As a Master Electrician with 40+ years experience I would recommend using crimp nuts in a high vibration environment rather than twist-on wire nuts. I have seen too many wire nuts come loose. Taping them with good quality electrical tape can help but the crimp nuts when crimped with a good quality tool offers superior vibration resistance. Another suggestion, test functionality before reinstalling the roof top shroud. It might save you having to pull the shroud again. Otherwise, a good video.
Hi Kevin, as a pro-electrical guy would you please recommend a "good quality [crimp] tool" There are many to choose just one. Between re-wiring a '74 MGB and modifying a new camper I have a need for "a good quality tool". Tools dedicated to a single, specific task are often the best, but I'm looking at tools that have interchangeable jaws. But if a pro tells me I need multiple tools to get a quality crimp on different connectors, then that's the direction I"ll go. Thank you. - Dustin
Followed these directions and was done in 30 minutes. Plugged rv into 20 amp gfci circuit and a/c started up with no issues. I will miss that CLUNK at start up! 🎉
Great video... thanks for the help. I installed one today. I happen to have the exact same model (48xxxxxxx) and so it was an easy install. Nice to know I can now run my AC with my Honda 2200 inverter generator or from a home outlet.
I installed this on all 3 of my AC today. First one took a bit, but by the 3rd one it was a 5 minute job. Now I won’t need to worry about tripping the genny breakers when 2 units cycle on at the exact same time. (Rare) or when trying to start all 3 in extreme heat. Before it was like an Apollo 13 start up sequence to get all 3 going when over 100 out. It was 102 today and the genny didn’t even surge.
What do you do with the black wire that ran to the start capacitor/PTCR and removed? This is not in the instructions, do you just put a wire nut on it to stub it off? 45000 series with heat pump and freeze board.
I have a active staty that plug in yhe pedestal. Its a surge protector and a easy start. All in one. CAN i use this at the same time? Or would i have to go to a standard type surge protector?
I mounted the soft start right above the capacitors in the cabinet. Never had to remove wires from the compressor. I just connected all the wires in the cabinet with high quality insulated crimp on nylon quick connects. Far easier. I didn't have to pull any wires through the cabinet seal. Update: On the hottest day at the track, 95 deg plus, last month the softstart failed to start the compressor. I shut down and tried it after waiting half an hour several times. No go. I tried it again the next day when it was down to 85 deg, and it worked fine. Not happy. My AC worked perfectly before I installed this. It worked perfectly for a few months as I was testing it getting ready to travel.
Some recent 45*** units have a start capacitor with red, yellow AND black wires. You are supposed to move the red and yellow wires but the enclosed documentation doesn’t say what happens to the black wire when you remove the start capacitor. I tried just taping it off but my install doesn’t work. The compressor doesn’t come on. Tried emailing Coleman twice for help but no reply. Any ideas folks?
