So I haven't read through all the comments so if someone addressed this already then I'm sorry but I have a wrecker service and I've been in business for 17 years and as a very ocd person I only use oem parts or performance upgrades I can say I've experimented with all sorts of balance ideas from putting balance beads in the tire itself to standard wheel weight balancing to actually having the tire trued yes that is correct and not a typo and then the tire is balanced while on the truck using a strobe light and I high speed spin type machine and so that is by far the best option and only way to get an actual perfectly round tire balanced to the hub however there aren't that many shops left that still do that and what I've found is what your doing with the centramatics is about the best option you have HOWEVER I would suggest leaving the weights ON the rim.. The reason is that the centramatic balances can only go so far with balancing before it becomes ineffective should the balance of the tire exceed the limitations of the balancer... I'll explain for example I run 19.5 tires and normally it takes anywhere from 3.5 ounces to 8 ounces of tire weights combined between the inside and outside of the tire so of you already start with a reasonably balanced assembly then the centramatics balancer then just has to compensate for tire wear and like you mentioned a rock on the tread or even the hub bearing as is may not be perfectly True whereas if you remove the weight and let's say it's 4 ounces then now you may be maxxed out at what it can do right out of the gate so it will be useless to have them on... I tried the very thing you did and pulled the weights off and it rode worse so after rebalancing the tire then putting it back on with the centramatics it was buttery smooth and I've done that ever since and it works fantastic... I do still have the tires cut prior to balancing but that just accommodates for tires not being perfectly round and if there's an imperfection in the rim itself to get the best balance possible.. Now if you don't like the weight where it is you can get stick on weights that are less noticeable but personally I hate black wheels I prefer aluminum chrome or simulators but I suppose that's personal preference because wheels will inevitably get scratched nicked and gouged plus the weights scrtach them and tires shops are rarely gentle with them but either way I hope this helps
Great tip, thank you. A viewer helped me discover the Hunter RoadForce Elite balancing in conjunction with the Centramatics that really helped refine ride. I learned not all balancing machines are equal: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F4DGLj0C8lg.html
Another point on the location of the weights the tire shop put on, when properly rotating the tires on a DRW truck, the same wheel will be both concaved and convex face to the outside over the course of the tire life. With that being the case, it is virtually impossible to never present the weights at some point without rebalancing the wheels at every tire rotation.
Another good video. The torque on the wheel nuts is 129 ft/lbs. That is what the recall was all about. This was due to Chrysler switching to metric studs in 2012 which are slightly smaller in diameter. Of course they forgot to update all the tech and owner's manuals. When they realized the error last year, they issued a recall for thousands of trucks to make sure the studs were not stretched. Only duallies were effected. Also wheel studs should be torqued in a cross pattern.
Very well composed and comprehensive video!!! I was one the guys that pointed you in the centramatic direction in that video and your reply was that you had never heard of them. Glad to see you gottem and I’m sure you will be completely satisfied with them! FYI, most of the guys I have a had a dialogue on these, remove the weights off the rims. I took them off of mine as well. We full time in a 5ver and have came across a few folks with 5vers that run them on their coach…they swear by them for the trailer tires in addition to the truck.
I used to put my rims on the spin balancer by themselves without the tire. This way I could see if the rims are bad. I bet if you did that to those rims you might be surprised. Great Videos Thank You 🙏
Another good video! I was going to put the centramatic balancers on my truck but went a different route. I run balancing beads in all my tires. It works really well and does not require the weights as well. If you want to improve your ride, check Sulastic Shackles. I've been running these for years and install them on every truck I buy.
Another good informative video! I would say if I added these, I like to remove all the wheel weights for appearance reasons (atleast for the outer front and rear). I mean what's the point if you still need wheel weights when using these? Either way, hope it does what it suppose to so all your wheel weight can come off.
Great video brother,, i hope u don't mind for me to point out,, i have the same tires just a bit larger size , they have a downside , that is, directional rotation and your driver side tires are rotating backwards ,, i said downside because u just can't rotating them back to front and when they rotate backwards they ride bumpy and they started to age uneven , check them out it does have an arrow for driving rotation 👍
Those centramatics are a very expensive mask to a simple solution. I would have gone to a tire shop that has a Hunter road force balancer and road forced the tires to measure run out. I had issues with two different sets of Falkens (and I’m not picking on them) but it was minimized when I had the tire shop road force. Also on duallies they should counter mount meaning (mount them with the weights opposite each other)
That noise for me is not something I would want. I recommend re-torque of the wheels after about 100 miles....you will be surprised to find sometimes they loosen up. There is a note about this in the Emergency section of my 2017 Ram Dually owners manual about if a tire is removed to re-check the torque....I think it should also be in the maintenance section. When I had my Michelins put on they were not balanced very well. I had to bring my truck in for a recall and the dealer rebalanced them and they have been perfect ever since. You are right about the weights on the inside and/or outside. One thing about the black wheels are the marks from the weights. I hope you saved those weights and marked where they were located...you should be able to re-install them.... I bet you will want them back on :)
After about 6K miles of using the wheel balancers, I found that they didn’t help much with my Continental tires on my Ram 3500 DRW pickup. The problem was, the Continental highway tires were made out of round with high and wobbly spots in / on the tires. After about 15 rebalances at Americas / Discount Tire, the manager, in. Jacksonville NC, discovered the Continental tire problem. So they replaced the front set that was bouncing the steering wheel and floorboard. These tires require two (2) ounces of wheel per tire. The Centrematics don’t have enough weight inside to balance these tires. The manager recommended taking them off because thought they might be interfering with the balance. I left them on the hope that they’ll help with these poorly made tires. So, keep the wheel weights on as the Centramatics might not have enough weight to compensate for bad tires. I wonder what one balancer would do behind each dually tire? That would be four on the rear axle.
Great feedback, thank you. I found mine needed a higher, more-precise balancing via Hunter Road Force Elite: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F4DGLj0C8lg.html
@@AdventureRocks Thank you, that was the machine. I NEVER had this problem with the Nexim (sp) tires. Nexum wore out in 12 months of full time RV towing at just about 33K miles. I’m going to return, probably several times to get the free balancing with this company. Part of the problem might be that the young employees are continually pressed for time to get the customers in and out quickly. I always have to closely inspect for minor things before I leave the business.
Getting a rebalance again. Was told they’re going to use only one Hunter Elite machine to rebalance all the tires. And the one that was most recently calibrated. The tech said each machine reports varying tolerances. At high volume tire stores, these machines are used continuously, six days a week. We’ll see what happens.
@@jbwilliams7058 Oh good, hopefully that'll fix it. I think the Hunter Road Force Elite are the best of best from what I understand. So good, OEMs require dealers to have them on site.
i been running my centramatics without the weights on wheels tires are wearing evenly on my ram 2500 , i recomend no weights per centramatic instructions
Thank you for weighing in. Before purchasing I was reading in a lot of forums online with dually truck owners and lots of debate about whether to leave wheel weights on or off. Some very strong opinions on both sides. Sounds like manufacturer typically recommends removing them, but in some cases not. So far I don't have any regrets removing the wheel weights in my case...definitely have a lot more confidence in the centramatics balancing vs static weights at least.
The reservations you have had should be forgotten before long! I've been rolling Centramatics on trucks for almost four decades! Heavy trucks with tires with many plys, especially luggy tires, are well-suited for Centramatics. IME, have the rears road force balanced and run the Centramatics after. Heavy ply, modern truck tires are all lousy out of the molds and need a lot of weight to run true, and imagine two spinning eccentricities that aren't clocked to counter one another. They can be well in excess of what the sandwiched Centramatic can make up. Further. The inner and outer wheels are different material, different weight, and different quality. True them on the balancer and then the Centramatics can handle the rest. You probably won't like the look, but if you really want exceptional life out of the rear tires, run Crossfires. That is, if the truck will be working most of the time versus not. As for hearing the sound of the beads. It's not your ANC in the cab. Cannot hear them in the closed cab in my 2015 either. Sure, you can hear them low speed and windows down, but I honestly cannot ever remember anyone looking funny at my trucks or asking me about any sounds. Personally, I wouldn't care if they did because the ride quality is what matters to me! I have often wondered why they don't incorporate similar into truck driveshafts, particularly those like mine with two parts and a carrier bearing. Can be an absolute bear getting a vibration out of this type type of setup... Guess how I know!
Thanks for weighing in! And, thanks for recommendation on the Crossfire Tire Pressure Equalization system. Will have to research further in the future. Interesting concept.
I'm very curious and patiently waiting on a follow up, hoping it'll come soon. I'm currently strongly debating on getting these as I've already had my local tire shop balanced mine 3 times already but still getting some vibration over 45mph. I'm in hopes that this will be the answer. TIA
Yes, I've been thoroughly exploring options before I come back with my full review, but I'm just about ready. Just want to make sure I'm giving solid advice so apologize in advance for the delay in doing a follow-up. Should have 2 separate videos coming later this month. It's been a learning experience. My recommendation is to try locating a local shop that has a Hunter Road Force Elite balancer in their shop. It's a $25K machine that seems to be the best of the best when it comes to balancing and giving options and delivering accuracy. They have a tool you can locate one nearby here (check "elite" only): www.hunter.com/find-equipment/? Basically I'd recommend getting your tires balanced on one of those machines first...then if you still have the issue I think the centramatics will likely solve the remaining. For me I went backwards and did the opposite (centramatics first, then Hunter RF Elite) and I'm at 10 of 10 ride quality now. I'd say the centramtics alone did a phenomeonal job alone without weights on my wheels, but in a few circumstances I could feel imbalance. So given the $$ with centramtics I'd do the Hunter RF Elite first, then look at centramatics as secondary means to finish off any remaining imbalance. Hope this helps!
@Adventure Rocks that is perfect! Thank you for responding so quickly. I'm currently sitting here at Discount Tires for the 3rd/4th time hoping they can balance it right. My shaking comes at around 45mph + but nothing before then really. Again super appreciative for your response and if this last attempt to balance it is a fail I will definitely look into a location with that specific balancing machine.
@Adventure Rocks ok....update, figured you want to know. Anyways, as stated my reply before this that I was at Discount Tire waiting yet once again in hopes to have my front tires balanced. During the process (somehow...this was missed the last several times) that both my front tires are not perfectly round. They are ordering me 2 new tires. Now I'm curious if the rear 4 are ok as all 6 could of been from a bad batch. Which I'm hoping is unlikely as these are a pretty well known brand ( Toyo AT3s).
I *think* it was a Rustoleum all-in-one enamel, satin if I recall...just a ~higher grade spray paint essentially. My apologies as it was a while ago I did this. But, I prepped by wiping down with degreaser and no chipping or flaking...I sold last Fall and they were all still in great shape.
I was concerned about that, so I made up a diagram for tire shops. You can get a free copy in the description or comments in the video link below: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-F4DGLj0C8lg.htmlsi=cL7Z2TtToY8ItLRc
I have not, yet. I've considered it, but have some concerns about another potential failure point or leaks. So instead I've been using the following 3 items to reach inner wheel: Valve cap remover - amzn.to/3JtLcX3 Air chuck - amzn.to/3pkcrwf Pressure gauge - amzn.to/43YDE6K Of course they work on the other tires too. With a little practice it becomes pretty easy to check/inflate.
Yes, also curious here. Plan to report back in a couple months after I get more miles on them with a consensus. Almost have to evaluate on smoother interstates at 65mph+ as hard to tell and isolate wheel balance if you're hitting expansion joints and old road repairs.
So far really liking them. I have to put more mileage at higher speeds on smooth interstate to really get a good feel for them. But, so far I'm not regretting taking off the wheel weights.
@@AdventureRocks I ordered a set for my Chevy, they should be here Friday. I called Centramatic and they told me to leave my weights on since my tires are already balanced. They said if everything was smooth I could leave them, they said if you get any vibration that you might have to remove the weights. They said to spin new tires to make sure they aren’t out of round but not to balance them.
Certainly beads are another option there...some pros and cons of course. Have not used them myself, but gather they're a cheaper solution with decent results, but perhaps not quite as effective in end compared to centramatics. Again, beads are still another viable options, but canot speak further on them.
Awesome. Satin? They look gloss. I’ll be towing as well so I was worried about the temperature but I’ll take your word for it. Primer before or just straight paint? I’ll be doing this in the morning. I picked up gloss thinking this might be better cause you can see my internals through my rims.
@@07THE19 I think sometimes the satin starts to look glossy after several light coats. I forget which exact enamel I used but it was likely a mid-grade Rust-Oleum for metal with a primer built in. Has held up great on mine so far.
@@AdventureRocks Good info. I’m still debating whether to leave old weights on or take off. I figure leaving balance weights on would be ok and the centramatics would still work as intended on the Duallys rear tires.
Very minor, but plan to touch-up soon. More residue from oxidation perhaps on the finish. Surprisingly the OEM wheels came with wheel weights on outside all wheels from RAM factory when I took delivery of truck in 21 with the factory Nexen ATs. It's a truck though, so with a little touch-up it'll be almost as good as new.
That back passenger wheel is all scuffed up from the weight. Now imaging having to look at a new scuffed spot on your rim Everytime you got new tires or rebalanced. Rim won’t look pretty for long. This is my only peev about external lip weights. Plus the are clip on, and they can and do fling off frequently.
Haven't had a chance to clean the wheels up, but I think it's more surface stain from the original weights that sat on their 1.5+ years, then some minor scuffing. Think most will buff out, but I may come back and touch up gloss black with what is left. Really it's a truck so when all is said and done it'll be almost as good as new. Just greateful to have the truck!
@@AdventureRocks good looking truck. I was unsure of the color at first, just because I’m ocd, and I thought maybe this color would show swirl marks like crazy. Test drove exact configuration as a yours and same color, drove great and the paint still looked good. Swirl Marks weren’t as bad as I’d assumed they’d be on such a dark color. Im ordering my 2023 limited dually with the night package. 108k is alittle hard to swallow but it is what it is
