Thank you for the guide. Removing the BPV was the hardest thing I’ve done in a while. Installation of the BOV was a lot simpler. If you’re doing this install, I’d recommend getting a ratcheting 10mm wrench. Unfortunately I didn’t have one that fit, I tried swivels, I tried everything and ended up having to use a regular wrench.
I have this BOV on my Elantra N DCT Auto as well and love the way it sounds! The bigger the boost pressure... the louder the blow off! Sounds great with windows down. Pair this with the AFE Takeda "Stage 2" open box air intake system and AFE Takeda non resonated mid pipe exhaust like I did and you N mode will sound sick! 😎🤙🚗💨
Comment for the algorithms. I'm happy to see people having fun with newer cars! I remember doing these things 25 years ago and having a blast. ...also, gesundheit!
A couple of things about this install: 1) Contrary to the vid, the hardest bolt to remove is the one on the top, left when looking down into the engine compartment. It's also the hardest to put back on as there simply is no room to turn it more than less than 1/4" at a time. Maybe even less. it's super time consuming and makes the entire thing take way longer than it should. 2) When putting on the Boomba valve, it's easier to put all 4 bolts in the holes of the valve when trying to line them up, because, again, there is no space for that top left bolt to maneuver.
Great content as usual and now I'm gonna look into one of these. I was just looking at badge skins site the other day. That chemical guys kit is a great assortment, coming from a detailer since the 90s
I didn't mean to send that yet but I still like your BOV! I have a question for you guys. First, I have a Kona N so don't hold that against me please! This is the best N channel that I've seen and Brandon is really good on camera. His installation videos are great! Okay, enough ego stroking 😁 here's my question...when you purchased your Elantra (or Kona), did your salesperson ever talk about road hazard on your tires? I've purchased a few cars in my time, I'm 62 years old...but obviously I'm 21 at heart! Anyway, my Kona has 3,600 miles on it. About 1500 miles ago, I noticed a small separation on the sidewall of a tire, basically a bubble. I finally took it to the dealer and he pulled my information up on the computer. He said I didn't have road hazard protection and that I was going to have to pay for the tire to the tune of $265. I almost told him to stick it up his you know what but I didn't because you never know what you're going to need from your dealer. I have never had a conversation about road hazard with any dealer that I've ever purchased a car from. Including this one. It's just one more thing in the long list of problems we're hearing about these N vehicles. I'm just curious if anyone bought road hazard, if it was even brought up during the sales process (and if not) what you would do if you were faced with the same situation. Thanks guys, Thanks Brandon!
Thanks for the kind words Max, thank you so much for the support! When I bought my EN, I was very clear with my dealer that I didn’t want any add ons, so none of the extra warranties were even offered at my request. However, the road hazard protection for the wheels and tires would have been the one add on I would have purchased if I have it more thought, especially knowing how expensive these tires and wheels are.
Thanks Brandon. My transaction was kind of a wham bam thank you ma'am, kind of deal. The dealer had one Kona N in black which is exactly what I wanted. The salesman walked up and started to discuss things and I just said I want that and pointed to the Kona. I had already driven a Kona N Line so I knew what it drove like. I did take it for a test drive but it had 10 miles on it and drove just the way I expected. We made the deal. The whole thing took a half an hour with the salesperson and about forever with the finance guy! But there was never mention of any extras because there were none. I think there's one option on the Kona but I honestly don't know, it's been a few days (bought in early March). Anyway, I just think a car with 3,600 miles on it blowing out a $300 tire should be covered (it hasn't blown yet but the bubble continues to grow, it's just a matter of time and I'm about half afraid to drive the damn thing). He said I hit a pothole so it was my fault. That really pissed me off cuz I think I would know if I hit a pothole, and I haven't. It's a great little car it's just that this ruins the experience a little... especially since I'm shopping for winter tires and wheels, those aren't cheap! I know, you know that! One last question and I'll leave you alone, how did you get your timer to work? I noticed in one of your recent videos that the timer was working. I never have figured that out. Maybe if I can't figure it out I shouldn't be driving the car!
@@maxhunt2644 i opted for it, and they charged me for it, and then didnt include it on the final receipt i signed so they refused to get me a new one when my tire got a nail in it at 300 kms. Had to pay 600$ for a new michelin ps4s
When I went the last time to the dealer for a maintenance check, they found in my two rear tires I had 2 spikes in each, they asked me if I had the Road Hazard, I told them I didn't know, they searched the system and told me that I didn't have one, and that where the nails were they couldn't be fixed, that each tire cost me $330 dollars each without balance and mount, that they were going to call me when they had them available, I told him ok. The week after I went to a tire store and they fixed my tires for $20 each, to this day. What I did was that I bought 4 tires for $100 dollars at Walmart, the Cosmo Mucho Macho, they are 300 of treaware, temp A and AA traction I have tried it before and for daily use they are very good they are not Michelin but they hold more or less the same.
Just installed the valve today (finally) after some long work and frustration and I immediately noticed that when I started driving in N mode, I got more pops and they were louder. I’m so sure it’s not a placebo effect… it definitely feels like I get more pops in normal mode and that there are just straight up more of them in N mode. Who knows though. I’m just really happy with the blow off already, so this was a nice surprise for me ❤
That just means your tune is wrong. It's a closed loop system. You turned it into an open loop system. Pops means your ecu has no clue what to do under vacuum/initial boost so it's dumping fuel into the engine or starving the engine. You kids need to learn mapping before you start playing with things. This isn't me bashing you, this is me trying to educate you so you don't blow your expensive engine lol. Go get a retune. Then thank me later 🙌💪
@@Lord_Pistachio_Nutthe pops are anti lag that Albert Bierman took from current n cars ..if you don't know then don't speak and seek knowledge..unless every single n car is tuned from the factory wrong 😂😂🤡🤡
Lord's comment completely flew over your head. It's not a placebo, it's your ECU expecting air when it's really being blown off, so the fuel is still being added. That is what is giving you more and louder pops. You need to get a tune to account for the blown off air unless you want your engine to be toast eventually.@@fusrodahing1993
@@ENtense don’t be good sir, it’s a good thing. You actually make it easier for me to find the correct parts. From rim size, interior lighting & etc. After I get that mud flap I might get this blowout valve lol
The more I watch your videos the more I want the EN, I always tell myself "someday". After I get done with college and get that big boy job thats going to be my 2nd big purchase, house/studio is first :))
Pro tip - when putting nuts back on, I superglue them inside the socket (just a drop) which helps avoid trying to wriggle your fingers down with a tiny nut in your hand. Pop it on, wiggle socket, it breaks free.
It will maybe be Rich for a spilt second for sure and in long run from what I been ready. Could foul spark plugs and catalytic converter. I plan to run a air/fuel ratio gauge
I’m no mechanic so I was wondering when removing that hose and replacing it with the bypass valve, what was the hose’s purpose and why do you need the bypass valve?
It's a recirc tube for emissions. Makes the factory diverter valve quiet. Basically shoots air back into the air intake. Factory boost leak in my opinion since air leaks out of it like crazy during boost leak test..
Two observations. So the EN uses a flat panel air filter? My VN uses a round air filter. These do sound pretty cool when they vent to atmosphere, but an after market BOV does void the engine warranty as it affect the A/F delivery. Or so they say. I sound like a cranky old man there, I know.
Hey Arthur! Chiming in here, our BOV is a full replacement and is designed to maintain stock A/F ratios and hold boost most consistently than the stock unit. It's also lifetime warrantied and can hold up to 75psi of boost! Let us know if you have any more questions!
It’s truly been great so far. Beyond all the recalls, I have 0 complaints. I often get bored with cars quickly the older I’ve gotten, but even being in my 30’s I can say this car is just as fun today, as it was the day I bought it.
I'm not sure if you covered this already but I haven't seen any mention of your muffler setup. Your Elantra has the perfect amount of noise emitted from it. You hit a sweet spot.
I don't know what the N cars have as far as the RCV solenoid, but us 1.6T peeps that have used a BOV find that it works fine for a few months, then the solenoid has a hard time keeping up and throws a CEL. Look out for that. Most of us end up swapping out the stocker with a MAC or a Pierburg.
Hi! For 13+ Veloster Turbo models, while we can't speak for other manufacturers, we've sold hundreds already over the past 5+ years, without issues as you're describing.
Love your videos however a blow off valve that vents into the atmosphere is illegal here in Australia and also they decrease performance because the air that blows off is supposed to force the turbo spool to spool up in between gears.
Would have been interesting to hear the difference between the BOV and just disconnecting the recirculating hose & plugging the intake. I did that on my Elantra Sport & it sounds just the same as your BOV, but for free. I know, a BOV looks better though. 😄 Just a free tip for anyone who wants the same sound.
Dont mind me just came here to vent a little. I just drove an hour to go look at a "New" 2022 Sonata N-Line that was surprisingly on discount (figured since it was old stock they wanted to move it, only $1200 off). They had the car, but it wasn't on the lot since the sales manager left it at home. He'd been driving it as a "demo car" and put 700 miles on, yet here they are trying to sell it as new without even mentioning that in the listing. So yet again I get snubbed on buying one.
Those demo cars are quite common, however you have every right to be frustrated with them. Clarity doesn’t often exist at most Hyundai dealers unfortunately. They’ll likely beat the crap out of that car until it’s sold, put a few dings in it as well and sell it to someone who just doesn’t know any better.
@@ENtense Yeah I mean all they had to do was mention it on the website,but they dont want to scare away customers. But yeah I highly doubt dude followed the 600 mile break in, probably been romping on it left and right.
What’s your thoughts on converting internal to external waste gate? Usually cars are turned for the former, meaning the air (and therefor fuel) are added into the AFR calcs. You can potentially run rich for a second when the air is blown off externally and your computer fuels in expecting air
That's what most people think is "cool" about their poorly tuned turbo cars these days lol. Kids love the pops, because expensive cars with ANTI LAG SYSTEMS give those sounds. But it's actually very dangerous and can cause thousands of dollars worth of headache lol. I'd recommend a remap or tune after converting to atmospheric purge vs internal purge. It's not much different than trying to run an N/A car with the MAF sensor unplugged - sure it might sound more growly but you're ruining everything lol.
Do you have a "Pros and Cons" of buying your EN? I'm a Mopar guy....but I see the EN and wonder if it'll be better getting a new EN or a used Charger....🤷🏾♂️
Doesn’t really sound as loud, maybe just in video as you said. Does it matter if in regular mode vs N mode? Volume wise. I wanna run gfb on mine same I had on my es 🤓
It sounds cool but going VTA with a MAF sensor car really mess with A/F ratios and drivability especially after shifting. If you start noticing black smoke, your A/F is going really rich. Recirculating is much better but you lose the sound.
Hello! Boomba here! This BOV will not affect your A/F ratio. The Elantra N (along with all other N vehicles) operate off the MAP sensor not MAF and venting into atmosphere does not affect the vehicle in a negative way. Our BOV holds boost up to 75psi and will help keep boost consistent. The Magnuson-Moss Act exists to prevent you from getting denied warranty claims unless the part installed has been proven to be the direct cause of the issue and this unit will not affect your A/F ratio, your vehicle will operate the same as stock.
All are welcome to join 🙏🏻. Any items that would typically need to be shipped would be replaced with something else in case the winner is outside of the US 👌🏻
I'm on a spending freeze on my N, but that Boomba BOV w/ the discount is tempting! I wonder how it sounds compared to the SXTH one. Does the BOV sound when the DCT is shifting on it's own under boost, or only if you let off the gas during driving?
You really only hear it when you let off the gas, which is good meaning it’s holding its boost pressure even between gears. Sounds much better in person, these videos truly don’t do justice. And as far as the difference between this and SXTH’s I truly couldn’t tell you without hearing both.
@@cindysue5474 So since I have the SXTH cold air intake w/ the plug (no tube going into intake), I should probably go w/ the Boomba instead of the SXTH BOV?
The DCT holds boost through gear changes so the BOV sound only goes when letting off of gas similarly to no-lift shift in a manual car. Let us know if you have any more questions!
I’m interested in buying a 2022 or 23 Stringer GT Line which has the same 2.5 turbo motor as Electra N. Do you know if this brand of BOV makes one for a Stringer?
Hey awesome videos btw, i had a question im in the process of buying a Elantra N and this is one of the modifications that i would love to do but would it void my warranty?
It doesn’t void your warranty, but with any aftermarket part you’re technically installing them at your own risk, but this isn’t something I’d be concerned about
What is your views with Hyundai as a brand & business practice with cars catching fire and warranty not covering it & the California situation with sound of the Elantra N. I own 22 SEL PLUS sonata and I Love my car I try tell my friends they been doing it up but after this idk anymore makes me feel like I would switch back to Toyota.
With these issues going on, would this impact your future ownership as a Hyundai owner? Also forgetting to mention how Hyundai didn’t want to help their own tech with the car “revving” at 8k when it can’t reach that.
The Cali situation has a lot of issues with it, but that’s mostly to blame on the police and state ref. As far as Hyundai goes itself, I feel they need to start stepping up more as a brand, and stand behind their products. I love my EN, no plans on getting rid of it. But it may effect my future purchases.
Sounds great man! Hopefully you know, though, you're giving up on some fuel efficiency with the bov. When the air comes in the intake, it gets counted by the maf, bpv routes excess from turbo back into intake to maintain fuel/air ratio. With bov, air that was already counted gets dumped to atmosphere but ecu still sends in fuel for that air so you're running rich every time you blow off air. If you get a cold air intake sometime down the line, you should switch back to the bpv because you'll get the same blow off sounds with a less noise dampening intake but you won't run rich and lose that gas mileage
That's what I did on my elantra n line - cold air intake with stock bpv and I was getting turbo blow off noises in the cabin actually louder than than in your video!
The engine runs on a MAP sensor not a MAF. What your saying is true for MAF scaled car. But like I said this car runs from a MAP sensor. Simply just look at your engine and you can see there no MAF sensor on the intake.
Hi Andrew! The N vehicles are MAP tuned and not MAF tuned so your A/F ratio remains the same. We do recommend an intake in combination with our BOV to get the best turbo noises. Happy to help with any more questions!
@@BoombaRacing So why does the Elantra N have that recirc tube then to shoot air back into the intake? Just to keep things quiet? I did a boost leak test on my EN.. car is bone stock and it was shooting air out like crazy over 5 psi on the recirc tube from the OEM diverter valve 😵💫
@@ENtense not true. Do a little research and you will find that an aftermarket blow off valve as well as inter cooler will void your warranty. And believe me they will “prove” your mods caused the damage
@@slimv3.162 bro I blew my turbo at 3100 miles brought it in with a jb4 attached and front mount they warrartied it all..after calling me to remove the jb4 so they could take pics if hyundai corporate wanted them
@@slow_rednline4874 lucky you but that is definitely not normal. I’ve personally seen multiple cases denied warranty repair because of aftermarket mods involving engine or turbo components. Mod at your own risk.
Hello! Boomba here! We wanted to pop in here and say that the BOV will not affect your A/F ratio. These vehicles (along with all other N vehicles) operate off the MAP sensor not MAF and venting into atmosphere does not affect the vehicle in a negative way. Our BOV is designed to hold boost better than the stock unit. Warranty service can only be denied if the part is deemed as the cause of the failure. Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Chiming in here, our BOV is a full replacement, no tune required and is designed to maintain stock A/F ratios and hold boost most consistently than the stock unit. It's also lifetime warrantied and can hold up to 75psi of boost! Let us know if you have any more questions!
Our BOV is tested to hold up to 75psi of boost and is designed to hold boost significantly better than the plastic stock unit. Your A/F ratio remains the same and you can get the beautiful sounds ENtense showed off in this vid! :)
@@kameronkuhn6042 Hi! Our BOV does not affect the factory A/F ratio and does not require a tune, it is safe to run and we've sold hundreds in the past 5 years with no ill-effect. Thanks for your interest!
Hi, chiming in here!! This BOV will not cause your car to run richer or leaner, there are some vehicle manufacturers that this may apply to but modern Hyundai/Kia vehicles are not going to be affected by this because they are MAP tuned and not MAF. The cheap plastic unit is 100% recirculating. Let us know if you have any more questions!
@@BoombaRacing coming from a 10 th gen civic si there is so much debate on this subject, majority of it negative, therefore my question, appreciate the response
Hello! Boomba here! We wanted to pop in here and say that the BOV will not affect your A/F ratio. These vehicles (along with all other N vehicles) operate off the MAP sensor not MAF and venting into atmosphere does not affect the vehicle in a negative way. Please let us know if you have any more questions!
Hello! We wanted to pop in here and say that the BOV will not affect your A/F ratio. These vehicles (along with all other N vehicles) operate off the MAP sensor not MAF and venting into atmosphere does not affect the vehicle in a negative way. Ours is designed to hold up to 75psi and will hold boost more consistently than the stock unit. Please let us know if you have any more questions!
@@klasseact6663 its a high pitched whistle sound and at low boost sounds like a normal bov, but you can always remove the insert to change sound, its a unique bov because its a pull type.
@@trentbolognani2509 It's definitely NOT just for sound. A BOV is there to release air that's trapped in your intercooler pipe when you let off the throttle and the throttle plate on the throttle body closes. It vents the air so that the trapped air doesn't start going backwards towards your turbocharger and causing air to surge through the compressor wheel. If this happens, it can possibly force the turbine wheel to start spinning in reverse and messing up the turbochargers air flow and all the good stuff the turbo needs to do lol.