Inkstitch - from image to embroidery file with Tux 

Lol. Thank you 😆👍 You quite literally made me lol. Had I need drinking a sip of coffee it would have probably spewed. Lol

Thank you

Thank you

That's cool. 👍 Thank you for the compliments 🙂

Thank you ❤️👍

Thank you 😊

Thank you

Awesome. So glad I could help 🙂. I feel you there, my introduction to inkstitch was also my introduction to inkscape. I've had to learn both at the same time and I'm still learning. Happy stitching

Thank you. If you have questions asking the way get free to ask

Thank you ❤️

Awesome. Thank you

Thank you

Thank you

Awesome, thank you!

Also do you have a video explaining the stitch counts, how to maximize , I did a name and it seems like it stitched a lot! What are good parameters?

@@MrsLPerez I have this video which shows me playing around with inkstitch params settings quite a bit. It may help. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Zen4ASsrudM.html

Thank you

Thank you

Thank you ☺️

Wonderful!

Thank you

Glad I could help 👍

Thank you

Thank you ☺️

Awesome 👍. Thank you 😊

Sweet. Thank you 😊

Awesome, glad I could help.

You're very welcome!

Thank you

@@LowTechLinux I ended up having to do brightness cut off in trace bitmap due to the colors turning out patchy after I did the color tract bitmap, but I after I did the brightness cut off trace bitmap, I selected break apart, and then colored each part of the design separately, then moved the remaining big black shadow of my design shape behind my now colored design to have a black outline. Now, I can't figure out how to make it so that when I do embroider, it will not have to make the big, black shadow behind the design first before stitching the rest, is there any way you could help? I'm not sure if I was able to describe it well

@@livtobcreations That can be tricky. You might be better off completely removing the black background.... However, it can be done using 'difference'. Here's a shot at how difference works. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CkCVSYErqpc.html (Sorry about the staticy mic, it has since been fixed.)

@@LowTechLinux thank you, that helps a ton! :)

Lol. Thank you 😊

Thank you, that would be interesting me thinks. :)

Thank you

After you do a trace, you should follow it by doing a break apart. Extensions > Inkstitch > Fill tools > Break apart fill objects. That will create object layers that you can work with. Also, if you do a muiltiple scan trace, that will create layers too. Still do the break apart afterwards though.

@@LowTechLinux Appreciate it! Thank you so much! Have a good day :)

@@LowTechLinux Hello again, for some reason my inkscape did not create more layers. Did I do something wrong? I even followed all of the steps in the video. I just dont know what I did wrong.

@@filpino234 first thing to check is make sure you're looking at the right layers. Inkscape can be confusing in this aspect. There's layer > layers and there's object > object > layers. To be sure, on the top menu, go to Object > Objects (doing this from memory so I might be slightly off). When you bring up Object > objects, that window will also list layers. That's the one you want. Let me know if this helps.

@@LowTechLinux Yes, this did work! Ahh thank you so much!!! I really appreciate it! Have a great day!

Drawing board? Hmmm. Do you mean something like the wacom one drawing pad and pen? I have one of those but rarely ever use it. On certain things it makes it much nicer, like doing the near infinite lines of pet hair digitizing. I think it's really what you're comfortable with and what works best in your case.

Thank you

You have to install the extension manually. If you're on windows 10 ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9SoGm4lUr7w.html For Mac inkstitch.org/docs/install/

Hmm...I don't think so, I'll have a look and see if I can find anything on that

I just move the embroidery file (in our case .dst) to the usb stick. Once you plug that stick into the embroidery machine it should find it on it's own. If not, there's an issue, usually a larger hoop design than the machine can accommodate.

@@LowTechLinux thank you! I used your video and took notes! I inherited 2 embroidery machines from my mother and I'm trying to make dance dresses for my Irish dancers

Not really sure. My first guess would be that your image is too large. As a test I would do the same image you're having issues with but size it down to crazy small like 2 inch by 2 inch (50mm x 50mm). Then try the break apart again. If it works then the program/plugin is working properly and it's either sized too large or is very intricate and It's having to do a lot of thinking. Let me know if this works.

You can send screenshots to dale@lowtechlinux.com. If you have a lot of objects in your file the jump stitches can get out of hand. If you're REALLY lucky your embroidery machine will see the 'trim thread after sewing this object' command. I would try that just to see if it works. We have one machine that it works, and one machine that it doesn't work, both are brother embroidery machines. Select all objects then go Extensions > Inkstitch > Commands > Attach commands to selected objects and in the list select "trim thread after sewing this object. I'd start with a simple 2 object design to test, both objects the same color. Attach the trim command to the first object. If your machine trims the thread between the first object and the second object you're golden :) About objects, to get to the objects list it's Object > Objects. That should bring up your objects list (they will say layers, which can be confusing since they also have a layers panel). In the objects list will be your objects. Important note: The sewing order is from bottom up, so your bottom most object will be stitched first. Sometimes you can move these around so the order is next closest object gets stitched next and in some cases this will cut down dramatically on jump threads that need to be cut by hand. Let me know if this helps any

@@LowTechLinux Thank you for your quick reply! It took my by surprise. It worked! For the first time I got lucky. I no longer have so many thread trails. The problem now is the motif is so dense, it breaks my thread. There should be a way to control that, I just have to find it. It still bothers me that it sews out so randomly. It does a little bit of a T, then goes across the page and sews a little bit of an F, etc. I think I can use the bevel tool, (that's the cut tool, right?) and place each letter/word/line on a separate layer. I would think it would sew each layer together. Fortunately, my friend doesn't use a lot of different colors so it's relatively easy to keep those together. One last question - Is there a manual somewhere that deals with the stitch portion of the program? It would be so nice to be able to look up some of this stuff, like where do I control the density. I have to say, so far I like Inkscape. I bought Drawings years ago and still can't get it to work. I've come a lot further on Inkscape in three days than I ever did in Drawings. Again, thank you for your quick reply.

You can change the density in the params tab. I have a video for that here. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Zen4ASsrudM.html Some of your density problems could be overlapping objects. This can be fixed by doing a 'difference' command in inkscape. I show a simple example of that in this video at about the 1:50 mark. I apologize for the staticy mic. It went into the trash shortly after this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-CkCVSYErqpc.html

@@LowTechLinux Thank you so much for your quick replies. I have everything working now. The problem is that it won't save a .PES file. I get an error message"lib/extensions/base.py:53: DeprecationWarning: inkex.eltree was removed. use "from lxml import etree". Is there a list of what these error messages mean somewhere? That way, we don't have to bother ya'll.

@@audreysundstrom8633 when you do troubleshoot objects does it return "all shapes are valid"? Even with the depricated message it should still save. Large files take a pretty long time to save when saving as .pes. If you keep having this error I'd suggest you open an issue report at the github repo. That's where the minds behind the extension reside and the best shot at them seeing it. Lots of other very smart people in there for inkstitch that may also be able to help. github.com/inkstitch/inkstitch/issues I searched for that specific error in their issues log and didn't find anything.

Shouldn't be more than a few minutes. If you close it before it starts rendering and there's an error it will pop up after you close it. If you close it before it starts rendering and there isn't an error then usually it means you didn't wait long enough for the render to start.

Outlines are "simple lines" that can be auto converted to satin stitches. Best practice is to duplicate the object. Set first one to fill no stroke. Set the second one to no fill, stroke about 1 mm or more. Extensions > inkstitch > Tools: Satin > convert line to satin.

You're welcome! :)

would you send your svg file to me so I may have a look at it, dale@lowtechlinux.com

The tool bar on the right is propagated by opening toolbars. Object > objects File > Document properties Object > Fill and stroke Those are the ones I use the most.

The short answer is there is no magic trick to make it work. The longer answer is an embroidery file in its simplest form is only a series of stitch points (x, y coordinates) and commands (stitch, stop, trim, change colors). Every embroidery file type contains these. Some file types contain color information (the more modern ones like pes, pec, etc). Older file types like dst contain no color information other than change color command. An embroidery machine that displays correct colors on screen do so in a limited scope. Chameleon green will just be displayed as green in other words. Machines that use dst and other files that don't contain color information have a default list of colors that it goes through for each color change command. If you have an image that has blue sky, green grass, white snowman, the default color list might display a red sky, blue grass (not to be confused with bluegrass lol), and a green snowman. The best thing to do is do the PDF printout of color sets. Then you have a list you can reference at each color change stop.

Thanks for getting back to me! And my machine takes pes and I’m just learning how to do all the things needed to make my imagine into pes format lol. I’ll have to keep practicing and playing around with things. Thanks again great video😄

Sorry for the late reply. The menus across the top starting with 'File, Edit, View, Layer, Object....' Stop right there. click that object menu and click the first entry that says "Objects". That should give you your objects layers.

Too small to make a good embroidery fill

In this video I think it was inkstitch 1.29.1 and it's running on Linux, Manjaro KDE Plasma. I currently use the current release 2.2.0, still on Manjaro-kde.

Good Morning down in Tenn! Thanks for the info on the OS and version. Question.. What kind of hardware are you running with ? a DELL with a 2Terabyte hard drive and 64 Gigs of ram ? I want a system that is NOT going to crawl through this application and continue to hang up ...is the reason for the questions - My system is running like a dog on a hot summer day - SLOW

If I remember correctly, I have an AMD FX x8 4ghz processor, AMD rx570 video card, 16g ram. Running manjaro Linux, and Wayland video server from a 2tb ssd. Honestly I'm starting to itch for some upgrades. The FX processor is starting to show it's age. I'd like to have a rizen, would really like the thread ripper, but that requires I upgrade mb, memory, video card, etc, and it's just out of reach for me right now.

Make sure you're in objects, not in layers. From the menu at the top, Object > Objects.

You can set the params to change density. However, I'd be more inclined to say it's overlapping layers. Have a look at this video to see what I mean. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-myUhkDpWmjc.html

@@LowTechLinux Yes. I watched that video last week. The design that I'm talking about has only one color and no overlapping elements.

@@ricnyc2759 now I'd say you can change the params. Usually the defaults are pretty good though. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Zen4ASsrudM.html If you'd like me to have a look at it, send the svg file to me at dale@lowtechlinux.com

@@LowTechLinux I'll watch it! Thank you!

Click on file > save as. Then change the .SVG to .pes (or .dst, whatever your machine needs). Make sure you save it as a .SVG first. Then if you need to edit the design you edit the .SVG, not the embroidery file.

@@LowTechLinux thank you very much!!

You could do a break apart and if it breaks apart as needed you can select the different layers to be the color you need. Or you can try doing a multiple scan > colors and make the numbers high (like 10). In theory the higher the number the more layers of color it can pick up. If you go too high it might lock up inkscape so increase just a couple at a time. Again, it might not find all the colors, but if it finds all the layers you may be able to set them to the color you need.

There are many reasons that would cause trace bitmap to fail. What version of inkscape are you on? What is the extension of the image you're trying to trace? If you are willing to share, send the image to me at dale@lowtechlinux.com so I can have a look at it and try it here. If I can get it to work I'll send you whatever I do back to you.

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-UwSCfeLI6Ts.html

Did you exclude inkstitch in defender? Do you have any other antivirus program running (macafee, malwarebytes, avast, norton)? You will have to exclude inkstitch in any antivirus you are running. If it has tagged inkstitch as an offender you will also have to remove inkstitch from quarantine. iirc defender>history>quarantine> and I think it's restore (sorry, don't use windows much).

In your objects layer select the object you want it to stop at, then select extensions > inkstitch > commands > attach commands to selected objects.

When you update the different options does it just not show anything? I need a little more detail on what you've tried and what the outcome is that isn't expected.

@@LowTechLinux I was getting an error that lines overlap and wouldn’t move to next stage

Sounds like it was working honestly. After you trace bitmap make sure to remove your original image leaving only the bitmap. Then select your bitmap and break apart. Extensions > inkstitch > Fill tools > Break apart fill objects. The run a troubleshoot objects to see where you're at.

@@LowTechLinux Thanks figured out what step I missed now that I have the pes file now I’m trying to figure out how to turn it into an appliqué file

@@mixedchocolite Awesome, good job. Design your work for applique before making it a .pes. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-inNYb5i1RjE.html

Could be many things at play. If you're image is very large it can lock it up. Also, Try running troubleshoot to see if anything jumps out at you.

@@LowTechLinux After tracing bitmap and running troubleshoot. I get warnings for “Unconnected shapes & border crossing itself.” So this could be why I can’t break apart field objects. Any solution? Thanks for responding.

Well, no, unconnected is what break apart is supposed to fix. What size image are you working with?

@@LowTechLinux 219 kB is the size.

My bad for not asking the right question. What's the dimensions of the image? Either inches or millemeters.

I no longer have it. Recent accidental hard drive erasure. Probably could reproduce it though.

lowtechlinux.com/2023/04/05/new-digitized-tux-w-v-2-2-0/

RU-vid videos have a pause and rewind function in case you didn’t know. Even a playback speed setting so you can take it at your own pace👍🏼

Awesome. Thank you