Should probably have put a filter in the steering system when you replaced the pump. My old boss at Napa Auto Parts told me the same thing when I replaced the pump on my old 04 Grand Prix GTP. Im glad I did put a filter in because it caught a lot of crap from the old lines.
Those crow foot wrench "sockets" are awesome. I bought a Craftsman set nearly 40 years ago to fix my Maverick's power steering pump- They come in handy at the weirdest times, where nothing else will fit in the space.
Again, nice video. I had a simular problem with my 1980 Z-28. Had to replace the P/S pump. So I did everything new, including the pulley. I did all the steps you did and got a simular result. Steering seemed perfect. Took it for a ride and when I got off the highway, the steering was tight. Then cleared up. I thought the same thing. air in the system. It was late so I just parked it. Came back a week later and it was justy like new. Maybe its a GM thing ! Once the weather clears up, I'll take it for a ride again, see what I got! Keep up the great videos.
I've been following your videos and the same Dang Problems you've been having with steering. I've gotten 10 gear boxes ending with a custom red head, three pumps, and now this pump going out again after a few months. Supposedly, new parts aren't "new" but just rebuilt better or better warranty. I found easy way to remove pump all you do is remove top fan cauling, belt, measure and remove pump pulley, bolts etc, careful with radiator is all. But still haven't learned that bleeding procedure which ill have to do this time around. My suggestion have the original pump repaired at a place that specializes in that.
I would check the pulley. If it's not tight on the shaft, then it can slip and cause the momentary stiffness in the wheel. If it gets worse than you will have to replace the pump again. The old pully will wipe out the shaft of the new pump.
Tire expert here - those 265 70 16’s darn sure aren’t any “ contributors to the problem “ of course if you had a 37x13.50R20 on there your power steering pump could be some what stressed but that wheel tire combo you have on there definitely isn’t stressing the pump
It doesn't seem to matter which manufacturer car or truck brand but I have always thought and feel that the factory pumps are under powered and get worse in a quick turn either really fast or really slow and with rpm dip.A thought getting a smaller pulley for the power steering pump or an improved pump.Tring to mess with pump the steering box pressures is a very difficult road your on really that appears an easy fix is capable.I do have another suggestion whenever you feel like it bleed the system by turning the wheel back n forth from time to time but quickly maybe also to make sure there isn't a good seal on the power steering pump reservoir because I have seen caps that breath I am not aware of a cap that someone can buy that breathes but that is another idea. I turn the wheel from time to time.36 to 38 psi the ride will still feel comfortable and easier to steer better braking or under inflated to 18 to 25 psi if your wrists are having a hard time.I have turned the wheel once and it poped the cap and had to get a new one. So this is highly likely why the hoses leak eventually because the air has nowhere to go, just thinking I love to brainstorm like the air becomes a whole apart of the system.Good job wondering can you use two of thoes coolers a temp check see what the reduction is and can you do better with a better cooler does it make a difference.I am super intrigued with power steering coolers and their function.
You probably did a good thing by getting that upgraded line. The brass color on the metal ends is a cadmium coating, which is great for corrosion resistance. A better choice if you're planning on staying with your Suburban for longer. Nice work Jimmy!! 💪 🔥
This part rusts no matter where you live because it is just made of steel, not aluminum. I've got a new GM part for my Tahoe to install when the weather is warmer. I bought some Eastwood Radiator Black paint to help protect my new one and isn't supposed to affect its performance. As for the goobers inside, that is interesting. Good luck!
Hi.. I'm following most of your video.. About ur this power steering upgrade , I suggest before you process it is better have a look on Hayden brand products , go for double 4 rows It's much better for more cooling specially under havy load in hot summer.. All the Best dear
You could have a steering column link seizing up when the steering stays still for long periods (fells stiff) but loosens up after a few full turn. Usually it’s the one in the engine bay close to the steering box/rack. One other tell is that the steering doesn’t come back straight fully on it’s own after a sharp turn.
After replacing all those parts and knowing you said you replaced a pump did you clean out the pump after seeing all those black particles in the fluid? Did you flush out the pump before you put all the new parts on it? Maybe there’s some junk in the pump, keeping it clogged given it to hesitation as the fluid flows through possibly?
Those pumps are notorious. I don't know if that's common knowledge. Old Chevy trucks and suburbans is all I drive. Seems like everyone of them I've had the power steering fades as they get warm.
My 4x4 2006 GMC Yukon has done this since new. Took it back a few times and got the famous "could not duplicate. If customer returns he should take a ride with shop foreman" My truck has 157K miles and every thing is original on it. I have flushed the power steering a few times and added a little lubegard power steering additive. Mine also has the hydroboost.
@@NWGarage lol WTF am I saying? Is that it has done this since new. He may be experiencing normal characteristics of the power steering system. Why don't you stop being a smart ass and explain your theroy smh.......
Not sure if this is at all helpful, in my 98 Sierra i had a similar prob and couldn't figure it out also, turns out there was a crack in the steering box, (pitman shaft housing) was unable to see it until used a setup to prevent steering and when cranking the wheel under load it would hit a point where i could see the crack appear aprox 1/8" wide, when the load was removed the crack was no longer visible
Driving old trucks..... If in good condition is great but when some get 20 + years old. The small things sucks. I need a three car but I drive my dad's old 92 Chevy S10 as my daily and I finally had to get my brakes and rear drums fixed. Be 30 year old. Stuff gets a tade off . Soft brakes are bad .....
