I know it works, we used two concrete bags just like these to weigh down the back our basketball hoop, years later they are hard as rock. It was not intentional. I wonder if these could be used for a house foundation or even a house wall or even the base of a floor that can have the low points filled in later.
@Ventura IT - Thanks for the comment. I know you are thinking out of the box, yet I would not use for structural. Cobble stone walk, if the price is right.
@Ventura IT - I knew a friend that built his house out of solid poured concrete. Reminded me of the concrete monolithic domes. FEMA shelter and resistant to wind forces and earthquakes. - www.monolithic.org/
I live in Northern Ireland, the local park has this sort of thing. A small stream runs through a culvert under the main road. The river bank is built up almost vertically to a height of about 5 feet using this method. I'm remembering this from almost 50 years ago, it was made with old fashioned sackcloth bags and the sackcloth wasn't removed, it was realising it was sacks of cement and not stones that has made it stick in my memory. I know that road was new in 1945 and I'm talking about me seeing it in the mid to late 1970s so it was made sometime between them 2 dates. It is still holding up without any issues after all that time. Curiously, a stretch of the wall about 40 metres further on which was stone and cement did collapse in the late 70s early 80s. The park is prone to flooding when we have heavy continuous rain.
@darnstewart - Thank you for taking the time to share this. I really appreciate learning about this. I would wonder if ready mix was produced in bags at that time or if the mixture. I would love to see a picture of this park you are describing. Maybe it is on google. Perhaps this is similar to what you saw many years ago. Thank you again! :) www.premier-concrete.com/products/pipeline/3-1-bags/ www.agg-net.com/resources/articles/concrete/the-dawn-of-the-ready-mixed-concrete-industry
Very nice alternative to traditional methods. Looks solid. Perfect alternative for a lot of shovel work for places that need drainage for road building / improvement where it might be difficult to get even a small concrete truck in.
I bought a pallet of concrete for my posts on my metal fence. We moved the bags in a wheelbarrow 3 at a time, was a lot of work. This is much more than I did, looks super nice.
The wheelbarrow is useful. I try to place the pallet close to the job and transport with the ATV back rack. Don't you hate it when a full barrow dumps on you! Especially when its a wet day and full of clay. Glad you got your fence done right.
LOVE THIS!! Incredible job 👏👍👍💯 so much easier, cheaper then spending $20,000 on a retaining wall. People are like oh that's lazy! I'm like no it's genius and I don't think laziness is the problem lol maybe the problem is people don't have 20 gs on stand by to dish out on a wall
The important thing on a wall is the drainage in the back, it's the hydrostatic pressure and soil pressure behind the wall that makes them fail and these pressures, if not dealt with properly, will knock down any wall.
Yeah, I had a general contractor (asked him about a retaining wall & siding options) recommend against doing a retaining wall because they're so ridiculously expensive. He said that our best option was to weight DIY options from youtube videos. =p
Dam wish I'd seen this a year ago! I have the same thing but had a wall poured and cost me lots the wall is cracked and missed shaped like yours way better!
Thanks for comment. Sorry to hear. - I guess a commercial level wall pour (not thin wall) works. You have no idea how many contractors laughed at my builds with all their thoughts without ever having done this. Been done for many years / decades ago and still holding. It is no laughing matter when when you pay the contractor 20 times my cost. :)
Great job on these videos. Three questions. First, are the horizontal rebar pieces placed between every row? Are they necessary? I guess they add lateral strength? Second - do you water and solidify a few rows at a time, or build the whole wall and then water the whole thing? I imagine that it might be hard to get them all wetted properly if you had full 4' high wall of bags. Last thing - I have heard and seen on some other sites that some of the quicrete bags now have a liner which would prevent water from getting into the bag. Is this true? Do you have to use a specific style of bag? Thanks for the valuable information.
Thank you. The horizontal rebar are not necessary, yet I placed them in two of the highest rows at the corner only to key in and lock the wall more. This wall was solid clay and stable soils so it will likely never move. The curve area is helping stabilize the whole wall as a unit. The culvert was on bedrock. Yes, I did a few rows or courses at a time. They solidify even with outdoor humidity as they draw in moisture let alone a good rain or flooded water. I used paper bags and paper bags with a brown wax lining that resists water. Plastic is not my preferred, yet would have one advantage of not stretching which is similar to "fiber reinforced" bags called Rip Rap concrete bags by Quikrete made specifically for this. Plastic would require holes punched in using a small piece of plywood with screws or nails and a 2x4 on the side for a handle. Then of course punch the bags through with rebar from the top multiple times. Rip Rap bags are best, or paper.
I just moved into a property and was told today that in a heavy storm rain rushes right towards my house. It continues on off the property but, it's a huge concern. Thinking a four foot height should be more than enough. My first question is. Would this work as a wall without backfill behind it. Explains why the previous owner had blocks on that side of the house, about 6 foot from the house, down the whole length of the home. And siding and flooring issues on that side.
Hi @TheTamrock2007. This sounds like a steep slope next to your home or back of home. I can only give you ideas to consider. The four foot wall might be too high to stand on it's own indefinitely. 2.5 feet would be good unless you put it deep. Line it with heavy mill plastic to keep the water behind it. Yet, curve the wall so it directs water and does not pool. Combine it with a french drain on the water side. - I did multiple french drains to handle my water situation. Look at your topology and use the area to your advantage using high and low areas. A water bar system might direct water away from the home using multiple zones, like divide it in half, directing to each side. You could combine this with french drain in front of the bar, wet side, line it with plastic in the bottom facing your home. Even the water bar might be reinforced with the concrete bags. Also, can you grade and slope the ground away from your foundation? Do not forget geofabric to prevent erosion. Here is a the french drain I posted. Yet you need more barrier from what it sounds like. Think it through, observe wet season, evaluate, plan, and you will find the solution. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-XWEcCW-Fm5Q.html
@@SteveAddis thank you so very much with that quick response, and right before Christmas. Merry Christmas 🎁 When you said line it with heavy mil plastic, underneath?, between each course?
@@TheTamrock2007 Drape it under top course, facing over wall, down below ground level on water side, or upstream side. Much success an Merry Christmas to you all as well!
Great look. How do you drive the vertical rebar to tie them together? Just a bunch of short rebar sticks and hammer them in on each level? I worry that the upper bag I “drop” over the rebar will split when I do it, but maybe they’re stronger paper than I think.
Sledge hammer. I try do do several courses or more. Yes, had to punch through bags. Yes I had some short rebar to prevent removal at the top of the wall. You can cut small starter holes first in the bag. Paper is two layers. I would drop it rapidly on the rebar while holding it. Thanks for your comment.
Wow, that's really impressive! Thanks for sharing. I'm actually in a similar boat-I've got these huge retaining walls to build on my property for the driveway embankments. I'm on a tight budget and trying to find ways to save as much money as I can. Any tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
You are welcome. I used rip rap to hold a steep drive side. Dumped bags of concrete in between especially near the top edge which locked in. Geo fabric is a plus. I used the mixed stone with lime dust packs hard with water for the drive. Buy bags bulk. Thanks for your comment! You will get it done - with some work.
Hey buddy! I know what you are up to, Pro-Concrete-Jobs...I need to do a couple of more small walls. If life permitted, I would come work with you for fun and learn the cool CC stuff. Take care - God's blessings in the work of your hands!
2:27 - why would you not just use Portland cement (or a mix of Portland cement and paver sand) for filling cracks? It appears that the rock aggregate contained in the concrete is being shed aside anyway.
@JemicoTX - Yes you are right. I might experiment with that item. It was just what I had at the time. I did want a binder with the cement such as the sand contained in the Ready-Mix product. Now on two of the walls I used S-mortar and it seemed to work. It worked in cracks yet seemed to peel off smooth surfaces. Again, need to test this. Thanks for your input and comment!
the type s does have the most organic tint and garden variety quickcrete is that type but if you shop or order direct you can, or at least could when I was doing stuff like this, get it in both types I and n as well.
Interesting project. How many times did u need to soak the bags and have you broken open any of the finished bags to see how deep the water got inside each "block?" Do you think it would make any difference if you soaked each layer of bags prior to setting the next layer of bags on the one below it? I've always loved the look of a rock wall but the cost of the rock and labor involved is prohibitive where I'm at.
It was soaked a couple of times. When it set, it was soaked all night. I did not check this wall because the water should have reached the center as it absorbs in the concrete. By doing a few layers at a time as you mentioned, it would reduce the load and stretching of the bags, reducing cracks forming on the face. I like the rock look too. Please see this video and see if it helps. Thanks! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-tUlc1Qb5A74.html
@@SteveAddis Thx for the quick reply, a lot of original posters don't reply at all. Nice work, subscribed. If you were to do this again is there anything you would do different?
Hi @Jon B. Hey, you are welcome. On this particular wall, I would not have rushed the job and stacked so many at a time. This resulted in some cracks forming in the face as it set up. Also, mixing the bags more. I cut the hill back an extra two feet yet was tired of digging the extremely hard clay by hand with a pick and shovel and did not cut the footer in as much as I might have. I would have ended up going through the blue clay completely and then that would not have left as much base, yet would lock that wall in. If powered tools were used, it would have been nice to cut the hill back more for cars and also made the french drain in front of the wall deeper by a couple of feet The water on the hill seeps to the clay, then creates seep springs, drains under the garage pea gravel, thus the french drain to take that water away from the garage. Thanks for the subscribe. Take care.
That is great idea and would save time. We sometimes have no burn due to forest fires. I may try it when I am able. Thank you for the great comment! :)
Sure. You keep the paper on for a couple of months or more. Do a section and place rebar in to allow for linking the next section. Lightly water the bags, cover with plastic so that it does not get rained on and over satuated. Let it sit for a night and repeat. Lightly water where rebar breaks the bags. Water will soak in. Punch extra rebar holes and pull them out and water there some. When it sets up a bit, then you can give it some more heavier sprinkle. If you sprinkle water too long in the beginning, the bags stretch on the face and sometimes the concrete will separate a bit without side support support. This is why I taped the bags. Now, when it is setup, I simply let the water sprinkle all night long or wait for good rains to do the rest of the job. Test your methods on a small area.
Why doesn't the bottom of the bag that makes contact with the bag under it create a natural separation point? Is the bag designed to disintegrate allowing the bags to bond? Are these bags of concrete specifically designed for this purpose?
You are correct and there is a separation at the paper. Paper does break down, yet not much of a bond except the natural self locking. No on the bag design for this purpose. Those bags are called Rip Rap Bags by Quikreet. Thanks for your comment.
Do more than one row and what you feel you can do at the time. Wet the sections yet have the vertical rebar protruding out so that you can continue with connected bags.
@bob8776- The entrance was 650 Bags and the exit was likely similar or less bags.- I did not count that side. Have a good weekend and thanks for the question!
You might be able to do that. Best lightly dust them with sandy mortar or concrete dry after you apply water so they don't end up slippery. - Thank you for your comment.
Im surprised the bags are so solid, like that they absorbed the water all the way through the thickness of the bag. Do you think deep within the wall there are sections that haven't gotten enough water and are just powder still?
So Steve, I'm looking to divide my small pond in half (currently about 2' deep) the cheapest way, because I cannot get large equipment down to it, do you think a "bag" wall would hold water back if I just carried them into the pond and put them in place?
I placed bags under water in front of my culvert and they setup very solid. I would cleanup and prep where you place them. Mix the bags well and pack them. Place them carefully one course at a time and do not disturb them for a day or two. Then check them and continue. I would not want to use rebar unless it is fiberglass. I never tried stacking more than one course under water and would be afraid the bags would stretch too much and break apart. Let me know your results. Thanks
Ive been thinging of building a gabion wall refaining wall but doing it around a cement bag wall. The look of the bags will be irrelevant as they will ve covered on the front and top with sones. Seems like it may be a way to get the look i want while being potentially stronger and MAYBE saving time and money (i expect the concrete to be xonsiderably cheaper than the stone i would use to cover it). Any opinions?
Best to get pricing on both bags and riprap stone by the ton. My last riprap purchase was more costly than than smaller stone mixed with lime. Now concrete bags have gone up in price as well. For sure, put ties in the bags to allow for the gabion connections. If I wanted gabion, I would put the cloth behind it and just go that route, unless there was a special need in a section of wall for using the bags stacked. Thanks for you comment!
Depends on which wall. Fabric, yes - separation for the back side and stone. Retaining wall sets on clay nearly as hard as rock, then rebar driven into it. Yet, good footer and tie backs are usually needed.
Yes, you should. This soil was so hard behind the wall a pickax would not hardly break it except for the surface top soil. I was not about to disturb that solid area for a tieback. Thanks for the comment.
That is a really good way too for sure. I wanted to do the culvert myself because contractors and availability at the time. Thanks for your input and comment!
I tested it with and water absorbs or wicks in to the bags easily, especially when the rebar punches through. Yes, I made sure. Thanks for your comment.
These examples are free standing walls and not structural foundations. Though I am not an expert, I would prefer formed basements with rebar well sealed. A facade wall for appearance? It is great that you are thinking and looking outside the box which leads to creative ideas. Take care.
You are welcome. I let it go for two days and keep it wet if possible. I am told it cures more over the years. The concrete bags in the stream with constant contact to water setup more solid - when I first checked for strength.
@SteveAddis once the wall is set you could then just tip the gravel into the culvert as a liner or behind the wall as backfill, if it's going to end up in there anyways might as well put it to work on the way lol
@French Fries - Burlap would hold together better than paper when wetting. These two layer paper with inner brown layer more durable. Plastic would need holes punched, yet never tried plastic. Thanks for your comment.
You do understand that bagged concrete is the most expensive concrete you can buy right? I have seen people that make rounded pellets of concrete and stack them like you've done with bags, but the pellets are made with mixed concrete.
Have you built any free standing (non retaining) walls using these bags? I would absolutely love to have something like this up to replace my privacy fencing that is literally falling down. Don’t need a retaining wall though.
I have thought about it some for just above a drive retaining wall. I planned to make it short though, connected to the wall. Then go up a few more feet with PT wood using steel post anchors. You might research how to make the foundation and structure so that it does not fall over because of the weight. It might need to be built similar to the old stone walls of past. I bet that would be a nice looking fence!
Maybe you could plan the job. Find some reasonable young friends that would not charge too much, up for the challenge. Direct the whole project and get the results you want. Then do the mortar, color and so forth. I am trying to get this done while I can, so I never have to do any of it over again. I have had a privacy fence rot over time and require maintenance. These things should last long past my shelf life.
I have some culverts that need retaining walls. I looked into the commercial rip rap bags but they are not available anywhere near me. Do you recommend any one brand of retail bags over another? The area I am doing is smaller than yours, so I am probably looking at either 60lb bags or filling grocery bags. Any helps in choosing mix or brand is appreciated. Thanks for the videos!
Hi Rick. Quikrete has worked well using standard ready mix. I had one bag from a pallet that I rushed and did not mix it in the bag. The side did not setup. Not bad out of 10 pallets. You should be able to use any brand "ready mix". "Test" the concrete brand you buy first, mix it well, then water it. It is more work for me moving it in smaller bags. Maybe you can stack 60lb bags with the smooth "ends" facing out and get your wall thickness with the length of the bag and save time keeping the material in the original bag. Be sure to roll and mix the contents. Your bagging method will allow you to mix multiple bags together, which should work well. You are welcome and glad the video might be helpful!
Longevity of this method? Seem like it might lead to un-uniform concrete, low strength, and cracking. I'm not a concrete expert, so I wonder what an experienced expert would say.
@J - It has been done years ago. Not as strong as a pour, yet better than the big box store blocks. Non structural use here yet testing would be great. I will post in the future for sure. - Thanks for commenting.
@j - Other commenters - Seen this done on a country road some 40 years ago, its holding up very well too! Good Job! Excellent vid! My neighbor did the same build and it is holding up fine after a few years. He saved a lot of money. Thank you for taking the time to post this... My mom built a wall like this as a retaining wall for her pond. It's been there for years and still holding up well.
Hi. It the time it was not too much, the wall less than 1k. Do you mix the concrete with your mix of gravel and sand? That would extend the mix and still be better than the big box landscape blocks. Thanks for the information! :)
I once saw a video from a guy who was so proud that he had found enough construction scraps of vinyl tile of various colors and tones that he was able to retile a couple of duplexes he was renting out. It looked horrible. Probably broadcast the message to the tenants that he was cheap AF, too.
LOoks to me, like it would have been easier to cast large bricks out of the concrete and wet stacked them with mortar. All this post build work would be unnecessary.....i'm not convinced...
Thanks for the comment. I have not cast concrete bricks at least yet or done mortar work. Cast bricks are solid for certain. Two extra steps compared to simply stacking like I did. I like a wall that can pass water through and not hold it back.
You spent more on concrete by buying the bags and doing it that way then if you wanted to couple of forms and have concrete truck come out and then all you would have to do as move out the top
@AmeiricanPewDiePie - You sure are right. I updated the description. Thank you for your comment. - Just checked at Lowe's 50 lb bags. Discount for bulk. (Now $3.04 QTY 70 bags at Lowe's.) They also give military discount in addition to bulk if it applies.
It's all going to fall apart so quickly and become a real Big mess... we can already see the thousands of cracks everywhere, 2 or 3 winters and it's over... 9:38 the sponge effect shows that the cement doesn't is not solid and will become a very frillable cement... use dry stone or gabions...
Thanks for the comment. Yes, I noticed those too, when it was not setup...yet now on 3rd winter and it still looks fine. My followup video two years ago explains. Of course it is not a pour, yet very solid. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-b1dk4jhQfws.html
