I Was Dumb Enough To Put This Stuff On My Track (351) 

Hi Larry! Thanks for this presentation. Track cleaning is always an interesting issue. I remember when Wahl clipper oil was first suggested, it was controversial then and never stopped generating comment. One of my layouts is a display layout in a preserved depot with no climate control, so the doors are open during most operations. I used to use Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) for track cleaning and had good results, but in the last few years I have gone to using CRC 2-26 Precision Cleaner and Lubricant. Yes, it says it is a "lubricant" and obviously has petrochemicals in its formula, BUT I haven't seen it diminish tractive effort (but both my display layout and home layout don't have heavy grades). It comes in a spray can but I don't spray directly on the track, I use rags from old t-shirts. I spray the cleaner onto the rag and then swipe it along a section of track. The wheels carry the cleaner around the layout. Because of the open nature of the display I still have to periodically wipe along the track to reduce the accumulated gunk, but it wipes right off. I get my 2-26 at the local Home Depot (Electrical Dept) for less than 1/3rd of the item you recommend.

Hi Larry, I very occasionally, once a year or less, I put a tiny amount of Inox (a polarising spray) on a small piece of rag and wipe over my rails. I use a track rubber only to clean up after ballasting/painting. Otherwise a wipe with a champagne cork lifts any dirty spots and polishes the rails. It is easy to hold and covers both rails at once. When it gets dirty you cut a thin wafer off the end (or drink more champagne). Have a Merry Christmas, best wishes, Peter from downunder.

I've been using INOX for a couple year and it works great. I have a 2% grade on my N scale Layout with no problems at all. Bob

I bought DeoxIT D100L, I intend to use it on rail joiners on Bachmann EZ-Track, I am fed up with having to wiggle rail sections to eliminate Dead spots. I have used it as a contact cleaner with excellent results. I worked as an electronics technician, and Instructor for 27 years. I will try using it as described for rail cleaning.

Thanks Larry great information on track cleaning. I run home made cleaning cars like you have show. I also use Inox. Too much and the track becomes slippery. The cleaning car pads are made from p,y or marine ply. Instead of nails I use tap washers with the washer cut off.

I only use little dabs of it between the switching rails on turnouts, and it has completely eliminated dead spots in the switches. Also works well on the power-pickup wipers on locomotive wheels, and passenger car wheels. Noticable reduction in "flickering"...

I use Contact PRF 6-68 clean contact spray for the electronic. This can spray are dry oil-free cleaning spray and really works much better than gasoline and thinner.

I suspect that the variations in results reported could be due to the amount of application of the respective liquids

I really like No Ox on my O scale 2 rail layout. It helps if I run the layout frequently. I haven’t had to clean track for over a year.

Hi Larry! Great video and I am very much looking forward to your report! I remember seeing several of the no-ox ID videos and thought it was a great solution ... until I actually ran into some at work that we use for electrical connections. The consistency put me off and I never actually bought it to apply to my rails. Ron's video was very explicit about the fact that he used a very minimal application and that is probably why he had lesser effects, but I am very excited to find out how this new product DeOxIt works out! Currently I generally just wipe the track with a rag made of old t-shirts (already tumbled to that one! LOL) and run my trains a lot, which seems to help keep everything clean. But my layout is only just taking shape and I haven't started doing major scenery construction yet, so there is dirt and debris in my future! I am hopeful DeOxIt will make my life easier. 🙂

Could be that the problem people had with No Ox Id because they put too much on. I just purchased it and am looking forward to trying it after applying it the right way.

I've used CRC 2-26 for years to clean track and wheels $4.25 at Home Depot.

Very informative. I never did feel good about using No-Ox-ID, so I never did. Steve Brown's experience confirmed my suspicions when I watched his video on RU-vid several years ago. I have been using a product for the UK called Track Magic that works very well. Depending on how frequently you run your layout it last between 2 to 4 weeks. It really cleans well, and improves conductivity. I'm looking forward to your test. If it works well, I will switch products. It will be significantly cheaper.

I'm looking forward to see how it goes. I use just a Nickle or quarter on the track as the are nicke on nickle/silver that polish the track. Never use anything that scratches the rail. As the leave places for the gunk to settle into.😮

I run a small N guage railway and have found that ordinairy kitchen universal spray clener, sprayed on a clean rag works wonders .You'd probably have to hunt a wee bit to find a MODERN cleaner that suits , but its way cheaper than specialised cleaners and works perfectly fine. :)

Nice guide. I use INOX MX3 for the final finish which I believe is a similar formulation to Deoxit. Interesting enough there is a theory that the 'polarity' of the cleaning product for heavier cleans can make things worse; apparently methylated spirits (denaturated alcohol) should be used in preference to IPA.

Track maintenance is required regardless of how many trains pass per day. Even if the average is once per day, I would clean my tracks at least twice a year.

I've always said that if you ask 50 model railroaders what is the best way to clean your track, you'll get 100 answers as what is the best way. I've tried them all! I'm no electronic genius, by any stretch of the imagination, but my understanding is that the way to get the best power transfer from your track to your locomotive is to have a clean avenue of travel. My latest adventures was the cleaning track with Mineral Spirits and applying NO-OX-ID. In my situation, it worked great--for a while, until my locos starting sputtering in certain area of my N scale home layout and when I took a cotton rag and wiped the rails (N scale) it looked like someone drew lines with a permanent marker! My layout room is a room built in the single stall of a 3-stall garage. Even though it is completely insulated, with no windows and the entry door has weather striping applied around it and the room is tied into the house's air conditioning system (a necessity in the summer month's, in Bakersfield, California), I continue to get the skid marks when wiping the rails. I believe Larry hit the nail on the head where the NO-OX-ID "grease" properties attracted all the dirt, hair and everything else, and it sticks to the track. So, I guess I will give this technique a try and see if my track stays cleaner any longer than it does now.

I'm sticking with the cloth over the fingertip. Simply because it works for me, I run trains daily, it's been many months since a dirty rail caused any issue. I evidently have cultivated some nicely conductive dust in my rails and don't want to strip it out and start over.

Excellent information Larry. I have been using no ox id for my n scale coffee table layout but I am glad I watched this before I build my Ho scale modular layout where I will have much longer trains. This has really gave me a new point of view on track cleaning and it is greatly appreciated. I think this subject is the most important topic in model railroading because it can turn people away from the hobby when they are spending too much time trying to just get the trains running. Merry Christmas!

I have been using CRC for over 25 year on both my old N scale and my HO current layout It is an electrical cleaner sold at Home Depot I also use alcohol

Hey Larry! I enjoyed this video very much. I work at Tony's Train Exchange and I can tell you that not only is Larry Maier a very accomplished and experienced model railroader, but he is a brilliant engineer as well. If he recommends the DeoxIT for cleaning tracks, then he has thoroughly tested it and knows that it works extremely well without pretty much any of the drawbacks of the other cleaning solutions widely used to clean tracks. Our CMX Clean Machine track cleaning car is a perfect way to dispense this solution and clean your rails at the same time. We also use the DeoxIT all the time when working on locos after we do repairs or upgrades to DCC or Sound for customers, and it is truly an amazing product. It can instantly improve conductivity on even some of the oldest and most troublesome locos. I'll look forward to seeing your follow up video on how this worked on your helix.

Mineral spirits, then a VERY LIGHT bit of graphite. I pretty much never have to clean my track (other than after scenery construction), I just run a car with a Masonite pad slung under it wiper around once in a while to get the dust off. No-ox-ID was a disaster for me. Caused major wheel gunking.

Great show Larry. Merry Christmas .

I got my DeoxIT in today, I'm going to try it out as well.

It's my personal opinion of over 60 years as a model railroadering. There's no such thing that makes any model railroadering track you don't have to clean. There's no such thing. It's a mith. Brass, steel, even plastic rail has to be cleaned at some point or some section will have to be touched up occasionally. You can't get around it. I do all scale's. It's just something has to do. Cleaning your track is just something everyone has to do. Some track has to be cleaned more often. I use a track eraser, and a track monkey on the last car to be pulled around when running trains. About once a month I have to do a touch up cleaning on a spot that prevents good contact to get the train through. It cheaper than these other methods and less time consuming. And I'm running trains 6-8 hours every day running trains in both directions. I stay with what I actually knows what works for me. Using the KISS system, Keep It Simple Stupid. I taught the KISS system for four years in the Air Force training people for years. I just know what works, cost effective and less effort you are wasting time and money on that really doesn't work and I've used them all. For the last 14 years running steel track I do a touch up on a small section with a track eraser maybe once every two or three months if not 6 months. I have longer time running trains and less derailings. I just don't have them. You can decide for your self as everyone should. I choose over 14 years old. It works for me personally.

I use graphite. It is cheap, works fine, avoids black gunk and I don’t have to clean the tracks for months.

Almost every club I have visited or interviewed have said the best way to keep track clean is to run trains a lot more:):):)nnfun! Real tracks shine when they are used a lot....

I saw all three videos that Rons Trains N Things posted about no-ox-id. His comments about traction in the second video were almost no loss of traction and included testimonials from people who had been using no-ox-id for years without problems. In the third video he mentioned losing one car on the 2% helix and that people who had been experiencing traction problems were using too much no-ox-id on their track. The Deoxit sounds better though.

all you need to clean track is very fine grit sandpaper and just lightly rub it on the tops of the rails you need nothing else ... and for people who cant think saying it will mess up the tack - IT WONT .. i said FINE GRIT and LATELY use it

Best thing to do is put a stand alone air filter in your basement that runs 247

I heard rail zip is dexron II ATF repackaged?

I am going to use Deoxit on my layout what is the best way to clean the movable rails on the n scale turnouts? I need to have good contacts because they control the turn out led lights.

Hi Larry I tried Amazon over here in the U.K and they want a arm and a leg for it £ 42 .for the small bottle you are showing on RU-vid so not for me mate, the price would have to come down a lot. I wonder if it was import tariffs causing the high price maybe . any way good video as usual. cheers mate.

Hi Larry. I'm sorry if this causes offence to others but to *not* use the products you warned us about is a no-brainer! I bought the UK version of what you call a Bright (Brite?) Boy but have never used it because it is abrasive. DeOxIT sounds interesting but I wonder whether it works any better than the Isopropyl alcohol that you diluted it with - it would be interesting if you were to make a video making a direct comparison. For us suckers in the UK, just a bottle of DeOxit (without the dropper) costs £42 +- a few pence. Wishing you and your family a very Merry Xmas and all best wishes for the New Year.

I am an Analog Märklinist and never clean track, only wheels. :)

Larry, what is the ratio of deoxit and alcohol. I don’t want to use the whole bottle of deoxit.

I use No Ox ID. If you are losing tractive effort, your using too much! It takes only a little. The trains spread it around. And it does what it advertised. Good electric contact. The back is also oxidizing nickel silver rail. If you run with Dust monkeys and fiber board track cleaners, you have little dirt issues.

I use white spirit to clean my track seems to work

I wonder how many of us really would run into problems with pulling power and slipping wheels tue to stuff like No-ox-id. If it's really making it so you don't really need to clean track, that sounds good. For one thing, about half of my switches use the point's contact with the stock rails for power, so I don't really think any of that will matter. As well, "it's not made to clean your track" doesn't seem like the best reason to not use something. I mean, cork isn't meant to clean track, is it? That's how you figure stuff out. "Hmm, I wonder if it'll work." I wonder how many people under 50 have a wife that have a rag bin or old hosiery like so many people seem to think. I just need to keep going back to the curiosity of how many people actually worry about traction when using no ox id. It was kind of hard to sit through this though with so many thoughts.

Lets see...a volatile organic liquid and electricity. Bad combination

Is that a pint or a quart?

I use isopropyl. Been using it for over a decade. Fastrack, tubular & atlas. Works fantastic. Everyone has an opinion. If you're flooding your track with any cleaner you're gonna have problems. Moderation.

It’s hard to beat alcohol! I am a fiber optic splicer and have access to 100% isopropyl alcohol. 100% is super, it’s just you have to be careful and not get it everywhere. It does mess with glues, plastic, etc. it’s much more strength, but it does evaporate much faster. It can be hard to get though. 90% is used in big truck air lines. 100% alcohol and a lint free microfiber cloth and only grease is elbow grease!

Try ammonia free glass cleaning, it works great

Lol…no ox I.D.? Lol…it’s NO OXIDE; get it? I’ve used this for decades on outdoor electrical connections. Who EVER thought it would be a good idea to grease the rails??!! Just idiocy.

It's $33 now.

I never posted a video on my channel about it but I also tried NoOxID on a small test track that I set up just for that purpose. It was all brand new Kato Unitrack and putting the NoOxID on it didn't work out well for me at all. I had pickup issues on both DC and DCC no matter how carefully and lightly I attempted to apply it. Thankfully it was easy enough to strip back off since it was only a small track of loose pieces not anchored down to anything but it was a larger pain cleaning it off of my test locomotives. And for me one of the larger things was that it attracted dust out of the air. Which, in my area, is a big deal since it's just dusty where I live. Not I just use odorless mineral spirits and a clean lint free cloth and just do so regularly. When it comes to flash fire attempts I don't believe I have ever come close to a vapor saturation point even remotely dangerous. Same with using isopropyl alcohol. Now gasoline? Yeah I think i'd draw the line on that one.

An Aussie channel recommended INOX MX3 a while. We have tried it on the club's N gauge layout, Wickwar. We apply it, very sparingly, with pieces of 2mm card and then go over it again with some clean pieces of card to remove any excess. It has given good results over the past season.

Have been using INOX for a few years now and it’s great. Yes I made some mistakes by applying too much but got it right. I keep a lint free piece of material with INOX on it and just wipe the tracks occasionally. I had to cover the layout because of house renovation works for 8 months. I took the covers off eventually and without touching the rails with anything trains ran perfectly. I will never use anything else again and I would advise those that can’t get it right to stop and think about what you are doing. To say you don’t need much is an understatement.

Couple things to consider... Mohs Scale of hardness when using some type of "track rubber." Nickel is a 4 on the scale, anything harder than that can scratch your rails. Masonite is a 2-3 on the scale so no harm will come of the rails. You can scrub the rails with Masonite as hard as you want and no damage should come to the rails in terms of scratches. One other thing to consider is humidity. Water vapor in the air (which is "polar") combines with the metals to attract dust, dirt and oxidizes the rails over time. A dehumidifier will help reduce these effects. Dehumidifier also helps with benchwork warping and prevents mold and mildew.

Two thumbs up! It's always good to get information on track cleaning dos and don'ts. Let's face it, NO ONE gets into this hobby so they can can enjoy the opportunity to clean tracks!

I've used DeOxit for decades on my audio system. It definitely makes a difference. An audiophile from Japan came over for a listen and commented that he thought the right channel sounded better, clearer. I had only gotten around to cleaning all the right channel connections with DeOxit. I've used DeOxit in my model railroad too, although I was using it straight out of the bottle, which did build up some gunk over time (years), and ironically, seemed to actually improve traction even though the gunk was there. Electrical conductivity was still excellent however. I've never tried diluting it. I would also be careful what kind of isopropyl alcohol is used for dilution. Many isopropyl alcohol products are "rubbing" alcohol and contain some lubricants which we don't want on the tracks. Isopropyl alcohol is also highly flammable.

As soon as you pointed out that NO-OX-ID is a grease, I did the biggest face-palm ever. How could anyone think that greasing your track is a good idea?

I start with small vacuum to all the rails; using natural dusting brush. Then light application of CRC 6-56 (displaces, penetrates, protects). Zero VOC’s; with micro fiber cloths, or t shirts. Use as little as it takes to do the job (this is always the key with anything used on track).. Sometimes use alcohol and m. spirits; but ONLY on track that has not been installed on the layout. Older, used track generally. So there. I clean and electrically condition track perfectly before using on layout. Then going forward, all that is ever needed is vacuuming and fluid cleaning. I do use No-Ox ID; but as instructed (thin application and wiped well so no grease residue is left). Results? less light flickering and smooth running engines....

Interesting video. I have to wonder how much of the tractive effort loss is due to user error in application. CAIG, the makers of DeoxIt, state that this product is a conductive lubricant, just as No-Ox-ID is. On the other hand, Sanchem says that No-Ox-ID paste can be used in situations where you definitely wouldn't want any possibility of additional slippage, like securing guy wires and other clamped or screwed "industrial" fittings. Seems at first glance like six one, half-a-dozen the other...

I have a three level around the room layout with a 2% nolix connecting the levels. I have used noox for about 10 years now. Many of the advocates for noox repeatedly say you must use a MICRO thin amount, not a greasy layer of the stuff. When I have had a few locos that lose pulling power I simply doublehead up the grade, just like the prototype. But I never have to take track cleaners to the rails with laborious reaching to the back of the layout etc. I suggest NOT taking ANYONE'S advice and try it for yourself on a test section of track. My layout sat for nearly 1 1/2 years with no use. When I went back locos would not run, the track was too dirty. With a VERY THIN application of nonox, and running my most reliable loco until it stopped and then adding a tiny amount more of nonox, I had all 60 of my locos running the entire length of my three levels in about an hour's time with no elbow grease invested. Just letting the loco do all the work. Good luck with any other cleaning method, and you might be convinced to try nonox.

I operate a Marklin digtal system on stainless steel marklin C-track. ALL my loco's have rubber tyres. I do NOT (repeat do NOT) want to use abrasive blocks (creates micro groves). My track is not damaged, and is well looked after and in emaculate condition. I have watched hundreds of track cleaning video's and to be quite honest I am none the wiser. Totally confused. Some say "this" others say "that" and so on. Can someone who is an authority on this subject please tell me what cleaner to use that 1) is grease free 2) leaves no residue 3) does NOT damage rubber tyres, ànd 4) not create micro grooves in the track. Yes, I am looking for a product that meets ALL the 4 points above. There HAS to be a solution to this subject that just goes around-and-around in circles. Kind regards, from Keith Heuer, Cape Town, South Africa.

Sorry, Larry but I have to disagree with you on at least two points. If you’re slathering on NO- OX ID on your track, you’re applying it incorrectly! One applies a very thin coating, which is followed by wiping it off immediately. My layout is located in a marine environment where corrosion occurs rapidly. Whereas before treatment, the tracks required aggressive cleaning with a bright boy every week, a light swipe with a lint free cloth (on this we agree) to remove dust and dirt on the track, I’m ready to run. As for using IPA, especially a 91% solution, you don’t think that’s flammable? I’d sooner use paint thinner! And remember, alcohol fires are invisible! Go back and do proper research before you espouse knowledge of the subject. Reread the article in Model Railroading .

I think anyone with a large layout cringes at the use of cloth. Every switch is a potential snag and trashes points. I for years have used the finest Sandflex blocks and a roller train with alcohol on the lead roller. On the other end i clean is loco wheels with alcohol AND then with CRC 2-26 on the wheels. With this film on all locos it spreads a small amount all around the layout. Note this includes all the switch engines. Works great.

Really appreciate this video, and if you would enable the RU-vid "Thanks" button, people could put some coffee money in your tip jar.

If you go back and watch all the videos from Rons Trains and Things on NoOxID you will see that his tractive effort loss was only ONE car on his helix with a 2% grade. Furthermore, Ron stated that after 2 years in a dusty basement, it was the first time he had to go back and clean his track. So is two years between cleanings and a one-car loss on a 2% grade really a failure? Now I know that just because it worked for Ron does not mean that it will work for everyone.

Have you tried Inox MX3 with the Noch 60156 track cleaning pads........works a wonder. Remove the pads every now and again (when they look very dirty) wash them, allow to dry, respray the Inox mx3 on them and reattached to the cleaning car.

Hi Larry, I started using CRC2-26 on my large N Scale layout. It cut track cleaning to running my vac car around for dust. There was an occasional reapply on grades. But it worked great for me.

Hey Larry, I use CRC quick dry electrical contact cleaner - what are your thoughts ? Thanks, Ron

I've used ronsonal lighter fuel (for wick lighters) for over a decade, never had an issue. A few drops on a cotton swab. Slowly rotate the swab as you run it along the rail heads. It's really hard to imagine a scenario wild enough for this to cause a fire. The main ingredient in DeOxit is mineral spirits, so it is very nearly just as flammable.

Damn. I don't even currently have a working layout. But, I work in the electronics and printed electronics industry and I could have told anyone who asked that the No-Ox-Id was the totally WRONG product for model railroad application. It's really designed for high friction male/female or pin connectors that have been given a tight fit for anti-vibration purposes and to keep out oxidization (oxygen contact) and for marine use/water proofing. Yes, its electrically conductive but its secondary function is as a petroleum based insulator. By the way, WD-40 has silicone in it. Silicone is a dielectric....and insulator. Very poor for current transfer. The De-Oxit products used to be marketed by Caig corporation as Pro-Gold....FANTASTIC product. I use the De-oxit product on electronic fuel injection system contacts. They have two levels of products. One for actually dissolving (electrolytically) the oxidation from the metals....but they have a dual use product that actually IMPROVES connectivity. I still do not know if it would cause slippage but its the best product system i have ever seen for what it does.

I think in general having any conductive oil, grease or fluid along with other oils or cleaning stuff is very un-wise. About a year a go I spent a long time fixing a engine with dual motors. Wondering why the motors would spark and jerk often. My only guess is someone oiled the bearing with conductive oil, and before I got the engine it was no longer running, and the reversing electronic board needed to be repaired as well. All because conductive oil got into the motor brush contacts, shorting out the circuits. .

As always great content. My two cents, I have had great results with NoOx ID. Again, there are lots of variables with use and application. Less is more. Ron mentioned this I believe and Steve I believe admitted he may have been heavy handed. From what I understand it helps with the microscopic pits in the rails from sparks and abrasion. I have a relatively small layout with consists of 7 or less cars. I don’t run them nearly enough but with NoOx ID I found from sessions with lots of no run time in between the tracks stayed very consistent with current for months to a year. Of course, using it doesn’t mean you’ll never have to clean again especially in an unfinished area like you mention. I am pleased with it. I know from my vintage synthesizer repairs and maintenance the detox it is great for electrical continuity so it makes sense to use for rails. May give it a try down the road. Thanks again.

Great video, Larry - thanks! I first used No-Ox-ID in April of 2022, right after Ron gave his glowing recommendation. Overall, I've been very pleased with the results. I started by cleaning all of my track thoroughly with mineral spirits; then I applied a *thin* film of No-Ox-ID to about 3 inches of track, then ran a locomotive over all of my track for about 8 hours. Finally, I wiped the excess No-Ox-ID off of all of my track. I have not had to clean my track since - just over 18 months now. I've never had an issue with traction, probably because I have quite a small layout and a 10 car consist is extraordinarily long. That said, I am mindful of the long-term accumulation of dust on the track, so I will wait eagerly for your update.

Some folks have had good results with CRC Electrical Contact Cleaner.

I have been using a piece of Veg tan leather glues to a little wood block with a stone ruse on it. Think stropping a razor it leaves a super fine finish on the rail almost mirror like over time.

I use an electronic cleaner from my favourite radio part shop that evaporates quickly. It's safe on electric and plastic parts.

Inox MX3, a wipe over and also use for lubing the trains and they will run smooth as...

So, no mineral spirits because it's flamable rubbing alcohol, which is also highly flamable, is totally fine. 😂😂😂

I only use WD-40 Specialist Contact Cleaner. Spray some on a blue shop paper towel, wrap it around a small block, and rub it across the top of the rails. Also clean the wheels with it as well. We use this contact cleaner at work, and it performs very well.

Hi Larry. I came across a product called STRIKE HOLD, which was developed for the US armed forces in Afghanistan to keep dust and sand from fouling their firearms. It is a cleaner and lubricant but DRIES without a sticky residue. I bought some to use on my firearms, then decided to try it on my layout because of the non stickiness. I live in a coastal town of Yeppoon, Queensland Australia, and it is quite humid most of the time and as you can imagine has a lot of salt air as it is on the coast. I apply the Strike Hold by putting it on a lint free rag and wipe it on my tracks. I have a helix with a 2% grade and do not have any traction issues. I might run my trains if lucky maybe twice in two weeks, and I have not required to clean my track for 6 months. I used Inox beforehand, it was good but not nearly as good as Strike Hold. Cheers from Australia

As a model railroader, and, professional firefighter, DO NOT use gasoline! Most people have no idea how dangerous gasoline is.

It might not help in a big basement or attic layout, but for smaller rooms I've found that some good quality air purifiers really help keep dust off the track. I have never used any chemicals, only the rubber abrasive pads that come with the Tidy Track system about once a month. It's been running reliably for over 2 years.

Hi Larry and Merry Christmas to you and your family. I am glad that you are looking into this product and I look forward to the future results. Track cleaning is the bane of all model railroaders and a reliable solution would be wonderful.

I use wd electrical contact cleaner. This is NOT the same ss normal wd40.

Hi Larry, as always very insightful and informative. I will wait for your results and conclusion on the DEOXIT. I have been using Track and Rail Cleaner ACT-6006 by Aero-Car Hobby Lubricants. I've had great success wit it but would like your opinion on this product, i only have a small layout and I am getting ready to move and build a larger layout. Your thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks again, looking foward to the next video.

I get the concern about flammability for all the normal reasons, but I'm curious how those reasons apply to use on model railroad track. Are you concerned about simple storage of the containers in your home? Use of the product in a non-ventilated space? Fear that a tiny spark from a low amperage system may set the layout on fire? I think the volatile vapors dissipate pretty quickly that I wouldn't imagine that a spark from a locomotive passing over the rails would ignite the tiny amount of liquid leftover on the rails from cleaning them, or am I wrong? I'm just trying to understand the concern, because all the normal stuff I'm well aware of and can manage like every other dangerous chemical I store and work with in my home. I would just like to make sure there's not something I'm missing about using mineral spirits as a cleaning agent for my track. Thanks for anyone's help.

Good video, well timed for those in the northern hemisphere when winter stops outdoor play. I wrap a white cotton cloth around a sanding block and spray it with CRC electrical contact cleaner (Inox in UK, Australia, New Zealand) which is safe for plastics. I can reach every part of my track and can clean beside station platforms by flipping the sanding block on its side. Have a look at fishplate films on this subject. He is an electrical engineer but his video is hilarious as well as being very informative. I switched to CRC after watching his video.

I have been watching some of your videos this past year. You may have talked about it, but this video brought some questions up. I finished putting down the last piece of track yesterday. I'm ready to start weathering the track and ties. I was going to spray a thin coat of paint on the track. Then clean it off with paint thinner. But you make a great point about flammable. What do you recommend for this next step.

Not only collects dust but could potentially get up inside of you motor as well an the contacts an possible shorts could happen let alone damage as well to gears ect. The tiny bit you think will not cause trouble will build up over time an likely would be needed to clean the wheels regularly to keep buildup of the dirt an grease from doing damage a lot more. I love you videos an wish I had listened to my dad about this stuff too he was so very right as well too lol. Do they make a mini vac track cleaner and how do you keep the cleaner car from causing a shot if it's one big wet clean pad would not two small ones for each rail be more safe?

Come on....be serious...IT SHOULD NEVER BE APPLIED SUCH THAT IT WOULD TAKE A WEEK TO CLEAN OFF... and its USE on track and its USE on switches that experience harsh weather are apples AND oranges.....my guess is that for track they are talking about a very light application that is rubbed in ,, almost rubbed off as far as a surface deposit....its Just to prevent oxidation of the metal surface

Those that didnt get good results with No-ox ID used it wrong..i find it impossible for it not to work... i have a garage layout and l ive in the desert. I had givin up on it because it never ran well, if at all, constant cleaning with very temporary, like hours, results Disvovered No-ox id 6 months ago, trains run fantastic, had a temporary traction issue on grades, after about a week slippage was no longer an issue and trains still run flawlessly. If i start to see any sign of flickering or hesitation i run the CMX (dry) for a lap or 2 on the mains, wipe the spurs and the yard tracks with a tidy track and all is well...i try to vacuum everything every other.week or so..NOOX Id is nothing.short of a miracle fix and nobody can tell me any.different

I use a mix of Cayenne pepper, mustard, ipecac, asafoetida, croton oil and gunpowder.

Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) is polar, so it will also attract dust and dirt. IPA also promotes microscopic electrical arcing, which causes the black crud that forms on the rails and gets dragged around by the wheels. You should use non-polar substances, which is why some model railroaders prefer mineral spirits. Since you mentioned flammability as a concern for mineral spirits, you should also be aware that IPA is also flammable.

Hi Larry, Great Video and a Merry Christmas to you and your family. I also have to question weather NoOxID A Special is really conductive? I purchased a little jar, and using a brush painted some on a piece of paper. I then took my Volt Ohm meter and tried to read the resistance of that painted strip. The reading was infinity, so to me that is not conductive? The product I've been using for the past 10 years or so is called DeoxIt D5 in a spray can and is labelled as "Safe on Plastics". I use it the same way, but directly out of the can sprayed onto a lint free cleaning rag. I've also been using the DeOxIt D5 on the bronze contact strips that connect the stock rails to the point rails in Atlas Custom Line Switches, to help remove corrosion between the bronze strip and the rail. Also for the elbow grease method, I prefer the Cratex Cleaning Blocks, they seem less abrasive than the Bright Boys. Cheers, Rich S.

Why do we have to win the lottery to be able to afford this stuff?

I thought I was going crazy. I used No ox ID as outlined in RTNT .- my track attracted alot of dust as a result of using this grease. alot of black grime. Thanks for sharing Larry. Happy New Year !

Steve Brown is a flake, look where he is now trying to make music videos

I just use a small piece of 2x2 wood, works great and no chemicals.

Howdie Larry i wanted to pass on my thoughts on your Video I thought it was Seriously informative & you made some Great points.. I use NO-OX-ID only to clean the Ends of Slide Rails we're they butt up to the Stock Rail & I used it we're my Rails join in the Rail joiner in doing this I didn't have to power my Yard but eventually I will.. On all of my Track I use Inox Mx3 which is Non Toxic mater of fact the Inox i use, Larry can be used in Food Area's it says this on the Packaging the Reason I took to Inox was after watching Gregg's Fishplate Films videos on how the product was so affective when Gregg cleaned his Engine & Rollinstock I still used IPA for certain small parts of the layout so I hope Gregg don't Holler at me too much most to remove paint from Weathered Microtrains trains cars i wanted to add Larry i just bought a New Atlas Engine with DCC it wasn't wanting to run as I hoped it would but after a good cleaning with inox which took off a ton of black Gunk its running Normal & sounds pretty good Its Atlas SD-9 with ESU Lok Sound.. One stuff I absolutely positively WONT use & you said it Best Larry to use it your putting yourself & others at Risk & that's Mineral Spirits there's more than just your Railroad if your Railroad is in your home 🏡 Your Cloths Dryer, your Hot Water heater & lets not forget the Furnace especially if they're a Gas one spark from that stuff & its Game over I'm not really into using anything that can potentially be toxic especially if its used in the same place I live & sleep in.. If I was doing a fairly large layout using foam or I had to use products that you had to use to help build the layout I'd probably build it in large Work shed or small building we're I currently live in Apt. There's windows but not enough windows to vent properly but my hopes are to Expand in the near future.. But I'd surely like to give the product you mentioned a Try.. thanks Again for making this video hope you had a good Christmas Allen D

Using a Bright Boy causes deep visible scratches in the rail heads, won’t those ultimately make matters worse? You can always tell track thats virgin vs if it’s ever been touched by a bright boy.

Larry, The Masonite slider works fantastic for me. (no chemicals, abrasives, greases or over complicated/problematic cleaning cars). I choose to use them on cars with a drop down style side frame which disguises them. They run continuously and my rails look perfect. The other advantage is they clean hard to reach areas like tunnels. They are also easy/cheap to make and easy to maintain. If your rails are in really bad/neglected shape, use one of the other methods to get them reasonably clean and then switch over to Masonite which gently polishes the rails. Thanks for the idea!! They work for me and I think it's absolutely the perfect solution. I've thought about rubbing the Masonite surface with a carpenter's pencil (ie graphite) but haven't found a need to.

Well since the bigggest scale doesn't use grease why the hell would you put it on your own scale track

Amazon US has been watching the video, they put the price up to $59 😂