For those who are doing trackdays and want to be more precise with your tire pressures, I would also suggest taking whatever pressure gauge you usually use (always use the same one!) and getting it checked/calibrated at any shop, or even the local tire changing station at your trackday. I was riding at 26 psi rears, concerned of going down any further. Come to find out my gauge read 3 psi lower, and therefore I was actually running a harder rear at 29 psi! Made the change and definitely felt more confident at the more aggressive cornes. Cheers!
Reading some good reviews where the various gauges have been checked and rated for accuracy also helps! But yes as they get older check them against a known officially calibrated gauge, don’t assume you less local shop / tyre place necessarily has their gauges checked and certified unless you ask them!
Very nice! The tip about the slack changing once you've tightened the axle is something I discovered the hard way (765rs here). Also chain slack is crucial with quickshifters, I've found, insofar as a loose chain makes for dodgy QS shifts. Very nice, pls keep em coming
That was a very highly informative video I’ve learned quite a bit and had my eyes glued to the screen through the end Thanks for making it I can’t wait for more.
Well, that was way better than watching Emmerdale! And I can now ride to the Woolpack without totalling Speedy in the car park. Been riding for 47 years, but every day’s a learning day. More of this stuff please 😎👍
I thought this was going to be crap but I was wrong. Although I consider most of these things, I never really considered why. A most enjoyable, informative watch. Cheers!
YEEESSS ! Currently own 2 of these bikes and there is no better road bike for the money. Every one I've owned has started with Throttle slack adjusted Clutch slack adjusted Rearsets to my preference Suspension set to factory And a host of basic things that are always neglected please feel free to show more of your daytona Superfan
@@BikeWorldTVshow ahh im pleased. I really love these bikes just changed my fuel pump for the first time. Done starter motor before horrible job !! Front clock mount and so much more 😆 proper capable road bike for 3k struggle to find anything to replace it so I just keep buying them haha 😄
@@BikeWorldTVshow that's fantastic 😃 if im honest I did own an 899 panigale before my current gen 1 675. And I had to sell up.... I could afford the bike but my god the running cost was unreal! £1200-1500 @15k miles for the desmo service 🤮 im really looking forward to the next daytona vid now 🤘👍
On the chain slack - it really can do damage. A mate of mine when I was young had a CB250 as a first bike and went around it tightening everything up . Of course he didn't know that the chain didn't need to be locked solid so he just pulled it up until it was as tight as he could get it. Then he took it out and as he went over a dip in the road he thought the chain snapped. I went to get him and it was soon obvious it wasn't the chain but the output shaft which had sheared. He then scrapped the bike and never worked on his own bike again.
Chris. This is a very good video. Lots of good info for people who do their own maintenance but are not mechanics When i was training to be a mech we used an acronym....P.O.W.E.R. petrol,oil,water,electrics,rubber. Easy to remember. Great channel mate.
Excellent! Picked up some great tips from this vid! Love the old sock trick (never seemed to have enough hands to keep the wheel pushed forward doing up the axel nut and ended up slackening and retightening when the Slack changed when checked as a result! Tips on checking lock to lock after adjusting throttle or clutch, crucial, not had to adjust my 2021 CBR650R cables yet but thanks! Finally Torque Wrench use. Don’t double click the torque wrench. You will over torque the nut doing this. Torque wrenches work correctly by slowly and evenly (no jerking) increasing the pressure on the bar until it clicks, once! Any jerkiness or giving it an extra click to make sure will over tighten the nut. It’s an oft quoted myth you should double click it, read the instructions that came with your torque wrench and stop believing what you hear from mates (or even sometimes mechanics who should no better)! Another common mistake is lubricating nuts and bolts before fitting and torquing! Unless the manual quotes a bolt should be lubricated with xxxxxx don’t do it, if you live a bold that should be checked dry you will achieve the stated torque without achieving the required tension on the bolt to hold the parts together correctly!
Good video! would be cool to see a suspension and ergonomics setup vid for road and track, I know it is very subjective to rider preference, but a how-to vid on setup for rider weight and a good start point would be useful.
The basics that all riders should know. Shaft drive riders might be smug over the lack of need to adjust the chain and rear sprocket but us chain drive riders are smug in the knowledge that we are loosing less from the engine to the rear tyre compared to them shafties. Horses for courses. Also, do oil, oil filter, air filters, change out brake fluid and maybe even coolant. Fun to work on your bike and even more to ride it afterwards.
even though my Ducati is only a sport tourer and 22 yrs old, i find that it is super sensitive to tyres,pressures and suspension settings. I've had it 15 yrs but after the first year i found the sweet spot of front and year compression/rebound/preload and never touch them now. Another good tip is to set the TIRE manufacturers pressures, not the motorcycle recommended ones. I have gone thru all the upgrades of Battlaxe tires from Bt 16> S20>S21 and now S22. They give me so much confidence especially piling on those two 320mm Brembos whilst cranked other in a bend when I've gone in too hot. @ 70yrs old, "too hot" happens a lot more often 🐔🐔🐔.
This was a great video, thanks. I’d like you to upload a video about the front wheel and particular how much should the front brakes drag/bind. How much should the front wheel free spin.
It's not the mileage after nine years it's the heat cycles mate. Tire durometer rating is got to be like a hockey puck! 🤦♂️😂 Myth: cables do not stretch!
Thanks Chris for the detailed and helpful review for things sometimes overlooked. I think it’s great you can put together practical how to’s like this as well as get your elbow down on a 300hp H2R, what a weapon! Although I will say I wasn’t a fan of your sunglasses back then... 😂
Look up checking rear wheel alignment with string! Can be done accurately without any special tools or lasers! Just some nice string tied around the back of the rear wheel and laying across and just touching the rear tyre in two places and taken forward either side of the front wheel will show and magnify even a tiny misalignment!
Hey, look ! A Daytona 675 ! Remember when Triumph used to build this and the 955i ? Will they ever find their way and build something similar not for the black market value of a Human Liver ?
Whenever a rear wheel is out of an ally swingarm, loosen the adjuster bolts well off and apply your favourite anti seize to the threads Coppaslip whatever. Common as hell for those adjusters to seize in there solid, at the most inopportune moment....
Sound advice. MSF uses the TCLOCS method to inspect your bike before a ride. This is particularly important if your bike sits for any duration (like yours). And like your advice, TCLOCS is free.
Very helpful! I would say if there is time, follow up with brakes (lines, pads, fluid), maybe some critical bolts, and the lights (apparently, not having a working headlamp is quite dangerous). Oil, coolant, too? Cheers
Just my tuppence worth. On the chain adjust, look at the flats on the bolt head and turn each side the same amount e.g. one full flat half a flat etc; that way is very accurate and both sides will move exactly the same distance because the bolt thread will rotate the same amount.
CHAINS: if you're an each n every day rider, you can reduce chain stretch, and need for adjustment by fitting a Scott Oiler. they take a short while to dial-in but when it's set, Scott Oiler is your chain's very best buddy. with all the tech available today, i'm surprised manufacturers don't fit them as standard.
@@peterkocziha1528 I mean if you’re installing a new ABS pump something’s seriously gone wrong 😂then yes there is a difference In that rare occurrence and you most likely won’t be able to do it by yourself, only a dealership will.
I bought the Lightech chain adjusters for my Gixxer. Pricey, but makes adjusting a doddle. Still have to go back and re-do sometimes after re-tightening the axle nut though.
A tip for bleeding your brakes. Take out bleed nipples on calipers and put PTFE tape around the threads. Don't cover the bottom of the nipple just to the bottom of the thread. When bleeding brakes now just crack the nipple until you have a slight resistance on the lever. The tape stops you having to open and close the nipple as it stops air getting in. It's a great way to get a really firm lever
Here's one for you - how to clean the fuel system out after its been sat all winter and the ethanol infused garbage which you thought was petrol has turned into a gooey mess.
OK, so for the chain inspection I can have my bike on a stand, it's enough to have just a flat surface. When I bought mine I was not sure to put it on a side stand or I can use one for the wheel. You showed with the wheel one so alright.
Logical, but actually, not worth it, according to Norbar. They reckon that you are likely to cause more wear to the tool. The spring does not sag over time (unlike - say - a constantly moving suspension spring). At work I am responsible for 200 preset torque tools. They get checked weekly and we work to 5%. Aircraft specs are 10%. I very rarely see one fail unless it is set really fine - below 0.5Nm. So I wouldn't bother.
Many, many great bikes made for many decades. Things have changed, but when you dial them in, you get the same result: a big, fat grin. I've got an '04 and an '09. Both a joy.
Also, I'm severely OCD about measurements so I take a vernier caliper to the rear swingarm to measure the rear wheel alignment. The manufacturer dots are too widely spaced.
when i comes to finding out how old your tyre is you shown the wrong thing, its the dot youre looking for 'DOT HN7U 3908' 39th week of the year 2008 that tyre would be if it had that code on it. Edit: as you can see if the video at 9:46 your tyre has a date of 2816 :)
@@BikeWorldTVshow I saw that video already and it is awesome, truly! But can you do a more specific video related to tire pressure, for example? I do use tire warmers, but I still don´t understand the what pressure that I need to use in that case, I mean, before going to the track and after coming from the track... Thanks!
Well spotted! Had a gut feeling something was amiss there - just re-checked the numbers and the tyres are actually from 2016, same year the S21 was launched. My bad, off to get my eyesight checked now.....
You didn't say whether the chain slack should be measured with the bike's weight on the wheel, or on axle stands as your bike is. It makes a difference.
Good watch I've gotta do more checking , question do you carry a repair kit for your tyres when out on the road in case of punctures as I have been looking at the different ones available .If you carry one which would you say is the best one cos I am hear different opinions on this and I plan on getting one for this seasons riding . I also plan on getting a little 12 volt compressor too Cheers : )
Hey Malcom I do, I have one of the little BMW puncture kits and also use the cheap versions off eBay and to be fair I’ve had good results with both. Motohansa make a really nice kit that has everything you need, it’s not a cheap option but definitely a nice one.
Hello, Chris from the USA, Atlanta Georgia! My question is on the 2020 KTM 1290 Super Duke R. I purchased it just last fall and also the "Tech Pack " add-on. My dilemma it seems is understanding the slipper adjustments on the TFT display. Selecting a mode and say it comes up on the screen as 4 but maybe I want to change that to six or 3 ( there are 1 to 10 to choose from ). How is it done because I was never shown how to operate this function and it really is quite frustrating. Thanks, MaC
One thing i effing hate about my V4 pani????? No way (without buying spacers from eBay ) to adjust throttle slack/play…. Yes i get its RBW but surely with all their squillions, Ducati eat all can work out an adjustment on the fly….
good motorcycle learning video, although it seems basic things, they are extremely important, both for safety reasons and also in order to make your motorcycle ok and more durable in relation to the various components and accessories described here in the video,.. Even I, who have some mechanical experience that already allows me to make some revisions or small adjustments, watching this video I also learned something curious, the sock trick, because yes, we stretch the chain and then after tightening it, it can get too much stretched, of course, in my case I check, and sometimes I unscrew it and do it again, because the chain must always have a little slack, ..the pressure of the tires, seems banal, but it's something we should see at least least 1 time a month,... and I speak against myself, because sometimes I don't do it either,.. anyway, it's small things, m the ones that make a huge difference...
have to disagree ok the bendy type gauges, I've had 2 of the Draper type, lost the front at hall bends at cadwell. on investigation my guage was reading 10.psi more than two others. replaced with RaceX analogue guage 👌
Ooh that’s a long way out! I’ve got two of the Venhill ones and an Oxford one, all analogue. Had the venhill ones calibrated by Dunlop and they were within two psi.
