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Cutting wheels are tungsten carbide: - don't go over a cut twice, it makes the wheel dull - each wheel is good for 3 - 5 cuts, then throw it away; it is dull - cutting oil helps, but the wrong kind makes the wheel dull - looking at the wheel makes it dull
Beautiful result Uri. One big thing which may be tripping you up is that you seem to be scoring the glass multiple times. That's generally a big no-no when it comes to glass cutting, and tends to lead to fragments being broken off rather than the crack propagating along the scoreline. Score once, snap once. Glass cutting is an art indeed!
Yes, I should have looked at videos before I attempted to do it myself. They make it look dk easy😅. Perhaps a thiner plate would have help aswell. I don't think I have the neck for glass work😂
@@urituchmanpigeon oh tell me about it, I gave it up long ago. Last time I tried was to make a custom rear view mirror for my van I ended up belt sanding it to shape 😄
Thanks, I appreciate it! I'm really not trying to be extra modest or anything, but when I see masters work online I can't help but feel a bit amateurish, which is totally fine by me.
couple tipps for cutting glass: 1: never cut twice over the same crack, it fucks up your cutting wheel. The one you used is probably pretty scuffed already. 2: tapping the cut with a hammer is a good way to deepen the cut. LIGHT hammer taps from the bottom (the uncut side) until the sound of the tapping changes 3: you can put some cutting oil on the cutter, it will make it last longer. 4: you can put something like terpentine where you will cut, it also enhances cutting power Beautiful piece! Seeing these kind of videos makes me want to get into crafting again. Also top notch editing haha
When I have to cut a glass bottle, I score the glass once and then run boiling water over the line, immediately followed by cold water. I alternate between boiling and cold water a few times and usually that will break the glass perfectly along the line. I wonder if that also works for sheet glass.
It'd definitely work! But not really necessary. 'Running' the line is pretty easy with gentle pressure either from running pliers or pressing the glass into a foam or soft surface will work, or very traditionally, just tapping. Bottles are hard mode@@eelcogg !
I've been working with glass for several years now, and i have some tips. 1. You should never cut twice. One firm but smooth cut only, or it won't break properly. 2. You have to use a cutting lubricant (kerosene is fine). This is applied to the glass where you will make the cut. 3. When trying to break out a circle, you must do it from the back. Support the top (cut side) of the glass, and push directly on the bottom (uncut side) of the cut. You will see it break a little, and you just "run" this break all the way around. After that, you need to cut a relief on each side (where the circle is closest to the edge) and take the trim (scrap glass) off in 4 separate pieces. This is because you cannot remove a circle from a hole that's exactly the same size as the circle.
"… engraving is inevitable so that's going to happen …" Thank you for reminding me that ornamentation does not have to be called for. I just replaced an 8lb (~4kg) sledgehammer handle and took the opportunity to mill flats on the side so I could engrave "Katy's Hammer" on one side and "Whosoever holds this hammer; should she be worthy, shall possess the power too… sunder timber" on the other. With flourishes of course, I am not an animal.
The glass is tapped exactly along the glass cutter's line until a crack appears under this line. and I highly recommend changing the roller tip to corundum or diamond, the rollers do not cut well.
Nope. Diamond only scratches the glass. The steel wheel creates a line of weakness in the glass and the fracture follows this line. Try scratchig a piece of glass and you will find that the fracture line does not follow the scratch.
@@tednelson5277 I think you may be confused, as everything you said is wrong. First off all that "weakness" you reference is the scratch. All glass cutters - steel, carbide, and diamond - score or scratch the glass in order to encourage the breakage to follow that line. It does not always follow the line, but that is due to the natural "grain" of the glass, not any artificial weakness caused by the steel cutter. Why would the weakness created by the wheel be off the path of the scratch anyways?
@@tednelson5277 i was try it a lot of time. line of weakness is pretty exist for scratch by diamond too, because fact of surface damage is enough for it with a little tapping. wheel instead require a lot of pressing for desribed result and often crack the glass if you press too strong. wheeel is advertised as a try to awoid tapping at all but it is not a good solution - just a cheap production. Additonally - wheel is awful for a small radius curves.
@@anatoliyzhestov3915 Sorry, but you are wrong. If the glass breaks wheel you use a wheel, you are no supporting the glass. Diamond only scratches. Ask any professional stained glass cutter.
@@tednelson5277 ask any professional you mention what he does and he will tell you - I draw hundreds of straight lines a day. In these conditions, a roller that can be changed frequently and is inexpensive is an advantage. But among those who do small, precise work with small radii and want to get a very clean and precise cut, the number of diamond glass cutters may a lot surprise you.
Cutting glass has been part of my profession for 24 years. It likes to fracture in straight lines, and in paths of least resistance. For that reason, scoring multiple times tends to cause jagged edges and additional fractures. A slow, deliberate and firm score works best. What can help with scoring is dabbing the cutter wheel on a sponge soaked in wd40. Idk why it helps, but it does. And when cutting circles/ovals score additional tangents to the circle so it looks like a whirlpool, making sure that there's about 5mm between the circle and the start of the tangent score. Tap the unsecured side of the glass, tracing the scoring. Tap the circular score first and gently so the scores become cracks. It will be visible when the scores crack. Once your circle is set, tap the tangent scores. The cracks should break to meet in the same direction on their own, and you can remove the loose pieces as they fall away. Thanks for uploading. I always enjoy your content❤
_"Idk why it helps, but it does"_ - it lubricates the wheel, so it rolls easier on it's axis, and then WD-40/ kerosene/ glass cutting oil (yes, there is such oil) seeps into the score (which is a miniscule crack in the glass) - i.e. capillary force "push" it into the glass, and it either reduces the attraction between glass molecules (van der Waals force?) or in some other fashion facilitates the propagation of the initial crack (which is caused by "scoring", and lies underneath it) - or both (can't remember now exactly). Also, "wiping off" the glass where you intend to make the score (just swipe yer finger across the glass) removes whatever dust have accumulated there and that helps to prolong the life of the wheel... or so I was told when I started my glazing job about twenty years before you did ;-)
@@davidhoward496 Also, I forgot to say, but then you might know it very well yourself, so all the following is probably "teaching a priest how to say Lord's Prayer" but I'll write it anyway ;-) So, high quality glass cutters have single wheel pivoting heads (so the head always stays 100% parallel to the direction of the cutting movement/ travel and/or the straight edge) and they have hollow brass handles which double as containers for cutting oil (which seeps down to the wheel lubricating it and wetting the score). Google for "silberschnitt oil glass cutter" (for example). For regular "dry" cutters there are so-called oiling stands available, in which you place a small piece of cotton cloth or felt (a piece of a paper towel would also do) soaked in cutting oil - when you don't use the cutter you place it in this stand, and whenever you want to make a score the cutting head (and the wheel) is already oiled. Also, I'm no longer doing any glazing (it's been "quite a while" since I quit it) - apart from occasional "could you help me, please?" for friends and such, and at any rate virtually all windows now use IGUs (aka double glazing units). Cheers!
trying new tools/workflow is always intimidating. I encourage you not to give up trying to incorporate those new processes. As much as I love seeing your brass/woodwork, It is refreshing to see you trying out new things and I hope you continue to do so.
It is awesome how much this man has evoled, and grown. Even his social skills talking to viewers are noticeably better. I am a fan of this channel definitely!
I've also had great difficulty casting detailed objects in tin, in high temp silocone moulds. Eventually I discovered that adding bismuth helps a lot (about 85% tin to 15% bismuth by weight). Then get it as hot as possible and pour it as fast as possible.
_Of course_ you made the fanciest glass cutter! You're Uri Tuchman-it wouldn't matter what thing you made, it could not possibly be less than the fanciest example of that thing in existence!
When you want to get good metal casting results with all these fine lines you have to use either that so-called "type metal" (alloy of lead, antimony and tin) or bismuth - as they EXPAND when they solidify, thus filling up all these intricate mould patterns. (Type metal was used to cast individual "letter blocks" used in mechanical typesetting in pre-computers prehistoric times.)
I used to be a “machine operator” for an aerospace contractor. Which is sort of like being a machinist without the in-depth knowledge… Man all I can say is you a fantastic craftsman! You make it look easy but that takes some real skill! Keep up the great work.
If you aren’t a master engraver who on earth would be? You do such beautiful work and I was quite surprised that you thought of doing it any other way.
You make me happy, Mr Tuchman. I admire your willingness to try new things, fail, and learn. I think you are the most amusing and engaging engraver on the internet, so you might not be the master but you are very watchable and that is why you get my attention. Thank you.
Awesome design. Almost all glasscutters sold have a small ball attached at the other end. It's used to tap-tap-tap on the glass score line from underneath. You need a striker to make your tool complete. And I think you already have it. Have you ever pistol-whipped someone or thing? Probably not. Anyway use the buttend of the pistol grip to tap the glass and cause it to break.
Ummm … out of curiosity I looked up “Creative” and “Awesome” and to my amazement, your picture was next to the definitions. Thanks pal, you’re wonderful (I’m hesitant to look that up).
I've tried casting tin with that same high temp silicone, casting a 3D printed coin. I think the problem we both ran into is that the tin cools too quickly. The mold needs to be a material that can be heated (sand, ceramic, etc) so the tin cools slowly and can get into all the nooks and crannies. In my case all the holes and imperfections made the coins look like old, corroded shipwreck treasure so it worked out okay.
I have a tip for getting the curved cuts, and cool enough, it's a secret feature you added to the cutter and didn't know it! Turn that sucker around and hit the glass with the butt of the gun multiple times along the scores. Not so hard to shatter it, but firm enough to make it vibrate. It causes micro fractures along the score lines, and eventually the microfractures will all connect and the glass will just pop apart where you scored it. On a standard glass cutter, that's why it will often have a large ball on the handle end, but the butt of the gun would likely work really well for that! Also, your work is really awesome and I love seeing your ideas to fix problems; like the offset screw that covers the pin.
While everyone is trying to explain how to cut glass, I just want to say that little Derringer is BadASS! Beautiful engraving, nice handle, clever hinge and the case is perfect! Good job. If you come to the Maker Faire in California, I'll see you there. Bicycle rodeo!
Cut on wood or a similar clean, hard surface. Glass is very hard and you need that support to cut cleanly. Also, no hammer. Tap from the back with asteel ball, or use glass breaking pliers. You're essentially making a stress riser, and then forcing a crack along this weakened area.
As a stained glass art maker, my advice is this: Glass cutting oil will improve performance and reduce chipping...or at least reduce the distance the chips fly, therefore being safer for your eyes. Also, please wear safety glasses when glass cutting! The oil reduces the wear on the cutting wheel because of the reduced friction.
If you heat the silicone mold up before pouring the melted tin, that might fix your proplem. That's how they pour scultping wax, which has the same problem you had with cold molds
This is so very very very beautiful, and as a glassworker I appreciate it so much!!!!!! Watching you try to cut glass without the correct breaking tools, and cutting twice though... 😛
Watching screws or bolts get made on a lathe feels insane every time I see it. Watching that big log of metal getting cut down so much until there's a tiny screw
I was in Glass industry for over 23 years .Never cut more than once... They do make different size cutting wheels .. Make up antifreeze n water for lubrication when you cut .
This "Golden Cut" brand reminds me of that Silberschnitt brand (German for "silver cut"), which was, if I'm not mistaken, a DDR "derivative" (knock-off) of West Germany Hartmetall glass cutters. EDIT - just checked it, seems like "it's the other way round" - i.e. Silberschnitt was West Germany brand and Hartmetall was DDR "derivative". And the quality of the wheel makes a "day and night difference" when it comes to glass cutting - so if you want to cut glass without any trouble get the best ones you can afford (within reasonable range, that is). This "home improvement/ hobbyist" brand is good just for that. Shops selling glazing tools and supplies sell cutting wheels "stand-alone" fashion, and there are plenty of sellers of these on all sort of internet selling platforms too. It's really worth getting high quality cutting wheels. Then there are different cutting edge geometries for various thickness of glass (thick glass requires different angle grind of the cutting edge, more obtuse one AFAIR) and then there some special "glasses" (like X-ray shielding glass, which is made mostly of melted lead oxides, or that "glass-ceramic" thingy for fireplaces, like Robax) which require dedicated wheels as well. Also, when cutting thick glass the force needed to score it is greater (thus different handles in such cutters) AND special pliers to run the crack, but when you use good quality new wheel the force applied should be "just enough" to score it - when you see tiny strands of glass flaking off by itself from the score (right after you made it) it means the force was too strong, and it will not only shorten the lifetime of the wheel (will blunt it, to put it bluntly... ;-) but this may actually worsen the quality of the cut. And while light "tapping" the glass on the opposite side (underneath the score) with a hard object does "open up" the crack, the edges of it (where you tapped it) will be wavy - for regular glass thickness (2 - 6 mm) simple breaking it with your hands should do (if the score is right), preferably with "pulling apart" motion added. Place the scored pane on a table so the score is still on the table but very close to the edge (5 mm or less) of it, hold it down with your left hand and "break off" that part outside of the table by pushing it with your other hand. Or when the pane is too big for it, just lift it a little and place some soft (but firm) object under the score at the edge of the pane (a wooden handle of a regular glass cutter, or a pencil would do) and gently press the pane with your both hands placed 5 to 10 cm away from the score. When the off-cut part is too narrow for any of the aforementioned methods use special pliers - regular workshop universal pliers are not suitable for this task. In a pinch they "will do", but very poorly - unless you have one of these special "parallel jaws" pliers. And at any rate the minimum off-cut width should be twice the thickness of the pane, or you may end up with a bit of a struggle and a rather jagged edge of the glass. And, oh, BTW - hardened steel DOES score glass, but it's rather special kind of steel, with a lot of cementite in it, and VERY hardened ;-) Looks like nowadays they make mostly carbide or PCD wheels though. Check the Bohle (Bohle AG) online store - bohle-dot-com.
On some glass heating works. Cut the groove and run the flame from something like a jet lighter along the scratch. You can hear it cracking and the crack propagating along the scratch. It works wonderfully, but not on every glass, some just break especially when there are multiple scratches from the cutter.
I second the comments saying that the casting molds need some "spouts". Places where the extra metal can go, chasing air out. But for such fine detail you probably need to use an injection mold. I tried making flat molds but the result needs a lot of additional work to remove excess metal on the back and possible re-work details. Having said that, the result is amazing, it looks so cool! I hope the client sends you photos of it in use
Uri, I think next big project will be investment casting. It will allow to have smallest details. You can nickel plate locally with a wet sponge. If your steel quenched in water then it is W1. O1 is quenching in oil. I had also negative experience with glass cutting. When you scratch the glas you create a weak zone. Doing it multiple times does not help and opposite. When you start applying stress it does not cocentrate if you have several scratches. Perfect video. As always!
I remember while taking a class in school for stain glass, the trick was to make one, hard, continuous cut, not several cuts. I recall needing quite a bit of pressure while using the cutter.
Scoring creates a fault line in the glass structure. Next time, gently tap the glass along that line from the other side with the end of a file to deepen the fault. Single or double-strength glass should snap easily after that. Also, be sure to score completely from edge to edge.
