Having tried the buttons, new batteries, resyncing the remote, and the spare key fob! etc., ..it's time to enter the EKA (Emergency Key Access) Code to bypass the Alarm/Immobiliser! ...as seen here on my Rover 800 Coupe!
Cheers buddy my nissan d22 has been to the main dealers who are inept towed it back after a week. A few auto electrican's couldn't sort it, I was just about to contact a locksmith as the last resort, you are my hero. thank you so much.
I think I must have missed the part where you told us how to get the correct code for our car and avoid up to the 273 hours and 23 minutes it would take to enter the 6,561possible combinations for a 4 digit code. Of course, that’s figuring 2.5 minutes per code entry and starting attempt and does not factor in the delays due to the 3.2 probable suicide attempts.
Obviously 0000 to 9999 = 10,000 combinations. Entering 6,561 combinations gets you almost 2/3rds of the way there, so please don't give up yet, keep trying!
Thank you so much went 3 different electrical n alarm mechanics n bullshit change my altenator n battery. No alarm key fab still not working. N alfter watching your video n tried it. One time is working alarm n central locking working thank you n to all the other that sharing videos cant believe do it your self saved me loads of money n a return trip to those fools. Some of these mechanic need to watch a few you tube videos they will learn alot.i so happy it hurts 😂😂😂🤣🤣
In the comments you have saved so many nervous breakdowns and bouts of insanity so thanks again from them LOL... My friend , can you tell me if there's anyway to start a car when you've lost the key ie. Delete code in the computer and then the old fashion hot wire . My daughter's key is $750.... Another manufactured money maker.... Any suggestion will do....
Hey man, thanks so much for taking time in making this video.. I really appreciate it! However; I've got a problem with my Astra 2006. Firstly I had a problem with dashboard the lights, fuel, oddometer won't work plus also the central lock... the problem was the key.. I oppened it up and managed to unlock and lock my car... after this my car won't start. It was starting normally before I did that!! If you could help please... also I do have the log books and I'm gonna check for the key code. thanks in advence
+Felipe Drumond Hi I am still new to Vauxhalls so can only make guesses! If several things stop working on a dash at once this is usually down to the wiring/connector at the back of the dash. Sometimes a simple wiggle better still undoe and refit does the job. They can be a bit of a bugger to get out can dashpanels especially the speedo cable so you may want to find a video of that one. Many cars have micro switches aa part of car alarma and central locking systems these are known to fail in my Rover I dont know what's inside an astra door. Sometimes a simple spray or soak in WD 40 can work wonders inside a door especially as it's not always possible to remove bits. Other cars have a seperate central locking pump in the door these can often be replaced by the 2 or 4 wire ones sold in Maplin. I used to pay around a tenner for them which is often cheaper than going to a scrapper for them. Before you do mess with door though disconnect and reconnect car battery and check earth lead between battery and body as either may sort probs to.
Vauxhall are well known for connecter at back of speedo coming loose.the alarm and immbilliser use this so car wont start dont buy a new dash just push yours hard and all will be well
Hi, this video was originally intended for the few Rover 800 owners I thought might need it, with only a few dozen views ever expected, my car being a Rover 800 Coupe from the late nineteen nineties. Back then and until very recently I had pretty much stayed with Rover 800's, so have little to no knowledge of any other cars systems. It turns out that that it does also works out on some other vehicles too, including a couple of MG, some Jags, Land Rovers, Hondas, a couple of Kias, and a few more makes/models, even on a couple of Nissans (although most Nissans of that age used Nissan's own NATS system)(...which I no nowt about). Other makes and models often used there own systems too, or were still using none. I would have been perfectly happy just to know, that making this had helped even just one Rover 800 owner to enter there code, as the instructions to do this in the Rover 800 handbook were a little tricky to understand and as in my case too it was always difficult to do correctly so as an owner you would still be stuck with an immobilised car. To have also helped a few other owners on this/their journey has been a godsend for some, but to get a million+ hits, I truely never expected that! Thanks for comment and watching.
There is some good info here, although, there has got to be a way to get these cars started, Why you ask? Because think about all the RFID signals bouncing around, yes high level powerful signals that can immobilize these cars, Right!!!!! This is a Problem Solution Orientated Program that many, many companies are involved in. RFID chips are even sewn into clothes, implanted. Also something else to think about, you have many Bluetooth, and other types of wireless devices, such as your Smart devices, that emit signals (Send/Receive). Some People claiming to have spent Hundreds of dollars at the Dealership, only to find out in just a short time they are locked out again, and the car will crank-Start, then in a blink immediately stop. Some are even claiming their cars started a few times using a key without a RFID chip? Ehhhhhhh!!!!!What!!!!!!!!. Maybe on the few days their vehicle started without a chipped key they unknowingly had a device with them that was emitting a strong signal, they could have also had some RFID Chip sewn into the cuff in their shirt, could it be? There is prob a easy fix for this. The dealerships are very secretive because they make a lot of money for such easy repairs. Yes normally these types of easy fix, high commission pay out repairs go to the Master Mechanics withing the Repair shops. Even the lower Mechanics are told it is a tough job, and must be repaired by a master mechanic, this way the secret does not get out, Right!!!!
I a Peugeot 46-EW10. once a while the displays engine mobilizer fault, even after this same display, the car engine will start. hope they won't be electrical fault in feature
the funny thing is that I didn't have to go through all the process- is just that I own a car I don't know (I inherited it from my late husband) and had no idea about this security sys.; I always use the mechanical key- last night started raining and I used the remote; there you go- today the car won't start; my legs went numb! I cannot afford to fix this car, really...after I watched your video I just locked/unlocked with the key and problem was fixed!!! now you got me wonder- I have no EKA number (maybe my husband had?!?); if it comes to that I will have to pay the dealer to find it for me or try your method; I will save your channel; do you know OTHER things about P38's ???? (I am doomed to be ripped off by mechanics because I am a woman so at least I would try to identify the problem- if I have one in the future....) In any case, thx a lot!
no i know nothing of the P38's but when I am stuck I always revert to Google and RU-vid for the answers first. but when I can't find the info or it's not very easy to understand, then sometimes I make these videos. They are as much to help me the next time as they are to help everybody else! thanks for watching.
Hi your Hummer will most likely use a transponder key/remote with a chip inside that communicates with a receiver around the ignition switch. Most vehicles after 2005 use transponder chips and I would Guess most GMs did too, these usually require someone with equipment to program them to the car, like the dealer or an autolocksmith although I can't be sure what your vehicle does indeed require. Great vehicles rarely see any these days. Only Hummers I have been in was a Military Humvee in USA (20odd years ago), and a Hummer H1 in the UK (15-20 years ago). The H1 owner took us for a short drive in it, said there were only 6 of the in the UK back then. Got loads of attention. There was an owners club for them back then, not sure if it's still running. Great fun. Enjoy.
I have one question if someone can help me please. If for example the key code is 4528 so i will turn the key to the right and lift these many times. What if the second digit is zero? Or if any of the digits or zero. What do i do then? Thanks for the help
Use 10 for zero. So 4528 would indeed be entered as 4 5 2 8, but if it was 4028 then the code you would enter would be 4 10 2 8 and for 4508, the code you would enter would be 4 5 10 8. Hope this helps, thanks.
It's harder to find them now. All the cheap sites and eBay sellers have either gone or been shut down. So unless you carmake dealer can supply it then a local auto locksmith or car service place might be able to obtain it through the trade. Not sure how much that will cost these days. Last code I bought was for this car some years ago for £2 off an eBay seller. Can't find anyone on Google for cheap codes anymore.
I didn't know the code for the car before hand as it was not in my car's handbook where it should have been, so I purchased it online from mgrovercodes.com for this car before I made the vid, thanks.
@@ifitsgotwheels Thanks for the reply I’m writing from nigeria the guy took out my brain box transponder and immobilizer says he has to go take it to a programmer to figure if my immobilizer is the case problem
Sometimes the key may need resyncing to the immobilizer. I am not sure how this is done on your VW but there are a couple of things worth trying. One is to press lock or unlock buttons several times in a row , try each one separately and try with ignition on and ignition off. Check your vehicle's handbook as often it will have the way the remote should be resynced in there. For our 2012 Polo to synchronise a key. Fold out the flip key. Whilst close to the vehicle press the unlock button on the remote, then within 60 seconds unlock the vehicle using the key bit. After this the remote should work again. It does mention in our Polo manual that the Cover of the drivers door handle may need removing! Sometimes a battery reset for half hour works wonders too but only disconnect your battery if you have radio and other codes you may need. Other than that hit the VW forums before getting in an auto locksmith to sort. If you switch the old ignition back in and it works with that then maybe the ignition forms part or the immobiliser coded parts, this may mean the dealer needs to progam it in. Best of luck.
Your Focus is far too new for this and will most likely have a key or fob with a chip inside it. These usually require a dealer or Autolocksmith to program in.
Hi with Rovers they came on a card in the handbooks. I didn't have mine but found someone selling codes on eBay back then. There were also websites selling them. Nowadays though only the trade can get them from sites like Hickleys. So only the dealers and auto locksmiths registered with them can buy them now. Not sure how Lexus models are secured, but most cars now you have to get the old codes off the dealership, worth asking on any Lexus forums for anyone supplying them as sometimes old workers have access to old lists that's if you car even uses any codes, but again those forum guys are usually the best in the know.
If your car starts it's the right code! If you haven't got any code, and you no longer have the card or handbooks with a code, then you need the car dealers or an auto locksmith to obtain them for you
Normally from dealers or autolocksmiths only now. A few years ago you could get them for a couple of quid from cheap websites and ebay sellers, but they all seem to get shut down or no longer bother with them as less owners need them now. If you know the supplying dealer from number plates or any window stickers, then sometimes they will give out the code for free with i.d and proof of ownership, other dealers normally charge as they used to contact the original dealer to get it from them. Many dealers will no longer have the lists, for some cars members of any owners club or forums managed to obtain the code list, so checking forums is always worth a try. Locksmiths and many of the dealers pay Hickleys website these days as they seem to have the codes, but they will supply the motor trade only, so it still means paying someone!
How do u know what the code is. 98 volvo s70. Locked key in the car and went through the trunk the alarm went off and now car wont start . Because of anti theft . Unhooked the battery only way to shut the alarm off soon as u hook the battery back up it starts again. Thanks for any help
Hi codes are normally supplied with the car handbooks, otherwise it's locksmiths or dealers to get them. I am not sure what codes if any Volvo uses though as the locksmith trade supplier only lists Key Codes and not immobiliser ones. Although it's possible Volvo did use them on the older cars. I doubt any code would turn off an active alarm though. If an alarm is sounding when battery is connected the remote should switch it and immobiliser off. If it does not then only disconnecting the battery for a longer time, normally 30 mins for most makes, will reset the system allowing for the ECU to drain of power. It might be that the remote needs resyncing but again I don't think any resyncing is possible while the alarm is sounding. Hopefully pot luck will overide it all for you soon!
Great video. I have a 1996 Volvo 960 Auto. Do you know where I can find the EKA for this? Is it something to do with the engine number or 7 digit key number? Thanks for any help y0u can provide.
Hi, I am a great fan of Volvos ever since my Dad had one when I was a kid, I am not sure if they use an EKA code or not though. The only website I can find that supplies codes these days is Hickleys and they only seem to list Key Codes for Volvos (www.hickleys.com/diagnostics/codeservice/all_codes.php) so Volvo may have had something different. Unfortunately Hickleys is trade only, so I don't know if they can help as I am not in the motor trade. Check out any Volvo forums to see if they can help at all, otherwise it might need an auto electrictian or dealers help, sorry :(
Normally I look on Hickleys website to see what car they have codes for, but Chrysler are not listed there, so I do not know if your motor uses any codes sorry.
1998 chevy cavalier : do you think that this may be the problem with my cavalier? i dont have the original key .. my regulator is faulty and before it was replaced my car just stopped and now wont start everything else checks out fuel pump pressure spark etc.. but the fuel injector pulse seems to be disabled.. the dash started to go wild ...lighting up all the indicators on the panel or it would just shut down (the dash panel) the symptoms would point to the factory alarm system etc. but as i said i got the car used and dont have the original keys
I am not sure what is causing your problems, but if you have only just got the car recently, then depending on how long the car/battery has been unused for it can sometimes just be the battery that is causing the problems. Make sure the battery is fully charged, if the car still has the problem check the leads are on tight and that all the earth leads appear to have good clean connections. If it still not starting disconnected the car battery for an hour and reconnect it as sometimes just clearing the memories will work. (although you may need to re enter a code into your radio afterwards (so check you have one first!)). If it is the immobiliser causing this and you don't have the fobs/keys for it. You may have to send your cars brains away to get new ones or have the system bypassed both ways can cost a small fortune. If you don't have any codes for your vehicle then if you can contact the original car dealer for the car, they may supply them to you for free if you provide proof of ownership to them (I got some codes from a Vauxhall dealer in the UK a few weeks ago for free, & took them to the local Vauxhall dealer so they could do work on the car, (the local dealer wanted to charge a fee for getting the codes for me.)) A good alternative is to buy a set of the ecu/ccu/other boxes needed with matched/keys off a scrap car, these can often be found on ebay, and is what I will fit in the car shown in the video above, when I can get the one. Best of Luck.
Hi the immobiliser / alarm ECU should be located under the dash / above the pedals. These guys can supply a remote (£150 (april 2020)(might be more for international buyers)); remotekey.co.uk/rover-key-fob-replacment/rover-800-repalcement-key-fobs/ if you can send them the ECU, but check with them first to be sure. If you only want the code, then those are harder to get now as most of the old Rover dealers have gone now and the UK dealers probably would not have any codes for exported cars anyway. Unfortunately, the cheap MG-Rover codes website that used to supply codes for a few pounds has since closed down. It is possible to replace the units in a vehicle but I think you need the Immobiliser/Alarm ECU (above) plus the cars main ECU (from the engine bay) as well as the remotes to do this, but even second hand these may be harder to locate these days although ebay is always worth a try, but as far as I am aware both ECUs are required so ignore any listings that only supply one unit, unless someone can confirm otherwise. As the immobiliser ECU and main ECU are programmed together I do not think you can just remove or doctor the immobiliser ECU to get the car to start, so there is no easy fix. You do need a working remote or key code to start the cars. Please not all of the above is for 95/96 onwards cars, I do not know anything about the earlier cars, thanks.
Will this work on a Mercedes sl320 1996? The immobiliser will not disengage until many many attempts with the fob and key in the engine on and off. But eventually (after 5 minutes or so of trying) it will finally disengage. Looking for alternatives such as your technique. Will it work for a 1996 Merc? Do I find the EKA in the manual literature etc? If not where? Do you have any tips for me? I ll be grateful if you can help at all. Thx.
@@ifitsgotwheels Thanks for your response. I actually have also the same exact colour as your neighbour too!!! I think I have also a solution which may also apply to others: Yesterday, all I did was to clean the key crevices from small bits of dirt and it worked!!!! I opened the doors with the fob and than used the key to start the engine (as per normal for this vehicle). The key did not look or feel dirty at first glance, however, some of its crevices did have a small amount of accumulated dirt/fluff. I cannot guarantee it was not a fluke, but it did work and the immobiliser got disenganged normally, every time (around 8-9 times all together). I have not tried it today as I dont need the car, however, I thought it worth mentioning for others too.
Hi, your 2005 car will be on a newer system than this where keys have to be programmed to the car. Some Chevy Cavs need to be programmed by a dealer and some don't, see if this info helps lost-car-keys-replacement.com/chevy/cavalier/#key%20programming
I have a Landmark Mitsubishi from Jeep. the car keys seem to have 0000 code but start with "3600220-000" so I believe the code is 0000. How do I deactivate the mobilizer?
i have prob...i have brought a swift vxi just 4 months back. the car was running good, 7 days ago i have done the pollution test also, bt after 2 dayz from dat, the engine is not starting. Though sometimes the engine is starting, a defective sound is happening and this is happening for 1 min. But now the engine is not starting, lights and symbols in the dash board is also not showing. plz suggest me.......
i have a 2004 vauxhall corsa c which i had to chance the ignition barrel on which meant introducing another key and transponder, since then ive bought an immobiliser code to try and program said key and it wont let me, do you know if method youve shown will work on my car?
Hi I am not sure. I have a 2014 Astra which it does not work on. I had to send it to the Vauxhall Dealers the other week to get a key programmed to it. They managed to do this, but then realised they had ordered the wrong key cut, and it would not work the ignition, so they had to re-order it, and do it again. It cost £111.18 after getting a discount!
After searching on the internet it seems the supplying dealers keep a copy of the codes for cars that they sell. I managed to find out which Vauxall dealer supplied the car new. I gave them a phone call and they supplied me with the Key code and Immobiliser code. This saved having to pay my local dealer to around £25 to get them. The original dealer will usually like to see a copy of receipt or V5, but as they were so far away, they said send them doc by email and a few minutes later I had the codes. He said they do not have the wheel locking nut codes, but thankfully I had that one in with the locking nut key. My local dealer used the codes I obtained to order a fob with the key blank ready cut for the car. I then took it the car to the dealer once this had arrived. I gave them the key I had so they could put both the old key and new one into the car, which would 'take around 45 minutes'. ...only 45 minutes later, they realised the key they had cut did not fit/turn ignition! So they re-ordered again, this time taking the codes I gave them correctly, and a few days later got one ordered in and then after taking car to them once more, '45 minutes' later, it worked. I think if they had got things right the first time they would have charged me more for it!
Awesome vid n info 👍🏾 Where do u get the 4 digit code from? N what happens if you’ve got no lights on the dash? Have tried jump starting n a new battery n have also checked interior fuses n relay fuse too
Codes are mostly from auto electricians these days or dealership as I can only find Hickleys (trade) website on the web now. Cheap sites and eBay sellers no longer seem to be any I can find. If no immobiliser light working then maybe it's a job for an auto electrician anyway as it could be wiring or an ecu or other part playing up. It's always hard to say, I usually search for similar probs on the car forums if there are any for the same make and model. The method I have shown may not even work on your model, turn the key left and right in your door a few times to see if the horn beeps at all. If ignition lights up and car won,t crank, perhaps it is just the starter motor or starter motor solenoid that is kaput. Unfortunately even I have to just best guess somethings sometimes.
Hi it should be WHERE you or the previous owner(s) PUT IT! The cars that require these sorts of codes are just like those Ford cars that you should never buy without a Red Key! Any car that requires any sort of code should be avoided unless the seller sorts it out first or you only pay for the vehicle accordingly. The codes usually came with the handbooks often on a card with the radio and or key lock codes too. If lost, then usually you will only get them from the dealers or autolocksmiths now as most manufacturers are now only supplying the motor trade. A few years ago they were available on ebay for £2, but all the ebay sellers were shut down, so now you have to pay up, unless you can find the original supplying dealer of the vehicle, these will often supply the code for free with proof of ownership and/or i.d. if they still have their list! Sometimes lists have been sold/passed on to owners clubs or forums, so it's always worth checking with them too when stuck.
Great video but not sure this would help us,got a Vauxhall Meriva 2013 every now and then with out warning the immobilizer kicks in and won't start the car,i have to disconnect the main car battery for a few minutes sometimes up to ten or as low as four or five,reconnect the battery all's good until the next time and there is never any warning as to when it's going to happen,i will also add haven't been able to find anyone willing or who can fix the problem,apart from buying a whole new immobilizer and no guarantee it will fix the problem. 😞😏😞 P.S, Can't find said four number key code in any of our little book lets that came with the car,though i haven't found all of the books as we got about four or five lol,so i'm hoping that when we find all the car books the number will be in one of them,reason we can't find them is we have just moved into a new property and haven't un-boxed everything as of yet.😉 Any help on this matter would be gratefully appreciated,huge thumbs up by the way for said video
Hi, this mostly applies to vehicles from the nineties although some later Land Rovers and Hondas did use this type of immobiliser upto around 2005. (Some cars even used pressing the brake pedal to enter a code!). Almost all other vehicles from this century have immobilisers that use transponder keys or remotes, these will often look like any other key or remote but contain a small chip inside that completes the signal cicuit when said key/remote is held up near the ignition barrel. The barrel has a coil of wire near it that picks up the signal. Almost always there is no easy way to program these into the car without visiting a dealer or locksmith that has the right equipment to do so. We have Vauxhalls now, I am not sure if my 2011 Combo van has an alarm or immobiliser. It has central locking and indicator lights flash, I think the only security that has is put foot on brake whilst starting, as I do have a spare key without buttons that lets me open and start the vehicle too. Our 2014 Astra needed a key programming in by Vauxhall, I got a good deal on it and only (only!) paid £111 to get a new key cut and programmed in for that one. I think yours may be a problem caused by a glitch somewhere though as you are able to use the key/fob again. It could just be a bad earth on the main battery or to the body from the engine. If you have a different key try holding 1 near the ignition barrel and using the other to start it as you may have one that a bit iffy, but your problem does seem to be at the car. Best thing you can do is get someone with an OBDII (OBD2) reader and get them to connect this to your car and see if there are and immobiliser fault codes that pop up as a result as that will often take you straight to the problem. Best of luck, thanks.
@@ifitsgotwheels Ok and thanks for the quick reply,just had a look for one of them OBDII readers and they are cheaper enough to buy,so i'll be ordering one them as it will also be handy to have for future error codes. 😉 Again thanks for the quick reply and the helpful advice which i'll pay heed to,much love and respect,also subscribed. 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾
No idea sorry. Mostly cars from the late 1990's that used this. Tata back then we're probably building cars using other manufacturers' older tech, so it might be possible they used this tech but can't say! Sorry.
How do you get the EKA? When you lost it, it’s almost impossible to get it. You can’t buy it online. I’ve a tool to read and program EKA codes and also can program fobs.
You used to be able to buy them so easy online back when I made this video, not there seems to only be trade site for the Dealers as I think all the cheap sites have gone bump with less and less demand over the years as cars have switched to transponder/chipped keys/fobs.
Hi on some Holdens, you used to be able to keep the key in the switched on position for 2 hours and the light would go out and you would be able to start the car (providing the battery was not dead by then!), but as far as I know they deleted this feature from 99 onwards so probably would not work on your vehicle. Earlier to this on older cars it was something like 45 minutes in the handbook. but as far as I know they removed it as the cars were far too easy to steal even after they had upped it to the 2 hour wait. Not sure what system replaced it, sorry.
Helloooo! Please help!! I have a ford focus 1.6 2005, immobiliser light went on, engine neither start or crank. can u help me? I have an code for the sony player. Is there any chance it is the same with the Eka code???
Hi they usually came with the handbooks but are most often long since lost. The main dealers used to be the place to get them for free (with proof of i.d. and opwnership) but as the cars that used the systems have aged even most of the dealers got rid of the codes too! At one point the codes were available on ebay for £2, but the dealers seemed to get anyone selling them shut down (which was fair enough!). Now you have to find a dealer or autoelectrician that can still obtain codes from a trade only company that can supply them. A company called Hickleys are the only ones I know of now that can supply them to the trade, although not being in the trade, I have no idea of the costs involved.
Audi dealers or autolocksmith although I am not sure what tech Audi used, as much as I love everything Audi I've never owned one. My Dad had one when I was a kid though. Better to check the Audi forums out before spending any money you don't have to though as often the forum folk have the knowledge needed when it comes to what you might need.
Hi. I have Renault Modus 2005. I cant start my car, beacus immoblizer light in dash dosent turn off and also i tryed with enother key. Can you please help me?
Hi, I have no knowledge of any Renault systems, the only Renault I had was a 2005 Renault Grand Scenic, but that had keycard to start it rather than keys. I did have many problems to sort on that car though and I found through Google that almost all the answers I needed were on the Renault Forum which was ever so helpful to me, so take a look or ask on there and hopefully somebody can help you with this one.
+ifitsgotwheels thanks for your recommented. I pick up my car in renault company. Beacuse it is programing and the key code. I reed in web. Thanks for your help😊
the 2006 - 2009 models seem to be a difficult one where even with the software keys won't program in. Seems you need to find a specialist to do them or have them delete the immobilised, both require you to send off the engine ecu. not sure what happens with the light though whether you have to remove them too! Anyone got a similar VW that knows?
Hi, I am not sure what you mean, but if somone has keys to your car and you don't want to go to the trouble of having all the locks changed, fit an aftermarket steering lock, it won't stop them from getting in, but is still one of the best ways to stop your car being taken.
Hi your Seat Leon probably uses VW 5th Generation of Immobiliser. This is far to complex for me. Seems that have really upped the security on them, and you will need a specialist (or someone off a VW/Seat forum that can help.)
They came with the car. Now the only way to get them seems to be from the dealerships or an autolocksmiths. You have to be in the trade now to obtain them, in the past anyone could buy and them. They used to be on eBay but not no more, sorry.
I see a lot of people have problems with those TERRIBLE immobiliser system on ANY car cie. I have a Mazda 3 2006 and it won't start because of this sh...t. Would be great if someone could do a video about the key not being recognize, and a fix for it once and for all. We are not electrician engineer. We just want our f...g car to start...
Facts did you ever got it fixed or figure how to get pass the immobilizer lol I got a 2005 Mazda 3 sedan it started doing this here again I'm frustrated as hell lol
@@elavation7890 yes i did. I remove the CAR BATTERY and remove any greenish and whitish stuff on the connectors, wait 20 min, then replugged it. Not only did it fix my alarm system going off all the time, and my key not being recognized, but it also solve my transmission limp mode problem (not being able to shift above gear 3) I COULD NOT BELIEVE IT. It seems the mazda computer is really sensible about the amount of electricity it received from the battery. If greenish and whitish stuff is present, that will be enough to give you all kind of weird issues. clean those connectors but also make sure you clean (sand off) the round connector from your cables... I could not believe it could be so simple. The dealer wanted me to bring the car over...imagine how much that would have cost me!!! Changing the computer was more than 200$ + work time... if that doesn't work, i also did the trick with the window, door and hatch to de active the alarm, but it only works one time before i finally gave up and disconnected the battery and did the cleaning. I really hope that will help. Great car by the way, they don't do them this way anymore. Just their alarm system is bogus and very frustrating, yes... Take care!
@jessikapiche6097 yea I took my car in and there asking 400 something dollars I got to barrow the money sad....but nah I literally got to get my original battery back as well from orielys I thought it was my battery after they said it was dead SMH....I'm literally up to here...fudge bucket. And your right these cars are good after researching the alarm system I was man damn but ima getting a extra set a keys and probly a new immobilizer
@@elavation7890Sorry to hear that... I think very often the dealers don't even know what is really wrong. They just change the computer, check if the car start and if not, they say there is another problem, change the cables, and only in the end, do they check that the ground is ok. I have seen some rusty bolt ground make the same problem.
@jessikapiche6097 I got the email today from mazda saying it was the pcm and or harness wire fuse I'm like I could of fix that my self SMH to late now lol.
hi, got a 2004 Porsche cayenne S, car has immobilizer active when switch to start, no lights come on except for the middle screen with the immobilizer active. is there a code for my car? radio works too btw. HELP
I have a Toyota Yaris Verso year 2000 automatic petrol I ve lost my keys. but I still have a key with no remote just the blade I made a purchase of a new key with a transponder , but needs programming Any help will highly appreciated Thanks
The video is mentioning the master transponder key? I don't have it , but only the blade to get inside the car Because of the immobiliser, I can't start the car. The car cranks but the engine doesn't start.
It seems not, up to 2005; www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/key-remote-replacement-troubleshooting-mk4-jetta-golf-new-beetle-passat/ after 2005; www.myturbodiesel.com/wiki/key-and-remote-replacement-repair-faq-for-mk5-mk6-vw/
They are hard to find now. They usually came on cards with the car handbooks, so most have long since been lost. I can no longer find any websites or ebay sellers that do them now. The only way to get them now is from the car dealers or auto locksmiths. Some original dealers may still have their lists. Some lists got chucked away, some went to owners clubs and forums. Nowadays dealers that don't have them can still purchase from 'Hickleys' the dealer/trade only website. Best of Luck!
Usually found on a credit sized card in with the handbooks or printed / written in the handbooks. If you don't have these, then they are hard to come buy now, other than from the car dealers or an autolocksmith.
Hi. Thanks for yr video. As my car ford galaxy 2009. Immobilzer active. Can anybody provide me mobilizer bypass key. Since it is not starting. Thanks lot
older fiats have a similar system but uses the throttle pedal to enter the code uk insurance companies insist that the key code card be removed from the owners pack before delivery to the customer.
I had a problem with a 2000 commodore grange where the immobilser was not allowing the fuel pump to activate and wouldn't start so out of frustration used a process which resets my wifes audi Q5 computer , key on ,brake on , foot flat on fuel pedal for 30 seconds, then start this worked for me not sure why or how but thought I'd share as I knew how frustrating this problem can cause especially if you're miles from home????
sorry i do not have any codes, they usually came with the vehicles handbooks, nowadays you have to go back to the dealers or get an auto locksmith to obtain them
I am not sure if this car had any manual method to reset the throttle position sensor or not, or if it was all just done automatically. On the Rover 820, 2 litre T-series engines though (also fitted to other rovers) the Stepper Motor can be reset at anytime. To do this simply turn the ignition on with the key, and then press the accelerator pedal 5 times in a row. On the 5th time you should hear the stepper motor clicking as it resets itself. (If you are in a noisey area, you may want someone else to listen or press the pedal for you).
EKA open then close drivers door and lock door. How do you find your code number? These ridiculous things with the Volvo is ridiculous Stand on your head ,pat your belly, while touching your nose.
+Deivis Bass Hi, the code should be on a card in the drivers handbook, if it is not then you can buy the code by searching for 'rover key code' or 'car key codes' etc., online. Mine cost me £20 to buy it. expensive, I know, but worth it, as I need the car in the meantime before I can stop long enough to find and resolve my problems.
I have a 5 digit code and first # is 0... possibly wrong code key? Just got this 2005 pathfinder that won't start, just clicks when trying to turn it over. Replaced the battery, starter and relay fuses. Also cleaned negative battery cable connections and still does the same. The security light although only flashes as it is supposed to and does not remain lit, also it does not show to be malfunctioning either when key is turned to on position. Keyfob works as well... any ideas please? The manual indicated that the issue may still be tge security immobilizer... I'm about exhausted on answers. Boutta go try turning the flywheel to ensure engine is not locked up. Oil in engine looks good
Hi, I am not sure. It seems most cars that had this sort of system were from the late nineties. Throughout the 1990's I was driving a 1989 GM van which back had no immobilisers so we fitted an after market one with touch key. Having only recently gone back to GM products with a 2011 van (and 2014 car) that has a transponder key, I don't know how any of their vehicles from the 90's or naughties were secured. Only thing I can suggest you try if your vehicle is from the nineties, is to turn the key in the lock a couple of times one way then the next then do it again, if the horn beeps then you just entered incorrectly, if it does not beep then the car probably has a different system on it.
No, sorry, without the instrution manuals I'm useless at wiring. Immobilisers that I had used to have all black wires just to make things even harder too.
Hey pls reply how do I find the code for my VR4 2004 legnum? I’m trying to sell it ASAP and my buyer is coming tonight at 8pm. He came yesterday but since I changed the battery the car won’t start because I don’t have the fob key.
Hi this method usually only works on cars from the late nineties. Almost everything 2000 onwards came with coded ignition systems and/or transponder keys/fobs most of which can only be sorted out by dealers or auto locksmiths with specialist equipment, unless you can find anything on a car owners forum. Sometimes existing owners know of anything that can be done or units that can be swapped out. Sorry I am unable to help with it for you.
Hi pls help me 😢 2000 age land Rover Freelander 1.. 2.0di engine my key dont work and car no working l dont have a eka key number ..how my car work ? Pls
Hi sorry to hear about your troubles, this method did work on some Land Rovers (probably model years up until around 1998-2001 although I can't be sure of the cut off dates or models exactly!) If it is applicable to your vehicle then instead of opening and closing the drivers door at the start of the sequence like shown, you need to turn the key to the lock position and hold it there for a minimum 5 seconds so the car knows you are about to try entering the code. The rest should be the same, thanks. but with no EKA, the method is of no use anyway, so you may need to contact an auto electrician/locksmiths or Land Rover dealer for an EKA. Alternatively your vehicle may have some sort of chip/transponder in the key /and iginition. Again for chipped keys you will need the dealer or auto electrician to sort them out in most cases, sorry I can not be of anymore help, having never owned one myself.
I have 97 Saab 9000 immobilized by anti theft system No fob. Drivers door lock unlock usually works and can start. Electric al storm last night have anything to do with this? How can I reset
Hi. Check out Eric's vid here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DLgGyRSxOaQ.html as it seems the internal battery in the Saabs can be a common problem and may be a good place to start looking...
Hi, any idea if this could work with Peugeot 406 from 2003? Also do have any clue what the code could be for this car? Like is there any code library I where I could find it?
Yes some vehicle's need the brake or clutch pedal pressed. our Jeep wrangler has the clutch pedal method and our Astra has the brake pedal one. Both still have immobilisers and remotes as well though.
The code came with the car handbooks although could also be got from the dealers. The last MGs and Rovers that used this system were around 2003, I do not know when Honda last used it and by 2003 many Honda models could have switched over to transponder keys instead where the key or fob had a chip inside instead. It usually costs a bit to get spare keys or fobs that are coded to a car and on these older vehicles it can be better to try and find a specialist that can code a key rather than going to the dealers. One alternative is to check the forums for those with similar make and model to see what electronics can be changed if any, as a second hand set of electronics and keys can sometimes prove worthwhile if you can locate a cheap set from the scrap dealers or eBay or clubs or forums, sometimes they can be easy to find other times not so.
Hi the immobiliser / alarm ECU should be located under the dash / above the pedals. These guys can supply a remote (£150 (april 2020)(might be more for international buyers)); remotekey.co.uk/rover-key-fob-replacment/rover-800-repalcement-key-fobs/ if you can send them the ECU, but check with them first to be sure. If you only want the code, then those are harder to get now as most of the old Rover dealers have gone now and the UK dealers probably would not have any codes for exported cars anyway. Unfortunately, the cheap MG-Rover codes website that used to supply codes for a few pounds has since closed down. It is possible to replace the units in a vehicle but I think you need the Immobiliser/Alarm ECU (above) plus the cars main ECU (from the engine bay) as well as the remotes to do this, but even second hand these may be harder to locate these days although ebay is always worth a try, but as far as I am aware both ECUs are required so ignore any listings that only supply one unit, unless someone can confirm otherwise. As the immobiliser ECU and main ECU are programmed together I do not think you can just remove or doctor the immobiliser ECU to get the car to start, so there is no easy fix. You do need a working remote or key code to start the cars. Please not all of the above is for 95/96 onwards cars, I do not know anything about the earlier cars, thanks.
No. That was my old Rover. It works on some Rovers, Hondas, Land Rovers, Jags, Kias and maybe a few others, all of which would be 15-25 years old now. Other cars had different systems, some even entered codes via the brake pedal, others were with PC hook up only. Anything less than 15 years old usually has a transponder chip in the key or remote that is programmed to the car and these usually require a dealer or locksmith with specialist equipement to recode.
