You made a comment early in the video about how much material IH must have gone through back in the day. What always amazes me is reading about the manufacturing effort of the USA during the second world war. When you think about the ships, the planes, tanks, trucks and all of the other items required to keep our military going, it boggles the mind. If I remember correctly, during 1943/44 the USA was producing one B-17 every hour. And that's just one item of thousands. Another item I'm always fascinated by is how every piece of equipment was purely mechanical, no hydraulics, no electrical, just some guy who saw a way to make it work. It wasn't as easy to use as today's equipment, but it worked. And when things broke or wore out, you could fix them. Try that with today's stuff that you have to throw out when it breaks because you can't get parts to repair anything. But enough of my ranting. Great video. I wish I could find a local mechanic with your knowledge and attitude to work on my car.
You’re very close geographically. California Motor Speedway was a couple of miles west in Ontario. You might be thinking of the Auto Club Speedway in Fontana which is built over the site of a Kaiser Steel plant. It was abandoned for years before it was razed and was used in some movies, notably “Robocop” and “Mortal Kombat.” Ore came from the Eagle Mountain mine about 70 miles east of Indio on Kaiser’s own railroad which connected with the Southern Pacific near the Salton Sea.
One the nation's first freeways was the Willow Run Expressway that used by Ford to ship parts from the Ford River Rouge Factory to Willow Run Airport. That Expressway is now part of I-94 heading west out of Detroit.
I am awed by Toby’s ability to manufacture parts and tools. Just marvelous. I hope we get some footage of this artifact in action. Like the ripper on modern dozers I gather it’s job is to open up particularly hard ground for further work,
I have the same plow. The first time I used it behind my 1939 B John Deere I powered out and was not able to trip and move forward to raise the shank. Ended up using a handy man jack to get it out of the ground.
Regarding the amount of raw material IH needed in a day. That owned their own mill, Wisconsin Steel located on the south side of Chicago. They owned their own ore boat, the Harvester too.
20:01 brass button under the threads will not damage the threads under. Oldest trick in the book. The brass will engage the threads, form around them and lock in place. It does make removal a wee bit difficult, but rocking the cap/nut back and forth unsticks it. All my catch screws have one of those under. For what you have there, a 1.2~2mm button should do.
Appropriate use of a knuckle banger. There was a guy who brought one to Albany over 20 years ago. That was the year they were doing dirt work on the street to the housing development. I don't remember any problems with the lift. Doesn't hurt to be prepared. Thank you.
My dad had a subsoiler but it was a John Deere but looks just like that IH one you got we pulled it with all 3 of our tractors at different times an old gp John Deere , 44 massy Harris and then the D2
Then you are both using the wrong stuff. Walter Surface Technologies "Rock 'n Roll" - Ceramic Anti-sieze. It ain't cheep and you will usually only find it in high end welding shops. Ti and Stainless tig Welders use it for heat dams. We started using it on bolts for floating brake hats and monoblock radial mount brake calipers in TransAM... it eventually became the only anti-seize in our shop and race trailer... Then it was in EVERY race trailer. It's good from well below Zero to 2500° F.
I want to come look at all the cool old stuff you have hiding in the grass! I love old farm machinery! They have so many stories to tell. I keep looking for stuff for sale or even give away. I really want my own little display. A few towns over from me is the remains of some kind of CAT. It’s tiny! I wish I could get it and start my own little collection.
It's been a minute since I've seen one of these. I think it was '94ish...and in southwest Kansas. It was owned by a very kind Mennonite family who took excellent care of it.
The subsoilers we use now have much the same shape. They do admix soil zones a bit. We found that if that was a concern with intact zones that a paratill was the way to gently lift and fracture hardpan without admixing. Tremendous vegetation growth after. It was an old landowner/farmer that put us onto it. If he had unlimited money he would have broken the hard pan on all the land he owned. It appears the manufacturer knew that as well back then
Thanks for the straight forward video on the "POWER-LIFT" as it has been called by others. Good luck, stay safe at the show and that goes for Senior as well.
Squatch Thanks for continuing to make great content really enjoy all that you do. One observation/idea: you mentioned in the video a caution about tightening bolts on threads. I could not agree more but I hate when they come lose from not being tight. My grandfather taught me a trick for such a situation. Place a soft material between the set bold and threads on the shaft to allow it to be tightened but not mar the threads. I normally use lead shot because I have it around but brass stock of a similar size or other soft material would also work. Just thought I would share.
I was glad to see how the trip mechanism works, Dad had a plow he pulled with his 10-20 and the wheel on the trip side was smooth and wouldn't grip sometimes. He just put bolts in each hole from the inside of the rim with a nut and let the ends protrude about half an inch, worked well and was never on a hard surface so never had to replace the bolts.
Nice touch on machining the bolts and bending the steel to fit, little things like that and the square bolts/nuts make such a difference in finishing touches.
Thanks for the video Toby! That's a neat piece of machinery to have. The thought process of how the lift/trip mechanism works is really simple but works perfectly. Cheers
Sure will like to see that working. Thanks for the lesson on the trip set up. I’m going to a plow match next weekend with my 1951 TEA20 Ferguson tractor and two sod plow, but there will be trailing plows there too. So I might be able to help out someone if they have trouble with there trip mechanism. Thanks
That was very neat to see how the trip clutch works. We will be making our first trip to Nowthen on Friday. Hope to see you and the equipment. I promise to try not to overstimulate you if I get an opportunity to say hi.
We used antisize on the boom pins on our digger Derricks .that stuff would get on you more than on the pins .it also would dry out. All it did was keep the pins free.
What a lovely original piece of equipment 👌 International must have used the same method of holding the wheels onto the shafts for every size of wheel and piece of equipment as that is exactly the same as on my International ploughs 👌👍
Thanks for the update Toby! My plans are still to come to the show Saturday. Hope to meet you and Connor there and also Kenny again. Never been to a show outa the state of Wisconsin and gonna visit my cousin who’s 20 minutes from the show. You got a great piece of equipment there! Thanks again and can’t wait for the next video!
The previous owner obviously didn't have any hardpan to break up. I figure a couple of days of heavy working would have removed all the axle paint under the axle bushings. Must be a nice break to only need some preventative maintenance rather than a complete overhaul. 🙋♂😊
Great work. That will work nicely behind the D2. I recently built a 2 shank subsoiler to go behind my 35 hp Branson tractor. That would give that D2 a good workout.
Looking forward to see that thing in actual use...from your description it wasn't get clear to me... 😂😉 Great heating and bending job, that wheel looks like it could have grip anywhere now! 👍👍👍
Aww man, Monica and I won't be at Nowthen this year to see your D2 and plow set up. Hard to believe it's already been a year since we got to experience Nowthen. Do you plan to attend Rollag? If so, we hope to see you there!
@@squatch253I remember taking a tour in 1982 when I was in college for auto mechanics. It was mind boggling how much stuff was up in the rafters that came down to the line at just the right time. Still, not as efficient as a modern factory. Better used incorporated into the city.
Did you by chance purchase that at Le sueur swap meet? Maybe you won't even see this comment but I believe my dad and I met you and had a really nice visit with you after purchasing this sub soiler. It caught my eye as we were walking through the Northwoods I guess being I just purchased one like a year earlier
I don’t like anti-seize either, not only does it get all over everything, but after a time it dries out and can be anything other than anti-seize in the end, it’s like glue and dirt in the threads compared to grease.
Very neat job on the cleats. But I have a worry. Not so much formal "Health and Safety" as personal comfort. The ends of those cleats look quite sharp, and protrude a little beyond the wheel. The wheel now looks like quite a nasty thing to rub up against. Might be worth taking a grinder out and just blunting the upper corners of the cleats. (I tried to look at the photo of the original wheel, to see what the originals looked like, but can't see with enough clarity)
It's a late comment, but the cleats only are fitted to the one side? Still can't understand the full functionality of trip wire. Hope to see the plow in action.
Whoever bought this before you hooked it to their Farmall A (big to them) and when they put it in the ground the A sat and just spun its tires so they parked this plow in the trees until you came along...maybe...
does that use any kind of trip device for rocks, if not, that explains why it never got used much after the original owner got thrown off the front of his tractor 😉
In very nice condition. How old do you think the subsoiler is? Ran a 6 tine subsoiler behind a 250HP MF in London clay. When I lifted it to clear the corn stubble from the tines I burnt my fingers on the tip of the tine. Did not expect the tip to get that hot. Surprised there was no lead or brass slug under the bolts to prevent the bolt damaging the thread.
Could you heat treat & blue those U channel cleats by heating them to cherry red & quenching them in used motor oil? That sub soiler deserves to be shedded out of the elements now you put those cleats on.
I know that you like a one off tool and I think you missed an opportunity. A half inch drive adaptor to fit on an angle finder torque wrench might have replaced the crescent wrench.
