I wish I knew about this before - woodworking 

Glad it was helpful!

Chemists and engineers hate him! They've been using that rule for centuries! This guy just went ahead and applied it to a router. lol

the right hand rule also tells you the direction electric fields and magnetic fields propagate in relationship to the direction of current

@@brewtalityk Yup. And can also be applied in organic chemistry and physical chemistry on similar principles.

Big facts

I still have days when I forget left from right

The clamping pressure will dissipate over distance as the "cone" widens, so it will not be as effective on the far side of the board. It also wouldn't be even across the cone - it will be strongest in line with the clamp and drop off the further sideways you go. So the rule is an approximation and shouldn't be relied upon as gospel. Other factors such as the straightness of the board edges will also affect how much clamping force and how many clamps you need.

The pressure cone doesn't extend from one end up to the other because it is actually a pressure "diamond" (made from the intersection of 2 cones, one from each end of the clamp, facing each other). Since parts of the closest seam fall outside of these pressure diamonds, the joint lacks pressure. This is actually true for the first board on each side of the clamping setup, not only on one side as it might have been understood from the video.

@@manuelponce-julien691 Thank you for that. I knew something was off with that theory, but it's been a long time since physics classes.

Yeah what Ian said - at the end of the day this is an oversimplification of a bunch of factors. I didn't even touch on the density of woods species and the effect that can have. The moral of the story - narrow boards need more clamps to get consistent pressure.

Despite the replies above, I agree that Yoel is correct. I was intending to voice a similar observation, until I saw his comment.

Yup! I’ve literally been debating setup blocks for two weeks while staring at an expansive collection of drill bits.

I had this unreasonable fear that drill bits were somehow less accurate that setup blocks.

but put the drill bit at 90 degrees from the blade. not sure why he put it parallel with the gap.

Mike your bit first... not all bits are accurate.

I was blessed with a nice set of Mitutoyo gage blocks back in high school that someone just gave me, that I had no use for at all until I started woodworking. I'm glad I saved them!

But, but, but, a clamp has another end too. And that applies pressure on the other side of your piece. I mean, nothing is moving, there must be an equal counter force. And the triangles of force coming from that other side will definitely cover the seam on this side, won't they? I'm so confused.

@@nelus7276 True…sort of. The clamping force is really where the fan out from both sides intercept. For that reason, a spacer board or extra clamps are needed.

Eric, exactly how I usually handle this! Spot on.

@@nelus7276 I would agree with you on that. I thought that myself when he was explaining this.

@@nelus7276no, because you need force from both sides. That very first triangle has no force from the side your clamps are on. Yes there is force from the OPPOSITE side, but no force from the side you’re on. Think of it like this, put your hands together and push in towards each hand. Then move one hand and push again. That’s what those spaces between those triangles is like, one hand pushing against nothing.

Heh, I'm 60 seconds into the video and I paused to see if anyone else thought that the clamping force should be coming from both sides, so the full edge would still be under force. I don't see any, so now I'll keep watching to see if he covers it.

Thats a fantastic tip - never thought of that

Yep I do the same given limited number of clamps I have!

If you use slightly bowed boards, it will help even out the pressure. I do this when gluing things where I can't get any clamps in the middle.

@@Lincolnstww i gained a lot more respect for you when you told the people crying about you using imperial and not metric to kick rocks

Just remember to wax the aid boards you don't want to get glued up in there.

Thanks!

thank you! and no plugs at costco - just a bad joke about buying bulk

Great tip RE:, I use emery boards when i need to knock down wood fuzz, or clean up glue, while being careful not to take away any measurable amount of wood. I Love them, for between the "fingers" on box joints, dovetails and splines. While you are in the nail polish aisle; grab one of the 3 in 1 or 4 in 1 files (hell, grab a half dozen if you are in the dollar store) They have sides with super fine grit and a burnishing side. They are amazing for pore filling and CA glue finishing small parts and lathe turned pieces. I also use the burnishing side on router profiles, edges & beads on boxes & frames; so, i have some lines more polished than others for more light reflection and controlled highlights. These tips, in the comments, are all great! Thanks everybody for sharing ~ 🛠Lisa♿

For a miter saw, I assume. Because that is exactly what I do with my mower saw. I find on my more saw that if I don't apply any pressure against the blade I still get a tiny bit of material cut off. That may be the result of a cheapish miter saw.

@@jimweisgram9185 yup, I wrote that in a huge hurry from the sound of it lol. Definitely a mitre saw