In this restoration I wanted to leave the look this axe would have had when it was in one piece. I am very satisfied with the result and with its functionality. I hope you like it Instagram: bunkerTools
👉👉👉👉👉👉👉 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-L-kFGZms1oc.html 👈👈👈👈👈 En este vídeo utilizo este hacha / In this video I use this ax / В этом видео я использую топор
I absolutely love it when people use their mind to overcome hard problems with very basic tools. It put more emphasis on skills. Pretty much anyone with little experience could have split it open, put it in the forge and bashed it when it's white. For a long time only tools I had were couple hand tools and my feet as vice. Didn't stop me from building a medieval crossbow. Great job, dude👌.
No sé si me puedes entender,pero la verdad es que este ha sido uno de los mejores trabajos que has hecho,y la verdad que con tus vídeos se aprenden muchas cosas, sigue así 👍.un saludo desde España.🇪🇦
Muchas gracias amigo, claro que te entiendo, yo también soy de España. Me alegra ver la positiva opinión que tienes sobre los proyectos que hago. Sin duda, con comentarios como el tuyo uno se motiva más a seguir mejorando y aportando lo que pueda. Un Saludo compañero gracias!!
*Me ha gustado mucho,y eso que yo no soy de ver este tipo de videos,trabajas muy bien y me encanto que traducieras algunas partes al español* Traduction: I liked it a lot, and I am not watching this type of videos, you work very well and I loved that you translated some parts into Spanish
Почему нагревом-оттяжкой-закалкой-отпуском, по УМУ не сделать?! Просто испортил хорошее изделие - топор! Кто рапид(напильник) ставит на остриё ударного инструмента? Да ещё и с плохого качества сваркой.
Не нужно так критично относиться. Видно же что топор изначально не для рубки был, а так, курам бошки отсекать. Топоры бывают разные и такие туристические тоже должны быть.
Looks beautiful, however not sure how long that weld will last. Normally two steels are forge welded together when creating an axe, but you did the best with what you had
Я не специалист, но почему то кажется что так не варят, что это за сопли там, я ни разу сварку в руках не держал, но почему то кажется что так сварить и я бы смог )) Сори если я не прав)
Por ahora sigue perfecto y ya ha trabajado, aunque no demasiado, pero teniendo en cuenta que este hacha esta destinada a descortezar y trabajos de talla mas superficiales estoy seguro que aguantará perfectamente, el tiempo lo dirá. Gracias a ti, saludos!
Bro you want to shave your arms and your not a swimmer, it's cool man who cares what people think, it's 2020. You didn't have to repair an axe head and go through all the trouble just for a little manscaping. You do you my man, screw what others think. Great job on the restoration though
Should have normalised the file first, left it twice as long as needed folded and forge welded to the end of the axehead then re heat treated the cutting edge. The welds will fail eventually. If you were adamant about welding it on, use gas welding.
hola, solo comentar que este estilo de hacha es un hacha catalana, solo utilizada en Catalunya desde tiempos remotos, desconozco el porque de la similitud a las hachas nordicas, pero es una hacha que tiene la mayor precision de golpeo, muy bien por la restauracion, decirte que si buscas estas hachas aqui en catalunya encontraras de todos los tamaños que deses. saludos
En efecto, se trata de un hacha catalana, ya se lo he comentado a mas de uno (habla inglesa) que creía que había puesto el hacha al revés.. si miras mi canal verás que restauré otro hacha catalana bastante más grande (me costó 5€ por wallapop..) Muchas gracias por tu comentario, eres el primero que hace referencia a la procedencia del hacha. Tengo una pregunta, cuando dices que tiene la mayor precisión de golpeo, te refieres arrojandola? Saludos!
bunkerTools lanzándola no lo sé jejejeje pero si a la hora de trabajar la madera los golpes son muy precisos y no dañas tanto la madera haciendo cortes innecesarios, ósea que no solo se utilizaba para la tala gruesa que también se utilizaba para la confección de trabajos más finos, para moldear la madera según que se quisiera hacer
@@damiavidalsalvado5405 jajaja okok😅 La verdad que esta la estoy usando y es la mejor que tengo para descortezado y rebajes de troncos para prepararlos para tornear, va realmente bien.
Muchas gracias Juanjo. Lo del tubo de pvc se me ocurrió en la primera restauración de hacha que hice y la verdad, bonito no es pero va perfecto, y se puede aplicar a otro tipo de herramientas.
That is quite amazing. I thought that if You took of the welding from the outside the acts would break but apparently in welts in between the plates too. Is that the case? Beautiful work
@@jesseterrell9354 Actually a row of dimes is a good thing, but not when using a stick welder. you either need to do each dime, then stop and clean it of the slag and such, or do a solid weld where the slag and such does not solidify until you're past that point of welding. with this here and there one on top of another method, you're liable to get blank spots and inclusions that are really slag or other impurities. I was expecting better welding since he prepared the weld joint properly, guaranteeing a good weld if you don't get junk in it. also I think he was running a bit hot. Lower the heat and do a continuous weld. that metal was pretty thin, too much heat makes it hard to do right. a nice TIG weld would have been the way to go if he had such skills and equipment. Also many don't pay attention to the grain of the metal. Metal has grain just like wood, but on a smaller scale. if you grind across the grain, you'll remove more material but get a much rougher finish from the same grinding wheel.
There is a risk of cracks at the weld site. At least you should have done full tempering and repeated quenching. A better normal blacksmith welding, with two petals on the sides.
la soldadura es una gran debilidad con gran seguridad se va a romper ahi una buena soldadura es de corrido y las piesas precalentadas en ese caso las piesas se unen mejor
Yo con seguridad no te puedo decir si aguantará o no, yo creo que si, ya que este hacha es para trabajos de talla sobretodo, que son menos exigentes, pero el tiempo lo dirá, desde luego voy a seguir usando este hacha y saldremos de dudas.. Gracias por aportar tu opinión
Estoy aprendiendo, y me surgió una duda, entiendo que el enfriar las piezas es para no perder el temple del material. Pero eso no cristaliza y debilita la soldadura?
Quien se puede imaginar que parte de ella es un trozo de lima???😶 Te a quedado perfecta, se que te va dar pena usarla pero es lo que hay, se cogen ciertos vínculos con las herramientas echas a mano, que no nos dejan usarlas 😂😂😂
Muchas gracias Mikel! Pues a mi no me da ninguna pena usarla! 😂 Eso si, ya le he cogido cariño especial. Me encanta hacer cosas funcionales, es doble satisfacción, y por cierto me he hecho otra herramienta que estoy encantado, y también la uso! jajaja ya la verás 😉
Thank you. I don't know anything about this axe, it was lying on a farmhouse. The name that appears engraved ''FONT'' I guess it is the last name of the creator of the axe
my only question is wouldnt be better to tack one side and make a few passes than to tack fill in the crack up , cleaning after every pass , I would be afraid it would break not hot enough welds , but you did great job , not complaining just asking
I'm a welder for 30 years I would tack opposite side get you a piece of copper put under the crack and weld crack with a strip weld dead center then fill sides up with other passes and get all slag of before another pass and then do side of tack , you did great job , I like to do this stuff too I like to hear others and how they do jobs nobody knows everything
@@ronwallace6273 I'm not a welder, but I think just weld a beat on will heat the base material and make it brittle. It's high carbon steel. Tack filling it puts less heat in.
@@fredschuttenbeld4571 the problem is just tacking it you don't get penetration and it will break easier , your just filling it not welding both sides together
@@ronwallace6273 yes I know that, but that's why this guy made a kind of tongue and groove. It is my understanding that if welding high carbon steel with a lot of penetration (heat) it will make the base material brittle and susceptible to cracking (the reason why welding high carbon steel is difficult to weld) and thus (I thought) a common practice is make a V groove and (tack) fill it. But as I said I'm not a welder. I just came across this video as I was searching for welding axe heads. As someone asked me to weld a cracked/chipped axe head. I have done a fair bit of welding in my life but wanted to see how others handle this task.
i think the letters are ''FONT'' I guess it is the last name of the creator of the original ax, the ax was forged by hand (I think). Thank you very much for your comment 👍
I think this is not true. first you need to normalize the file. because file is very hard and fragile. The second step is to weld. (electric arc, forged or other way, it doesn't matter. ) . Finally, the hatchet must be hardened again. As you have done, the ax mouth is very hard and fragile, the weld line is very weak in integrity, like the weak ring of the chain.
I dont know if you are right in what you say, but I am using the ax normally and it works perfectly, in addition, it does not show any sign of breakage.
@@bunkerTools ok I understand you. This is just an advice. And be careful when the use it. İf you wonna you can investigate what I say. Have a good work...
