Why is the tar/sealant on the bottom of the vent? I would think at the top, so water follows path of least resistance/gravity down around the hole. If it gets under the vent from the top it'll pool won't it and get into the vent hole and potentially into the roof??
@@Lifes_Apprentice Thanks for the clarification on that. I assumed the lower shingles would cover for that, but didn't realize you might have to worry about ice etc. Appreciate it!
Roof tar on the bottom edge of the vent doesn’t allow any water to escape on the top of the shingle at its bottom. This will pool water eventually allowing water to accumulate causing damage. The water must flow
@@Lifes_Apprentice typically turtle vents are higher on the roof so if an ice dam forms that high up, you’ve got bigger issues at work. Blowing snow has a greater chance of entering through the vent openings than under it. If you create something that works structurally instead of using silicon it’ll last longer, work better and it’s cheaper. Just sayin
I think it looks good except for the nail placement on the vent I get what you meant about the water traveling down the rib but you nailed it on the sides and the nails aren’t even all the way down water is going to hit those nails and that’s a direct link
How is he able to put a nail in the bottom of the vent face? If that nail goes all the way through the underlayment and into the sheathing, couldn't water run through the hole the nail made and violate the sheathing?
You should never caulk on the down side as water has no way out if it gets in. Also you should have one more course under the vent. Been roofing for 30 years never had a leak.
I’m a DIY homeowner other videos have said not to completely caulk the bottom edge as you are trapping water from draining down to the shingle below creating a potential leak?
OK, this is me being picky, but you seemed to have lined up the tabs between shingle courses, rather than overlapping the joints of the tabs --just aesthetics.
Absolute pro. Idiots that did my roof didn't replace my caps so I'm going to have find a way to do that before removing the old one. My bathroom vents are like 7", any recommendation for caps? Hard to find anything and have any confidence it'll work.
@@Lifes_Apprentice Well, my furnace vent is leaking somewhere. It's rusted and falling apart so not exactly a shocker, and it was probably re-installed incorrectly. The leak was hidden because the top of my furnace is concealed with sheet rock, I just happened to hear a drip while I was near. The vent installed now is a huge one, not sure why it's so big, but do you have a go to one that you could recommend, for an 8" round furnace duct? Preferably with a backdraft damper and screen. Thanks :/
@@swiss6253 I don't have a brand that I would reccomend. You will have to shop around and see what you can find in your area. I would reccomend you use Galvanized or stainless steel though
@@Lifes_Apprentice Alright thank you. Was going to buy the "Active Ventilation" brand, but those are aluminum. I'm also reading something about a double stack with an intake so should probably make sure it's not one of those. Appreciate it.
Very helpful. I'm adding two (2) of these vents in my garage to vent out the heat. It's 100°F in SoCal today but my garage feels a lot hotter than that.
Last shingle you notched fell right onto a nail in the course below. Cut that back or better yet don't nail that lower shingle until you know exactly where the one above it will land. Get you some NP1 instead of "tar" and go around the back and sides of that vent on the bottom of it
Like the way you installed the vent my friend. one issue tho, the last shingle you nailed has a nail right under it on the right and it’s where the keyway is going to be
Excellent video! Can I ask how I would do this on one of those resin sheds? Has the plastic roof? Im thinking just cut a hole and sit the vent on top of the plastic shingle but there is nothing to overlap the sides of the vent ?
I’m not an experienced roofer but I would not cut shingles on top of existing new roof. I think it would be easy to damage the roof underneath. Also I would’ve notched the upper shingle around the vent. This would keep any seam away from the flashing. I was told to leave a gap between the roofing and the vent to allow water to stream down without going under the shingle. This video depicts the roofing going right up against the vent. I don’t put any nails in the vent flashing under a shingle. Only the two nails on the exposed lower part. The flashing is held down by the next course of roofing which is nailed on the nailing strip but not through the flashing. No holes no leak. Too many nails. That vent isn’t going anywhere.
@@Lifes_Apprentice sorry man Don’t mean to be negative but these are my observations. Only read one negative comment You’re doing way more than me to help others. Roofing is fascinating to me that’s why I’ve avoided it most of my 40 years of being in the trades. I have to admit I learn a lot that I spent decades not knowing.
@@raycooper9116 I am not the "best"... I do not claim to be... I just help a few people do their own shit like old times....Learn a trade and you will be set for life if you want.....
It's all good but the nails. I had been up on the roof and saw nails poping up becuase of hot and cold weather. I think the roof nails with naoprene shouldbe used. This will save the homeowners headache with roof leak when contractors have left. It's only few dollars extra cost for the nails.
@@Brandon-no3vc Roof nails are not the same as regular nails. Some cheap contractors would rather save a few dollars and left homeowners with problems. I've learned my lesson and always get two quotes or more from contractors on how they do things and what materials. Some were pissy and that was good to ward off cowboys.
@@Brandon-no3vc Grip-Rite® Roofing Nails with Neoprene Washer. The additional neoprene washer creates a seal against water. I bought these for around $6 a box to replace many pop-up rusty nails around my chimney rain guard and some loose nails around the vent caps on the roof. Check at HP or Lowes. Look for the aluminum type and don't worry about broken rust nails anymore.
Does the vent have to be completely centered over the hole? I had one of these installed recently and if I lol up from the attic I see some of the metal .. maybe an inch hanging over the hole
Appreciate you sharing this video. It was extremely helpful. We had a bad windy rain storm here in Pittsburgh yesterday and apparently it knocked off my roof louver vent a new one put on where the old one went. Are they costly?
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