Interesting break on that drill. In my 46 years, most of which I've actively tried to destroy everything I touch, I've never broke a drill in that fashion. I would like to see more on that subject.
4 years of "proper" home machine shop usage.. seen one drill fail almost like that. 10mm going into alumin(i)um, going by hand though, and I lost the entire tip of the drill to a really long break similar to this one. Drill index was bought at Aldi though, so expectations were not high.
I've had drills fail like this, almost certainly a manufacturer defect. The drill cracks during heat treating, then once it's under enough force, it splits the web along the pre-existing crack.
I've been a "maker" since the 1970s. I do machining on and off. I've never seen a longitudinal breakage of a drill bit. That's just fascinating. I wonder about maybe a batch of drills that were hardened but not suitably tempered afterwards.
just the statement of getting access to a electron microscope and finding out that there was a preexisting break warrants an extra video on that alone. Even if I'd have the tools to look at this closely, I couldn't tell what I would be looking at - so I'd love an explainer, and knowing your production quality and explanation depth, I really really want to see that video some day!
Your bore gauges are worth more than that lathe. Of all of the fantastic machinists I watch on RU-vid, you most deserve a bigger, better lathe. I was extremely lucky enough to acquire a DeValliere H140 Tool Room lathe, made in France (the birth place of the lathe). It came with a Bison 8" set-tru chuck. The machine tipped over shortly after purchase. The only damage was to the handles on the carriage. The original owners put it into storage from which a friend of mine bought it for pennies. He bought it intending to take the metal to the recycling center. It has no wear at all and performs well within the original specs hand written in the manual. Knowing that your level of expertise crushed mine, I'm ashamed that it's me and not you that has stumbled into this machine. I love every moment I work on it and think of you often, hoping you have the opportunity to experience something as fantastic as this machine. I've tricked it out with a VFD, DRO & a bunch of custom tooling, including a tool post grinder based on a Cherline mill head. This machine has never failed to amaze me with its results. You need your lathe day! Love the steering wheel!
Highly recommend playing with Tree supports in newer slicers: it's a game changer for internal bridge selections while still being SUPER simple to remove.
You could also make a "speed ball" to just slide into the vent holes on the wheel that would act as a handle instead of spinning the wheel by the spoke.
James - thank you for selecting a steering wheel with symmetrical spokes. I just can’t abide the looks of the more common wheels seen here & there with their lopsided spokes. I bet the same holds for you! 👍
As I'm a paraplegic and use a wheelchair, I hate the three spoke design. Have looked for steering wheels but never found anything worthwhile. Then a friend decided to 3d print one for my lathe and after that for my 10in bench drill press. Wow, so so much better for me. Now a joy to use them.
I would throw the whole drill set out. The best drills I ever had came from a garage sale, English made and rusty looking, sharpened and drilled very nice especially good in chassis steel .
Had the same exact centerline break on 2 Drill Hog bits. Predrilling before chamber reaming pew pew barrels, so do that drilling off a collet chuck in the tailstock, then ream off custom bored blanks instead of a floating holder. Aaand my letter set came new with multiple bent bits. Their “warranty” only covered the bigger boys that broke. Sold all of them. Running cle-line and a mix of a few others now
Dear James, congratulations with 100k Subscribers! Thans for sharing the knowledge - it is a genuine treasure for many of your watchers. I love your videos!
I have two sets of drill hog drills. One of them is cobalt. From what I have read, their QC isn’t great. I’ve had no issues with my set over the past 6 years with them. Their lifetime warranty is also great.
i had got the 115 piece cobalt set; same, I have had 3 bits shatter so far, I did not return to Drill Hog, I replaced them with good ones from Mcmaster Carr, thank you James
As always a good video and proper addition to your mill. Because they steering wheel have all those holes in it, you can also add a steering knob like on the earthmoving machines. That knob will be indexable due to all those holes and can be beneficial to speeding up work. Especially for longer strokes, where you would need two hands on the wheel.
@@MrMartinSchou I dunno, if you were to mount the handle in a plastic bushing (delrin or nylon maybe), it ought to push-fit into the hole, spin nicely but be removeable to put it in another hole....and if the holes aren't all a close enough size to make that possible, well we know James has reamers :D
That bolt you pulled from the shaft is pretty standard in the racing industry, even in old British cars as well. For example I had a morris minor, some of the threads are imperial, some are metric and some are whitworth, some are metric with whitworth hex heads, some are imperial with whitworth heads, some are imperial with metric heads or vice versa, honestly racing and vintage car fasteners get very confusing
I love this channel. Not only does my man have a kick ass, super clean shop... but he breaks out an electron microscope too! Id love to see more on that analysis. Thanks James!
Did the same thing to my Bridgeport a few years ago. Used a stainless marine wheel complements of a local flea market. So much more functional than the original handle.
Looks great James!! Only thing it's missing is Clough42 etched into it. 👍👍 I have a mill that's almost identical and now you have me wanting to convert mine from a lever to wheel lol. Wow... I have never seen a drill fail like that and I have broken probably hundred or more drills over the past 35+ years. It's has to be that it was a bad batch of product considering you've had more than one from that set break in this fashion. Either that or it's a _"new feature"_ to make removal of broken drills easier. 😂😂 I'd certainly be interested in a follow up video exploring why it broke like this.
My theory: the Chinese are used to manufacturing for the U.S. and European markets so they often use both systems. Sometimes a bolt will have the thread made by one company and the head by another - if the final customer doesn't care if one of the dimensions is metric or imperial (standard) they will use whatever tooling is closest at the time. And it works (mostly) but probably catches quite a few of us out in the process. :)
Thats neat. I actually machined mine from scratch and Its nice to have the resolution of a large wheel. All my manual machines had large hand wheels after that. Something to be said about making all the modified parts and your own tooling.
I made my own aluminum V blocks and one day decided to take a block of delrin i had and machined a set from the delrin. Delrin works amazing for anti marring. Polymers in general tend to work well for making tool holders, clamps, etc, both mill and the lathe for anti marring.
Oh man of course I'd love to see some nerd content on that weird drill failure. Never seen anything like that break before, presumably because it's a fancy expensive drill and I usually use cheap ones in my cheap tools. (I imagine it's $dayjob that gives you access to such things, and that you don't secretly have a second garage with an SEM in it, right?)
Just did this to my Wells-Index mill Def. an improvement Add a steering Knob to it youll be glad you did . As far as the Drill hog Bits I have every bit Drill hog makes and I love them And the warranty cant be beat
On my lathes tail stocks I use a roundwheel and put handles on the circumference of the wheel . Very handy and I think easier to use . I am going to put on my mill soon . Try it you may like it James. Terry
i would love to see a video on the failure analysis of the drill bit. I have learned that any time you explain a new process I find ways to apply that newfound knowledge in many other areas.
Thanks for sharing,James. I finally have all the bits needed to replace the three ball-end handles on my Mini Mill with a Ø250mm hand wheel for an article for HSM. I’m cheating a little, but you’ll have to wait for a) the article to be written and b) George to get it in the cue. Yes, please for a short video of your SEM analysis! While I could wheedle access to an SEM, it’s in a food lab so they probably wouldn’t like me to bring broken machine tooling in. I think it would be both informative and entertaining for your followers. Thanks, Charlie
Great job, looks like it'll be very convenient to use! Also, I would like to see more of the electron microscope inspection! I've had a different brand twist drill do that before. My work wasn't clamped down quite securely enough, shifted slightly and the drill bound up and kerploded. Sure glad I was wearing safety glasses because a fragment shot straight at my left eye and bounced off dead-center.
I dont have a mill (we have a battleship era bridgeport at work) but I am totally doing this to my drill press. I have seen others do it to their mills but didnt appreciate what it actually did other than fireball tools likes making everything look like a go-kart
Weird mixes of metric and imperial are always "fun". Some years ago I restored an old British made table saw; the main spindle shaft was metric (to fit metric bearings), but had a 5/8" BSW thread on one end, and a 5/8" BSF thread on the other. The spanner size for 5/8" BSW is not the same as that for 5/8" BSF.... except in this case they'd used the same external size nuts; just to throw you off the scent. The remaining parts of the machine helpfully used BA threads; apart from the sliding table... which was mostly metric.
Excellent explanation on SEM and EDAX analysis ( I assume this was the analysis method). I have worked with SEM, but on a very basic level. It would certainly appear that the drill bit was cracked during manufacture. Thanks for sharing
I love my Blacksmith's drill bits. 1/2" shank, and up to 1" drill bit (actually my set is metric, but, y'know...). Save a bunch of time with a boring bar.
Interesting that your clock spring returns the quill back up. On the Bridgeport, it's supposed to be adjusted to hold the quill in place and NOT spring back.
I know everyone has issues with Harbor Freight, but they're number/letter/fractional Cobalt 135 split point drill set for $115 is awesome. I have been using them for a couple of years and they have performed great
I was looking at those drills online last night, now $125. The one star reviews complained of dulling quickly. One review was complaining of the failure to drill out a deck screw, and I know those to be real hard metal, that require carbide. So the question is are those users drilling too hard of steel. I do have their cheaper HSS 115 piece set, and they are junk.
@@f.hababorbitz I run a small machine shop working mostly in low carbon steel and aluminum. I have two sets and I am REALLY pleased with the performance. Since they are Cobalt split points, they are vastly UNDER priced. You will like them!
Are you kidding?? Hell yes we wanna see more on that broken drill!! You shouldn't have even had to ask! Lol! We're ALL a bunch of hardcore nerds that are just here to absorb all the info you can dish out. So, bring on the electron microscope inspection of that drill bit. I'm sure there's a LOT to be gleaned from it!
"I did get the opportunity to put the broken bit in an electron microscope..." you know, as one does. What channel is this!? Applied Science? And of course we want to hear more about that.
Have the PM.835S, Pretty much the same head . Noticed you have the same cheesey quill fine adjustment hand crank wheel that's plastic, as I do. Great mill but it needs replaced with a solid crank wheel . Hello from Mt.Home Idaho... Neighbor
I'm restoring a late-1960s NATO SATCOM II dish for use in radio astronomy. In the course of doing that, we've found a delightful mis-mash of metric and imperial hardware. Even on the same parts. Like one tachometer motor attached with socket-head allan machine screws, and the one on the other side attached with a collection of apparently-random hardware. NATO procurement doctrine would farm out various bits and pieces to different member nations, so, I guess one should expect a certain "patchwork" of design doctrine......
I was very surprised by the SEM/EDS analysis of the drill break. Nice FEI scope there. Ran a company for 20+ years making desktop EDS analysis hw/sw. 4pi Analysis Inc.. , died in 2008, recession was too big to absorb. I for one would like to see more.
This looks like a great addition to a mill. My hobby size mill has frequently required me to remove one of the 3 handles in the quill to allow the work to pass under. I would consider this for my floor model drill press though.
What a great idea! I'll be doing the same to my mill, but to avoid all of that machining on a new hub, I'm just going to weld a steel round onto the old hub, so I'll just need to add the 3 mounting holes.
I have used and still have the drill hog drill bits. The neodymium Snap-on me left and right but then I have another side that are perfectly fine I truthfully think it's in there hardening and tempering process is where some of the failure comes in
Quick tip, its unlikely you would have needed supports for printing the bolt holes, they appear to have a conical end. Also a quick chamfer on the one interior face wouldnt have affected your testing and would have let you print that without support. Im impressed with 0.2mm layers fitting threads perfectly like that though, especially in nylon. I usually just go for brass heatsets or hexagonal pockets for nuts if the fasteners go through the part.
Print the tap drill size for the holes and then tapping after printing works well too. Having a nice new sharp tap is key though. Worn taps do not cut plastic very well.
The drill failure is something I've never seen before, I'd be really interested in seeing some detail on that. Also, there is no need whatsoever to support the bottoms of holes that small, the printer will have no issue bridging that.
I haven't tried this myself yet, but a recent version of PrusaSlicer apparently added support for splitting models along a line and adding keyways to line the parts up again, so each half could have been printed with the best side up. That would introduce new places for error margins though, but might be good enough for prototyping like you did. And I 100% agree with what you said at some point -- the places where you don't need full precision are great practice to do it for when you actually need it.
I have a drill lioke that. I was from avery exppensive set I bought to drill stainless. They were awesome expect for 1. 40 years latter, they are all still alive except for the very small ones. The broken one is now a stubby.
Think I am gonna do this. Was thinking 3 lever but like this better. Just need to find a large enough one for the right price... ahh, ebay link in description.
Ive bought some drillhogs, the only ones that are "good" are the smaller drills. Where the chuck part of the shaft and drill shaft are the same diameter, otherwise they are unreliable junk as ive had as much as 1/16 runout. Concentricity issues like that are unacceptable and causes them to break every single time after a few dozen holes, and they wont hold their edge because of it... on top of drilling way oversized. Their bigger bits are unusable, full stop. Smaller drills are good enough for light duty work, and if it says its hardened it actually feels and performs like it is only case hardened, doesnt keep an edge after sharpening be it by hand or on a dedicated bit sharpener.
Nice iteration of this mod. If I might make a suggestion, the new hub would provide better support if a spigot was provided to centre the wheel on the hub. This also reduces some of the bending load on the bolts and puts a greater percentage of the rotational torque directly into the bolts instead of as a bending load on the bolts. Again a nice mod. Take care.
@@JasperJanssen Hi, the spigot does not have to remove the mounting bolt counter bore, as in most motor vehicle applications the steering wheel centering/locating spigot wall thickness is often less than .100” , all it does is provide a positive location for the wheel and reduce the possible misalignment during assembly and as a side benefit reduce the bending load on the fasteners. From the brief shots available in the video it appears that there is a sufficient area of the adapter visible through the wheel hub for a spigot without modifying or removing the counterbore. The fastener torque with the surface area of the wheel and adapter faces provides enough clamping friction to handle the rotational torque applied to the wheel. Thanks for your comment.
Similar bad experiences with Drill hog. They seem to love to advertise that they have "USA" in their name and come in "American made" Huot cases, but they couldn't seem to answer my questions of where the bits were actually made (with one or two exceptions that clearly state made in USA). Never had issues with Chicago Latrobe or Precision Twist (their stubby, letter sized ones are made in Brazil and also seem great). Definitely would love to see some electron microscopy!
