Well, my great great great Grandpappy didn't do it that way! 🤪 Couldn't resist saying it... You gave your Dad the heavy end on that first attempt. When they turn the power on and nothing starts smoking you're good. Look great nice job...
Are you a licensed electrician? Just a couple of pointers , always add a couple of ft. to your estimated wire length, your wires in the interior panel were to short to dress up in the panel. It looked like they would block a breaker in the lowest slots You bond n/g at the service disconnect and then keep them seperate in panel. In a trailer you are required to have a ground from the panel to trailer frame. Your ground between ground rods should be in the ground not on top. You need bushings on the 2" connectors. On your riser the first strap should be within 3' of panel. The top strap within 3'' of weather head. The rigid coupling will come off ,no need to cut off. I hope you reamed the pipe after cutting it. As stated no teflon tape needed on pipe threads. This ruins your bond. You are required by code to actually torqu your wire connections 250"lbs on most panels. Usually an eye bolt is required at top of pole within 1ft of weather head. Did you pull a permit? Just because utility co. Hooked it up does not make it correct. They have no enforcement over any wiring on the load side of meter. If you are not a licensed electrician you are putting liabilty on yourself and the home owner if something happens. Just my 2 cents.
Get you a diagram from your local power company and just write down everything you see. Start from the top and go down. Every house or setup can be a little different
In MS, the power company provides so many feet. Usually the distance between 2 power poles. The home owner is responsible for only the wire from the weather head and into the breaker box.
@@smithworx1091 in general, for the USA, the client provides about 3 feet 1 metre outside the weather head. the power company does the rest of the wires.
Very good video, I got a Mobil home in our property and already have a house there with meter and everything. Can you hook it up to the house box instead? Would this work?
It just depends on the electric companies code in your area. They will be able to tell you if it's ok. The house panel might not be able to handle the load from the house and the mobile home
You will most likely be required to have a separate meter for the mobile home and disconnect for that said mobile home, which disconnect will have to be placed within 30 feet of said mobile home. You will most likely need to upgrade the service to the property as they normally only install for what is needed at the time of install/upgrade
No. The ground wire and the neutral wire are independent from each other. The only place they are connected together is at the main service disconnect which is under the meter base.
You got grounds and neutrals on the same terminal strip. This is wrong. One terminal strip should be bonded to the enclosure with the green bond screw and neutral terminal strip should be insulated from the metal enclosure. A separate grounding wire should be run from the ground terminal strip out to the grounding lig in the main disconnect.
It all depends on the county or city rules. Some are a full 20ft pole. Some are only enough for the weather head to be 10ft from ground level. Just check with your local power company. They should have a spec sheet on what they require
you should get a driver bit and use a hammer drill (on hammer only) to drive your grounding rods. still not fun, but nowehere near as much work as a sledge.
@@tylerhughes5420 he did use copper wire (not a lot, but still), the conduit is $100 a 10 foot section, plus pole, weather head, maybe had to pay for box (which is 250-500), plus dug a hole (by hand), copper ground rods (also drove by hand). I’d say that fair for material plus man power. Honestly a one day job but I bet he was there 2. So…not much (money for labor/install) left over, after mileage, fuel, tools used (already had), and TAXES (haha). As someone mentioned earlier…cost would be anywhere from $1k-$2k from anyone “good”, plus parts. I think $2-2.5k for everything (parts/labor) is cheap 🤷. Just my 2 cents 👍🏼 Part of country and location is a big factor. This looks to be down south by the red dirt and not many people willing or want to do mobile feed hookups in my area.
@@smithworx1091 theres a black solid ground cable tied to the frame of my trailer. Looks like it was cut off when I bought the mobile home. Still in the process of setting it up. I have the green aluminum #4 cable that came from the electric company sold to me as a 4-4-4-2. The green cable is ran to inside panel on the equipment ground from the meter box. Do you think I still need to connect the black mobile home’s frame ground cable to outside meter box’s equipment ground??? I thought the inside panel equipment ground was already wired to the frame.
@Stevenhdez04 yes I would connect it back. The mobile home setup guys already take care of this before I show up. I thought this might have been what you were talking about but wasn't sure
Just lost the mechanical ground by using Teflon tape. You never use that on conduit and never use primer on NMRT. NEVER LET NON ELECTRICIANS DO ELECTRICAL WORK.!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
