don't get disheartened when stripping your defender, I've just done a complete restoration from finding a couple bits of rust but you have that great feel of achievement and satisfaction at the end of it. well worth the time and money. do it right first time round
If you’re taking the body off (replacing the chassis) it would make sense to change the bulkhead too....doors can be done relatively easily at a later stage...the bulkhead is a body-off job again..
No question,, I have with a friend done two Galvanised chassis swaps and people like you and your mate could do a chassis swap in a working week. It took us 5 days after work it's very straight forward. keep the body as is but renew the chassis you have a great drive train and all your various mods, its a no brainer.. in my opinion ! I have a modified Disco 3 overland vehicle and off road trailer, planning to tow to Gran Canaria for a 3 month stay.. all the best Phil
Thanks Phil. No doubt it would be a challenge but I'm sure we could do it. Sounds like a great trip you have planned 👍 Feel free to send us some pics when you get there!
Would be a good series of videos doing a chassis swap. You can do first one on which chassis to choose Marsland, Richards, Shielder and all the others. Then weigh up pros and cons of getting the bulkhead as well. Sure you have read LRO and seen the YRM 110 article. Very interesting about the amount of insulating barriers between diss similar metals They added where none existed from original build.
Hey Liam sorry to hear your Landy will be off the road but like you said it will still be in use thanks to the farm. I was thinking when you said about running a classic, why don't you purchase the first landy to feature on Tiresbeck TV, the mighty lightweight and fix it up with Nissa and run that on the road? It has history on the channel and I would love to see you guys put it back together, like you did the 101. I just thought I'd throw an idea in there. Look foward to seeing what you decide to do, keep up the good work, enjoyed the video as always 👍
Do a richards chassis swap. Would love to watch you progress with it. I think it will be viewed like crazy. I plan on doing a swap on mine in the coming years.
We are lucky in the UK in that we can take cars on and off the road online using the SORN process and you keep the number plate. The UK historic vehicle qualification process is roughly a 40 year rolling window with some rules on acceptable modifications. My sympathetically modified 1977 SIII is a registered historic vehicle so free road tax, no annual MOT and only £180 pa insurance with all mods declared. I do have a legal obligation to keep it roadworthy. Good luck with the future of your Land Rover.
The best thing to do is take your time and get everything you need to replace the chassis. When doing this you can replace anything critical you find under there. I learned about the LRO show from yourselves and was able to create a short video on it. I will be going today and will say Hi if I see you.
Put a galvanised chassis on my 300 tdi - new suspension, bushings and it drives better than new and I get compliments from the MOT people who see a lot of rust buckets with flashy bits bolted on.... it’s not cheap but it puts your mind at ease and it no longer feels like you can see it rust before your eyes
At the end of the day only you can decide what to do, but it is always good to get input from others. If it were me I'd buy a Series 3 for the cheap tax (might be nice to have something different as you can still use your defender off road), it is a sort of half way between the original Series Landy's and a Defender. Then when ready re-chassis your Defender at your pleasure, I agree don't do a full restoration. Only replace what really needs replaced, if bulkhead etc is really bad then maybe better replace, if not too bad fix what is needed. I always think best to keep as much of the old parts as possible, helps keep it authentic to the original vehicle. I am restoring a Series 3 just now replacing only where it is really necessary. Stripping paintwork back to bare metal, didn't mean to but to get old paint smooth only way. Has big dings and little ones. Will fix big ones but leave the small ones (gives character lol), will be used off road so no point being too perfect. P.s If you haven't noticed I am a Series 3 fan lol. Over here in UK you just have to declare a vehicle SORN'd (Statutory Off Road Notice), you keep the plates. We have to MOT every year, our road tax is also by emissions (actually called vehicle excise duty now) but vehicles over 40 (classed as Historic vehicles) are MOT and road Tax exempt. Sorry a bit of a ramble, but hope it helps.
Thanks for the input. I'm really torn as to what to do at this stage. I'd love to crack on with fixing it but knowing the cost (the tax) of actually putting it back on the road once it's finished is rather discouraging.
Yep... a soft restoration... is the way to go.....I think.... It will also make great videos for us all... keep the videos coming, always look forward to a new video....👍
Very interesting seeing your work. In Ireland road tax is similar cost unless it's a van .so most farm 4x4 have no rear seats and have rear windows sheeted up. Is that a option for you?
I got free road tax on an old Landy S1 years ago. I had to go to the office in person the first time for it and Yes, they DID ask me if I wanted 6 months or 12 months! Go for a std chassis and Waxoyl it, way better long term than a galvanised one. If you weld bits you eventually have to weld the next bits to them, and yes I have welded plenty.
Do vehicles qualify for heritage status in Denmark? In the U.K. it’s a rolling 40 years and it means the vehicle is exempt from road tax. It’s also exempt from the MOT but many still get that done because it’s peace of mind. Good luck with the project.
Well If you are worried about passing your td5 try your luck rolling a 40+ yr old series through an mot/tuv/vrt... The concern for rust.... even decats, straight through exhausts or egr delets may cause you issues in certain countries...
Assuming Denmark is the same as Ireland (should be, EU harmonisation) 40+ year old is exempt from testing. Lots of "rebodied" early Range Rovers around here, look remarkably like Discovery 2s...
@@highloughsdrifter1629 harmonisation... Here in malta if it is vintage it has to be show concours level and not a daily driver to perhaps be a bit relaxed. Otherwise it is all eyes on you at mot/vrt.... The series workhorse is not the smartest option but anyhow ... Nothing compares 😂
Always jobs to do on a 20 year old vehicle that's been used offroad. New chassis or bulkhead pretty major undertaking but if it can be repaired with outriggers that's not so hard or expensive, otherwise where do you stop.
I’m selling my series 3… you should buy it ;). I love your Defender, but I would perhaps restore the original chassis. The galv chassis can be a pain with the electrolytic implications
Definitely put a marsland chassis under it i do a lot of them done 15 this year 90s 110 and a 130 just doing one for marsland now he is only down the road got a lot of experience with them if you need any information plz let me know very happy to help with parts you need and tips
Problem with a galv chassis is the electrolytic action it will cause the aluminium parts of the body to corrode badly. I know a guy who's done a few galv chassis swaps and he says he wouldn't do another one, better off with a new steel chassis and treat it straight away. Stop the rust from the start
True that. Treating a metal to some proper waxoil (inside and out) BEFORE it is actually rusty in most cases entirely keeps the rust away for years!!! I'd recommend dinitrol as cavity oil and since it's an offroader I'd do K-line kombiwachs wich is cablegrease mixed with a wax, so it doesn't stay permanently moist on the surface and therefore prevents acting like a dirt magnet.✌️
@@y4nnickschmitt brilliant so glad you agree I was expecting loads of people telling me I was WRONG and galv chassis is the best thing since sliced bread
Alex Wade, this is completely wrong!!! Galvanized steel is much less likely to cause corrosion with aluminium, than steel in contact with aluminium. Look at charts of galvanic corrosion. Zinc and aluminum are much closer than steel and aluminium.
I had a similar decision a couple of years ago and went for a new chassis. Wish I had done the bulkhead too, but the savings pot only went so far. So get that chassis swapped and make the videos about it! I am not at LRO as I am swapping my rusty doors for series style ones….
If you keep it off the road, it will degrade because you won’t use it much and will eventually just collect dust in the barn. Unless you get a series 3 to create content and income to help facilitate rebuild on the 90.
I’ve been living in Denmark for 20 years and prices of cars here are just ridiculous , where in Dk are you living ? I live in Slagelse on sjælland , Iam also on the hunt for my first land rover but let’s be honest there is no need for a LR in Denmark it’s so flat and boring 😂, great vid mate keep up the good work
Whatever you decide, it's sure to make some excellent content. Also, for the price of your road tax I hope your roads are absolutely spotless!. No excuses for ANY potholes when they're dipping their hands that far into your pockets.😂
only 1500 pounds road tax a year?? i'm jealous of that. in the Netherlands a disco 2 td5 would cost 3000 pounds a year and a diesel 90 2800 pounds. petrol cars are quite a bit cheaper my v8 disco 2 costs 1200 pounds a year but petrol it self is 1.5x as expensive as diesel over here they base the amount on the weight of the car and the fuel type and diesels that are older than 10 years pay an extra 3-400 a year on top of the prices i named earlier
life of a landrover......built Solihull UK....20 + years wear and tear and abuse....chassis gets rusty...usually cracks......patch welded.. and new rear cross meber fitted.......new out riggers fitted....at 25 years old...gets a bit too rusty and thin steel.....new chassis...... gives another 25 years of life..... i got an 1982 swb SIII diesel with Rocky Mountain overdrive....chassis totally gone....wiring totally uninsulated....so.....given enough time and money....swb SIII rebuild to do..... keep your defender...run it round the fields for fun....& go get a SIII proper leaf spring Landrover.....split screen....ear defenders obligitory..........Series III....you know it makes sense.....
@@TirsbaekTV It's increased slightly over the years but only a few 100 DKK. I know that the older yellow plate models will forever stay in the "vægtafgift" classification and therefore stay at a much lower tax rate compared to vehicles fitted with the yellow-and-white plates.
I have the same squeaky noise in my defender, also a defender of some one in the family also has it, so if you find where it is coming from. Please say it :)
Yeah but you can’t import anything until it’s 25 years old, in the UK you can import anything you want from anywhere in the world. And I’m not sure I’d want to live somewhere that allows any piece of shit on the roads, having watched Hoovies Garage Americans don’t seem to maintain their cars at all, quite nice knowing the cars around you have working brakes and tread on their tyres.
Buy an old original Land Rover 90 in poor condition. Buy a galv chassis for it and rebuild it with your td5 engine, drive train and all your toys and mods on you current td5! Then you get cheap tax, a rebuilt landy and your Td5!
Hmm yes, I think that’s called a ringer, last I checked that’s still illegal, and if registered properly should be on a Q plate registration, restore the TD5 keep it as your correct model year TD5, ‘bitsa’ and ‘hybrid’ Land Rovers are worth less than genuine matching numbers land rovers
Darren Chard no it’s not! Are you saying everyone who has a galv chassis and and an engine swap is driving a ringer? With that logic the creeper would be a ringer too. Also the q plate scenario is irrelevant because they’re in denmark so may have different regulations. I was suggesting buying an original 90, buying a new galv chassis for it, and sticking the td5 in it. Can then use any spares from the td5 if he needs them and definitely swap his accessories over from it.
@@pinkpotato1 no, an engine swap and a galvanised chassis is fine, what you are telling someone to do is basically rebuild their td5 and register it as an older Land Rover, this implies that you are fitting the registration and I.D of a very early 90 to a rebuilt TD5, that is a ringer. Q plate is not danish where do you get that from? Q plate is a vehicle of undetermined origin, lots of kit cars are Q plated, my 1/2 ton was on a Q, now properly registered as a 1979 which was its year of manufacture.
@@darrenchard2221 Where are you getting this from? I never said that! If they buy a new galv chassis for an old 90 then put liams td5 in it, then add all the wheels and accesories from the green one, its not swapping plates, registration or making a ringer! I said the Q plates wont be relevant because they live in denmark! So probably have different rules! Hence why hes always had danish number plates on and just had to give them back to the authority as he said in the video!
@@pinkpotato1 my mistake, genuinely never realised they’re in Denmark! I am trying to watch videos with my screaming kids in my ear and rioting in the living room!!! Rules will no doubt be different in Denmark. What I then fail to understand is why buy an old pattern chassis? You get an exact replacement for the td5 chassis. I never said that you said but that you implied. I have been land rovering for nearly 30 years now and have seen more than my fair share of dodgy rebuilt/restored/hybrid land rovers! Rules are certainly tighter in the U.K. now than they used to be, case in point would be a friends ‘series 1’ it’s a Range Rover! And the test centre he took it to for initial inspection wasted little time in telling him so! It’s now tucked away again while he decides what to do with/about it. All I would say to anyone who’s restoring/refreshing or modifying any vehicle be careful, make sure you know what you can and can’t do legally, and please don’t rush it! Take your time and do it properly it’ll last a lot longer!
Stop ✋ ….. my only drive … daily drive is my Land Rover 90” 1988 in vintage… wouldn’t enter my head to take it off the road …. My tax was crazy in Ireland 🇮🇪 before it went vintage… noise squeaks turn up the radio
£1500 for road tax!! that's a right old piss take!! I would give it a galv chassis, and roll out tidying it up. Such a shame you have had to pull the plates off it, in the uk, what you do is put a car on SORN, you keep the reg, but it has to stay off the public road.
Well, your TD5 is more eco-friendly than an electric vehicle! Coal powered power stations provide the electricity for electric vehicles, definitely not carbon neutral. Also, after 10 years electric car batteries need replacing. Disposal of lithium batteries is an eco-nightmare, so forget the whole government eco-labelling. Stick with Defenders..
Ummmm New Chassis????? Worth it? Very time consuming..... You do`nt want showcase condition. LR need to be driven! Series 2a might be better? I kind a like those ugly eyes too close to each other...? The said Km is not a problem with that motor so I heard! Do u really need to replace Chassis? You can replace bits and pieces like your rear chassis part??? Defender should be a forever car! Did you see the Duke funeral? You one is same colour! Thanks for the video!
Many many years ago, I had a Series 3, but it was mechanically kaput. I bought a rolled 110 and swapped the series 3 body onto the 110 chassis, engine, gearbox. Just buy a new chassis and swap all the bits. Easy ;). Or buy an E bike.
