Cam lobes have some work to do, with inertia, rods & springs. All 'sudden lift' or 'done with now'' just thin oil to dampen things. For yon lumpy shaft revolveth on, fine needles round & flat, in circle rows within their cage, (a bit like us, in that), where mighty pressures ride in turn, the lube must take up slack as too much movement due to wear, can send those pulses back. - Nutshell wise: 'Old needles just get lairier, 'cos they've sod all contract area' - always fit gnu.* (*Large furry quadruped, well known for bearing up to pressures beyond the wit of man, best machined when stiff : )
I have bought a cheap chinese knock off of the bearing tool on ebay for around 50 dollars. It works perfectly! I had to pull out a destroyed INA bearing. So to make sure, that as less debris from the bearing falls into the crank case as possible, I pressed the slotted end of the puller together, before inserting. No mallet hits needed. Just carefully pushed in the rod, that spread the slotted end. Thank you very much for uploading your Videos!
Holy shit Mike, it's 102 degrees in my back yard today, 90 in the garage, I'd go down to the beach but I think it's hotter there!?!? WTF! Oh, scored a nice set of OEM tanks for the 50 :).. Sweet.
I have dropped a pile of cash on tools for my evo project. Kinda expensive starting from scratch, but very satisfying to be able to do something like this myself. Not to take anything away from a good mechanic, I just like being self sufficient. Great vid Mike...
Howdy Mike, Anything EVO is always an EDUCATION & helpful to see HOW you Do it / Did it Thanks for DRAGGING us along for the RIDE COOP ....................................................
Personal thank you. I could not find a video on how to use this type. I figured it out myself up until you wrench the spread bolt. Thank you so much. Saved me a lot a frustration
Had a friend of mine one time did not have the installation tool to put the bearing in and decided he was going to hammer it in ,,discombobulated the bearing and ended up with all the needles in the case and did it after being told repeatedly not to do it... the installation tool not only helps you to press it in but it also helps to keep the conformity of the bearing so it doesn't split the cases that hold the needles when you press it in a very necessary tool nice work Mike
I love my speed handle. Got started using those working on F4 Phantoms, and as a civilian aircraft mech, and I use it in the shop all the time. No batteries, fast, and you can feel exactly what the fastener is up to. Old dudes (and old tools) rule!
Always a day late and a dollar short I am. There is a duplicate of the bearing puller made in the States, CNC machined from American steel. I have one, it was $40 before sales tax. Check the Bay of Fleas. I do have a blind bearing puller of the slide-hammer type with different collets but am reluctant to use it even if that is what Harley recommended back in the day. These bearings, the INA type I think, have been known to come apart during removal and shrapnel in the cases is not a good thing. Mike is using a slow steady pull which I think isn't the shock or impact of the slide-hammer type and might ease the bearing out rather than jerking it out hopefully minimizing the possibility the bearing will come apart. Mike reminds me of my father. Knowledgeable, deliberate, thorough and meticulous. I admire his work ethic.
@@pacificmike9501 As a boy my father came home from his primary job in industry and after a bite to eat and maybe a quick nap he put in another shift in the garage. I still have most of his hand tools. I was just a boy and he had me cleaning piston ring grooves with his ring groove cleaner that I still have. I had a hard time getting them clean enough to suit him. I asked how clean they had to be? He said "Clean enough you'd be willing to eat off of it." He had a tin can like the ones cookies still come in at Christmas time. It was full of his alignment dowels. Yup, he cut the heads off bolts and hacksawed a screwdriver slot in the cut off end. Much has changed but some things never do. A very good mechanic (a journeyman) once said about people in a big hurry that they never have the time to do it right the first time, but they always have time to do it again to fix their mistakes. All my best...
Yes. It's our job to help create those memories for the next generation. They can move forward all they want with technology, but the very deepest, warmest, best stuff is still built with our hands.
It is such a rewarding experience to watch you work...Like a meditation. Thank you for your efforts to make those videos. I learn so much... God bless!
Your work is art Mike, thanks for the videos, learn something every time. If you have a opportunity could you tell us about the fork tensioner on your Shovelhead? I have never noticed one before, thanks
It is a reproduction of a stock steering damper (something all Harleys used to come with). I added it because I felt it may help me when I add a sidecar.
Buddy I hope you can use that cam bearing puller tool for a long time. Our clock has gone quite a few revolution's and we've made it through life's bump's in the road and have seen many friend's pass but we've got a whole lot more miles to travel before we go to the garage for the last time. I'm seriously thinking about selling my Street Glide and getting me a Evo Heritage Classic and watching you do this relaxing enjoyable job is stocking the fire in my old boiler room. Super video.👍
i have a 1997 FXLR.... just got a EV3 cam i am going to enjoy... going to R&R seal / cam bearing... new EZ S&S Push tubes and lifters... should take 2 hours to do the change out...
Thanks for this video Mike. Only one other vid on YT using a Harbor Fright 3 jaw puller (cringe). I now have a JIMS install tool and now feel confident about doing my EVO cam upgrade. Especially liked the "special tool" for opening the plastic baggy. PFTT SPIT PFTT. lol.
I know Mike won't approve, however: for the boys and girls who don't have a cam bearing installation tool, an old cam can be used to drive it in. Place the bearing on the cam, align it with the hole and gently smack the gear end of the cam. An old HD shop tech showed me that. The lesson cost me twenty bucks ☺
I've seen it done quite a bit. That bearing "case" or "shield" would much rather be "pressed" in. Proper tooling is expensive, granted, but well worth the expense. We all do what we have to. But, I try to do my best.
Mike. Did Harley go back to the better inner cam bearing in 1999 I purchased my retirement present ,a l1999 7,000 mile heritage wondering if bearing should be changed out ,cutting new teeth with working on Evos Thank you ,
Not a bad idea. In California, every Evo since 1988 had a California cam in it. So, since you were there anyway, they all got a new cam, a new bearing and a set of adjustable pushrods. You probably won't have a problem. But, if you're there, replace with a Torrington bearing.
I've had the pleasure of learning things from aircraft mechanics. They've been some of the most professional people I've known. In fact, my dad built P-38's at Lockheed during WWII.
Hey Mike . Noticed you drove that seal all the way back to stopping point. Does your bike have that little oil hole where the seal presses into? If so, is bottoming out the seal ok with that hole ? I've heard some guys say just flush with the front is all it should be driven in. Maybe the hole is why ? To lube the bushing ? Can you give me a straight direction to press in this seal. I have 83 wide glide with the oil hole for bushing. The hole is kinda on the shoulder so I'm confused here . Thanks Mike always go to your vids for enlightenment.
If you "feel" it and it is somooth and it has been changed to a proper Torrington type bearing (upgrade from the factory installed bearing), it is probably fine. I use a better bearing (the aftermarket suppliers carry them) and If I change a cam, or I'm doing any work inside the cam chest, I replace the cam bearing with a new one.
Cool. It is very important that you get any of the debris out. Realize that bearing bottoms against a lip in the case. Be extra careful not to damage that lip. Usually, you can't tell until opening the cam chest, that the bearing is bad. Noise from there is usually lifter rollers.
Could you list the parts and needed gaskets for this upgrade? im super interested in doing this to my 97 fatboy so any head start i can get is a bonus! these videos are great!
Coming along very nicely. New Cam, new Cam Bearing and Cam Seal. I take it the bronze bushing doesn't see much wear since it wasn't replaced. Can't wait to hear it run. Will there be a dyno episode to show what kind of HP and Torque it makes? Just wondering.
Your Videos are so Informative and very relaxing to watch Mike, thank for very much for taking the time to make them. Im installing a new cam in my 85 evo, i was thinking to replace the cam bearing with the Torrignton bearing, but it already has a Torrington bearing installed. I dont know how long ago it was installed, should i replace it with a new one whilst im in there?
Question, did Harley use INA cam bearings from 97,98,99 ??? What did you just remove? A INA bearing? I was told that 97 to 99 Harley used torr bearing. I have a 99 FLSTC EVO, so wondering if I need to change it with 11k on it . Great videos!
The problem really didn't exist on Evos until cams were changed. That's when the bearing got replaced with one that had a full compliment of rollers in it. I built Jim's motor years ago. At that time, I replaced the cam with something fun and, naturally, installed a new cam bearing. Well, I just did it again. Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501 haha this is true and I appreciate the confidence you instill in me.lol Not sure if you meant my brain or my motor.lol I think my motor is bone stock though given it didn't even have 5k on it when I bought it. 1owner and it sat mostly covered in a garage. Some surface rust was addressed when I got it but not much. Other then that she's been a great little machine. Just needs about twice the power.lol
Good evening Mr Pacific, cameraman Mike and Jim. Watching you work would be the equivalent of watching Pablo Picasso paint with his brush. I have a 2002 Mikuni Twin Cam 95" and the only oem piece in the top end are my plastic breathers, which I'll be replacing. I've heard good things about the "Mystfree Breather's", they also come with a drill bit to drill out the return holes a little larger in the plate. I also did an external head breather bypass so it's not being fed back into my carb. Do you have any experience with these or a recommendation? I don't get a lot of blow by but when I get on it or drive long distances on the highway above 80mph, I get a little, I just need it to breathe slightly better. Fueling makes some as well but unless you tell me otherwise, I'm going to try the "Mystfree". Thanks for listening Mike, you're the best. Take care of yourself sir.
I've done a lot of breather work on these. I'm not sure about all of the available products. I like to give them dual breather hoses though. You have to route them out in plain sight which isn't always pretty, but it sure does relieve pressure. Take care.
@@pacificmike9501 Yeah, my hoses are visible but I don’t mind, connections are covered by the S&S teardrop and dumps below at the shocks. This bypass made a nice difference, noticeable. Thanks Mike
Thank You. Normally, we replace them when we replace the cam. For some performance, the cam usually gets replaced early on. If you don't want to do it yet, you're probably fine.
Mike I have to ask because I am currently doing a top end on my 85 Softail standard and noticed that there are no breather bolts in the heads. So did the heads not need breather bolts in 85? Thank you sir for your outstanding content.
Early Evos (84 to I believe 90) breathed through the lower end out a hose from the crankcase down behind the oil pump. Later on, the head breathers were used (either 90 or 91 up). This change is to route the breathing into the air cleaner instead of into the atmosphere. All earlier Big Twins breathed out the bottom too.
Hey Mike, Can you discuss the various tappets that are offered in one of your next videos? The difference between Hydraulic and Solid Tappets and how to decide which is right for an engine over the other style? Do big cams, high volume oil pumps, roller rockers, or large top ends pumping out more HP make a difference on the tappets used? My ride is mainly stock with Hydraulic tappets but I run the higher RPM's in Montana where the speed limit is 70-80mph. I'll be buying new tappets soon but don't know which style is better for my 98 Evo...Thanks
I'm a big believer in hydraulic lifters. They're easier on the entire valve train. All of the name brand, high performance" hydraulic lifters that I've used are better than the originals. Knuckleheads and Panheads up to 1952 have to use solids. They have no provision (oil passage in the crankcase) to fill the lifter bodies. All the newer stuff? Hydraulic is the pleasant way to go. Roller rockers? Nice.
If a guy had a nose cone with peeling chrome could you replace that while doing a cam swap or is there more involved than simply swapping the cover? Thank you
Yes, there is more. The cam bearing in the case and the bushing in the cover. The pinion shaft and the bushing in the cover. You might get lucky and you might not. Those things are lined up with the cases bare from the inside of the right case.
@@pacificmike9501 so I may be better off to try to refinish the original cam cover then? I didn’t realize that was matched to the cases in such a tight tolerance. Thank you
I'm the one who wrenches on that sweety of Jim's. I put a Torrington bearing in there back in the nineties and I've replaced it for the new cam I just put in there.
@@pacificmike9501 Do you know if it came with a Torrington bearing from the factory? Just trying to figure out if I should open it up and find out. Thanks!
I've always changed them the first time I removed the cam cover. At the same time, I always added a cam that would do something. The factory uses a cam bearing which we always replace.
My 97 road king has the Morelli fuel injection. With your experience, does it make sense to pay the money to convert to carb? Is there a negative impact to doing this?
I've done it. It gets to the point of how you want it done. If you want it done like factory original, it will require an entire wiring harness and a modification to your fuel tank. Or, you can create your own wiring job, depending on how much "stuff" you want. Don't get me wrong, it's a great idea, just very labor intensive.
I've done them both ways. That bearing will lose its cold as soon as it contacts the case. And, it's a "slow install." Heating a head or a case and freezing a bushing or bearing really works if you're going fast.
hello. I am from Albania. I have an S & S engine (No. A09872) from 2000. I am looking for a catalog for installation instructions. can you suggest me where to look?
Hey Mike, I hate to bug you, but I can't tell from my manual if the rear exhaust support with the greater bend on my 75 fl goes to the primary side or the right side? Any help very much appreciated! Thanks keep on keepin on!
Okay. Here goes: the exhaust two into one header goes on. Coming in, behind the rear cylinder, from the left side, is a pipe that goes from the tee in the rear head pipe, over the back corner of the primary and down to the left muffler. That "crossover pipe" should also have a small bracket on it that bolts to the outer primary cover right by the starter solenoid.
I'm sorry Mike, I was referring to the supports that mount to the frame, to bolt the mufflers to. One has a greater offset than the other... I guess to offset the primary? Not the mufflers themself, just the support arms. I appreciate you so much, thanks!
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for your quick reply Mike, I think so too, although they could go on either side, they do have a different part number, and one seems to stick out board further, thanks again my friend!
Hi Mike love your work watch when ever i can. I have a question I have a1985 FXST 4 speed and want to fit a 1986 FXST 5 speed into the 4 speed frame is this difficult to achieve. I see you can purchase a 5 speed mounting plate to fit a 4 speed frame would really appreciate your impute regards john
Old age and wear, contamination, weak bearing, misalignment, improper endplay. We could go on for days. It is machinery. Anything can wear out or be improperly installed or flawed.
