The long-form is outstanding. I commend you, Lyle. Watching you work is oddly relaxing, and educational. Witnessing your process is reassuring of your integrity as a reputable tech. It also demonstrates the actual labor involved to perform these tasks. When the intangibles are factored in. The rate of the restoration/repair is ironclad. Keep them coming, Lyle. I believe your audience is eager to watch. Enjoy the weekend.
Lyle, I love these long form videos. You pick up an absolute treasure trove of details that a short quick video could never include. Brilliant mate keep them coming if you're able. Thank you so much for sharing this valuable wisdom and experience 👍🙂
Lyle thanks for specifically stating which solder you use and your experiences, bad solder is like a bad bottle of whiskey, i spent an arm and a leg on it and now i have to drink the damn thing
First, you used the word, "anathema." I love that word. Second, you spoke about not wearing shorts and being cognizant of your eyes when soldering. I would like to add to be careful if you solder with long sleeves. I generally don't, but the last time I did, I managed to transfer a solder splash into my eye from my sleeve, using my sleeve to wipe my face shortly after I was done wiring a guitar. It sucked and I had to go to the doctor for them to fish it out. No Fun! be safe and thank you Lyle for all the videos. I like the long ones too.
Saved this for my Friday night's viewing, enjoying your immaculate work as ever, my preferred alcohol is a Campbeltown single malt which I'm savouring as I watch you do this.
A note on screw size: The sheet metal screws in these Fenders are not #8 but #7, specifically #7-19 x 5/16" Type B (which means blunt tip). The major diameter of a #7 is 0.151". #8 is 0.164" and will enlarge the hole. I have found that a #8 will work in a stripped #7 hole; there's usually no need to go to #10. The replacement screws that Amplified Parts sells are #8, incidentally. This can bite you if you're just replacing a lost screw. The correct #7 screw is hard to find in small quantities, but McMaster-Carr has them, although in slightly longer 3/8" length and in stainless only. They have the #8 in the correct 5/16" length (#8-18 x 5/16") in zinc. I like your machine screw with nylock nut for the OT. Classy.
Thanks Bruce. I didn’t know that, as everyone sells #8s for this purpose, and they obviously aren’t #6s. That said, I’ve tried new #8s in stripped original holes and they didn’t grab - must depend on how stripped the holes are. But yeah, my preference is a 6-32 machine screw, washer, and nylock nut. Doesn’t enlarge any existing hole and provides a strong reliable connection.
Really appreciate the long format. Didn't get the "the blue dog barks at midnight". I'm sure it's on my end. I think different camera angles is a great idea. I did the same and purchased a Canon R6 and a Ninja V as a monitor and recorder. Bought a couple 1TB drives and I can edit video without moving the files to the computer. Saves a lot of time and space. Thanks again.
Love the long format videos. Learning a lot seeing the whole process - considering digging into RoRobinette's site and building somethign simple as a fun project but not going down the kit route! Got a couple of solid-state amps off a friend that are not working so going to do some practical fault diagnoasis learning on them too.
Outstanding Video ! I encourage you to continue in this longer format when you can. Besides the larnin' to be had topically, there is often good wisdom to be gleaned when you stray a bit. Great Stuff.
On editing footage from a 3 camera shoot - consider using a small video switcher with 2 or 3 cameras (one ceiling mounted would be nice) connected to it and just push a button to achieve your multi-camera shoot. Less editing in the end.
I love my Engineer solder sucker! I've also learned why the typical ones sold in the US have the long plunger guard on them: popped myself in the forehead with the Engineer a few times when working up close to get a good view 😂
finally got my local tech rebuilding my old Fender Pro AA763 back to spec, rather than a museum piece restoration. I got it as a butchered "boogied" 100 watt rocket and used it for decades doing all the regular upkeep stuff myself. Failing eyesight makes that no longer a good idea. For such a heavily gigged amp, it's cosmetically in great condition. I am looking forward to getting it back soon
I said to my buddy the other day that I'm glad Jimi or Page never used traynors, lol. He said, "Did you know that Lennon used -" And I said, "Would you be quiet?!" Lol
@8:42 Cutting mats are a great idea, however they are a bit busy-looking for my eyes and have a tendency to camouflage some parts and pieces. I've always used the surface mats used for drafting tables instead. They are self-healing just like most cutting mats. (a little better IMO) And withstand burning much better that regular cutting mats. They are a 5-ply vinyl in a solid color pastel gray or green. VYCO or Borco are the material trade names. I buy it by the roll and cut my own to my needs. It's likely more expensive that regular cutting mats, I believe, but worth it. (again, IMO)
You don't have to imagine what an amplifier interior might look like in "Blade Runner" or some other Ridley Scott movie ---- just examine a Mesa Boogie amplifier! PS, watch out for Alien xenomorphs!
Jimi did play late CBS fenders, I knew his late stage manager Eric Barret who stayed in Coatbridge Scotland and had the chance to play Jimi's Black flying V which he brought up to Scotland to his parents house when he passed. Different days Lyle and it seems such a long time ago.
That was an excellent video. It's extremely helpful to see this done in real time. I wasn't sure what cap to put in the bias but now I have your great information. Same with the dog house resistors. The whole video was great. I watched parts 2 and 3 but I didn't see a part one. Do you buy all your caps and resistors from one place or do you have to pick and choose from different sources? THE BLUE DOG BARKES AT MIDNIGHT. I watched every informative second. Great Work! The video also looks very good and the audio is also very good! I will be doing all this to my Deluxe Reverb and you have shown me some things I never thought about doing.
don't forget that hot glue attracts moisture and will induce rust to whatever it's touching. one of my big old peavey tube amps died because of hotsnot glue on one of the main signal cap's leads.
In decades of electronics work I have never found ordinary hot glue to be corrosive. What you're referring to is likely Sony Bond or something similar, a glue that was commonly used in ellectronics manufacturing to hold capacitors and other components to the board prior to wave soldering. That glue starts out tan-colored and rubbery but eventually morphs into something resembling burned sugar, becoming electrically conductive; and it will indeed corrode anything it touches. It eats right through component leads and circuit-board foils, and the corrosion can climb up the leads into the body of a diode, resistor or transistor and make it noisy and intermittent. The more heat that the glue is subjected to by the surrounding components, the more damage it will do. I have spent countless hours scraping it off of PC boards with a dental pick and replacing corroded components.
Regarding "The blue dog barks at midnight"---if all the animals along the equator were capable of flattery, then Thanksgiving & Halloween would fall on the same day.
I find it odd that Fender made a non-reverb version of several of their amps with vibrato (tremolo). To me reverb is a more "necessary" feature for an amp. Of course the Vibro Champ, never got reverb until very recently. Is the blue dog comment just to see who watched the entire video? I always do.
Why are the 30 Mfd bigger than the 47? I guess it has has to do with some sort of ratios regarding surface areas of the construction materials I guess but it’s still baffling me to me.
Lyle, do you prefer the regular rosin core Kester, or the "No-Clean"? Also, what percentage flux do you like? 1.1%, 2.2%, or 3.3%? I've been using Kester 44 series 60/40 in the .031" diameter and 3.3% flux, but it seems to leave a LOT of flux residue behind, especially when I'm soldering to PCB's.
And if I had, others would ask “why didn’t you just keep the old wire?” I showed the proper way to use the old wire. In other videos I’ve put in new bus wire. Which can be quicker.
@@j.d.saccociates3313, The next time Lyle does a question and answer streaming session, ask the group and somebody will probably come up with a local tech for you.
re your comments about legends and legendary sounds, ru-vid.com 's recent video about some of the big session players of the 60s: not only did they use studio-supplied amps ('oh, an Ampeg? OK'), they often rented guitars if they were out of town. All brand new.
I heard you say that you went through a lot of solder and boy.I bet you do go through a lot of solder.I bet you go through a shit ton of it That and resistors and capacitors a few diodes output Transformers.Main transformers chokes all that shit.
