Yep, I break things, but I was surprised by what broke - NEver managed to break one on any of my PR racing Buggies.... even through 2 years fo stoopid crashes
This is the most common breakage that people are reporting from what I can see. And it makes total sense, since the swing arms are longer that means longer levers to apply force when it strikes something. Making the arms longer without beefing up the parts those arms are attached to was always going to a recipe for things getting broken.
I have a theory on this. Please note that most people that are breaking these C Blocks are doing so on the left hand side. Look at your D-Block. Notice that it is not square with the rear of the transmission case. Now look at the holes in the lower transmission casing that you mount the D block through, that go up to your aluminum ball stud mount. Notice that that one on the right side of the car, is about .3mm further away from the rear of the gear box (2.3mm on the right versus 2.0mm on the left). This skews the D Block, pulling back the left hand side of the D Block, if you measure the back of the C Block to the back of the D Block, the left hand side is about .5mm+ wider than the right side. This gives the the required slop value that allows for the hinge pin to pull back and sit proud in the C Block pill, so that not only is the only support on the hinge pin the thin machined outer lip of the C Block where the pill recesses into it, but it's also where the relief cut is to help remove the pill with a hex driver. It's a pert storm of weak spots. So one good thump, and it wants to rip the hing pin right out the side. Now you can press down on the high side of the D Block, and even it out, and make it level as you screw it down. But it will want to work it's way back out eventually from vibration. So it's less than ideal. There are companies making reinforced C blocks now. But the real issue isn't the C Block, it's the misaligned hole in the transmission D Block that is a manufacturing error that is setting the stage for the skewed D Block and the poor C Block design to fail with the hinge pin placement.
yeah I have read people post up the same theory as you have here. and there were some reports of the D block needing some extra pressure and care to get on straight before I started building this one. most of the reports I saw of this were mentioning extra slop on one side over the other. Mine didn't seem to have the .3 difference between sides, and built up quite nicely, I took a bit of extra care on the rear arms because of these reports and had equal gaps both sides. one of the benefits of playing with full size cars, the feeler gauges for spark plugs also helped me check this spacing each side. So I am confident it went together all parallel.......... but then like you said, a bit of vibration and maybe working loose, who knows what happened to the B block thos couple of laps on track before the "incident" ( I checked the back end between runs) I'm not a huge fan of that kinda "floating" D block anyway, when I get the full build vid up (depending on how much I speed it up) you may hear me complaining about that, Im used to the blocks being bolted to the chassis. Like you said.... quite a few reinforced C blocks flooding onto the market at the moment, the "flip Fix" seems to be holding up for now tho, and I may have just sunk monies into another kit to build this month so I have to hold back a little on hop ups for a bit. hopefully the alloy bell cranks I ordered a month ago will be here soon tho.
Funny you broke it exactly where the design flaw is. The rear chassis is .5 mm off and the hinge pins have play in them. After enough complaints, AE will need to address the issue. Good thing I'm a Losi guy.
The "Flip fix" help up last couple of weekends, even with my stylistic crashing, so hopefully that is a path forward for now. there are also some "reinforced" C Blocks on the market from 3rd parties on the market now... but Im not gonna get one just yet - just bought/pre-ordered another kit for the next build vid so funds a little tight this month lol
Hey there, good vid 👍 Any chance you can do a vid walk thru on your pr ? And what set up/ mods ? I’m running a v4 box set up and would love to see what others have done Cheers
Thanks :) Yeah I really should do a vid on my V4. PR really dont get the love they deserve. good solid cars taht only make a few changes between generations so it doesnt feel like a rip off every time a new model comes out, usually a few upgrade parts get you to the new spec. In the meantime before I get a video made. Mine benefitted from the spares box I have from buying second hand PRs the last year or so, so has alloy bell cranks, and a selection of from caster blocks to choose from. other upgrade parts include the V4 alloy front uprights, the alloy rear hub backet thingies, you know the bits that bolt on to the plastic hub and hold the ball for the upper ball end, and the alloy upper inner ball mount. My set up is on So Dialled, and I have tried to share it, but my mate is telling me he cannot access it, so I will have another crack at getting that sorted ready for the vid too. do you run 4wd too? looks like PR are testing a oneway centre slipper assembly for that atm so we may be seeing one realeased soon, or maybe a new 4wd later in the year with it fitted, I'll be interested to try that.
Hi Chris :) I dont think Associated will admit anything openly, I think they will design in something better for hte 7.1, and maybe later batches of C Block before that release, but I doubt they will make a song and dance about it.... from the rumours I have been hearing they new about it prior to full release... but we are talking rumours here.
meh, all my other buggies dont have them, but they can be a bit of a pain to get the pill out that is under the spur..... but I would prefer the slot on the front, or not there at all and have to fiddle more, rather than the breaking of a C Block, but looks like the aftermarket has already swung into action to give us that option
