@@loichervier7206 ça fait chaud au cœur de les voir gagner après le décès de Luce l'année dernière, elle qui avait un énorme potentiel ! Allez la France et bravo Oriane et Mejdi 💪😁🥈🥈
Exactly my thoughts! Both french kid-crushers are true talents! The wimen from the us also been realy great! Realy looking forward for future comps. Maybe Janja will finally get some competition!
@@lechatvenere je ne connaissais Lucie autrement qu'en tant que fan d'escalade et pourtant ca me dechire le coeur a chaque fois que je pense a elle: puisse-t-elle vivre encore longtemps dans le coeur et les performances de ses magnifiques camarades.
Loved the display of sportsmanship among the women, Oriane especially being so genuinely joyful for Natalia just moments after losing first place to her showed incredible generosity of spirit! I look forward to great things for years to come from her!
The two french climbers were amazing. Teenagers climbing like veterans. The US girls were very impressive too. And Ondra, well, he is Adam Ondra, congratz to him for another win!
Oriane Bertone is a "natural", like Natalie Grossmann; Brooke Raboutou is a strenght, like Miho Nonaka. I am looking for the Games in Paris 24, with Janja I hope and maybe some new names; but Oriane might be ready for Silver, even Gold (she will be barely 19 in 24). She did well in French finals this year (2nd), she will be a very great climber (she already is); she is from The Reunion (west of Madagascar), a very rocky island.
@@henrychu5918 It is so wrong. They have to update the rules after this. It's a kind of thing someone noticed is not against the rules so they abuse it. No respect to that at all.
@@juhanikuronen6944 An athlete has every right to use everything they can to their advantage in a competition. The fault lies with the IFSC for allowing it in the rules, not the athletes. A similar thing happened at a previous world cup where Akiyo Naguchi used a hold on the men's climb next to her since the route setters forgot to put black tape to separate the climbs and no one said what she did was disrespectful.
@@simonlandau8337 You are not wrong there. Just like people have right to evade taxes if they find a loop hole. But it does not make it right. If you want to be a tax evader so be it but most people have sense of moral.
@@juhanikuronen6944 Bouldering is mainly problem solving, and if u find a way that wasn't intended, that's on the routsetters and the rule book not u. It's literally a competition, if you can find a way to do better, then you do, also its not particularly easy to use boltholes either lmao
@@VDB420 if you go in the comment section, I don't know what you are looking for if it's not this kind of message 🧐 Look the video first, then go in the comment section...
Brooke Raboutou is just a joy to watch. She always does surprising things. It's amazing how often she gets away with doing something no one ever intended or thought of to top.
Adam Ondras constant delivery is just astounding. He just dominates in every field, be it lead, boulder and climbing highest difficulty routes on rock. He makes me want to work harder on my climbing =D. Hope to see some fierce competition for him in the next years.
Really great commentators. It makes a world of a difference watching climbing with good commentators that analyze the climbs and the techniques well, compared to those that only talk standings and backgrounds. Great work!
Wonderful comps females and males. Great openings, great fights, great young climbers. Too bad Mejdi missed the flash on the first boulder, he could have won. Perfect to watch, thanx.
Can't wait to see Pete and Tom do a video on the foot jam boulder... Expecting Jakob to get some grief after his comments last week 🙈 nonaka miho was the only woman to do a fist jam in the qualifications I'm sure that will get a shout out 🤣
you mean W1 in the semi final right? she wasn't the only one, i can't remember who it was but another one also did the fist jam briefly to get a in better position and then switched to grabbing it as a sidepull
Yes, while I do like the odd dynamic problem. It was refreshing to see W3 - a properly cryptic, hard slab climb that really kept me on the edge of my seat.
Never done any climbing myself, but this comp did seem more acrobatic than most I've seen. (Assumed you were being sarcastic.) Wonder who will set in the Olympics... It was still exciting though.
Y’all are seeing the future of comp climbing with mejdi and are saying nothing about it ?! Props to him, can’t wait to see him perform throughout the year. Keep it up dude, you’re insane !!
You're seeing the future of comp climbing with Oriane and are saying nothing about it? Also Oriane has FAed V15 at age 15....so prob the future of climbing in general
@@Eddysamson1 they're both incredible, and the craziest thing is they're as good in lead climbing, Mejdi was in final in Briancon WC last year and redpointed a 9a outdoor this winter
@@Eddysamson1 We just have to wait and see. Ashima was the first female and youngest ever at the time to do 8C and she didn't continue her trajectory to the very top of climbing (albeit still ofc plenty strong), although Oriane definitely seems to be the better comp climber regardless. So either way they are promising yes but it isn't always the case that they keep the same trajectory like Ondra.
@@crescentfuzeyou're right the difference between Ashima and oriane is that oriane so far crushed any discipline she tried, outdoor, indoor comp, lead and bouldering
Entertaining! For a non-climber, I thought the commentators did a great job. Very good chemistry. I think the production of the broadcast, however, has room for opportunities.
I can't remember the last time there wasn't more than one Japanese climber in at least the male or female finals. I'm also excited to see Brooke in the finals.
The IFSC runs on a limited budget and the film coverage of any comp is the responsibility of the local organisers. In the majority of comps Matt Groom (a Brit climber who lives in France) is the commentator along with invited guest climbers Matt asks from the comp. He also keeps an eye on the live stream comments. For the US comps its clear that the local Salt Lake organisers have control.
Yes, Matt Groom does great job as a commentator, but he shouldn't be responsible for moderating comments. If the local organiser cannot control it (and clean comment section even couple days after stream...) then they should turn off live chat in total. This situation is riddiculous. And with all the respect but what you wrote is no excuse. If they can get volunteer (?) brushers, they can get volunteer moderators. Hell, you can even set up an automatic moderation by key words, and as we know trolls don't have a vast vocabulary.
Mejdi could have even won his first final against Adam Ondra if he would have managed to stay calm on the top part oft the first boulder!! Amazing climbing by him! Congrats
Lmao Jakob yelling "Thanks for the help" to the crowd after topping M3...wonder if we will see crowd cheering when they do the correct beta rules in the future
@@moonti6820 I'm pretty sure he just meant to say "When they do the intended beta / the method that was intended by the route setters and which worked for the other competitors"
LOL it’s a little confusing to read but I think they mean "rules on “the crowd cheering when they do the correct beta, i.e. beta that was successful for a previous climber""
Awesome to watch, so happy for the two French climbers. Gonna add to what some others said and hoping that this is the place to leave it: moderation for the chat would be awesome. It was sad to see people be racist and sexist. (I know you can just block and move on, it still sucks!)
Wow. That was crazy. I'm also wondering if in the future they do a random drawing of who goes first for each route because it does seem to affect things quite a bit sometimes if you are last as compared to first. That one bouldering problem had peoples shoe skids all over and that might have made it extra slippery. Just my thoughts.
It would be great if the camera angle could show also where they are climbing. Its really hard visualize the moves if you cant see what they should do/where to go and at least to me thats a big part of following the comp! Instruct the cameramen and you'll do as a great favour!!!
I know using bolt holes are fine but t-nut holes?? How is that legal. No hate but the rules state that t-nut holes is an artificial aid? Idk just seems kinda unfair to me, how is that allowed lol
I think it's super cool that I was able to climb on those same walls at the same place a few years after these legends. To me, it's quite an accomplishment. Of course, I was just competing for a youth nationals but still...
Let me first state that I think all climbers in the comp are amazing. I don't hate Brooke Raboutou, but rules in comp are set for a reason. I personally think stepping on the screw holes on the wall is a foul and here's why: According the IFSC rules 2021 v1.7.6: (Glossary - Interpretation - 2) "Artificial Aid means *Controlling* or *Using* any of the following: a) any “T-Nut” placements provided for the fixing of artificial holds;" (Page. 3) " *Control* means, for the purposes of judging and scoring, that a competitor has made use of some object/structure to: a) *achieve or change a stable body position* ; or b) successfully brake any dynamic movement," (Page. 4) " *Use* means, for the purposes of judging and scoring, that a competitor has made use of some object/structure to effect both *a progressive movement of their centre of mass or hips* ; and a movement of either or both hands toward: a) the next sequential handhold along the line of progression; or b) any other handhold further along the line of progression which has been successfully Controlled by another competitor from the same handhold; " (Page. 9) From the definition of "control" & "use", I am sure Brooke Raboutou has controlled/use the T-nut placement on the wall. It doesn't matter whether she control/ use with hand or foot, it's the same thing. Things mentioned above is just my opinions base on the rule book set by IFSC, and the final decision should leave to IFSC to decide.
I guess you'd have to determine if her foot is actually being supported by the tnut or if it's just hitting the whole. And it they want to fix it they have to change wording to say bolt holes.
I'm with @Ian Gleaves on this. Plus it would make climbing much more troublesome as you would have to keep worry of all the bolt holes when you are just using the friction of the wall to climb
In practice it would be impossible to enforce this since anytime an athlete smears against the wall and touches a bolt hole they would have to be called off.
@@Rykvp I think the intention is where we should draw the line, if for example a climber purposely search for the bolt holes, look at the holes and step on to it, and use it to change his/her body position, that's intentional. In other case, if you are not focusing it, you were smearing the wall, and happens to touched the bold holes, I think that is fine. I know it may be difficult for the judges, but I think what Brooke did was totally intentional.
They probably don't want you to watch the women, all the ads are at the beginning. I was bit rushing so I fast forwarded through, still saw too many ads. Watching live is safest regarding ads. :)
Firefox with uBlock Origin. Never see anything else than the video itself on youtube. But with the phone, per app, it is disgusting! But there is this app, youtube alternative, same videos, just another "door" to these videos. I just forgot the name ;)
Thanks for uploading but I‘m 20min in and there were at least 8 ads so far, wtf? I understand that you want to make some money with this channel but this is ridiculous
Incredible climbing, really excited for the depth of talent. But some of that camera work was hideous. I don't want a shot of her back and head while she's working a precision fingery move.
this was a class competition also. Great commentary and co-commentary...Best of the year for sure! Any chance they can do international competitions also 😀
Hi IFSC, I'm watching the livestream of the boulder semi-finals right now and there's no live chat or comments. Why are you guys not allowing comments?? It's really helpful to have a live chat, for newbies to ask questions and for people to compare impressions, cheer for the climbers and what not. Just makes it better, more entertaining and you always learn something from the chat. I hope you didn't disable chat and comments because of the two trolls that were posting on this one... We just blocked them and carried on, no problem whatsoever. Anyway, hope someone from IFSC reads this and considers enabling live chat and comments for the next event.
@@overgrownkudzu well, guess what... lots of that in the world. Lots of bad things in life. So, obviously, let's censor it all!! problem solved x) btw, as I said, I participated in that live chat. There was a couple trolls that one can easily block. Ppl were telling other ppl how to if they didn't know how. Seriously, there was 0 problems beyond a couple trolls... "full of racism and sexism" is such an unaccurate statement I can't even begin to describe it. Again, just a couple trolls vs a vast majority of ppl enjoying the climbing and chatting with each other. Anyway, these thin skin times we're living are getting ridiculous.
I think it will be another 5 years or so before mainstream stuff starts to understand internet culture and how beneficial and amazing things like live chat and care for the online community can be. And for the other guy talking about how toxic live chat is, it only takes one or two mods to clean that up, it's not that complicated and would be 100% worth the couple hundred bucks to pay them a fair wage
@@woulg I think the underlaying problem is that we now live in a society of thin skinned individuals who are encouraged to act offended and hurt by mere words. We live in the time of euphemisms. There's an obsession with appearence and pretending that everything is perfect. I don't know, it's just sad and kinda scary that two trolls can disable a whole chat. It's not the trolls to blame, since there are always gonna be some, it's the weakness of the people in charge of the chat...
@@overgrownkudzu haha no surprise that you didn't respond to my points. Still tryina censor the world cos it's "full of racism and sexism", or did you wise up a bit? ;P
Great to see Natalia and Brooke making the podium. The boulders were pretty weak though. Any problem that is one move, or where it is only testing height is just a bad route setting job. #4 was both.
