My advice. Don't buy cover panels in the "as is" section as they are not always properly labelled. I would say the cover panels and fillers are the hardest part of an ikea kitchen. And I also learned the hard way that different cover panels for different purposes are different thicknesses!!! and white isn't really white - ugh - IKEA!!!
You’re absolutely right about the fillers being the hardest part of the install. Sometimes the learning curve is frustrating...trust me I know. I don’t think I’ve ever been clear of the learning curve.
Question about the side panels....can they be cut down to make a door? If so, what do you recommend to finish the cut side so the bare wood isn't showing? (PS. my kitchen is pretty much the exact same set up the one you did here) Background - we had a 7" gap on each side of our stove and since Ikea doesn't do anything this small and the staff in the kitchen planning dept didn't have any solution other then cover it up with a cover panel (too much wasted space for my liking), we bought Rev-a-shelf filler pullouts that I thought were 5" wide (no idea now why I thought that) but are actually 6" wide. Our initial plan was to mount a drawer front (5" wide) as the doors for these pull outs but, of course, now we realize I was wrong on the size and they won't work. My hubby with his "we'll figure it out later" attitude has already installed them and installation included screwing into them so they can't be returned now. I asked a cabinet maker if they can make a door for them and was told that they can but they won't be able to match the color and sheen of the Ikea ones. Her only other suggestion was to use the bigger drawer front and cut the middle of it out and glue them together. There would be a seam down the middle though so that would look awful.
Definitely into tricky territory but it can all be done. I’ve cut panels into all sorts of things. Here are some options for you. 1. Cut 2 panels to make 1 door. Make it so the seam is in the middle so the factories edges run around the perimeter of your new door. 2. Make your own door out of MDF and get the paint color and sheen matched as best as possible. 3. Simply but a panel down to your door size. Either paint match and paint the 1 edge. You could edge tape it with maple edge tape so the paint looks better. In the end whatever you think is least noticeable. Hope that helps.
Little #6 wood screws work great and their Robertson much better. Thanks for this video I'm installing cabnits for a customer now it's my first time installing these they are definitely a lot of work . Still cheaper but nothing cheap about install cost. They are turning out to be custom cabnits by the time I'm done
Not at all. There are companies that make custom fronts and panels to match the ikea system. Or feel free to use your own material and finish it anyway you like.
For those 30x32 upper side panels, what if you have backsplash that goes all the way up to the bottom of the upper cabinets? How can you have that valence in the bottom when you don't have enough material to scribe to the wall? Is there any other panel that'll give me an extra inch on the width to be able to scribe to the wall and still have enough to be flush to the cabinet doors.
I order them from a fastener store. One who is specific to screws and/or bolts. They are a specialty item. Or get the proper bit for the ikea head (I forget the name) and the ones they supply will work
Do the end panels come deeper incase I have to pack the wall unit out from 5mm so if the wall unit is 250mm deep and I've had to pack the unit out from the wall 5mm then the end panel needs to be 255mm
You can use a dishwasher panel for the sides. They are 26” x 36”. They also make a giant panel that is 36” x 96”. Sorry I don’t know the metric version.
Question: for the bottom cabinets, do you need to install panels between the stove/dishwasher and the cabinets? Or can the cabinets butt up against the stove/dishwasher?
HI Kody, is there a way to centre your sink on the window when the cabinets don't line up? The centre of our windows is 60.5 inches from the corner. With the 2 corner cabinets available the centre of the sink ends up either too far to the left or right. Any solution for that?
The lineal corner cabinet (47” long and 24” deep) won’t work unless you install a 9” wine rack between it and the sink cabinet and then fill the odd sized space. Or use the 38” x 38” lazy Susan corner with a 18” cabinet, then a filler and then the sink cabinet. Either way you need a filler.
Hi Kody, great videos, helped me a lot with installing the kitchen. I have a question though. When cutting cover panels for lower cabinets to size, i see you put the finished side at the bottom. Is this necessary or preference? My cover panels are made of MDF, and i worry about moisture. Are the panels treated in any way? I thought about painting the trimmed edges, but it’s a bit of a hassle. Mark
I try to put the factory edge against the floor to prevent any moisture wicking into the MDF. If you do need to put a cut side down, then yes seal it with primer at least. Silicone afterwards if in high risk water area.
I have an ikea high cabinet 2m tall (80”). Would I be able to hang this flush to the bottom of the cabinet, without touching the floor? the cabinet is sitting on the feet. Not sure if it can suspended screwed into the cabinet because of the weight? Or just use more screws ?
Just in case I don’t see your response to my question. If I was suspending a large cabinet like this. I would obviously use the top rail. But I would also use more of the IKEA L-brackets and customize a way to have 2 more (1 on each side) about 2/3 of the way near the top. I would probably use 2 more near the bottom. Those cabinets can hold a ton of weight so it’s best to add extra security
Hi, what I meant is the cover panel for the high cabinet. I’ve since suspended the cover panel off the ground by screwing it flush to the side of the cabinet. Wasn’t sure if those screws good take the weight of the cover panel. But I just ended up using more acres.
Im in a pickle I have to install a dish drawer dishwasher that is 17 7/8 x 23 13/16, and I was thinking in modifying a 24" regular base cabinet also, can you do a video how to wrap around a counter depth fridge i have a 90" pantry and im planning to put my 24" w x 74 1/2 H counter depth fridge beside it. then is a wall, so I want to put a cabinet in top as you did that wont be flush it will be same depth as the fridge so ill look like built in, help!
For the dishwasher you could modify that by cutting into some drawer fronts or other combination of panel so you have finished edges on the outer perimeter and cut edges where the DW slides into. I think this one relatively simple, just takes some ingenuity. The fridge I would need to see a sketch in order to help with that issue.
Can the filler panels be held with just construction adhesive? I would prefer not to nail through them as I am getting matte black and think nail holes would be really obvious and very difficult to fill. I will be gap filling 2.5" from a high cab. to the wall. on both ends of the run.
Can you use the Ikea system to cover the fridge doors so they blend in with the cabinets. I’m looking for the seamless look and wanted the appliance to be paneled. Thank you
Hi Kody ! Can i use 25x90 cover panel on a side of fridge cabinet? Other side would be attached to 24 in deep high cabinet . Fridge is 33 in deep so it will stick out a bit , but no big deal.
Hi Kody! Thank you for these wonderful videos. I am building an Ikea island with SEKTION base cabs - 15" + 36" + 24" widths (total 75") Ringhult. Would you buy a 36" x 96" cover panel for the back (and cut twice) or would you buy 3 panels 25" by 30" and not cut at all? Do the lines show if I go with the 3 x 25" by 30" route? Thank you!
great info! trying to figure out panel depth dimensions to make diy panels out of birch plywood. how far do the cabinets sit off wall due to the suspension rail +1/4"? what is the actual depth of ikea wall and base cabinets, 15 & 24"? Add 3/4" to flush out with doors? Assuming walls are plumb what is the actual depth dimension for both wall (16" wall and 25" base? thank you for your help!
I liked this video and was quite helpful. I need to build a post cap out of the Erasdum material. Any thoughts. It’s a 4 sided cap separated by a countertop in the middle Of it. Both approx. 40 inches tall. I’m trying to make it look like it continues thru the quartz top. It’s a 6x6 finished look. I thought of 2 box’s with a U and then fill it with a filler after sliding it on. But the finished edges have me concerned on the 90’s.
IKEA sold me 24x30 doors to use as end panels for my island and one wall cab end. It's a little bit wider than than the cabinet. Where do I put the flush end? On the back overhanging the front a little bit to cover the sides of the doors or drawer fronts? Or flush to the front of the cabinet covering the gap at the back?
Does it look better to use a side panel on both sides of the stove and the microwave cabinet above? This is if you are not expanding the size like the video.
Hi Kody, really great work, your videos have helped me out a lot! I have 9ft ceilings in my kitchen and we wanted to put cabinets all the way to the top. I can't find any 9ft panels on Ikea's website, the tallest one I see is 8ft. Any recommendations on how to tackle this problem? Should we just cut 2 panels (1ft and 8ft)?
8’ panel is the longest. One of my more recent island videos shows how well I can do a butt joint. So yes do a 8’ & 1’ but I would probably do a 7’ & 2’. Your call.
Love your videos!. can you advise what you'd do with my island? I have 24" cabinets backed up against 15" cabs. there are no panels that are about that width, meaning I'd need to cut some off- but I dont want to cut any off and see the malamine interior of the panel on one of the ends. Any thoughts?
I would cut 2 panels and have the cut joint meet in the middle somewhere. Factory edges where doors/drawers are. You have to have deadly cuts but I have done it before. It’s that or depending on the finish either paint match and install your own MDF panel OR a piece of veneer plywood stain matched to the rest of the kitchen. This 2nd takes more work obviously.
@@uptokode you’re the man! You’ve given myself and my dad who’s also redoing his kitchen lots of tips and tricks even though this is my 2nd ikea kitchen. If you’re ever wanting to expand into the Edmonton region I’m your man!
