Installed lowering springs from H&R on my 2018 Dodge Charger Thanks for watching! Instagram: @rtjoee / rtjoee Music by / ikson #lowered #springs #install
Looks great bro! Did you end up getting a wheel alignment after it was all said and done? I gotta get a couple tools but i will be installing mine today.
Thanks bro 🤝 I got a wheel alignment two months before deciding I want to drop the car...if I had made my mind up back then I would’ve waited until after but so far it’s been wearing evenly
That's what's up bro! Man, like I said I started putting mine on today and got stuck on the front wheel. That middle bolt won't tighten for me. It just keeps spinning. And nothing to hold it with on the other side. All the other bolts are snug but I can't snug that one. Suggestions?
You can either squeeze the rubber bushing just a little bit with a vice grip for it to catch or you can apply a little pressure to the bolt by lowering the jack a little (if you do the second method make sure to hand tighten the upper control arm bolt so it doesn’t fall back out)
It settled a little lower and I still have not scraped anything (I’m being careful about it). It’s a cool mod and it makes the stance of the car look aggressive. If you do lower your car, I suggest aligning after because of the drop. You can check out my Instagram story for an updated look @rtjoee
Awesome video!! Thanks for posting this. A question: Does the front cushion on the front struts need to be replaced? Does it have some kind of bearing or cushion that breaks or anything like that?
@@rtjoe more than likely will go with the springs have you had any problems scraping going over bulbs or anything like that? Also go drop a follow on ig @392club 🤟🏼
Great video man! I'm in Tampa if you ever cruise through again. Wondering if you have the torque specs for the rear bolts (all of them)? If not I'll keep looking, but figured I'd ask to save some time. Thanks!
@@cameronmartin428 Protip: TORQUE BOLTS/NUTS UNDER WEIGHT Front Torque Specs/Notes • Shock Absorber upper mounting nuts (under hood) - 13mm ○ Align them to original wear marks ○ Tighten to 20 ft/lbs • Upper ball joint mounting nut (use an Allen key in the middle to keep it from turning) - 2 Step - 18mm ○ Tighten to 35 ft/lbs ○ Then Tighten an additional 95 degrees • Stabilizer Link Upper Mounting Nut - 111 ft/lbs 21mm • Shock Absorber lower mounting bolt (bottom of strut) 18mm ○ Using the jack - raise as close as possible to normal ride height ○ Tighten to 128 ft/lbs Rear Torque Specs/Notes • Shock upper bolts 46 ft/lb 16mm (swivel extension is helpful) Shock lower bolt 96 ft/lb 15mm bolt with 18mm nut (use a wrench for the nut) If you drop the rear (while jack supported) to remove spring - 105 ft/lbs (18mm nut, 15mm bolt)
so my friends pop is a mechanic. does it matter if the rear are installed upside down lol. he said he went based of how the oem looked. idk it still sits the same as yours but I was just wondering since the lettering are upside down. fronts are same as yours.
Yes it does rub when I have a full car. It doesn’t rub the whole time but whenever I do hit a bump it definitely rubs. I don’t normally have a full car so I don’t mind the occasional rubs. Hope this helps. If you have more questions, you can dm me on Instagram
So question what tire size are you running with those springs I’m on 315 on rear and 275 front was trying to see clearance before I commit or should I run coilovers
Thanks bro and I did not get an alignment after lowering but I would suggest getting it. When I change my wheel setup I did an alignment which was about 2-3 months before I made up my mind to lower my car. So basically if I made up my mind back then I wouldve just waited until after I did everything. So far it’s been good tho
It’s been over a year since the install and I must say they’ve settled a lot. In my opinion it’s lower than the manufacturer say it would. The ride quality is stiffer than the stock springs, so you’ll feel bumps more when driving. I wouldn’t recommend getting them if you normally drive your car with a full car of people.
I used a rubber head hammer, but you have to be VERY careful as it will snap and pop out at you you. I highly recommend putting something to apply pressure underneath the wheel assembly (example: jack) so that it doesn’t fall out or hit you. Check out the video!
@@rtjoe i did i had to unhook just about everything in the rear end to get it to line up only got both the front and back right done i still have to do the back left waiting for this weekend to do it but i did take it on a test drive and the front made alot of clunking noise when i hit bumps i think it may be the shock top nuts on the front not being fully tightened cause i couldnt get the shaft to stop spinning did you have a trick for that i saw you just used a impact on it mine wouldn’t
Yeah the rear is a bit more challenging because of the spacing. And I don’t have any sounds coming from the wheels. If the bolt is spinning, use another tool on the other end to hold it.
@@rtjoe after a week my rear is making some creaking sounds. Sounds like rubber to rubber. Did you have to lubricate the springs for the top and bottom hat
It should be tightened using only hand tools. It should not be as tight as lug nuts. If you want to go the extra mile, you can rent/buy a torque wrench and tighten to the manufacturer exact specifications
You can feel the difference in ride quality when comparing them to stock springs. It’s stiffer but the handling is way better than the stock springs. You’ll feel bumps more bcuz of the stiffness
From personal experience, so far I’ve had no problems and I’ve had these on my car since July of 2020. But if you plan on driving your car filled with passengers and have 315 tires in the rear like me then that can be something to consider.
