Great idea using the lighter socket for the ignition trigger and running the Anderson plug to the rear panel. I’m going to do the same. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks mate. We’ve just completed our first week on the road (video to come) and the fridge has been running 24/7 without issue. I added the solar panel to the roof to keep it charged when we are parked.
nicely done! looks neat man. wonder if could have wired the battery signal cable into the back of the panel when open & wire onto the cig adaptor positive.. leaving cig hole available?
Quick question…I’ve done this mod and added a victron smart shunt and all works thankfully. But I’m stuck on the ignition wire and the cig plug. You joined the positive wire of the cig plug to the ignition wire and terminated the negative wire of the cig plug right?
Great idea relocating the cig-power ports I'm going to do the same, I have the same box but 100ah batt, I am about to get a DCDC charger, did you research the difference in performance between the 40a & the 25a? I too will be running just a fridge and want to be able to pull it all out to use the tub. enjoyed the video, thank you
Good video. Got a question I did my set up today plugged it all in and the alternator LED on the dcdc charger didn’t come on at all but the LifePo4 led was flashing green..assume you didn’t have this issue?
Both of the lights flash together when the car is off. When the ignition is on, the alternator light flashes and the lifePo4 light stays solid. I just turned my car on to check. They were both on and when I removed the alternator Anderson plug the alternator light went off. I’m only guessing, but you might not have power from the car battery.
Yeah neither of those things happened for me. I only had the lifepo4 indicator flashing. I did read on itech world that it will only start charging when the battery is low enough? Have you heard of this.. but I feel like the light for alternator should still be lit up
Hey mate, just wondering if you've had any issues connecting your DCDC charger directly through the battery output to the battery Anderson plugs. I saw in the Kings how to videos they used a 50A wiring kit, just wondering if that's necessary or not (saves me buying 2 50A wiring kits haha), cheers mate
Hey, I purchased one wiring kit from kings and run that from the car battery to the dcdc charger via the supplied Anderson plugs. It had the fuse supplied.
The DC-DC 50A charger isn't necessary. What's the amperage of your alternator? Most alternators can handle a higher amperage load because they have the capacity. I installed two Lithium batteries in parallel for a maximum draw of 150 amps. The batteries never even came close to providing the 150 amp capacity is point 1. Point 2 is if you have a 170 amp alternator, it won't even see a fraction of that amount being sent to the Lithium batteries ... unless you have a huge battery bank in which case limiting to 50 amps is not a good solution.
I didn’t actually notice any as there wasn’t many to choose from. It’s only to make sure the dc-dc turns off when there’s no ignition and doesn’t drain the main battery.
@glenfilby7637 Another nfi Kings basher! I've had mine for 3 years, it's not a blue top like this one, it's the old black top with pouch cells. I capacity tested it on it's third year birthday and it made 118ah! On a trip to Melbourne last week it ran my 74lt brass monkey fridge for 4 days a long with sat nav and charging other stuff! When I got home it was at 13.1 volts! You can be a brand flogger and easily spend 2 or 3 times on custom lithium for basically the same result. A cold fridge and everything charged! 🙄
