Looks like you guys had fun learning from your trial and errors. Thanks a lot for all the tips and introducing the new handy tools. At least they're new to me.
Matt Risinger uses the sausage tubes. You don’t have to cut off the end… just pierce the end several times (4-5). Then put three cap on and there will be enough open surface area to allow for seepage. Makes way less of a mess.
8:10 how about wrapping some duct tape around the end, not all the way to the edge, so you don't get splinters? Do that on both edges you plan to strike with the hammer.
A solution for the disadvantage to the pro tip you gave us about getting splinters from hitting the board too much. What if you guys tape the end of the board where you are hitting it? Should stop splinters from happening. I would think.
How impressed were the Perkins guys with the cordless staple gun after using it? Knowing how many times the air lead gets dragged through the glue on an average daily Perkins vid (or Erik standing in the glue!!!) Erik, try using a good sharp set of side cutters for your sausage gun ends. Not only is a clean cut but you only need one hand to open it. Try building a 75ft boats every day where you can use 10-12 cases of sausages and you soon find a better way...!!! Lastly who else thinks that the Perkins crew are just the nicest, funniest guys to work with! Honestly even the most crap jobs can be made better with the best people around you
To avoid tearout when using the jigsaw try putting duct tape over where you need to cut. Alternatively buy a pack of laminate blades for the jigsaw. These cut on the downstroke instead of the upstroke.
Don't measure. Place the board that needs to be cut exactly on top of the board that is in place. Take a scrap board, same width, and use that to mark the cut. Use a square to figure the length of the cut. If you are cutting a jamb, make several marks. Not sure if this makes sense, but it works for all vinal, wood plank, and ceramic installations. It has worked for me for years, and I just finished the hallway and living room of my latest home. Since it is finish work, there will probably trim, so don't sweat the small stuff.
I put this type of flooring in my Kitchen 30 years ago with all glue. When the dishwasher flooded it ruined it near the dishwasher. Luckily I had dual subfloor 1/2 OSB with 5/8 Ply on top. I cut the floor and ply into 1 foot squares and pried the floor and the plywood up to replace the floor. I now have tile.
You can get a cheap flooring jack for the last few rows at lumber liquidators. I paid $15 for it a few years back and it’s still going strong after at least 100 floors
What is the brand/stain color of the engineered flooring you used and where did you obtain it? I'm looking for5" engineered hardwood in a light brown color which looks a lot like what you have here.
Glazier for years, I just whack the end of the tube on the toe part of my boots, a couple times and the metal ring comes right off. No dirty knife blade.
Glazier as well, do it every day like that. Only ever seen it go wrong once on a guy, he whacked it too hard and it broke in the middle over his boot on a finished floor 🥲
Nice work, You don't comment on why use engineered hardwood instead of hardwood. Is the engineered wood cheaper? I have used it on a concrete slab before but not a timber subfloor.
It is typically cheaper, but I like how dimensionally stable it is compared to hardwood. Every board was dead flat so installation was really easy. You can't sand and refinish as many times but I don't see myself really doing that anyway.
Wondering why you didn’t use a thin underlay to reduce walking noise or echo & a standard nailer. Also if you flip the jigsaw upside down & cut from below this prevents the surface from chipping.
They also make down cut blades where the teeth angle is opposite to an up cut blade should you feel you don’t want to break your wrists using this method 😂
Flooring's dirty little secret is how to get those pieces installed in those weird places since the angles and directions are near impossible to do. haha
If you glue the floor and nail it why do you need a gap for the working, shrinking or expand of wood ??? It's so stuck to the underfloor it can't move or shrink or expand or i'm thinking wrong ??
Isn't it unnecessarily when you nail and glue? I would either glue OR nail it. Here in Germany it is also common to lay it floating, without gluing and nailing.
The tongue on this material isn't very thick and the staples can pull through over time. Adding the glue is really just a little added insurance and doesn't add much work to the install.