I sure hope the LED drivers in the light assembly are RF quiet! Tune into a weak S1-S2 repeater and activate each light in turn... see if receive is affected when the LEDs are active. Modern vehicles are full of RF noise generators, EVs are a whole new ball game!
I just got my Lightning a month ago, and just my Technician License a week ago. So funny, I was looking at the same mounts and had the same realization. Wow.. is that expensive. Thanks for the great knowledge.... especially for a new guy.
Nice job! For a little extra safety assurance and to hide the power wire, you might consider some 1/4" or 3/8" split-loom tubing and run all of the zip line in that. Just extra armor against abrasion, even though this frunk area isn't exactly as exposed to the elements like normal under-hood wiring.
When looking for mounts like that, one should source from their local area metal fabricator's. Not only will you get it cheaper but you help support your local community.
Josh! Great video. Thanks for the info and the insight. Pulled the trigger on the double antenna mount. As we discussed, it is in fact dipped in gold. So, I don't feel so bad about the price, lol. Seriously, got it installed and very happy about it. See you out there. 73 de Bill
@HamRadioCrashCourse If the audio output doesn't satisfy your needs, you can hook up a standard 3.5mm aux cord. That is what I did for my IC-2730A. I hooked it up to the 2nd speaker jack and now I have great surround audio. Not to mention I don't have to buy a $50 speaker. But of course, that only works with a radio that has an aux port.
I like that power distribution box. I had previously powered my radio straight off the battery on my previous vehicle. Now with a newer nicer truck, I want to power my radio and route the wires much cleaner. The only issue I'm having is deciding where to mount the radio with a clean look...
Well you got it done. I hope that you don't have any issues with the install. But you know what is involved with this project and you saved a lot of money doing it yourself.
Found it - nevermind. Ignore my other comment. i'd delete it if i remembered the oroginal comment I left it on. I cannot tell you how invaluable this is. thank you for being the pioneer on this car.
One more thing. I have a tool that looks kinda like a screwdriver, but it is hollow. You shove it through the grommet, then push the wire through the tool, the retrieve the tool. Easier than it sounds. It is just called a firewall grommet wire insertion tool.
@@bb_37 You tube won't let you post links, but here is the Amazon description. There are cheaper ones available, but I liked this one . GoolRC Wire Insertion Tool Set Wire Harness Special Lead Tool Laser Tools OEM:7618
It might not have shown well on camera, but the antenna mount has a gasket between it and the truck body. 👍 Here are my thoughts on EVs! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FiHshy_nojA.html
Nice install! That "frunk" area in the Lightning is so cool, tons of room behind the plastic to hide stuff, and the 12V battery is just right there. Regarding the low audio from the speaker when it is under the seat, I have a similar issue and might upgrade my FTM-200 to the FTM-500 when it is available. It has a front facing speaker right on the head unit!
That great. most trucks are easy to do. you could even do a LiFePO4 battery or add that later as back up battery. them mounts are a standard. business radios use same mount. I got some VHF LOW ones. 73's
Fantastic install video for the new F150, hands down the best I've seen! Been wanting to do this for some time and wasn't sure about that mount but it looks really solid and well built. Thanks!
Nicely done Josh! You're a better man than me, I drilled a hole in my F-150 Platinum. When I saw the price for the brake light mount, I lost my marbles and went straight for the step drill bit and put a hole in the truck body. But that is a super clean mount. 73 de KO6TX
Better ground plane that way anyway. Just drill the hole. Everyone so gun shy about in. They make nmo plugs if you ever go to sell it, alternatively advertise it as having the coax there already to other drill shy hams lol. Might get more money for it.
I got a 21 f150 xlt, 4 radios and emergency lights. 2 30amp fuse blocks and 2 radios ran straight to the battery with a 7 wire, trailer wire, all ran through the same hole on my fire wall. It wasn't too bad when I broke out the dawn dish soap to ease the wire through the fire wall.
Thanks. I plan to install the same radio in my 2018 F150 ic truck. I think I'll use the dual antenna mount. The mount is a sticker shock. Hence my delay.
I appreciate the walkthrough on how you did it, and also the closer look into your beautiful truck! It is amazing how quickly kids can scuff up/ dirty the inside of a new vehicle! Glad you like it, I am sure it will serve you well in many aspects! De K1MAZ
Is really helped me plan out my power install for my own mobile rig. My issue has been that I want to add a few more things up to power than just my radio. However, I am going to also add some battery protection so I don't run down my car battery.
As a suggestion, I have an ICOM IC-2730a installed in my Tesla Model 3. I use a Jackery 500 to power my radio. I like having the radio power independent of the car's 12-volt system.
I'm following your lead on this. Just ordered one, even shipping was $$$ from those guys. Is it overbuilt at all? Yes, seems very overpriced. Maybe $200 looks fair, we'll see when it arrives. Thanks for the vid!
Did a similar install on my hybrid. Also small battery, and yes, easy to kill them. I installed a power relay so that distrito box only powers up when vehicle powered on. That will save you from having the radio deplete the 12v and needing to call your wife for a boost. Ask me how I know…😂😂😂
As a ford technician that just completed working on a lighting, to get to everything under the frunk, it has to come out. So make sure the mount is able to be quick disconnected to allow the removal.
Bought the dual antenna mount for my Colorado truck. It installed just as easy as you did Josh. One antenna for UHF/VHF. The other antenna for GMRS. I got two antennas from Compactenna. They seem to get good reception for both radios. The other day on 70cm, I was able to transmit 40 miles to a repeater to make a contact. The SWR for each antenna is not bad but not great.
Great install. I know you have a grommet around the base plate, but a little rust inhibitor inside those drilled holes will go a long way for peace of mind.
Nice video and truck. Keep an eye on the gaskets for that light and mount. I have a 2015 Platinum and had problems with condensation and musty smells inside the truck. Turned out that the light was leaking. Love the look of this mount but the price and the drilling are a deal buster. Almost thinking of getting a backrack instead for that price and mounting the antenna on it instead.
This really is a great video, in somewhat uncharted waters. A lot of us know how to do mobile installs, bonding, etc. - but I don’t think I’ve ever seen one where a mobile install was done on an electric vehicle. I guess you’re the trendsetter now Josh!
I just bought a 2021 F150 Lariat and have to re-install my Icom ID-5100 in this one. I had the rig in the center console on my 2011 Lariat. Because of all the wires under the seat I can't find a large enough area. Luckily, as you said, the electrical boxes, grommets and center console are both the same. Just have to wait for the weather to go above freezing as this truck doesn't fit in my garage. If that company that makes the roof bracket would cut the price to $150 they would sell 3x as many. Crazy expensive.
So much hesitation from everyone to drill these holes always. Just do a simple NMO mount center roof guys(I know this ones got glass). This mount costs more than the holes gonna devalue the truck and the kiddos y'all let rampage through yer vehicles devalue them more also.
Edit- i saw you have an LTT driver. If you ever go with that kinda merch, I'd be down for an HRCC screwdriver. I just watched your video on plans for the communal bookcase. I say do a long form video on that. You know we'll watch it, bud. 🤙🏽
For external speaker, just go to the junkyard and find a 3 way speaker, because two-way radio external speakers are one way, they cost more and don't sound as good as a three-way
You should have bought the dual NMO mount! You will regret it Josh! It is an excellent antenna mounting solution for that vehicle which is worth the cost in my opinion. Enjoy your new truck!
Nice. I did the same Bullet Proof Diesel mount on my '22 F150. I drilled those 2 holes the first day I had my truck! Painfull to do, but that is a great mount. I wish I would have done the dual mount. I wasn't sure the placement of the dual mount would work with my kayak mounts on the topper. Like that other install video you mentioned, I ran power on the passenger side to the leftover space behind the rear seat. I added a 3-way anteanna switch and power distribution there. So far I only have one GMRS radio in, but plan on having GMRS, UHF/VHF, and CB (for Jeep events). I think I've given up on the wireless charging pad (its pretty useless) in the center console, and am probably going to mount the radio head in that area so it can hide away when not in use. i just haven't been able to commit to that yet. GMRS is a Midland that only needs the mic visible when in use and just lays in the map pocket on the side of the console. Enjoy that truck!
@@HamRadioCrashCourse My Powerboost has a nice big rubber grommet on the passenger side. So just poked a hole in it and pulled the wire in by the fuse panel inside. And the 12v battery is right there like a “normal” truck.
This is kg7 iux in Arizona. I just got done watching your video and loved it. I also have the Icom id-5100a. My question is with your Lido mount. I just recently bought the Uniden SDS200 Digital Police Scanner and as you can imagine I'm having trouble mounting it in my 2019 F-350. I was thinking about the Lido amount do you think it's strong enough to hold the scanner or do you think that it will droop eventually?
I like electric vehicles but there's limitations to them just like gas and diesel vehicles. Thankfully in a pass life I was a diesel mechanic and I loved working on engines, but electric ehhh let's just say I didn't want to take my ase certs in it lol. Only thing I've ran was electrical wire to a Jon boat, I'm sure I probably would be able to figure it out on my truck, I need to add a few more led light bars and couple led light pods.
I cringed when you drilled the two holes. Not sure I would have the guts to do that. Nice install though. I like the color of the truck too. Jack K5FIT
I hope your truck is quieter than mine. 2017 Tacoma and it pukes so much rf that I can’t get on 2m when the the ignition is on. I’ll get it figured out eventually. But hope you have no problems.
Thanks for the video. I don't like wiring the radio directly to the battery without a way to make sure it the radio turns off when I turn off the truck. After I discharged my 12 V battery a few times in my (now replaced by my 2023 Lightning) 1995 T100, I added a relay that disconnected the high current 12 connection when the truck was off. Surely there is such a wire somewhere.
Dang Josh, that is pricey. Too late now, but did you check the Larson electronics mounts? Very similar, but slightly different at half the price, and no drilling. Yours does have the advantage oof being able to put the coax inside the truck behind the light. I ran my coax along the window, then down to a grommet that is behind the rear seat, then along the channel by the door. I'll try to make a video in a week or two when I get back in town.
Why not just pull out the trunk liner and make it easier to work in and around that area? Also, are you concerned about drilling through the firewall and installing a grommet rather than the routing you chose?
Great article about automotive wiring. I just finished installing a FTM300 in a 2014 Toyota and I went straight to the battery, that’s why I was wondering about your install. Maybe a video on that article? 73
Why not install the distribution box under your dash and supply it with power using much heavier gauge wire with a main fuse at the battery? That way, you don’t have to fish wires for all your radios thru the firewall. Keep your wire runs to the radios as short as possible.
@@HamRadioCrashCourse Which is why I said you put a main fuse (I use a 40A for the main) on the 6 gauge wire right at the battery so the entire run of 6 gauge is protected by the main fuse. You run the 6 gauge positive thru the firewall to the distribution box where you have your smaller fuses for your individual radios. All cars are unibodies now, so you can run the negative to just about any of the car's framework. You want to keep the power cords to your radios as short as possible to eliminate the loss you'd get on longer runs.
You're gonna be mad when I tell you that you could have just feed the feedline in from the third brake light and it would've naturally followed the C channel down to the bottom without loosening the headliner or c pillar plastics at all. I've done it with several feedlines.
Nice install. I sent a link to your video to an installation guru I know and he was intrigued since he hasn't worked on a Lightning yet. There was a metal bar that you slipped in behind the opening. That metal bar had screw threads in it that lined up with the holes you drilled. Correct? Was that metal bar stainless steel or plain steel? I think you said the screws were stainless steel. See where I'm going? Bare aluminum on bare steel over time might be a problem.
That method bypasses the Hall Effect sensor that the computer uses for battery management. Ground to chassis or a common ground stub is the proper method in modern vehicles. The ham radio handbooks are wrong in going direct to battery negative.
hello. Interesting to see your install, as its becoming harder and harder to get through the firewall. What gauge wire did you use from your battery to your fuse box? I've seen 8 awg recommended for multiple radios. thanks!
@hamradiocrashcourse How did you get the lido in the seat bolt up front??? Did you have to do any thing to the seat bolt "beauty cover" to get the LIdo to fit? I was looking at the same mount however lido told me it doent fir the F150 non lightning
I loosened the seatbolt and shoved the metal foot base of the mount under the seat rail as hard as I could. There is a depression that the foot will actually slide into.
