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Thanks for the video Mike. Any idea of whether or not you could add extra isolators onto the outer rollers rail ceiling attachments too in order to decrease vibration even further?
I'm really sorry for the late reply, I didn't see this comment until now. They make square rubber pads that can be put in-between the metal rail and the ceiling but I haven't installed any yet myself. Here are some examples: www.amazon.com/dp/B002IA0WQC , www.amazon.com/dp/B01IU6WT5O , www.amazon.com/dp/B01KAFG8EG . Thanks for watching!
They also make little rubber pads that you can install between the metal hangars and the ceiling. I haven't tried 'em yet but they might help reduce the vibration and sound even more. Thanks for watching!
This is great but you should have shown the before noise level and after. Also you should have did all the cleaning and lubing first taken the noise level reading THEN put the kit on and test again. That way people can decide whether it makes enough difference to even bother with it.
I agree, your suggestions would have singled out just the improvement from the vibration isolator kit. I didn't show the before and after noise level but I did say it was a difference of 12db. Also, I said that it significantly reduced vibration in the room above, which was the main goal. Thanks for watching!
ok this is seems like a really good idea, I am going to try it. Do you think adding couple of those washers where the railing attaches the ceiling will help too, or is it just overdoing it?
There are cork filled rubber anti-vibration pads (like this: amzn.to/3uFsmYH ) that you could drill holes through to mount between the garage ceiling and the metal brackets holding the garage door opener. I considered this addition myself, but I wasn't sure how much it would help. Let me know how it goes if you end up trying them out.
Some reviews of the vibration isolator kits say that peoples' garage door opener motors have fallen off, with the rubber separating from the metal portions. Have you had issues with that? I wonder if it's better to install it the way you have, on the sides, instead of directly on the ceiling: This way, the weight is on the side of the mount, not pulling the mount directly down.
Luckily, I haven't had any problems but that seems like a legitimate concern. I don't think this type is meant to be install against the ceiling. If you wanna do that, you can buy anti-vibration pads made of rubber and cork. As a safety backup, you could always attach some loose zip ties, wire, or paracord to catch it if the rubber were to separate.
Do you think you could just install these one at a time without dropping down the motor to the ladder? Also, can you just adjust the bracket that doesn't have the extra brace on it? Will adjusting just one brace have any negative impact now that the motor is less "centered" than before?
You could add some pieces of wood to the top of the ladder so it was touching the motor. That would allow you to work on one side at a time without having to drop the motor down. If you didn't adjust both brackets, your motor would end up being over 2 inches off center. That might be fine but I'd guess it could cause premature and uneven wear.
@Mike attempts Thx for response. You only ended up needing to move one hole (on one side) per the video, right (1:40)? In that case, do both supports slightly form an 'A' shape slightly? Or is the whole thing just closer to the moved support?
@@opie0010 Yeah, I think you're right, I moved both at first but it ended up somehow being too far apart. When looking at it, the supports seem straight, not slightly A-shaped.
Fyi it's not a good idea to lubricate the tracks on the door. It won't help anything, matter of fact it makes it worse. Eventually dust and grease will build up in there causing the door to jump and stick in some spots. It's better to just wipe the track clean with a rag or something.
Good point, I agree, don't use any lubricant that would attract dirt. The silicone spray lube I used is specifically for garage doors and leaves a tack-free film that won’t accumulate dust and dirt.
There are cork filled rubber anti-vibration pads (like this: amzn.to/3uFsmYH ) that you could drill holes through to mount between the garage ceiling and the metal brackets holding the garage door opener. I considered this addition myself, but I wasn't sure how much it would help. Let me know how it goes if you end up trying them out.
Your video shown in fast mode that is so stupid ,how can one see what you have done? Should re do this video again in a regular space and show the detail steps on putting the bushing...
This is the first complaint that the video was too fast. Most people wouldn't want to watch it in real time. Plus, every step is explained and there's also CC. You can also press the gear icon and slow down the playback speed.
who in the hell wants to watch this guy unbolt and then reattach the same bolts in real time or slow motion? If you need that to see what this video is about you need to have someone else do your task for you before you hurt yourself.
