I just weld the notches back up and grind flat on the gang axle.... good as new. No need for spacers. Also, I know this video is 2 yrs old but I would've snatched up all the $7 blades. They never go bad in storage.
Look like you working on chain gang with that sledgehammer . Part 3 of disk blade replacement you and Brad be dressed up in white and black coveralls with stripes on them after stealing them blades 👏👍👌 I will be waiting
If you are scrapping bearing anyway cut away all but the inner race. Heat inner race with a torch to red red hot. Smack red area with a chisel a few times. Inner race will slide right off. It' not necessary to heat the whole inner race. Just one spot.
I've welded up axles before and ground them down smooth... putting a 'spacer" in there, unless it's a couple centers cut or broken out of OLD disk blades, is asking for trouble-- using an old race like that puts all the pressure on one spot on the blade, with no backup around it, which will probably cause it to crack or break over time, and make it hard to keep the disk gang tight because the curvature of the race doesn't match that of the disk blade and spacers/end gang "washer" saucer either... Welding them ain't ideal, BUT ya do what ya gotta do sometimes... I had a round disk arbor bolt "axle" snap off about 4 inches from the end right at the bearing one time, and rather than replace a 7 foot long axle for several hundred bucks and have to wait on it who knows how long, I simply used the torch to cut both ends down to a point, then put a piece of small angle iron clamped to the long part and set the short end into it to hold everything aligned, and then tack welded it together, removed the angle iron, and turned the disk gang slowly as I welded up the "V" notch between the two ends... chipped, hammered, welded again, repeated several times, and welded it up larger than it was originally, then ground it back down to size with a grinding disk as I turned it... It came out true and rolled straight and I ground it down *just* enough for the disk spacers to fit over the weld, and put it back together... it's held for probably 20 years or so... Later! OL J R :)
Boehm Farm - mine was a 6 part video series. cousin and I worked on it 2 days. those rusted bolts and heavy parts can really wear an old man out..... you'll get there and be glad you did...
When I was about 8 yrs old we had a welding shop in a nearby town close and sell their equipment. Dad bought a hydraulic press run with a foot pedal for 50 dollars. I can't tell you the hundreds of times that press was used. Sure would work on those bearings that are froze on.
@@boehmfarm4276 We got both at Harbor Freight for not much money... the 20 ton press works well and the drill press works good too, no complaints... we've had both probably 10 years... while you're at it, pick up one of their U-joint arbor presses, it's like a huge C-clamp... works like a CHAMP for pressing out/pressing in U-joints when you don't want haul the whole thing into the shop and rig it up in the shop press... Later! OL J R :)
I was wondering if you were pointing the bearing grease zeros toward the rear of the disc, then I saw you guys turn the bearing on the last gang you were working on. To buy those discs through Shoup would be around $30 a piece.
hate doing this alone and i stand the gang up like you do but when the shaft is 96" long things get top heavy real fast. may have to adjust the tongue hitch now to balance the depth of cut and remember to lift the disc on turns.
Yeah I see why you bought them at that price... for $7 and change a blade, compared to $25 a blade, you could replace a set 3X and STILL be money ahead versus the high dollar blades... SO if you get 33% of the service life out of these compared to the expensive ones, you're still money ahead (NOT including your labor/work/parts to replace them like bolts, nuts, time, etc). Even if you break a few and have to make repairs, well, you're still money ahead. If you were doing a LOT of acres, YEAH the IH "Earth Metal" blades are well worth it because they'll probably outlast "cheap" blades by at least 2:1, so says my BIL and he's run them for decades on his northern Indiana farm, and he's never had one break IIRC, which saves a lot of downtime and repairs particularly in rocky ground, BUT it IS a LOT of money *up front* and a much harder pill to swallow LOL:) We had notched blades on the front of our old 14 foot Ford disk and smooth on back, wasn't really a fan... the notched blades may cut *slightly* better in tough conditions, but they also ride up out of the ground faster in hard ground, and they're more prone to cracking and breaking in my experience (we farm on hard "gumbo" clay soils at Needville and sandy loam or loamy sand at Shiner). We started swapping in smooth blades as the notched ones cracked or broke, and they run MUCH smoother, cut better, and still slice up residue quite well, even tough "woody" cotton stalks! They slice through corn/grain sorghum stalks like butter, rather than "chopping" through it like notched disks. When I replaced all the blades, I went with all smooth blades. Works great. Later! OL J R :)
You want a shock price some of the packer wheels for a cultimulcher.... I need a dozen of the old style packer wheels with 4" centers 80-90 dollars eachv
Do you know who made the blades? We have cih blades (made by Ingersol) on a White disc and haven't broke one yet. Less 8 bucks per blade, that's pretty good!
The Case/IH "Earth Metal" blades will have an emblem on them saying "Earth Metal", those things are the Cadillacs of disk blades... they will hold up and won't break or crack even in severe conditions like rocks... BUT they ARE expensive!!! BUT if you have tough conditions and want blades to last twice as long as "cheap" blades so you're not changing out broken or cracked or bent blades all the time or wearing them out so fast, then the Earth Metal blades are the way to go. For the price he paid for those, even if he only gets 1/3 the life out of them, he's still money ahead with the cheap ones, but that ain't figuring labor and supplies to swap a set of blades in either... Like a lot of things, "you get what you pay for" applies to disk blades from my experience... Later! OL J R :)
The vice is in the garage, and I didn't feel like walking up there. This way, the mess of shavings is outside. And I have cut my finger on the grinding wheel in the past, and that was with better holding devices.
Not on our soil. The clay turns into a brick when it dries. I've seen plenty of fields with little pink dots in the spring. And I don't feel like spraying more.
Better carry pipe wrench to the field with you they will loseing up if you get any dirt in between the spacers its all over got to take them apart again.
Your going to have to keep an eye on those disk gangs because they will get loose ! IH uses a flat center on there blades so the spools don't have a concave or convex contour to them so your only getting one spot on each side that is holding the blade to the spool . I put IH blades (flat center) on a JD disk because it had been run loose so long that the concave and convex was gone from the spools except for the ends and I used the curved blade on them. Keep an eye on it cause it will ether work loose or they will brake at the spool. So keep a close eye on them. Bandit
They will to a point but they may get stress cracks around the spools and if they brake that's ware it will be at. You'll have to keep an eye on it for sure and I hope they don't brake. Bandit
Welding disk blades doesn't end well... for one thing, welding 2 inches of steel around a disk blade isn't feasible, and 2) disk blades are high carbon steel-- welding them usually makes them brittle and the weld metal is softer, so they just crack next to the weld... my old man tried welding up disk blades one time that were cracking out around the center and just made a d@mn mess... Once you've gotten the life out of them, it's time to replace them. Later! OL J R :)
