I had this issue with my evo big twin as well! I ended up dremeling out the channel that the screw goes through on the points to allow them to close down further. Takes only a few seconds and makes the points usable
Hey, sorry once again but you can telle how you have your cv carb set up? Do you have any c-clip on the need have if you do what the position, with or without shims. I have a 1100 xlh with a 96 sportster carb with 50 pilot jet and 180 main. Best regards
Hey Amigo, have some problems with my 86 xlh 1100, i start her up ride and sounds real good and enjoy for a few miles but every time i stop like couple off hours She starts but rides realy bad, Boggs and rough idle, can you help me with this? Cheers
This honesty makes your channel worth while watching! We all have been there, or we will be there one day that we will have to face reality as is, just like you did. You're so lovely down to earth, easy going and honest about things, you make us feel better about the mistakes we make ourselves ;-)
I love the CVs ... I have a few S$S carbs sitting on my shelf because that is the first thing I swap out when I get a new project. I can pick up a take off CV for cheap at swap meets and mod them using CV Performance kits and have a great running carb ...
@@1down4upworkshop61 The CV Performance guy makes good parts. He makes a good needle that works great without shims and he carries good replacement CV parts, not the overseas crap . I messed up and bought a rebuild kit off Amazon because my accelerator pump diaphram was old and brittle and the new one was terrible. CV Performance's diaphram was night and day better. My local HD dealer acts like they are doing you a favor to sell you parts, so I try to stay outta there, if possible.
Man - all you needed to do was elongate the slots on the points backing plate a drill bits width. That will give you all the options for timing you need. 30 second job with a drill -good luck 😎.
You have your bike looking really good man! Gosh I sure wished I had the space to build a bike. Sure do enjoy your build vids. I sure have learned a lot from them.
Coming from a points and condenser generation it was a major improvement to go to electronic ignition. When you went to points all I could do is shake my head and wait, knowing you'll find out. I like to take old shovelheads put electronic ignition in them with an upgrade on the output of the alternator, valve seals, cv carb and 5 speed tranny with a wet clutch. That bike will make all the power you need and run forever, unless you are packed heavy then a little stroke might be in order. Later my friend. Always enjoy your content.
Pull the solenoid cover. Then activate solenoid manually by pressing the rod inside. If it starts its a wiring/fuse/circuit breaker issue. If it just trys to turn over you need new solenoid.
I love my EVO but being from the Iron and shovel generation, everything is new! And a learning curve! LOL But watching you helps me NOT make the same mistakes! So thank you! Keep the rubber side down! And keep the vids coming!!
Outstanding my friend! My 1979 Electra Glide FLH King of the Highway full dresser Shovelhead is running Dyna S and two 5-ohm coils since engine upgrades in 2001. No worries. If you do change to electronic ignition don't ever leave the ignition on and walk away! It will be smoked when you get back... Here is a short & interestingly article about reading your spark plugs...
I have battery on the brain, It can say 12.2 to 12.6 all day long, but the best way to test that is to hook up a 12v fan or something that really pulls current, because It can have a broken connection in the post inside the battery, and still read 12 v. and all the wiring will read 12volts, even fool a battery charger, and then maybe that solenoid switch inside the starter is full of copper dust, which keeps It from contacting solidly, the most often fail is the battery worked, before but.... connecting It over and over sometimes breaks something inside. My Harddrive Battery was junk in about a half a year..Brass terminals arent all that either.
I've been pretty lucky I only had one cracked the plastic inlet. I'm always amazed how that brass elbow does not leak, considering gas seems to get through any spot 😦
I enjoy working on a motorcycle. Wish I was computer savvy. You can get more HP. easier with electronics than the old school way. But it is fun to play with.
I think you gave up on points too soon. There are guys running them with no problems on Evos. The good kind have needle bearings on the advance weight pivots. The best points and condensors are Blue Streak brand. Don't trust an old condensor, or old advance springs.
@@stevegiannotti6700 The main problem with points is when the condenser is shot, It will spark but the coil only gets half signals and makes the coil take longer to recover, theres the miss.
@@stevegiannotti6700 Points are simple, you can easily carry spare parts to keep you from getting stranded. The only down side is having to do occasional maintenance.
I always like your videos. I am having a Vent here. A biker told me yesterday sportsters are a girls bike, well I disagree. I think they are iconic and a hardcore bike, way more than a dresser and on a rigid they are just so handsome, not to mention how reliable an evo sporty can be.
My 2000 XL1200C hard tail is running points and the power band is great. The mechanical advance mechanism has a 25° range so I set static timing to 40° fully advanced which means idle is at 15°, 5° earlier than expected but it works and the advance unit can always be modified to have a reduced 20° range. Also it's important to change the ignition coil to 5 ohm and use copper core plug wires instead of modern suppression core.
Apparently I'm one of the few who are still alive who built Racing Engines with points and condensers, hearing them ROAR down the back straight at Daytona and Talladega. And they never missed a beat for 500 miles, wide frigging open
I'll be honest with you get rid of the stock carb, and install a Mikuni TM or HSR series carb on your sporty. Once you get the TM dialed in they just work great, and seem to be a very trouble free carb for years. You can buy a HSR 42 for around $300.00 as a kit for your bike, and it will come with extra jets and instructions on how to properly tune the carb to your bike. I've been tinkering with bikes for over 30 years and I have learned the hard way about working on old worn out harley carbs. Another thing DO NOT put a S&S carb on your street bike that you dailey they are a race carb and do not have good manors.
@@SaddleTrampTV Check them out. Having one could be the difference of striping a carb screw or not striping a carb screw. A Harley mechanic i know with 30 years experience swears by JIS screwdrivers. This guy has so much knowledge about Harleys from the 60's- 2005. He was trained by this guy Hubs a ledgen in Harley repair. He started at a H.D. delership in Clifton New jersey in the 80's He has given me so much help with my FXR over the years. Most of it over the phone. Eric is as nice as he knowledgeable. I would like for him to get on youtube, but unless I win the lottery that will never happen.
Check out grease's garage videos on points for the evo. It IS possible, just use a different timing mark. I just ordered a points and auto advance for my evo
Cool sporty!!! I read that you can file down the points adjuster skrew knotch to allow more adjustment. Ensuring that the points close fully. You could also file down the cam follower a bit as long as its flat. I might give it a shot myself.
Mh i remember a ld vid where you put a new set of points (drad spe) on and old ironhead, and you discovered a big diference on the cam slot. Mayby this new system will work better on the evo's than the original ironhead stuff and give you a better orintation for the timing? Just thinking... BTW i am on the way to convert my 06 sportster to a "n electrnic" state with a "chopper like" simplified electric loom and point ignition, i am still assembling parts but i already have my point plate and the new coil. This video was a bitter news for my project, but i can't go back.
Most enjoyable carb rebuild Ive ever watched 🤣.. regardless of outcome.. hey, it runs and thats always a bonus.. Said it before, I miss messing with all the earlier stuff.. have enough problems with efi 🤣. Cheers
I like both. If a bike comes with points and runs good, I leave it. If the points are shit and parts are hard to get, electronic is great too. My main issue with them is most of them are made in china and can just be shit, or become shitty within 1000 miles or so. However, that was my experience with dyna's on small block moto guzzi's. Their coils sure are nice.
Good vid. I don't even run points in my Shovelhead. Electronic ignition was invented for a reason. Works every time and it's hotter consistent spark. Set and forget. Good luck with that Sportster. It's coming along fine.
I remember guys converting to points on cone shovels and evos the only thing I remember was having to change the coil the electronic coil would smoke the points they would last for a short time man I am reaching in the memory bank 35 40 years
Cv carbs and electronic ignition run with a V.O.E.S. Switch points don't ,If you were to run points and a S&S Super E and eliminate the V.O.E.S.Switch you're good to go ,This is from Zipper's >> The Vacuum Operated Electric Switch (V.O.E.S.) was standard equipment on all Evolution® engines and works in conjunction with most all late model electronic ignitions, both factory and aftermarket. It senses high and low manifold vacuum and signals the ignition to change its advance slope. Under high load, the switch signals the ignition module to electronically retard ignition timing to reduce the possibility of detonation. In low-load conditions such as cruising at light throttle, the ignition stays in the advanced mode for increased fuel economy and lower operating temperature. All controlled by the magical V.O.E.S. switch!
If and when I ever have troubles with the solenoid on my XL, I think I will put one of the manual push button ends on the solenoid, as well as fixing whatever else is gone bad for a just in case. But I would guess that The Missus would not want to reach down and push on the end of the solenoid every time she wants to crank it if she decides to ride the Redemption Bike. I feel your pain on dialing in an ignition problem at the same time as a carb rebuild, since they can both cause similar troubles. I have a 2006 which has a CV carb but the newer style ignition with a crank position sensor, and my sensor would fail only when the engine was hot. When it cooled off it would idle great. I tried 3 different pilot jets and screwed the pilot screw in and out for weeks until I saw a video where a guy showed the same problem as it was happening. It warmed up, ran like crap, then he used a water hose on the case next to the crank sensor and as it cooled off, it ran like a top. It didn't show a trouble code on the check engine light until after I had seen that video, after burning my knuckles off taking the bowl on and off that carb a hundred times. A new $60 crank sensor and it idled great, hot or cold. I sure wish they had left the carbed rubber mount bikes with the older ignitions. There's not a thing behind the points cover on the 04 and up bikes at all. They just left the cover there to look cool, I guess. Sorry for the long story, but maybe it will help somebody else with a 04 to 06 Sportster. Take care, Corey and Mrs Kim
Cory, You don't have any leaking issues when you put those brass 45-degree fittings in your aluminum-bodied carbs?I think that by now you can reassemble a carburetor blindfolded. Peace
I usually enjoy your videos however this time I have to disagree with your conclusions. I’ve been riding on points in my evo for 30yrs now and likely only changed them out 5 times and not because they were worn just for maintenance. Only 1 condenser failure. Bike has always ran great. Perhaps it’s the quality of your replacement parts that is the issue. No disrespect, just my two cents worth. 👍
EVO click of death, I have 2 starters that both do it intermittently even after rebuilding the solenoids and verifying no wiring issues. So I just bought one of those billet covers that allow you to manually engage the solenoid with a button so I don't get stuck somewhere click clicking waiting for it to decide to start. If you get it figured out with a permanent solution I'd love to see a video on it.
A common mistake when running electronic ignition is to use copper core spark plug wires. While this *can* be done with Dyna S ignitions, it can take out the ignition. Use suppression core wires.
There is no change on the slot on the end of the camshafts between early/late Shovels or Evos. There was a change in the late 1970's, probably 1978-1/2, on the Timing Marks on the Crank Wheels. The Early Shovels had a Large Dot for TDC and a Line for BTDC; the later ones have a Heavy Vertical Line for TDC and Dots for BTDC. The electronic rotors, which index on the slot in the camshaft are different and most aftermarket electronic ignitions require a Gold colored rotor, O.E.M. 32402-83. I have a 1984 FXEF that had O.E.M. Electronic Ignition, then Points, then Ultima, now back to Points all with the factory camshaft and same Timing Mark (Heavy Vertical Line on the Crank Wheel).
The real problem is Chinese reverse engineered parts that are not in spec. Find used O.E.M. Harley breaker plates and Point rotor cams and use Blue Streak Points and Condensers. Also just change the points themselves, and disassemble the Advance weights to see if the holes are egged out or the pins are worn. You can replace the individual pieces as well. Also re-lube the Advance assemblies whether new or reuseable old. Lubri-plate is the recommended lube or some folks use white lithium grease. I have been messing with Point ignitions for 60 years!@@SaddleTrampTV
I owned a 95 evo sportster 883...... Rode it for 27 yrs....... The only electrical problem I had was the gas cock..... Diaphram leaked after 14 yrs..... This caused vacume in body of valve to occasionally work and not work..... This opened and closed vacume switch and caused one coil to fire and not fire which caused rough running of engine.....I changed it out..... Still running perfect to this day.....
I just bought a bran new Mukuni Carb and installled it on my Dyna. That mfer is the size of a beer can lol. I retired the CV carbs on both my bikes! Made all the diff in the world. Gas miieage sucks now but a shit ton quicker!! New cams helped as well! I never dreamed I would pay a grand for a carb in my life but hey ya only live once! It was worth every penny IMO!
Just a word to the wise a mukuni slide style carb can and will hang up wide open on a day with high humidity \ its a real rush when it happens as long as you have room down the street \shut the key off, wiggling the cable at 100 plus WILL NOT FREE IT
My 84 had electronic ignition and it left me stranded. $500 to replace the electronic module in 1990. $50 to convert it to points. So, I bought the Blue Steak brand conversion . I have never regreted that decision. The electronic module on my 99 Softail died also. A Blue Streak points conversion is in that one also. They run fine.
Yeah I was putting a bunch of parts together to sell some CV carburetors on eBay and sure enough I had that little bump to.. maybe those were the early ones I'm not sure I just started watching your video but when you pointed to that that clicked in my mind so fast. That happened a couple weeks ago when I was building a couple carburetors
Most folk also forget that your spark plug gap will need to be adjusted if you run points on an Evo - to about 0.028" from memory and to make sure that the points gap is within 0.002" on each lobe of the point cam. Love your honesty man 👍
After remove and clean the cv carb put all back and she starts and warm up good, ride for couple of miles then stop for few hours, after that starts again but idles bad and rides realy rough
i have a 2000 I in 1 sickel works great but i don t think there will be a warning when its tired in my points sickels they aways let me know when when need a little att. kicking over condensors not as good as once was last few years ago i add 2 nd condensor at the coil works for me HAPPY TRAILS
