nice job on the build.
I am absolutely going to build one as my first project. Your build sounds really great also because the track used for the test was mixed really good. What is the total cost of the items? minus the labor.
wow! what a lovely build mate. I have an idea as well, I was wondering if it is possible to convert a studio monitor amp to a preamp for guitar tracking. Given that I have found that Yamaha Hs8 monitor amp sounds amazing on guitars especially bass.
congrats on your build! may i suggest trying Reaper's Gain Reduction Scope for checking / calibrating the GR meter on your GSSL? its a 4 input plugin, so in 1-2 should have a loopback / dry input from soundcard and input 3-4 should have the GSSL. the plugin draws the GR curve with history and the attack / release shapes will be visible too.
