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Hey to help your resin pours go faster why don’t you “shotgun” the resin jugs like beer cans to help them drain faster just put a hole in the bottom when your pouring it so the air can vent it
10:15 Maths is hard! Simple perception is also hard! Prepping for resin is also hard (for those that dont know what they are doing). Realising really thin plastic sheet thats unsupported cant hold 20kilos! Is also hard!
guys, woodworker here. For resin pours, you first BRUSH a coat of resin on all your to-be-filled sections of the workpiece, so it becomes solid (not cured) and stops any leaks. I'm on 1:46 yet, but you don't need aditional products to get a perfect finish with just the resin you're pouring, it's just a matter of sealing it first. Love you work, keep it up
Every surface that's not the plastic edging put on as a barrier will be porous and likely to leak under the weight of the liquid resin that looks to be very easy flowing when they poured it in. If the heat warped the outside it'll could also be playing havoc with the foam under the terrain.
also MDF boards with Tyvek tape to "seal" in the pour, or plastic coated wood covered in mould release spray - plexiglass warps as you've found out - great for "cinema shots" but bad for end results/more issues.
That's one of the coolest things any human have ever built I still remember when you were scrapping, sanding and assembling the WarLords lol happy days lads .
Amazing work as always. I am sorry you guys ran into so many unexpected issues. When the plexiglass warps like that to you recommend just finishing the pour then reframing and pouring again to fill the gap or do you try to manually fix it with like UV resin?
The warping is due to way to much resin in one pour resulting in to much heat being generated, if the warping is severly impacting the finished thing, i would just reframe. If not, just keep on pouring. The lucky part was, it wasnt so much resin that the heat made the poured layer cloudy (which can happen), because in that case its game over or a feature =)
Guys, the amount of hard work you’ve poured into this is phenomenal. Huge, huge respect and admiration for taking on such a gigantic challenge and seeing it through. Also, Learn Swedish With Squidmar when? :-)
i would have made some small pexiglass boxes and hide them in the back on the shore line. this will make the diorama lighter because you use less resin. cheaper, because well...less resin. and once the resin is poured around it you should never see the void through the tinted resin.
Just going into this video, I was thinking, “If this resin pour DOESN’T have leaks, overheating, a blown out budget, time delays, and grown Swedes reduced almost to tears, then I don’t want to know about it!” Thank you, boys, for giving me everything I wanted in the resin-pour vid!
I've seen woodworkers do something for resin tables to help prevent leaks. Mix the resin up and leave it out for a few hours until it thickens up a ton and is really slow moving. This helps it seal openings on its own because it just fills the spaces instead of leaking out. Just a thought, idk how well it would work for an initial pour on a diorama but it might be worth a try to help prevent leaks.
That or use a brush to apply a thin coat of it all round, it will go solid without there being enough resin to actually go through any gaps, thus sealing it with the exact resin you plan to use
This is really bad advice. The higher the viscosity, the more air bubbles will be in trapped in the resin. You also don't want to move a polymer that is curing as it destroys the chemical bonds that try to form in the material. You don't fix a problem by creating a new one to solve the first. Make sure it's properly sealed and pour the resin as intended by the manufacturer. Do it right or not at all.
@@svendsved4166 I was thinking of all the misery I've watched Blacktail go through, and that guy has done big pours countless times. They certainly could have learned by watching his videos. As for leaks... Why not just test it with water first then let it dry for a couple days? Also, if you're investing in $2000 worth of resin, surely you can rent a vacuum vessel to get out the bubbles.
perhaps doing something similar to a 'Slush casting' method with a low viscosity resin would help give everything a skin before you're primary pours in future? , , , i havent done anything on this magnitude before but in the presence of heat most foams contract a tiny amount and that could attribute to the gaps that sapped away resin. Also if it's watertight, could you not fill the area with water first to see if it drains? Problem solvings a beeeeeech xD
First part I agree with, second part not so much.. drying the diorama in a timely fashion (assuming it doesn't get damaged by either the water or drying method) sounds like a nightmare, painting the foam in someone more watertight from the get-go sounds easier tbh.
Great video! The challenges you overcame were unfortunate, to say the least... Maybe next time you attempt a large pour like this, you could try to pre-seal the underlying srtucture with something to create a leak-proof membrane beneath the finished surface? As well as what @edinnuir7518 had already suggested with the slush-casting method - twice the preventative measure??
I bet it would be absolute *hell* to edit together, but I bet once this whole ordeal reaches its finalé, you have enough content to put together a fabulous like 1hr30 documentary style dealy about getting there from start to finish.
@@SomeKindofWizard me too, but not for work, it would not be something I could leave in the background like a normal podcast, plus I'd like to give it full attention
Not a huge fan of resin water, I reckon it would be better if there was a gradient from dark translucent bottom to light transparent top. Keep some bubbles to keep some of the life, also there's two hulking robots thrashing around - the water should be all over the place!
I would've done a collab with an experienced resin channel. Props to you for doing the research and hard work, but experience is so important with something so difficult like this. Also the blue just seems a little too intense, as it looks like your amazing painting is harder to see. Other than that it looks good.
There were it. The moment. 12:15 "we´re never doing this again" The line that will be used as parody in future, maybe a few years, when squidmar makes an even more insane project
I absolutely love you guys, but I absolutely dont understand why you make these very basic mistakes. You clearly have knowledge about resin, but seem to missing some key part about pouring these amounts. 1# Build a box. I understand for the video "plexiglas" is preferred, so we can see stuff, but these walls where very thin to begin with. For these big pours there is massive amounts of heat and weight pushing outwards. Why are you using resin to glue the boards? There is special glue for that that fuse acrylics. 2# The resin: I see absolutely no markers on the sides to indicate the height of each layer. You are pouring (its seems) volume and not layer heights. You talk about 24 hours to harden the resin, that means you could only pour 13mm max. Next to that, cranking up the heat is an absolute no-go. You have such an wonderfull followers, and you could have asked but the choice you make are baffling. Why not brush resin on the COMPLETE SURFACE where you intent to pour? This would have prevented so much leakage.
As soon as you found the first leak I would have used some of the liquid resin already poured to create a resin coat on as much of the diorama that you intend to cover with resin as possible, a thin coat won't have the same pressure behind it to leak and can clog up most leak holes
I love the magnitude of this :-) I still think it's a shame that there is no evidence on the seabed, indicating how heavy and furious these things are. They should be well deep into the sand, and there should be a lot of sand swirling up because of movement. When you undertake something this huge it's a shame about those realism details
I marathoned the whole Warlord Titan series up until this episode (looking forward to the next update). I have to say, Damn what a journey. The whole team is incredibly talented. All the painting, humor, creative ideas and awesome video editing. Very inspiring! Keep it up, much love from Hova, Sweden!
As impressive as this is in scope, there are multiple factors that absolutely were against you, everything from the hydrostatic pressure which builds up as you pour more and more liquid depth, to the exponential rise in exothermically generated heat from the sheer amount of resin curing all at once, and the intrinsic difficulty in resin pours into porous and unsealed environments! Any one of these factors would make it difficult, but all three at once really made complications a near certainty. If you ever do this kind of resin pour project at this scale again, initial prep work to completely underseal it is definitely necessary, but doing a lot more smaller pours is definitely the way forward.
Great job guys, might be getting more and more expensive but it's worth it for charity! Also, swedish time: Kul att höra lite svenska, av nån anledning hade jag för mig att ni var i uppsala men låter som ni är längre norr ut :P
How come you guys put all this awesome work into your videos and you only film in 1080p? The phone in your pocket will record higher bitrate content than whatever camera you are using. And if anyone would benefit from 4k it's a channel that's trying to showcase painted models. It just seems odd you are doing 1080p content.
It's crazy they didn't think to reinforce the sides with 2x4 or something. I was thinking it might warp due to the weight and then boom, they're back with warped and leaking plexiglass. Also maybe reducing the dye density on account of the sheer amount of resin they're pouring.
Feel like everything should have been sealed with some kind of varnish or something beforehand. Wonder how mixing the different types of resins is going to affect the appearance, long-term. Man, seeing all that artwork covered up. Definitely feels like way too much tinting in the resin just from the initial pours.
Why not use regular glass instead of plexiglass? Glass doesnt warp. You should have asked some guy who makes aquariums to make it for you. Even for plexiglass, the one you used seems too thin. Engineered drama?
Oh no the resin did exactly what people were warning you guys about back when you showed the concept /s While i definitely appreciate most of the craftsmanship you guys put into this, this whole project is a classic case of " you were so obsessed with what you wanted to do, that you never stopped to think if and how you should do it ". Like i definitely applaud the skill, but the longer this series goes on, the more it feels like a dick measuring contest under the guise of charity. I cant really put my finger on it, but it all feels....icky? I used to really enjoy your vids, but something has been feeling off for a long time now
Wouldn't the best thing to do is an initial 0.5cm slaver all over the surface to both look for gaps and to potentially block them up with that initial pour before pouring a bucket's worth of weight onto the diorama, all the weight just putting greater pressure on those gaps?
Those walls looked way too thin, not surprised they warped with the heat, I know that during the curing process the resin can climb up to 100℃ and above
Hmm not sure this was smart haha think it looked better without the water tbh. No ripples or splashes kills the sense of motion they had they look like they're stuck in ice now
Yeah, this is kind of the problem I was thinking they'd run into with the pour. There should be bubbles and movement in the water from the Titan falling into it. But, it's calm like a sheet of glass.
What I love about you guys is that you show us everything, from success to complete failure while constantly pushing the painting game. Truly fantastic to follow this series! Stor eloge från en nyligen miniatyrfrälst!
Next Warlord titan diorama or anything that comes close to that will be in the mountains, sky or desert but atleast far away from any kind of sea or body of water 🤣
You guys are the reason why I got into miniture painting! I have so much faith that this project is going to go viral there just to much detail for this to be considered anything less than a masterpiece, you guys are killing this!
When they came back after the weekend and said it went a bit wrong with warping the plexiglass even, I thought it looked really cool, looks like small waves on the surface
I recently saw a brilliant and cheap solution to use in stead of deep pours. Just fill most of the space with foam on top of clingfilm, then only pour the top in resin, so you get a kind of plate. Remove the foam and then surround with plexiglass, looks great, has higher transparency and less weight. (if you bond the pour to the plexiglass the transition will be less visible.) The idea was by WaW creators in this video. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-B8WqNWzPkVU.html
This diorama legitimately could be priced at about €15k - €20k when you account for models, resin, materials and labour. 😅 If it was to be sold you’d probably get considerably more. Really just crazy when you stop and think about it. You guys are honestly amazing, keep being awesome guys. ❤
“Hey, let’s try another resin pour!” “WHAT?! Do you remember what happened last time? And the time before that? And that?” “Don’t worry about it. We got this.” AND THEY SHALL KNOW NO FEAR. 😂
The issue would be getting a smooth finish on the outside because they're eventually going to remove the plexiglass. If done in wood, it would be a lot of extra work (not to mention resin dust in the air).
I think looking at wood working resin makes would have helped here, super cool environments to mitigate the heating (cooled shop and a shop fan pointed over the table), using thickened resin and painting the foam with UV resin or a PVA sealer back when it was in the pink stages could have sealed it right up.
looking at that I was like "this resine is going to be so heavy, why not reinforcing the plexi with an exterior wood frame to prevent it from colapsing ?" and than I saw the plexi warped INSIDE from the heat so... yeah, my idea would not have been usefull ^^
I wish y'all weren't having so many issues with this, but it makes me feel so much better about the resin leaks I've had in my own studio! Cannot wait to see the final diorama!
Warhammer can be problematic in so many ways. Even as tongue-in-cheek as it is, it invites too many of the worst kind of people. You guys have worked so single mindedly on this crazy project, and have shown so much heart in making this to help others, that it's not just enough to say you're my favorite 'Hammer-tubers but that you're the type of people we need to lead the hobby. Keep doing what you're doing! You're an inspiration as hobbyists, and as all around cool dudes. Congrats on a terrifying resin pour and I can't wait to see what comes next!
Love you guys and your work. I was on pins and needles the whole time and had my figures crossed. I am glad you used UV resin to help seal everything and from what I saw it looks like the pour went well. Can’t wait to see the next video!!!!
just a thought, I have seen car mechanics use a liquid gasket to stop oil leaking out of engines. i don't know what its called but it might work to stop resin leaks.
There anything stopping you from coating the bottom of the diorama in a silicone based weather sealant in the early stages of construction for these big pour based dioramas? I feel like a layer of that above the wood/electronics but beneath the foam would do wonders.
Been both looking forward to and dreading this video, and hah! I use the exact same green stuff UV resin and the light, though mine didn't come with an inline button and I had to build it in, this is gonna be an exciting watch!
Let's boost the algorithm boys! You guys kick ass and the amount of money and effort you have poured into this project for charity is admirable. Thanks for all you do.
Just a quick note: If you have an EXOthermic reaction, which produces heat you need to WITHDRAW heat to accelerate the reaction: A+B-->C+HEAT....IF the heat is removed the reaction will accelerate,creating more heat but faster product C...just saying...
After last time i would have thought you two would nail it this time ^^ I like this long series, but i miss some of the short painting guides, still wanna see you and Lucas battle it off on map you made with two armys, the loser could be punish with 24 hr painting ;) 2000 $!!! SHIT BIG SPENDER SQUID$$$
20L? Even just eyeballing that model via youtube it looks far larger than that. Big gaps in their that could easily take a 5L bottle of milk, for instance, let alone all the little spaces. Meanwhile the whole thing looks like, what, 80x50x50cm or 200L? And at most 3/4s of it is filled with the foam and models, so that's still 50L.
Greetings, in the next projects that have to do with resin you could ask for a partnership with some company that produces it. Try the prochima, they have a whole modeling sector and maybe ...
Quite bold to pour $2000 of unpredictable burning leaky chemicals, that on top of everything else might just decide to set opaque, all over months of work. You are, frankly, nuts.
I wonder if anyone else knows where that “no, no, no…” in the beginning comes from. That is Mr MauLer watching batgirl (I think) on EFAP :) now… great vid, love this diorama :)
I'm sorry I didn't think of this sooner, but for NEXT TIME, why don't you build some UV lights into the diorama. That way it will help cure your quick fixes, and look cool too
This was fun at the beginning but quickly turned into "how much money can i throw at this ?" There's a dollar sign in 1/3 videos you've produced the lasts 6-9 months...
this is de best diorama in the world??? Yes, of course, both work hard and put "some" blood, sweat and tears, amazing job guys, I'm really enjoying the warlord titan series. Keep doing this
I want to buy this Diorama … my wife will kill me and I don’t have any miniatures but this is so freaking cool and awesome. The best piece of Art I have ever seen. I don’t know if there will be an auction, lottery or a price bet, but I think this is worth 25-50k
You need to watch several Woodworkers do resin pours on river tables and other projects. I could tell from the start your rig for the pour wasn't going to work, at least not without many adjustments. Even the guys that do $30,000 slab tables have problems with resin, and it's all they do for a living.
With stuff like this when you aren't 100% sure the bottom won't leak: do a very thin pour first. Thin enough that it won't leave a visible layer from the side. That way you will coat the bottom seams and ground, putting down a layer to work of from for the next layers. If your bottom has a hole somewhere, with a thick layer after curing you will see either a funnel from resin leaking away or loads of big bubbles from air escaping. Been there done that. Also, deep pour, slower curing resins exist and they work well, but take more time.
