A year later and I'm back again coz this is still the best video demo I have found showing the type of image transfers that I am interested in. To solve the 'patchy' problem, try priming the surface first so it is less absorbent, for example a coat of the same medium or gel you use for the transfer then let it dry. Then do exactly what you did in the video.
I love that RU-vid’s algorithm placed you on my feed. I’m at art school and I’ve been sharing your channel with fellow students and lecturers. Love your channel, thank you !!
That's encouraging and thanks very much for sharing! Please pass on any requests of techniques you want to see more of. I'm mainly focusing on stuff that can be done a home with minimal equipment but I do have presses, access to a kiln, paint a lot etc.
I've done this kind of transfer with an iron. The iron doesn't need to be too hot, I think the wool setting. Keep the iron moving and let the paper cool before peeling back the paper. I've done this in journals but also wood and on vinyl banner sheets.
This is great. Thank you so much. I have found that Golden GAC 100 is great for sealing to prepare the work surface. Also thrift stores are a great place to buy old packs of labels. Lots of CD labels, lol, that can be repurposed for the backings. 😊
hey renee, I've just set about ordering some Golden open paints so I'll add your suggestion to my shopping basket : ) ill also keep an eye out in the charity shops : )
Great to see it works so well with label paper and a laser printer! My laser printer doesn't print well to label sheets, but it works if you let it dry and moisten it after it dries and then gradually rubbiing the sheet with water you spray on it. I use this method all the time now as stenciils for intaglio and relief prints... I'm still trying acetone but I've had no success at all. Apparently that works to transfer laster ink images. Go label paper !
*You can transfer ink jet images if you print to the wax paper/back of label; I did it with wood glue which works with inkjet images. It just smudges easily so you have to be very careful you don't let it move.
You have no idea how long I have been looking for this! Even with the bits you may consider as 'flaws' the overall results are a success! On saying that, it's possible that the irregular peaks n troughs (thick n thin layer) created by brushing the medium on may be the cause of the missing transfer and sticky bits. Maybe a more even/level dispersion of the acrylic medium would solve this, for example using an ink roller/brayer to apply the medium? Just thinking out loud!
I love your channel!! Have been watching daily, so much information. One question: I like this image transfer technique using the backing of a label sheet BUT I don't really want to ruin a bunch of label sheets just to use the backing. Is there another paper (photo paper, wax paper?) that will do the same kind of release method? I am trying to find a way to transfer line drawings to the top of a gelli print. Haven't had much success with the simple lazer transfer and I want a cleaner transfer than collage (but that is my next best option). Going to try your print to tracing and spraying with varnish method next (that was a SUPER tip!). Thanks, again I love, love your channel!!
I've been trying it with various types of glossy/waxed paper. To discover that it works with some of them... and others not so well. Best results? The sheet left behind after you've removed a T-Shirt transfer, but other reverse I've decided, therefore, that from now I'm ONLY going to use glossy paper and I'm no longer going to spend hours shaving off that paper after it's dried.
@@yeatesmakes I think that most A4 label sheets must be waxed paper as they are the only thing that works... which means that baking paper should work as well. Now I'll just have to cut that roll down to size. The last batch of transfers didn't work because I tried glossy photo paper. But get this... if you heat up the glossy paper with a hair dryer or run a hot iron over it after applying the gel medium and sticking it to a surface, you can get the white part of the image to transfer which forms a hard enamel-like layer on the surface! It seems that the black toner is absorbed into the glossy part of the photo paper so it doesn't transfer!! But the glossy layer does after it melts and hardens. This happened for the first time yesterday after trying to apply your method to photo paper and I'm trying to repeat it again. you=brilliant
I've watched a ton of your videos and it's so nice to see someone trying different things, your very artistically talented! Have you ever tried acetone for image transfers? It works pretty good 👍 cheers 😁
@@tyragilb3318 Based on research, not on MY actual tests, I think a waxy paper or non-stick surface will give results as long as it can go thru a printer. You don't want the 'transfer paper' to stick to the new surface. It's fun to experiment! There's loads of videos about making transfers but to be honest, for me this is the best I have come across to date so I say look no further.
This is what I to ensure that there is no wrinkling: I pour the gel medium into an A4 size container, then I dilute it with water if it's a thick medium. Then I dip the paper in water and place it on the top of the sheets. If I transfer it straight away there is no wrinkling.
When the surface is too absorbent, have two layers of gel medium, one to seal the surface and the second after the first is dry to absorb the transfer.
You make it look easy! Interesting experiment, the results look great. #risktaker Hey Mark, the audio was really quiet. Is there a way for you to get closer to the recording equipment somehow? Potentially?? xo xo xo
Love your art and this video. What did you use to prep the vinyl record? Acrylic spray paint? Please keep sharing your work and experiments. YOU ARE AMAZING!
This is awesome! I have tried gel medium transfers just printing on paper and end up with a foggy result. You have to wash off the paper backing and there's a paper residue that often is left. This method is so much better! Can you share what brand of printer you use? I've found the results can vary based on the printer. Thanks so much!
What part of the world are you in? Label backing, so far as I know, is generally only available in packs of labels, but those should be available pretty much anywhere you can purchase or order any other art or office supplies. Most offices also have one or more trashcans, somewhere, where the discarded backing sheets will end up. Also, check the trash at a photocopy shop, or talk to someone you know who uses a laser printer. You can also just buy the labels and paint or print on them before you remove them (if waste is the issue). Use the labels as you would any other collage supplies or stickers. ...Or actually create mailing labels, I suppose, but what artist would do that? Alternatives I've seen others use: Inkjet or laser transparencies, depending on the printer type you have access to. I've tried this, with only moderate success, but some brands are said to work better than others. Sorry, I don't know which; I was selecting randomly from a pile of leftovers. In my experience, the ones that reviewers say work best seem to constantly disappear from the market, or change their recipe and stop working as well. Waxed paper. Never tried it, but it occurs to me that if you can get it to accept a print well enough, you could use either gel medium or heat to accomplish the actual transfer, since ironing the back of the printed surface will just melt the wax and release the image. The print must be inkjet, and the ink will stay wet a long time, so handle with care. Tutorials abound. Freezer paper is very similar to label backing. It's basically butcher paper, with a plastic coating on one side. I have not tried printing on it, and don't think it would withstand the heat of a laser printer. Try that at your own risk, and don't use someone else's laser printer to test! Might be usable with inkjet, same caveats as inkjet on waxed paper. For both waxed paper and freezer paper, you could try inkjet printing using a prepared coating, such as those by DASS. Not exactly widely available, but most large art supply stores (especially, those near colleges or art schools) should have some type of inkjet-compatible medium. I've actually used the DASS transfer film (not medium) to experiment briefly doing alcohol gel transfers. Mixed results, but promising technique. These supplies, however, will be less available than label sheets, and (so far as I know) can only be ordered from DASS. Search on "DASS Art Transfer Film." Randall Plowman, in The Collage Workbook, explains several transfer methods, including one using vellum (the paper, not the animal skin). It may be a solvent-based method, using spray sealer, or some such. (Much as I love graffiti art, I oppose spray paints. They are severely damaging to the environment, especially when use is as widespread as graffiti art is.) Essential oils supposedly work for transferring toner-based photocopies or laser prints, directly from ordinary copier/printer paper. Rougher, grungier results, from what I've seen, but a nice look if that's what you're intending. I've seen demos using eucalyptus oil, but even that demo pointed out that other essential oils work. This only scratches the surface. < obligatory moan> A quick YT search on "transfer images" or "transfer images onto [fill-in-the-substrate]" will yield more videos and other tutes than you likely will have time to watch. Good luck!
Great advice from Xenopticon - just ask at a printers, office etc. I'm sure in this more enlightened age of not wasting things they'd be happy to keep label backing for you
So many ideas! I’ve been working on photo transfer techniques for awhile now but never tried label backing paper. Couple of questions: have you had any problems putting it through the laser printer, and, where do you get it? I don’t go through very many labels.
I collect them up from work, the local printers, you can reuse them too. I get my images printed at the local print shop as they have a fancy printer copier. They haven't complained about printer jamming yet.
That is so excellent video! I have one question. I know, that you hold your transfer 24 hours, if you ever tried to apply the heat and make it much faster. What is the minimum time to make this type of image transfer without using the heat, on your opinion?
Really affordable option that I can use to experiment with and not worry about cost so much. Also have you ever done this as a separation printing? Like with linoleum or wood where you separate each color into a separate block. If u have the registration set up then you could place the tape on a separate sheet for each color? Would that work?
In theroy, yes. If I do colour separation with lino or wood, i always go the colour reduction route, not using separate blocks. What you describe would be closer to three colour stencilling or screen printing techniques. What you describe would definitely work, transferred with gel medium, but registering would be a task!!!!!
Hi Yeates Makes l am new to gelli printing and throughly enjoying your videos and learning heaps. Mind you I am having quite a few disasters as well while trying to transfer my own drawings. My chinagraph pencil was a complete fail and l am yet to get a good biro pen pull. Luv the way you do this and the ink transfer as with one of your other videos. Anyway l have a couple of questions. As one that creates much with fabric and uses Freezer paper, kinda like pallet paper 1/ Would the shiny side of freeze paper work rather than the lazer backing paper? 2/ Have you used fabric for a image transfer other than canvas, and if so what were the results? Thanks for your fabulous educative videos and l look forward to your response and further experimenting o):
Hi Lee, I don't have have any experience with freezer paper - a bit risky putting unknowns through a printer!!! Sometimes tacking the lead edge of the backing paper to a sheet of printer paper helps it feed properly - I'll leave that one with you! Fabric works just fine, not got much experience, but mix with fabric medium if you want it to hold. Depending on the texture of the fabric, the clarity of a fine print might be compromised a bit : ) Sure there are plenty who watch vids on this channel with more experience than me so maybe they will comment and offer insights. Chinagraph - make sure you work quick, don't let paint sit on plate or the transfer paper sit too long either. Thin layer of heavy body acrylic and it should work. With the ballpoint pen, you just have to make sure emboss is deep enough - use a heavier paper or card but make sure it is smooth. : ) Best of luck
AAhhhh, yes, I have done this, then!!!!! It does work just fine!!! It doesn't quite have the same accuracy or refined edge as lino/woodcut, but the rustic look is cool
